WallpaperApril 2023的目錄

A fusing of Parisian elegance with California cool is encapsulated in Givenchy’s new ‘Voyou’ bag, which sees a ladylike V-shaped silhouette melded with tough, biker-inspired hardware and slouchy tumbled leather. It takes its name from a French slang term meaning ‘bad boy’. ‘With the ‘Voyou’, you know at a glance that it’s Parisian, but it’s at home wherever it goes,’ says the maison’s American-born creative director Matthew M Williams, who describes his S/S23 collection for Givenchy as a ‘transatlantic clash’. Arriving in mini, medium and large sizes, alongside a veritable candy shop of colours – from vivid pink and mint green to denim – the ‘Voyou’ is the latest addition to what Williams calls his ‘lexicon’ of Givenchy, a thread connecting past and present in the designer’s contemporary style. givenchy.com…

In 1993, Italian fashion brand Zegna transformed 100 sq km of land surrounding its wool mill in Piedmont’s Biella Alps into the lush Oasi Zegna nature reserve. And following founder Ermenegildo Zegna’s original reforestation manifesto from the 1930s, more than 500,000 trees have been planted on the site, which covers an area 30 times the size of New York’s Central Park. The founder’s dreams of a greener world ignited a legacy of societal and environmental consciousness and protection that is applied to every collection designed and manufactured by Zegna today. Its Oasi Cashmere collection, which take its name from the park, reflects the same harmonious connection between Earth and man with a commitment to making all of the house’s cashmere fully traceable by 2024 – from raw natural fibre, sourced…

Casa Primitiva, as its name suggests, is an unpretentious structure. The one-storey, 120 sq m building has a rectilinear footprint; its brick perimeter walls bear five identical steel trusses that support the gabled roof and divide the space underneath into four bays. The material palette is pared back (off-white mortar for the exterior walls, concrete for the flooring, natural wood for the countertops), and openings are reduced to rudimentary forms. The structure’s simplicity belies bold ambitions and a sophisticated design process. It was commissioned by a pair of brothers, Bosco and Claudio Sodi. Brooklyn-based Bosco (see W*260) is an internationally renowned painter and sculptor, and creator of Casa Wabi – a cultural destination on the coast of Puerto Escondido, Mexico, featuring architecture by the likes of Tadao Ando, Alberto Kalach,…

The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, in the 19th arrondissement, is one of Eva Jospin’s favourite places in Paris. Its landscape had been barren and riddled with holes from centuries of gypsum mining until the mid-19th century, when park designer Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand transformed it into a magnificent garden, with sprawling lawns, an artificial lake, a grotto with a 20m-high waterfall, and a miniature Roman temple perched on its highest point. ‘It’s amazing what we can do to redeem abandoned industrial spaces so they become places to go and walk around and to set your imagination free,’ says Jospin, as we meet for lunch in Paris in December 2022 to discuss her collaboration with champagne house Ruinart. Buttes-Chaumont itself has little to do with Champagne, but the park came to Jospin’s mind…

The frailties of the human condition are a lifelong preoccupation for Finnish sculptor and jewellery designer Björn Weckström. His sculptures, which expose the challenges facing mankind, are epic in scale and cast in an eclectic mix of materials: marble, bronze, glass and resin. The 88-year-old artist draws on both his Nordic heritage and the decades he spent in Italy, as a lecturer at the University of Pisa from 1979, for works that capture his fascination with Greek mythology, imbuing the familiar forms of the gods with an empathetic humanity. While Weckström has always been intrigued by the possibilities offered by materials, he originally manipulated these on a smaller scale, beginning his career as a jewellery designer. ‘I always wanted to be a sculptor, but, the fact is, my family was…

Shanghai-based designer Zhongyu Zhang’s experiments with the qualities of different materials to generate new objects that can be integrated into everyday settings. Graduating in product design from the Royal College of Art in 2018, on her return to China, she worked for several years for local furniture manufacturers before establishing her own research-based practice in 2021. Naming it Studio MMR, which stands for materials, modality and routine, Zhang says, ‘I treat materials as a kind of grammar; they reveal variations in different modalities and daily life.’ Inspired by the book Basic Forms, by Bernd and Hilla Becher, her ‘Slice’ series, which incorporates side tables, seating and shelving, takes the idea of the metal ventilation ducts widely employed in factories and other urban structures and creates tubular furniture pieces made from…

Tucked into a courtyard behind an apartment building in Toulouse, a small house with a yellow floor overflows with photos, religious icons, art books, drawings and sculptures. The last include a larger-than-life statue of a slim nude woman with an exaggerated vulva, her head replaced by a visibly male flying dog. On a recent autumn day, the house’s 96-year-old owner, Odile Mir, greeted visitors wearing a loose shirt over jeans and dangly silver earrings. A cane was the only concession she gave to her age. Mir is a self-taught artist who had a seven-year parenthesis as a self-taught furniture designer. She is best known for her sculptures, which she makes using wire grids covered with plaster, then painted leather or paper. Inspired by mythology, her artwork is both alluring and…

You experience a tremendous sense of dislocation upon entering Ian Chee’s apartment in Singapore’s Tiong Bahru, an area known for its listed art deco buildings. The first impulse is to pause at the door, and then step back outside to check your sense of depth and perception, for it hardly seems possible that the relatively nondescript frontage – a white low-rise apartment block built, like the rest of the neighbourhood, in the mid-1930s by the Singapore Improvement Trust as a test case for public housing – could contain such a vast and, well, completely unexpected interior. This must be what it’s like to step into the Tardis. When Chee was apartment hunting a few years ago, the Architectural Association-trained architect found himself drawn to Tiong Bahru as much for its…

Spin the bottle A scent collaboration tells a tale of two cities Multidisciplinary designer Samuel Ross has joined forces with Acqua di Parma to create 300 bottles of its classic Colonia scent, which has remained unchanged for 100 years. Drawing on his British heritage and the perfume brand’s Italian roots, Ross has given the bottle a contemporary twist, taking inspiration from the architecture of London and Milan, in particular, the work of Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. The limited-edition bottles will be available in three colours: yellow, green and Ross’ signature orange. samuel-ross.com, acquadiparma.com…

The humble pin cushion is behind the latest watch from Chanel, with Arnaud Chastaing, the director of Chanel’s watchmaking studio, taking inspiration from objects whose architecture centres around their function. Chanel watches traditionally take their design cues from the French maison’s world – from winding its distinctive embellished leather handbag chain around the wrist to evoking the form of a No. 5 perfume bottle stopper or imprinting tweed on a dial. With the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles watch, it’s the pin cushion that Gabrielle Chanel often toted on her wrist in her role as seamstress that acts as muse. Cutting a playfully oversized silhouette, the tweed motif version features the pattern of a tweed jacket, trimmed with 92 diamonds, underneath a domed case evoking the shape of a pin cushion. It’s…

Molteni & C makes its outdoor furniture debut this spring with two complementary collections celebrating our connection to nature and a refined approach to the home. Giulia Molteni, Molteni Group’s chief marketing officer, sees this as a natural progression for the brand. ‘Nature is an integral part of our life,’ she says. ‘It’s a connection that aims at rediscovering seasons, colours and the pleasure of the outdoors.’ Overseen by Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen, the collections merge sophisticated contemporary silhouettes with noteworthy older designs, touching upon the design codes that have defined Molteni & C throughout its almost 90-year history. In his six years as creative director of Molteni & C, Van Duysen has combined his minimalist rigour with the company’s Mediterranean roots, creating products and interiors that reflect what…

In 1971, the African American artist Senga Nengudi participated in a group show at the Musée Rath in Geneva, showing, for the first time, a body of work called the Water Compositions. Consisting of heat-sealed plastic filled with water that had been dyed with Easter egg colouring, the forms evoked the softness and sensuality of the body in the manner in which they undulated and responded to touch. They exemplified a series of aesthetic threads that have characterised Nengudi’s practice in the five decades since, with its investment in ritual, the female body, and performance. In her sculptures, tactile elements establish an interface between the viewer and the space, explains Matilde Guidelli-Guidi, the curator of a monographic exhibition exploring Nengudi’s work, which opened in mid-February at the Dia Beacon, a…

When Paris high jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique in 1906, on Place Vendôme, one of its first orders was neither a pearl necklace nor a diamond ring. Rather, it was a jewel designed to adorn the home: a scale model of the New York socialite Eugene Higgins’ Varuna yacht, crafted in gold, silver, jasper, ebony and enamel. What made it particularly unique, however, was its modern functionality – it was fitted with an electric bell pusher to call the butler. By the 1930s, Van Cleef & Arpels’ precious approach to technology elevated women’s wants with the marvellous minaudière, a rare 1935 version of which is photographed here. This tin box-inspired purse was engineered in gold, lacquer and gemstones to contain mirrors, face powders, a cigarette…

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Where do you currently live? I have lived in Offenbach for more than half of my life. It’s the city where I studied product design and established my design studio. In addition to this apartment, my husband and I have a small apartment in Berlin to escape the studio routine from time to time. Can you tell us about your neighbourhood? Offenbach was the German city of leather production. Famous brands including Goldpfeil and Montblanc have manufactured wallets and bags here. Since the decline of the industry, the city has tried to reinvent itself and find a new identity. I find this spirit of optimism very inspiring. How would you describe your home? Our home is always changing. We love to buy crafted objects on our holidays; an old wedding…

Wallpaper* subscribers enjoy exclusive, limited-edition, artist-designed covers To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub23 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€157 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes CREDITS 3o June 2023. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

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Abask abask.com Acerbis Design acerbisdesign.com Afri Modern afrimodern.co.za Air Division airdivision.com Alaïa maison-alaia.com Alias alias.design Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood viviennewestwood.com Ariake ariakecollection.com Armani Casa armani.com Bofred bofred.co.za Boucheron boucheron.com Bulgari bulgari.com Carpenters Workshop Gallery carpentersworkshopgallery.com Carwan Gallery carwangallery.com Cassina cassina.com Castor Fleuriste castor-fleuriste.com CC-Tapis cc-tapis.com Celine by Hedi Slimane celine.com Chanel chanel.com Christian + Jade christianandjade.com Christofle christofle.com Christopher Kane christopherkane.com Collection Particulière collection-particuliere.fr Elie Top elietop.com Estúdio Rain estudiorain.com Falke falke.com Forma Rosa Studio formarosastudio.com Friedman Benda friedmanbenda.com Galerie Kreo galeriekreo.com Georg Jensen georgjensen.com Gidon Bing Ceramics gidonbingceramics.com Ginger Gordon gingergordon.com Givenchy givenchy.com Haider Ackermann + Fila fila.com Hermès hermes.com Holly Hunt hollyhunt.com Ines inesgloves.com Issey Miyake isseymiyake.com Jan Kath jan-kath.com Karakter Copenhagen karakter-copenhagen.com Kelly Wearstler kellywearstler.com Knoll knoll-int.com Ladies & Gentlemen Studio ladiesandgentlemenstudio.com La Manufacture lamanufacture-paris.fr Living…

#141 Since emerging in the 1980s, South Korean artist Lee Bul has captivated viewers with futuristic installations and performances that probe patriarchal structures and the relationship between humans and machines. This recipe, a cold noodle dish originating from North Korea, is her favourite for a hot summer day. ‘It’s often associated with longevity and good health,’ says Lee. ‘I find it sculptural, as it’s served in a metal bowl and every ingredient can be discerned. It’s not until they all come together that we really perceive all these rich flavours and centuries of tradition.’ lehmannmaupin.com. For Lee’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com For stockists, see page 193…