WallpaperSeptember 2020的目錄

LIZ JOHNSON ARTUR Photographer ‘David Adjaye was my first Zoom portrait,’ says Johnson Artur, who also shot Samuel Ross, founder of fashion label A-Cold-Wall*, in person. ‘It felt a bit like shooting the unknown,’ she says of the remote job. ‘I tried to apply the same feeling to my encounter with Samuel.’ See the portraits on page 078, where Adjaye and Ross talk creative futures. Known for documenting the lives of people of African descent, Johnson Artur is currently making a book about PDA. CLARE STRAND Artist ‘The project is an effort to go beyond the traditional fashion page and take it to a third dimension,’ says the British conceptual artist of her 22-page story for us (page 124). Casting geometry nets over George Harvey’s black and white photographs of…

It’s been a long six months of tracksuit bottoms, flannel shirts and sweats. September signals an annual ‘back to school’ snap of the synapses and this year is no different. Those hankering for something with a little more bite will enjoy the restrained tension that comes with autumn’s leather offering. At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh was captivated by rapidly evolving workwear. His leather bomber-blazer hybrid, which gives the clever illusion of layering, will set pulses racing. When the weather closes in, you will be grateful for Prada’s durable, pull-on leather boots with a round-square toe and signature heavy sole. Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, too, offer robust pairs. Elsewhere, fetishist undercurrents tantalise in Dolce & Gabbana’s head-to-toe leather look and Dunhill’s new ‘Lock Bag’ inspired by the brand’s signature Rollagas lighters…

Titanium, forged in the burning core of supernovas, is a weapons-grade material. Its storied strength and super lightweightedness informs Lindberg’s 9600 series of spectacle frames. The brand’s relationship with titanium dates back to its origin in the 1980s. Frustrated by the lack of light, strong, well-designed glasses, founder Poul-Jørn Lindberg made his own, teaming up with architect Hans Dissing, an Arne Jacobsen acolyte and a designer of bridges, including the Great Belt Fixed Link, between the Danish islands of Zealand and Funen. Dissing helped Lindberg create minimal, flexible, durable, hypoallergenic, noncorrosive spectacle frames inspired by geometric figures and architectural lines. The new ‘Strip Titanium’ 9624 and 9625 models are slimmer and more feminine, adding widened temple sections and a thin-lined front. With temple ends multi-adjustable for a perfect fit, each…

Many of us reserve a special affection for pies – the classic shape, so pleasingly self-contained, promises a hearty dinner. A beautiful pie speaks also of occasion and opulence, and of the skill of its maker. Hailed ‘The King of Pies’, Calum Franklin creates edible works of art from London’s Holborn Dining Room, which includes a retail space, The Pie Room. He drew up the designs for the space, all marble, brass and dark wood, and takes inspiration for his pie designs from London architecture, carved doorways, church windows and all. His pies’ visual splendour is matched by their exquisite taste. Now his new book explains his recipes and techniques for melting pastry and perfect latticework. Keeping us going till then, made by Franklin just for Wallpaper*, is this Coronation…

Joyful new jewellery is part of an A/W20 collection at Dior Men that salutes the late stylist and accessories designer Judy Blame, who passed away two years ago. ‘It was important to pay respect to someone who inspired me,’ says Kim Jones, Dior Men’s artistic director. Blame’s work referenced punk, new romantic and rave culture, creating an art wholly his own. ‘What I admire most is that he could make something beautiful out of absolutely anything. We’ve replicated a lot of his work and Dior-ised it,’ continues Jones. Blame’s fascination with the quotidian is translated into bold jewellery pieces that disregard standard proportions. Safety pins, a mainstay of his style, are recast in rhodium-finish brass and piled haphazardly onto rings; juxtaposed against tightly knit chains, the sharp geometric outlines emphasise…

Even mid-interview, Matthew ‘Mateo’ Harris is in designing mode. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he has experienced an uptick in sales, a testament to the enduring quality of his designs. ‘I am making a piece as we speak,’ he laughs on the phone from Los Angeles, where he is enjoying his last week on the West Coast before decamping to Houston, Texas, where he has just bought a home. Since establishing his brand in 2009, Harris has become an exciting name in jewellery – eschewing trends and bringing a touch of modernity to more classic jewellery pieces, with a bespoke service to match. ‘I want my clients to be a part of the Mateo family, I want to know how they are doing, how they are enjoying their pieces from me.’…

Model: Jacquetta Wheeler at Viva London. Make-up: Emma White Turle at The Wall Group using Chanel. Casting: David Steven Wilton. Photography assistant: Andrew Goss Imagine a vast sheet of paper on which straight Lines, Triangles, Squares, Pentagons, Hexagons, and other figures, instead of remaining fixed in their places, move freely about, on or in the surface,’ posits A Square, the narrator of Edwin Abbott Abbott’s Flatland: A Romance of Many Dimensions. Published in 1884, the Victorian satirical novella proposed a segregated society of geometric figures, spanning multiple dimensions. It is this perspective-bending approach that Brighton-based artist Clare Strand has brought to these very pages. Strand devised a special series of graphic interventions based on Abbott’s novella for this fashion story – photographed by George Harvey and styled by Wallpaper* fashion…

From underwater cactus sculptures and dazzling Op Art interventions, to a forest of carved reliquaries, and a functional fairground installed in Basel’s Messeplatz: Claudia Comte’s output is varied, memorable, and always characterised by a sense of humour. The same goes for her ‘Eggplant Baby’, a dish she recently used to kick-start the birth of her son, Kai Nikolai. The recipe originates from Scalini’s, an Italian restaurant in Georgia, US, and is said to have induced labour for more than 300 expectant mothers. As Comte recalls, ‘My partner, Samuel Leuenberger, prepared the meal for me, and remarkably within a few hours I was in labour!’  claudiacomte.ch; for Comte’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com…

We are living and working in a world that has digitally accelerated – and it is this heightened sense of the virtual, combined with a relative withdrawal from the external world, that has emphasised our engagement with our own physical products, spaces and environments. And our two covers have fully embraced this. For her newsstand cover and 22-page feature, conceptual artist Clare Strand was inspired by Edwin Abbott Abbott’s Flatland: A Romance of Many Dimensions to create a series of graphic interventions on George Harvey’s black-and-white fashion photography. She was drawn to the idea of readers engaging and interacting with the images and even creating their own artworks. Much like the protagonist of Flatland, we’re being challenged by Strand to seek a new perspective, cutting and folding to create three-dimensional…

Bringing the fresh scents of the outdoors in, Loewe’s new line of home fragrances is inspired by the vegetable garden at creative director Jonathan Anderson’s London home. The collection features candles, rattan diffusers, soaps and room sprays in 11 plant-inspired scents, including tomato leaves, cypress balls, pea, coriander, and cannabis. Since taking the helm of the Spanish house in 2013, Anderson has championed modern craft, and this appreciation extends to the presentation of the new line. The home fragrances are housed in handcrafted ceramic containers that evoke the elegant simplicity of Ancient Greek drinking vessels, and come in a variety of colours from striking black to powder pink. The packaging, an artwork in itself, features bold still-life photographs of plants from Franco-Swiss photographer Erwan Frotin. Pictured are wax candleholder, £68;…

Few brands can lay claim to having a true icon in their midst. But the Hermès silk scarf has effortlessly transcended trends, retained cult status and never gone out of fashion. Now, Hermès’ artistic director of women’s ready-to-wear, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, has masterfully integrated the brand’s signature item into this sweater, with a lightweight gauge and an elegant drop shoulder. What’s more, you can switch out the scarf for a necklace of your own. Satiating our desire for easy-to-wear, stay-at-home dressing, this beautifully understated piece is a worthy investment. Hermès introduced its silk scarf in 1937, exactly 100 years after the company was founded. Each one is still produced in Lyon in France, with no shortcuts taken to meet unfaltering demand – they are silk-screen printed by hand, using on average…

Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle gets ready for bed with the latest fragrance offering from the French fashion house, Coco Mademoiselle L’Eau Privée. Almost 20 years since the creation of the original perfume, L’Eau Privée offers a warmer, subtler interpretation, particularly formulated for night-time wear. Always one to respect its heritage, Chanel has ensured that the new scent retains some hallmarks of its forebear, including the unique distillation of patchouli that was pioneered with Coco Mademoiselle and has since become a mainstay in the perfume industry. For L’Eau Privée, the vibrant woody notes of the original are toned down in favour of the subtle sweetness of mandarin, delicate musks, and soft florals such as rose and jasmine. The result is, in the words of Chanel perfumer Olivier Polge, ‘a soft and hazy…

The story of Cobra Studios begins with its founders, Kenny Decommer and Hugues Delaunay, in their need for a new dining table for their apartment. Based in Brussels and with backgrounds in architecture and fashion respectively, the pair designed and made furniture for themselves, before launching their studio and debut collection this year. While working at architecture practice Explorations Architecture, Decommer had collaborated with Dominique Perrault on new furniture for Paris’ Bibliothèque Nationale, sparking his interest in design. Delaunay studied fine art and developed his scenographic approach working as a visual merchandiser for Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith; he currently divides his time between Paris and Brussels, working for Chloé. ‘I am more technical, Hugues is more conceptual and colour-minded. ‘We complement each other,’ says Decommer. ‘We like geometry and…

The slopes of Los Angeles’ hilly suburbs are home of some of the world’s finest modernist residences – think Pierre Koenig’s Case Study House No 22, and John Lautner’s Chemosphere House. This is what a couple – an interior designer and an entrepreneur – had in mind when they began hunting for a family home. Their search led them to an unlikely plot in the Hollywood Hills, ragged, empty and neighbouring a nature reserve. The steep slope, while offering striking views, was almost unbuildable. Called upon to help, architect Douglas Burnham, principal of Berkeley-based Envelope Architecture + Design, was unfazed. The clients snapped up the plot and with it the chance to build from scratch in the Hills, to create a contemporary answer to those modernist classics. The architects made…

The pandemic may have put paid to physical fashion shows, but July saw an outpouring of creativity and ingenuity as designers and brands turned to other channels to present their S/S21 menswear and haute couture collections. The challenge to create designs and figure out new methods of showcasing them also occurred during lockdown, with teams collaborating remotely via Zoom and on socially distanced shoots. The big democratising upside of digital fashion weeks that started with Shanghai in March is that everyone worldwide has a front-row view. Out of this chaos and seemingly impossible circumstances, fashion has been shot into digital space and it is proving a fascinating journey. The shows did go on, with designs featured on avatars (Ralph & Russo, August Getty Atelier), in 3D animations (Botter, Louis Vuitton)…

Tina Arena said it first. I’m in chains. Perhaps it’s the new challenges of restricted movement, or an eagerness to break free of domestic monotony; chains are chiming with the times. Paul Andrew, confidently proving his might as the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, delivers an exquisite column dress crafted from fluid strands of flat gold chains, with loose ends that dance around the legs. It recalls the drapery of the dresses of Greek goddesses that he pinned to his mood board, and also nods to the exuberance of the Roaring Twenties. At Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee wove chains into the necklines of knitted sweater dresses, while at Boss, buttons were replaced with chain fastenings. Accessories, too, are linking up. JW Anderson launches its ‘Lid Chain Bag’ this autumn. Playing…

As life appears to change more rapidly than ever, so increases the desire to capture meaningful moments as they happen. Moreover, carrying a proper camera implies the possibility of putting down our smartphones: going offline, savouring the view, documenting it. Perhaps with that in mind, Ermenegildo Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori channelled his hallmark precision into a new accessory. This refined camera case comes in understated chestnut and black leather versions, finished with top stitching and subtly embossed with an archival example of the brand’s logo. You can choose from a holster style or a classic over-the-shoulder model. What to carry in it? A Leica Q2, of course. It’s the latest evolution of the German manufacturer’s most straightforward contemporary camera – a fixed lens, full-frame pocketable shooter that continues its…

Rich in spiritual references and supposedly endowed with health benefits, crystals have long held the human race bewitched. Hedi Slimane has fallen under their spell for the Les Cristaux Celine collection, intertwining jewels in historical references. The crystals, beautiful in their raw geometry, teeter on circles of gold-finished brass. On a cuff, a crystal of rutilated quartz is held suspended, seemingly untethered. On a ring, a sheaf of pyrite – more colloquially known as fool’s gold and which once enthralled the Incas with its alluring glow – is haphazardly placed, cutting a striking architectural silhouette. In a necklace of star mica, the honey-hued stone, floating in its circle of brass, makes for a tantalising talisman. celine.com…

Given the recent swell of interest in home gardening, the arrival of Snøhetta’s plant accessories for Georg Jensen could not be timelier. Titled ‘Terra’, the nine-piece collection brings together the Danish brand’s characteristic mirror-polished stainless steel with terracotta: ‘We’re literally introducing dirt into a polished and shiny world, bringing to the table something textural and imperfect, just like the plants themselves,’ says Snøhetta’s director of product design, Marius Myking. The material combination also harks back to Georg Jensen’s origins (its eponymous founder was a ceramicist before launching the company in 1904). The planters, which combine streamlined silhouettes with cylindrical saucers, invert the form of typical plant pots. Wider at the base than at the rim, they ‘give the plant the opportunity to take root the same way it does in…

For all its pros (democratic show schedule) and cons (venues spread all over Manhattan and Brooklyn, made worse by bad traffic), New York Fashion Week still pulls out enough surprises to thrill each season. For A/W20, it owed its most memorable moments to emerging designers who have taken almost everything into their own hands, be it eschewing the official Spring Studios venue or rethinking the conventional runway experience. This show of rebellion is evidenced in a new wave of glamour, extravagance and social consciousness that has come to distinguish the most exciting labels. Experimental, unapologetic, and certainly not for the introverted, here are the rising stars we should all know better. CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS Much has been made of Christopher John Rogers’ ascent. Upon graduating from Savannah…

It’s exactly two decades since Giorgio Armani launched his Armani Casa label, bringing his geometric lines and striking proportions into the realm of interiors. In addition to a now extensive range of furniture, Armani Casa has collaborated with industry-leading partners including Dada (part of the Molteni Group) on kitchens, Roca on bathroom fixtures, Rubelli on textiles, and Jannelli & Volpi on wall coverings. It also has its own interior design studio, responsible for Armani-branded hotels and luxury residences. Mr Armani is rightfully proud of how far his design label has come. ‘I successfully and independently expanded into sectors beyond fashion to offer my all-embracing philosophy of lifestyle. I can say this is an enormous achievement,’ he says. Still, mindful of the current climate, he has eschewed the usual anniversary fanfare,…

At the beginning of 2020, Mercedes-Benz offered Wallpaper* a preview of a new collaborative art project it was working on, due for launch later this year. The raw material was its four-decade-old, classic SUV series the G-Class, or G-Wagen, as it is also known. The collaborators were Gorden Wagener, the brand’s chief design officer, and Virgil Abloh, the designer, architect, entrepreneur, DJ, artist, artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear and CEO of his own fashion label, Off-White. This collaboration is quite a coup for the car maker. The resulting piece, to be unveiled this autumn, is called Project Geländewagen (Geländewagen is German for ‘terrain vehicle’, from which the G-Wagen gets its name). Abloh has become one of the world’s hottest designers in recent years. Originally trained as an engineer and…

1017 Alyx 9SM alyxstudio.com A Akris Tel: 44.20 7758 8060 (UK) akris.com Alberta Ferretti Tel: 44.20 7235 2349 (UK) albertaferretti.com Alighieri Tel: 44.20 8065 0302 (UK) alighieri.co.uk Armani Casa armani.com/casa Azucena, from B&B Italia bebitalia.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Bally bally.com Béton Brut betonbrut.co.uk Boss Tel: 44.20 7734 7919 (UK) hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta Tel: 44.20 7629 5598 (UK) bottegaveneta.com C Canali canali.com Canificio canificio.com CC-Tapis cc-tapis.com Celine celine.com Chanel Tel: 44.20 7493 5040 (UK) chanel.com Chillida Leku museochillidaleku.com Colville colvilleofficial.com Cristiano Burani cristianoburani.it D David James davidjames.dj Dior Tel: 44.20 7355 5930 (UK) dior.com Dolce & Gabbana Tel: 44.20 7659 9000 (UK) dolcegabbana.it Dunhill dunhill.com E Eduardo Chillida maeght.com Ermenegildo Zegna XXX zegna.com F Fendi Tel: 44.20 7927 4172 (UK) fendi.com G Giobagnara giobagnara.com Giorgio Armani Tel: 44.20 7235 6232 (UK)…

Design Emergency takes the Wallpaper* reins for a 27-page investigation into design’s response to Covid-19. Paola Antonelli and Alice Rawsthorn on the ingenuity and generosity of designers and makers worldwide, working overtime to protect us from the pandemic and prepare for the radical changes it will introduce to our lives. Plus, Hannah Starkey’s London in lockdown; Bahamian artist Tavares Strachan; Italian architect Paolo Portoghesi; and designing from a distance with American Hardwood. ON SALE 17 SEPTEMBER…