WallpaperDecember 2016的目錄

JOHN BALDESSARI artist At 85, John Baldessari has well and truly earned his place in the pantheon of greats. By turns provocative and singularly moving, his works – which incorporate borrowed images, music, videography and calligraphy – have influenced successive generations of artists, including, with full disclosure, us at Wallpaper*. But it was his challenging, yet charmingly off-beat, volume, Yours in Food, John Baldessari, that led us to ask him to create a dish for Artist’s Palate (page 186). DREW VICKERS Photographer Vickers was already familiar with American architect Andrew Geller’s work when he started scouting for locations for our fashion story (page 174), but he had never seen the Double Diamond house in The Hamptons. ‘We were looking for something midcentury modern that was also a bit more rustic.…

When it came to launching her first menswear collection, Stella McCartney went all in. Rather than design a unisex extension or a concise capsule, the British designer has invested in 37 full looks, including accessories, which will drop into department stores and boutiques globally this November. It’s almost like the line always existed, which was exactly the plan. ‘I wanted to create a collection in which every type of man can come and find something,’ McCartney explains of the S/S17 debut. ‘The starting point is men that I find incredibly inspiring, and the kind of men that I want to help dress. That’s the same thing I try to do with the womenswear,’ she adds. ‘I make women feel like they can be fashionable, and yet themselves. And I…

Thomas DemanD Artist, photogrApher, model citizen Wallpaper* subscriber since 1996 Demand takes delivery of another issue of Wallpaper* outside his home and studio in LA, photographed by Spencer Lowell Share a picture of your Wallpaper* collection using #subscribersince and tagging @wallpapermag Subscribe today at wallpaper.com/dec16 and receive subscriber-only, limited-edition, artist-designed covers; delivery to your door and the Wallpaper* digital edition at no extra cost. twelve issues for £65. offer closes 31 december 2016. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms.…

Come the winter chill, we’re down with the unrivalled toastiness of the insulated feather-filled jacket. Moncler is, of course, synonymous with more sophisticated variants of the form and it continues to update its classic Grenoble jacket, reducing the puff for a lighter feel and slimmer silhouette without sacrificing warmth. Always at the cutting edge of fabric innovation, Stone Island’s ultralight leather jacket packs its finest down into a nylon technical mesh, while all seams are heat-sealed. Its down-filled David-TC parka, meanwhile, is garment dyed at 130ºC to offer what Stone Island calls a ‘unique tactile experience’. Waterproofing down jackets is something of a trick, but Parajumpers’ Musher parka, built in a matte-finish, laminated nylon, micro-ottoman fabric, can take a 10,000mm deluge before its defences are breached. Meanwhile, the water-repellent waxed…

AGENDA Previously unseen drawings and notebooks belonging to Zaha Hadid (1950-2016) go on display next month at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery in London, giving an intimate insight into the formative years of the visionary architect and celebrating her enduring spirit for experimentation. Her designs for the Guggenheim’s 1992 exhibition ‘The Russian and Soviet Avant-Garde’ already show a masterful grip on space and shape, seen in the dynamic slithers of crimson and scatterings of sculpted blocks spiralling across the canvas. And striking paintings for a project entitled ‘Visions for Madrid’ represent her attempt to arrest the city’s collapse into formlessness and organise the ’anarchic spread of development’. The Serpentine Sackler Gallery, renovated and extended by Hadid’s practice in 2013, is a fitting location for this homage, which was curated in collaboration…

HARD LINES Contemporary jewellery’s craft, creativity and killer curves The recent tendency in fine jewellery design has been towards linear minimalism and spare, precious metals. But as the high street has cottoned on, so has the desire for something richer. It’s fitting, then, that the work of the woman who did much to define the opulent jewellery aesthetic of the 1980s is back in the frame. Marina Bulgari, a scion of the eponymous Roman jewellery house and its one-time co-chief executive, left the family business in 1973 and set up Marina B in 1978. Drawing on her own glittering social network, Marina exhibited in exclusive hotels, from Gstaad to Monte Carlo, growing her elite but global fan base. She sold her business in 1999 and it changed hands a couple…

Oe sunny summer’s day three years ago, a small delegation of people stepped out of a run-down military Jeep onto an overgrown field on the Bungenäs peninsula on the Swedish island of Gotland, taking the concept of purchasing property sight unseen to a whole new level. There, equipped with a torn, faded piece of paper – a formerly classified architectural plan of the subterranean bunker that lay underneath their feet – architect Erik Gardell shared his vision for the plot of land. ‘I was completely caught off guard when the potential contractor, whom we had just met the day before, said “Let’s just do it!”’ says Gardell. ‘There really was nothing there – not even a trace of the bunker. But the client’s deep interest in the area prompted him…

Mayan gold CHABLÉ SPA & RESORT, YUCATÁN Mexico’s traditional healing therapies have only had marginal appeal to the wellbeing cognoscenti, but the newly opened Chablé is set to change all that. Set in 750 acres of wild forest in the Yucatán Peninsula, the 40-villa spa resort – named after a herb used by the ancient Mayans in their therapies – is centred around a cenote, or sacred natural cave formation. The mood is of an otherworldly Shangri-la of green thickets and natural textures. Using the weathered 19th-century walls of the original hacienda as a framework, architect Jorge Borja and designer Paulina Moran have added millennial comforts, such as outdoor showers, glass-encased swimming pools and large outdoor living rooms. The fabulous spa treatments include a vibrational massage based on percussion and…

Roast pork with crackling Serves 6 1 pork loin joint with skin on, weighing approx 2kg 1 white onion, peeled 2 bay leaves, plus more to garnish 1½ tbs coarse sea salt Preheat the oven to 240°C. Score the pork skin into a diamond pattern using the tip of a very sharp knife or scalpel, cutting about halfway through the fat layer. Place the joint, skin-side up, in a colander and pour a kettleful of boiling water over it. Pat the joint dry. Slice the onion into four horizontal slices and place them close together in a roasting tin. Put the bay leaves on top and place the pork joint, skin-side up, on top of the onion and bay leaves. Sprinkle the salt over the pork, rubbing it well into…

Speakers (come with the ‘Bild 9’ TV, see later credit). ‘IC’ light, £342, by Michael Anastassiades, for Flos. ‘Dinn’ console, £1,295, by Jader Almeida, for Sollos, from The Conran Shop. ‘Alta’ mirror, £1,289, by Kelly Wearstler, from Harrods. ‘AT-LP5’ turntable, £349, by Audio-Technica. ‘Panna Cotta’ table, £740, by Ron Gilad, for Molteni & C. ‘BeoSound 1’ wireless speaker, £995, by Bang & Olufsen. ‘Bild 9’ TV, price on request, by Bodo Sperlein, for Loewe. ‘Farrah Grey’ rug, £5,465, by Nicole Fuller, for The Rug Company. ‘Ash Aalborg’ flooring, part of the Sand Collection, £74 per sq m, by Kährs…

Credits from page 163 Top shelf, teapot, £77, by Hasami Porcelain, from Goodhood. ‘Olio’ teapot, £55, by Barber & Osgerby, for Royal Doulton. ‘Salam’ zinc teapot, €85, by Degrenne. ‘9091’ kettle, £180, by Richard Sapper, for Alessi. Second shelf, ‘9093’ kettle, £100, by Michael Graves, for Alessi. ‘Helena’ teapot, £145, by Helena Rohner, for Georg Jensen. ‘Kettle’ teapot, £55, by Norm Architects, for Menu. ’Tea with Georg’ teapot, £120, by Scholten & Baijings, for Georg Jensen. Third shelf, ‘Cylinda-line’ teapot, £219, by Arne Jacobsen, for Stelton, from Skandium. Teapot, £438, by Christiane Perrochon, from Willer. ‘Cha’ kettle/teapot, £109, by Naoto Fukasawa, for Alessi. ‘Oiva’ teapot, $89, by Sami Ruotsalainen, for Marimekko. Bottom, ‘Teema’ teapot, £44, by Kaj Franck, for Iittala; ‘Theo’ teapot, £80, by Francis Cayouette, for Stelton, both from…

John Baldessari has long incorporated elements of consumption into his work. Sometimes this has manifested itself in a figurative sense, such as his early 1967 piece A Two-Dimensional Surface Without Any Articulation Is A Dead Experience, in which he allowed his words to be painted by signpainters. Sometimes the artist has approached the idea in a literal way – perhaps best exemplified by his Cremation Project, in which he burnt all his paintings from 1953 to 1966 and baked the ashes into cookies, which were displayed with a recipe. This provocative display of metarealistic gastronomy has been toned down in Baldessari’s contribution to the Wallpaper* dining digest. His recipe is a homey amalgam of familiar tastes and textures, proving once again that, even at 85, Baldessari still has a few…

Currently blitzing the baking industry is a maximalist cakedecorating style born in Australia. Sydney-based Katherine Sabbath and fellow antipodean bakers Don’t Tell Charles and Unbirthday Bakery are among those pushing cake topping boundaries, while social media has taken the trend to bakers and confectioners around the world – in London, Molly Bakes has applied the concept to milkshakes (‘freakshakes’) as well as cakes, while young independents, such as the Brighton-based Bunston Bakes, are celebrating the freshness of the new decorating style. Sometimes toppings involve recognisable sugary treats, such as KitKat bars or Kinder eggs, as well as donuts, macaroons, marshmallows, honeycomb, pretzels or brownies; while sometimes it’s carefully constructed chocolate shards, in extravagant colours or textures, used to form entire structures on top of the cakes. It’s the icing on…

Christian Louboutin, the genius behind the red-soled staple of shoe-loving fashionistas, is a pioneer of creative collaborations. Earlier this year he turned to Thomas Heatherwick to design the twisted bottles of his new fragrance range (see W*211), and he enjoys an ongoing meeting of minds with David Lynch, with whom he created a range of fetishistic shoes. Lynch’s TV series Twin Peaks served as the inspiration behind Shoe Peaks, his latest bag design. Made from the last of So Kate, Louboutin’s stilettoes that launched a thousand copies, the sculptural clutch is a surreal nod to its design derivation. Created with impeccable attention to detail, the aluminium bag comes in either a high gloss black lacquer or gold metallic finish. Shoe Peaks bag, £2,395, by Christian Louboutin, christianlouboutin.com BREAKFAST BAR Blame…

A world of oenophile wonders and spirit-raising accoutrements Orange wine is emerging as a bold alternative to red, white and rosé. Using a centuries-old technique, the skins of white grapes are left on for months during maturation, giving the wine an intense texture and taste, as well as its unique shade. Austrian winery Weingut Maria & Sepp Muster’s 2013 Erde is one of the finest of the new breed. The biodynamic wine is made from a mix of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and presented in a clay bottle (which helps the ageing process) with an abstract label by Austrian artist Beppo Pliem. weingutmuster.com KINDRED SPIRITS Tokyo Whisky Library Taking inspiration from the Multnomah Whiskey Library in Portland, Oregon, Tokyo now has its own athenaeum of fine distilled spirits. With more…

Seiko Created in 1960, the Grand Seiko mechanical strand continues its diverse design trajectory with an emphasis on tech-smart materials and movement engineering. Here, the fusion of high-intensity titanium and black zirconia ceramic renders the 46.4mm case of the Grand Seiko Black Ceramic 25 per cent lighter than steel. Grand Seiko Black Ceramic Limited Edition, £10,000, grand-seiko.com Tudor The Nasa-derived PVD coating that injects the Black Bay Dark with a particularly utilitarian feel is a sharp contrast to Tudor’s vintage-led design character. The rich, satiny finish is another draw, while the choice of a braceletor pilot-style leather strap offers a shift in tone. Black Bay Dark, £3,050, by Tudor, tudorwatch.com Bell & Ross The stress-resistant, lightweight properties of forged carbon are favoured by the aeronautics industry. Now, aviation watch specialist…

Fashion For stockists, see page 184 Hair: Roberto Di Cuia at L’Atelier NYC Make-up: Allie Smith at Sarah Laird & Good Company Model: Remy Holwick at Ford Models Production: Wanted Media Location: the Double Diamond house, Westhampton Beach, originally designed in 1959 by Andrew Geller…