WallpaperMarch 2016的目錄

KARL LAGERFELD Fashion designer This month’s recipe (page 218) is a suitably trim and healthy offering from one of the few fashion industry faces likely to be recognised by the man in the street. Lagerfeld is a master of reinvention, a global celebrity still at the very top of his field. A constant taste for the next challenge, whether in film-making, ready-to-wear or even glassware design, repeatedly pays dividends, all of it underscored by his ultramodern, highly structured style. MICHAEL HAUPTMAN Photographer Iowa-born photographer Hauptman shot this month’s men’s tailoring story (page 202). He first took up photography when his grandparents gave him a camera as a child, and after graduating, he assisted polished perfectionist Richard Burbridge before setting up on his own. He is known for his personal, dreamlike…

Business finance specialist Lawrence Salem and project manager Gabriel Chipperfield had been looking for some time for the perfect project to kickstart their joint property venture when they came across a Grade II-listed house on Eccleston Street in Belgravia, London. ‘It was a mess, so the project was primarily about straightening everything out, restoring the original 1850s building, as well as adding several modern extensions to the top, bottom, and back of the house,’ recalls Chipperfield, who developed and designed the house, with Salem, ‘under the watchful eye’ of his father, David Chipperfield. The pair focused on opening up the old house, adding a new basement, rear facade and steelwork ‘to frame everything and support the new top floor and those marble bathtubs’ – and the results prove that the…

Come spring, myriad houses, from Sonia Rykiel to Versace, will be offering you the cold shoulder. ‘Off-the-shoulder is about covering something yet revealing something else as hemlines go down,’ says Sarah Rutson, Net-a-Porter’s VP of global buying, on the S/S16 trend that began in New York, courtesy of Proenza Schouler’s louche layers, before finding a more bohemian sensibility in Paris with the return of the halterneck at Chloé. Whether entirely strapless at Boss or worn as peekaboo splices at Erdem and Preen, the bare shoulder is this season’s erogenous zone and not just reserved for island escapades. OFF THE SHOULDER…

For her BA industrial design project, Sophia Fanid of the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Basel, set out to rethink objects and tools that have fallen out of functional favour. After sifting through 26 outmoded relics, ranging from salad spinners to boot jacks, Fanid settled on sharpening up the act of the safety razor and, as a sustainability side-benefit, reducing the mountains of disposed disposable razor blades and razors. Fanid devised a simple sharpener for a removable razor head, capable of returning a blade edge to its bristle-bashing best with 15-20 turns of its big rotary knob. This process, which Fanid hopes users will find a manual pleasure rather than a chore, is only required about every three to four weeks. And, with care and diligence, a single…

Tsatsas was founded by Esther Schulze-Tsatsas and Dimitrios Tsatsas in Frankfurt in 2012, though its story began nearly 30 years ago in the leather workshop of Dimitrios’ father in nearby Offenbach. ‘I always liked to be in my father’s workshop’, recalls Dimitrios. ‘He would draw a butterfly on a piece of wood, but instead of pencils he would give us pieces of leather to fill the spaces. His approach to teaching was always playful.’ Dimitrios had no doubt that he would follow in his father’s footsteps, but Tsatsas senior asked his son to go and see the world before committing to leatherwork. Dimitrios graduated in industrial design, then joined a creative agency, where he met the architect Esther Schulze, now his wife and business partner. After a decade working in…

After accessory-design stints at Emanuel Ungaro, Paco Rabanne and Balenciaga, Charlotte Chesnais’ fashion credentials are undoubted. That she doesn’t allow them to eclipse her fine-art instinct makes hers the standout name in the new wave of fine jewellers. As if gently twisted out of a never-ending coil of metal, her rings and earrings curve and swoop around the body. Anthony Caro is an inspiration and it shows. It’s the tubular, somewhat soft approach to metal that adds a particularly sensuous and sculptural character to her jewellery.…

Shop now at store.wallpaper.com Our new favourite apartment in Rome doesn’t belong to the kind of pedigreed aristocrat that typically holds the keys to high-end real estate in this ancient city. Instead, it belongs to Fendi. Designed by Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran, of Dimore Studio, the apartment unfolds on the second floor of Palazzo Fendi, a 17th-century pile located on Largo Carlo Goldoni in the heart of Rome, just down the street from the Spanish Steps. Previously a ho-hum Fendi store and anonymous office space, it has been ambitiously reconceived and refurbished as a fivestorey cultural, retail, hospitality and entertaining complex for the brand and its clients. Following the opening of Fendi’s new headquarters in the refurbished fascist-era Palazzo della Civiltà in Rome’s outer EUR district (see W*201), Palazzo…

Newsstand cover Photography: Brigitte Niedermair Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure Neckpiece, price on request, by Junya Watanabe. Bushcow (Mangam) helmet mask, by the Mama people (Nigeria), at Galerie Flak See page 190 for more Wallpaper* is printed on UPM Star, upm.com ‘87 And Cry 1917 1984 1984/Dodo 5:15 The Angels Have Gone A Better Future A Big Hurt A Foggy Day In London Town A New Career In A New Town A Small Plot Of Land Abdulmajid Absolute Beginners Across The Universe Afraid African Night Flight After All After Today Al Alba Alabama Song Aladdin Sane Algeria Touchshriek All Saints All The Madmen All The Young Dudes Almost Grown Always Crashing In The Same Car Amazing Amlapura Amsterdam An Occasional Dream And I Say To Myself Andy Warhol Anyway, Anyhow, Anywhere Art…

Just as the elegantly redefined university satchel has been seen out and about after dark, so the scrubbed-up school backpack has also recently been spotted glamming it up at parties. Piquadro cemented its backpack’s sartorial standing by cutting it in a textured mock-croc, while new luxury label Hillier Bartley’s mini satchel, with its across-the-body strap and gleaming hardware, has dropped class to create a new cocktail archetype. Hillier Bartley was formed last year by Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley following the closure of Marc by Marc Jacobs, where the duo were creative directors. ‘I have a particular passion for small bags,’ says Hillier. ‘Beautiful miniature versions that almost feel like an object because of the size, with no less craft or details applied because of the scale.’ Naturally, all party…

Back in the 1950s, high fidelity was symbolised by sleek teak and mahogany cabinets that aped the carefully crafted curves of the era’s best furniture pieces. Audio design died a little when we switched to identikit boxes of matt black and chrome, and streaming sound reduced hi-fi to little more than a standalone speaker. Belgian music agency Digizik is seeking to reverse this with its new Søbel brand. Conjured up after a decade of observing online and offline music trends, Søbel blends retro-nostalgia with 21st century streaming sound, splicing vintage pieces with modern technology. Its debut product, the ‘Ella’ cabinet, showcases its approach, taking a classic Grundig Stereo Console cabinet and transforming it into a hub containing NAD and B&W components and docking facilities for every conceivable device. sobel-hifi.com…

The S/S16 season saw a deck of familiar faces shuffled and charged with shaking up established houses. Peter Dundas circled back to Roberto Cavalli as creative director of the Florentine maison, having cut his teeth there in the early Noughties. Two dynamic duos also made headlines in New York and Paris with their reboots of iconic brands DKNY and Courrèges. In the Big Apple, Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne opened a new chapter for DKNY following Donna Karan’s departure, while over in the French capital, Coperni Femme’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant took the top spot at Courrèges. PETER DUNDAS ROBERTO CAVALLI If there’s anyone in possession of the animal instinct and jet-setting panache to whip Roberto Cavalli into a full-service ready-to-wear brand, it’s Peter Dundas, the former…

AMONG BODINO’S WORKS INSPIRED BY THE MUSEUM FOR HIS RECENT SHOW THERE: A multitasking Italian, Giampiero Bodino has a broad creative bandwidth, taking in architecture as well as the design of cars, watches and jewellery. Art director of the Richemont group since 2002, Bodino’s input is now evident in luxury pens at Montblanc, dazzling diamonds at Cartier and watches at Jaeger-LeCoultre. And in 2013, he created his own eponymous line of high jewellery – wildly expensive and extraordinarily crafted creations – that he sells from a beautifully appointed private villa in Milan. The Turin-born designer’s first love, though, is art. ‘I’ve been drawing and painting my whole life,’ says Bodino, whose artworks first appeared in a group show (‘La ragione trasparente’) in Milan in 1997; solo shows followed in 2002…

2 Models at Hussein Chalayan’s Paris show who took a shower on the catwalk, allowing their soluble clothes to melt away 12 BMX bikers and professional skateboarders catching some air on the ramps at Jimmy Choo’s menswear show, held inside a London leisure centre 19 Giant Roman arches on the Kenzo catwalk with models sweeping through on a conveyor belt 80 Crushed cars, 12 motorcycles popping wheelies, one monster truck, two spinning cop cars and two BMWs exploding into flames at Philipp Plein’s men’s show 20 A-listers playing blackjack and roulette at Chanel’s casino set in Paris’ Grand Palais shows 3 Lifesized fake carwashes, featuring fluffy rotating brushes and bubble machines, on Jeremy Scott’s runway at Moschino 700 Plexiglas panels hanging from the ceiling at the Prada men’s show 200…

A world of oenophile wonders and spirit-raising accoutrements As part of one of Italy’s most prominent fashion families, entrepreneur and designer Anna Fendi has been exposed to the beauty of her country’s products all her life. After years at the creative helm of the family business, she has branched out to explore yet another field of Italian expertise, with a carefully selected collection of wines, and accessories designed to accompany them. The AFV (Anna Fendi Vini) selection comprises over 20 wines of different varieties, including classic Chiantis and Soave wines from Veneto. All are named after couture-inspired terms, such as Velvet, Twill or Lamé, to reflect their unique qualities. The collection, which also features traditional spirits such as grappa, offers a panorama of Italian grape production. ‘I have always been…

Hair: Neil Grupp at The Wall Group Make-up: Jen Myles Photography assistant: Douglas Segars Fashion assistants: Zoë Sinclair, Paolina Leccese Model: Liisa Winkler at One Management Casting: Beth Dubin Special thanks to: Sean Kelly Gallery, where Joseph Kosuth’s installation, Agnosia, an Illuminated Ontology, was on show late last year…

For stockists, see page 216 Hair: Neil Grupp at The Wall Group Make-up: Jen Myles Photography assistant: Gabriella Worosz-Banas Digital operator: Remi Pujol Fashion assistants: Zoë Sinclair, Elle Britt, Paolina Leccese Model: Chiara Mazzoleni at Marilyn NY Casting: Beth Dubin Shot at the Smith House (1967), Connecticut, US, designed by Richard Meier & Partners. Thanks to Edgar Almaguer, Chuck Smith and Hobie Smith. For more on the architecture, visit Wallpaper.com…

For stockists, see page 216 Hair: Alexander Soltermann Make-up: Dele Olo Interiors: Matthew Morris Set build: Cloud & Horse Photography assistant: Ronan McCall Digital operator: Daniel Le Breton Fashion assistants: Jemma Sawyer, Ola Ebiti Model: Bradley Phillips at Milk Management Casting: Elizabeth Goldson…

A Alexander McQueen Tel: 44.20 7494 8845 (UK) alexandermcqueen.com Artifice artificebooksonline.com Asprey Tel: 44.20 7493 6767 (UK) asprey.com B B&B Italia Tel: 44.20 7591 8111 (UK) bebitalia.com Balenciaga Tel: 44.800 051 7433 (UK) balenciaga.com Bally Tel: 44.20 7499 0057 (UK) bally.co.uk Barbara Casasola barbaracasasola.com Berluti Tel: 44.20 7437 1740 (UK) berluti.com Boglioli Tel: 39.02 7639 4051 (Italy) boglioli.it Boss Tel: 44.20 7554 5700 (UK) hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta Tel: 44.20 7838 9394 (UK) bottegaveneta.com Brioni Tel: 44.20 7491 2101 (UK) brioni.co.uk C Calvin Klein Collection Tel: 44.800 7463 6499 (UK) calvinklein.com Caruso Tel: 44.20 7486 2357 (UK) carusomenswear.com Céline Tel: 44.20 7660 0990 (UK) celine.com Chanel chanel.com Chloé Tel: 44.20 7811 3950 (UK) chloe.com Chrome Hearts Tel: 44.20 7318 3126 (UK) chromehearts.com Comme des Garçons Tel: 44.20 7518 0680 (UK) doverstreetmarket.com…

The sharpest trends, trailblazers and sartorial triumphs DOUBLE BREASTED NEW TAKES ON THE DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT, FROM LEAN TO ASYMMETRIC, SEE US BUTTONING UP IN STYLE The double-breasted suit has largely been in abeyance since Tom Ford put a sexy shimmer on single-breastedness two decades ago. Hedi Slimane and Thom Browne – slimming the two-piece suit to the point of discomfort – all but killed the DB. Now it’s back. But this is not the heavily engineered British model of yore – the new double-breasted jacket is a leaner, more louche affair. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s Stefano Pilati has channelled early Armani with light, fluid, unstructured double-breasted jackets: think Richard Gere in American Gigolo but more diaphanous. Pilati has long championed the ‘broken suit’, with nonmatching separate parts. He even layered a…

Craft spirit distilleries are having their day in the sun. East London collective Sweetdram concocts or rethinks liqueurs before searching out suitable distilleries to upscale and bottle its results. Its first release, ‘a contemporary reimagining’ of the largely forgotten French liqueur Escubac, is being produced by Distillerie Combier, which boasts a stillroom designed by Gustave Eiffel. Australia also has its share of innovative spirit makers, including Melbourne-based microdistillery New World Whisky, which has just released Project X, a three-year-old white whisky with an ‘oily mouthfeel’, hints of old oak and a tropical fruit finish. And as such haute spirits deserve an equally sophisticated vessel, we turned to another Melbourne operation, Denver and Liely, which has just launched a hand-blown whisky glass, a refined tumbler with a wide base that maximises…

The brothers wove together a chevron pattern from a Chanel handbag design with the brand’s interlocking Cs Harry and David Rich know their Dianthus gallicus from their Primula japonica and could talk all day about flowers and plants from around the world, but start a conversation about luxury fashion brands and they will tell you that they only know one, ‘the French one: Chanel’. The brothers, originally from Brecon in Wales, were commissioned by the fashion house to create a garden at its ‘Mademoiselle Privé’ exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery in London at the end of last year. No previous exhibition at the Saatchi had made use of the 1,500 sq m approach to the Duke of York’s HQ on King’s Road, where the gallery has its base. The Rich…

Top brass SENATO HOTEL, MILAN Slowly but surely, Milan’s boutique hotel scene is heating up, thanks to chic new openings like the Senato Hotel. Run by the Ranza family – fourth generation Milanese entrepreneurs – the 43-room property unfolds within a five-storey neoclassical building that was once the family’s private residence. Architect Alessandro Bianchi called on a host of local Milanese talent, from florist Rosalba Piccinni to metal lighting company Bottega Gadda, to build on his sleek but cosy interiors, which comprise an assembly of plush materials (marble, brass, handsome wood parquet flooring and rich velvet furnishings) in a discerning palette of matt black, bottle green and shimmering gold. In the inner courtyard, Bianchi has created a slate-grey stone pool of shallow water that smartly reflects the building’s architecture. The…

For stockists, see page 216 Hair: Olivier Schawalder at Agence Saint Germain Make-up: Topolino at Calliste Manicurist: Virginie Mataja at Airport Set design: Carole Grégoris Photography assistants: Corinna Schulte, Giulio Castelli Fashion assistants: Zoë Sinclair, Ola Ebiti Model: Sophia at Supreme Management Casting: Beth Dubin Performance artist: Marion T at Sport Model Special thanks to: Galerie Bernard Dulon, Galerie Flak…

For stockists, see page 216 In the seven years that this page has recorded the recipes of the world’s leading artists and designers, this is the first time we’ve heard from a creative polymath whose wide range of endeavours actually includes a book of recipes. In 2005, art-fashion colossus Karl Lagerfeld published The Karl Lagerfeld Diet, which was notable for including quail and wine and for the honesty of its author, who admitted he lost weight to look good in clothes designed by Hedi Slimane. It was a bestseller in France, where they also like to look good in clothes. For his favourite recipe of stuffed peppers, Lagerfeld follows the strictures of his diet book and the focus is on lean protein and plenty of vegetables. And if you really…