Robb ReportSeptember 2016的目錄

“We don’t bother much about dress and manners in England, because as a nation we don’t dress well and we’ve no manners.” —George Bernard Shaw THIS LINE FROM Shaw’s 1897 play You Never Can Tell no doubt immediately suggested to U.S. audiences that this comedy was one of errors. Fashionable Americans then took English manners and dress quite seriously, as evidenced in the extreme by wealthy New York socialite and sportsman James John Van Alen, who reportedly affected a top hat and monocle and peppered his speech with such archaic interpolations as forsooth and egad. Today, Britain’s sartorial tastemakers have embraced a more relaxed and contemporary attitude, as readers will discover in this month’s style features, “Street Smart” (page 116) and “Redefining Formal” (page 96), which were photographed in the…

Tom Ford Private Blend Les Extraits Verts This trio of fragrances features scents from greenery not commonly found in cologne, such as box-tree-oil accord and oakwood absolute. The notes are fresh and woodsy. ($225 each/50ml) Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Ginestra Spicy and floral, this distinctive unisex fragrance is infused with pure extractions from the Mediterranean broom flower, which thrives near Sicily’s Mount Etna volcano. ($230/50ml) Lalique L’Insoumis An art deco–style bottle bearing Lalique’s signature scrolling fern pattern holds this scent with hints of amber, musk, lavender, and sage. ($95/50ml) L’Homme Prada Prada blended iris and amber with classic perfume ingredients to create this warm and musky fragrance. ($78/50ml)…

Sunseeker is becoming the Aston Martin of yacht builders: Its British-made speedboats and superyachts appeared in each of the four James Bond films that were released from 1999 through 2008. That isn’t a Sunseeker in which Bond pursues a helicopter down the Thames in the franchise’s latest installment, Spectre, but one is featured in an equally thrilling chase through London from an earlier film. The World Is Not Enough (1999): The Sunseeker Superhawk 34 that screams down the Thames at 60 mph is part of the longest-ever Bond pre-title sequence. Driven by the assassin Giulietta da Vinci, the Superhawk is eventually sunk by torpedoes that Bond launches from Q’s racing boat. Die Another Day (2002): Jinx Johnson climbs aboard a Superhawk 48 after escaping from Isla…

More than a year has passed since a devastating magnitude-7.8 earthquake struck near Kathmandu. While the Nepalese capital continues to rebuild, the city’s most luxurious hotel, Dwarika’s (dwarikas.com), is revamped and ready for visitors. “We were lucky that the hotel suffered only superficial damage,” says Sangita Shrestha Einhaus, whose father opened Dwarika’s in 1977. Einhaus not only spearheaded the hotel’s post-quake renovations—restoring its centuries-old facades and upgrading its 74 rooms and suites—but also contributed greatly to relief efforts, helping to reconstruct homes and build temporary settlements for those displaced by the damage. Guests of the hotel can book tours with the outfitter Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.com) to explore UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Durbar Square and the Temple of the Living Goddess. For a deeper sense of Kathmandu’s ongoing…

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Though we tend to associate the Bugatti name with supercars, the family’s talent has long reached beyond the automotive realm. The clan of artisans includes not only Ettore, the founder of Automobiles E. Bugatti (now known simply as Bugatti), but also his artist-and-designer father, Carlo, and his brother Rembrandt, a sculptor. One piece of their impressive design legacy is Carlo’s groundbreaking Cobra chair from 1902, a sculptural wood seat that suggests a snake in its hood-flared pose. Now a modern version of the chair is making its debut. Created by the Luxury Living Group (luxury livinggroup.com) as part of the new Bugatti Home collection, the Cobra evokes a snake’s posture but also boasts contemporary styling inspired by the $2.6 million Bugatti Chiron. The chair’s frame is a single piece of…

A famed fashion house and a cult-favorite home-appliance manufacturer have transformed the archetypal single-door 1950s-style fridge into a nod to Italian craftsmanship and Sicilian aesthetics. Each of the one-of-a-kind designs in the new limited-edition Frigorifero d’Arte collection by the Italian brands Dolce & Gabbana (dolcegabbana.com) and Smeg (smeg.com) underwent many hours of meticulous hand-painting by Sicilian artists in the style of carretti siciliani , or Sicilian carts. Historically, depictions on the sides of the two-wheeled horse- or donkey-drawn carts told tales of epic poems through elaborate painted scenes, and Frigorifero d’Arte is no different. Adopting the major themes and iconography of the carts, as well as those of Sicilian marionette theater, the refrigerators—Smeg’s FAB28 model—feature such pictographs as medieval knights and battle scenes. Cultural touchstones, including the Trinacria symbol and…

It is by choice that Lauren Adriana (laurenadriana.com) doesn’t have a signature style. “I like the freedom to create something new each time,” says the 30-year-old British jewelry designer, whose one-of-a-kind pieces share few if any commonalities beyond their creator’s bold use of color and unexpected proportions. “Once you have done something” she adds, “you want to move on and explore new concepts” Adriana’s exploratory spirit and considerable ingenuity have quickly made her works desirable collectibles in her native London and in New York where they are sold exclusively at Fred Leighton. Recent creations (clockwise from far left) include her Cascade Fringe earrings with diamonds and blue zircons; Sunrise earrings with pink tourmalines and spinels; Quatrefoil ring with Malaya garnet, spinels, natural pearls, and diamonds; and Starburst ring with yellow…

Thanks to its remarkable detail and color intensity, the face of the new Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Thousand Year Lights watch (888.866.0059, jaquet-droz.com) seems to leap across the room. The secret to this visual splendor: mother-of-pearl. The lustrous substance lies underneath the black-lacquer dial and is revealed by subtle recesses—the results of intaglio engraving—that also accommodate layers of translucent-colored paint creating the floral design. The brand’s métiers d’art department, which has grown gradually over the past few years, drew inspiration from mother-of-pearl and lacquer jewelry boxes crafted a millennium ago in Korea. Five variations have been created for the Thousand Year Lights (priced from $39,900 to $51,500), and each variation is limited to 28 pieces.…

YANN FILLIOUX, the seventh generation of his family to serve as master blender for the House of Hennessy, gazes at the rich amber liquid in his tasting glass. “This” he says, “is among the last Cognacs I will create” But rather than ending a legacy that began in 1800, when James Hennessy hired Jean Fillioux to become his first maître de chai, the Cognac represents the continuation of a heritage that has lasted more than 200 years. The eighth generation of the Fillioux family—Yann’s nephew, Renaud Fillioux de Gironde—is set to take on his uncle’s historic responsibility; and the Cognac, Hennessy 8 ($39,000, hennessy.com), marks the moment with a blend of eight eaux-de-vie, including some of the cellar’s oldest and a touch of the youngest, which was selected by de…

Being contrarian is second nature to the Gaja family, whose name today evokes the best of Italian viticulture. Founded by Giovanni Gaja in 1859 in the Piedmontese village of Barbaresco, the fledgling concern’s location was then regarded as an impediment to greatness. The most prestigious producers in Piedmont “were not from Barbaresco, but were from Barolo” says Gaia Gaja, Giovanni’s great-great-granddaughter and the daughter of Angelo Gaja, who took up the reins of the firm in 1961. Angelo was dedicated to elevating the quality of his wines and the reputation of Barbaresco, and he employed many then-controversial techniques, such as using temperature-controlled fermentation tanks and French barriques. He also introduced international grape varieties to the region and acquired two vineyards in Barolo. Two of the wines to emerge from these…

MALAYSIA’S TROPICAL ARCHIPELAGO of Langkawi has been called Bali without the crowds. Sure to attract a new audience is the St. Regis Langkawi (stregislangkawi.com), which opened in April on the chain’s namesake main island. Set on a powdery-white cove flanked by low-slung limestone hills, the 89-room resort blends Moorish design with St. Regis–style sophistication, forming a blissful beach retreat where mashrabiya screens share space with Swarovski chandeliers. Four overwater villas feature private swimming pools and unfettered vistas of the Andaman Sea and rain forest. Tending to every accommodation are St. Regis’s signature butlers, who can arrange anything from a sunset cruise on the resort’s private yacht to a rempah wangi bath of ginger, lemongrass, and pandan leaves in the Iridium Spa. Cabo Is Calling BAJA CALIFORNIA is booming with new…

ON A BRIGHT summer day on London’s distinguished Savile Row, it’s easy to notice the shift in men’s attire. The days of businessmen walking along the famed thoroughfare in structured, strong-shouldered power suits paired with the compulsory dress shirt, necktie, and pocket square are, by and large, a thing of the past. That uniform has evolved, and now it is common to see men wearing relaxed tailored jackets, trousers, and open-collared shirts and exuding the relaxed confidence that comes with comfortable clothes. They are forgoing the traditional suit in favor of unstructured jackets and “broken” suits—ensembles that pair jackets with a different style of trousers. It’s a more modern way of dressing in today’s less formal society. “Today it is all about choices, and men have a very clear opinion…

Foxhill Manor This eight-bedroom Cotswolds inn is a study in quirky British design, with sherbet-colored settees, mounted butterflies, whitewashed armoires, a discreet butler, and a view that stretches to the Welsh Black Mountains. (foxhillmanor.com; $400–$700) Lime Wood Hotel A grand country retreat in Hampshire’s New Forest National Park, Lime Wood offers guest quarters in the original Regency country house, as well as new pavilions, coach houses, and garden lodges, featuring designer David Collins’s tasteful woodland interiors. (lime woodhotel.co.uk; $440–$1,360) The Pig near Bath Kitchen gardens, greenhouses, fruit cages, and smokehouses surround the main house, along with a herd of 80 fallow deer, stables, and cottages with an impeccably rustic chic style. (thepighotel.com; $200–$390) Soho Farmhouse The mammoth resort bordered by a lake and a stream features a central 18th-century farmhouse and…

CAPTIVATED BY the beauty of his surroundings and the blazing sunshine over his city, the Italian baron Carlo Magnani collaborated with a local perfumer to create his own personal scent, a fragrance that exuded the fresh, crisp, and citrusy notes that reminded him of his hometown. That was in Parma, Italy, in 1916. Today the scent, Colonia, hasn’t aged at all; it remains one of the best-selling colognes from Acqua di Parma (acquadiparma.com). To mark its centenary, the brand has commissioned the Italian jeweler Damiani to create 100 glass flacons of Colonia ($1,105), each featuring a silver design that includes the Duke of Parma’s coat of arms and is topped with a black Bakelite cap. The flacons will be packaged by hand, as Colonia always has been, and presented in…

What should every woman have in her jewelry collection? White diamonds. It’s like building a clothing collection; you need certain basics first, like white-diamond stud earrings, chains, bracelets, and rings. These three colored stones—what about them drew you in? The rich purple-blue in tanzanite is one of the prettiest colors you will ever see in a gemstone, [and] large, untreated Burmese spinels are quite collectible. I buy every one I come across, which is not very often in sizes over 10 carats. What inspires you right now? Tom Ford; he does things impeccably. I’ve always been a Valentino fan. I love architecture and cars—everything about cars, from the look and style to the artwork of their interiors. Describe your design philosophy. My challenge is to create simple designs and yet…

• WITH ITS YACHTS having appeared over the years on many magazine covers and in a few James Bond films (see “Forming a Bond with 007”), Sunseeker is accustomed to media exposure—but not the kind it received earlier this year when the BBC aired Britain’s Biggest Superyachts: Chasing Perfection. The hour-long documentary, shot over a 10-month period in 2014 and 2015, captures the company at a crossroads. Its executives have decided that the best way to rebound from the Great Recession is to invest heavily in building and marketing large and luxurious models such as the 155 and 131 from its Yacht series. The story swings from sales-staff members as they show the latest models at the Cannes and Southampton boat shows to a client who obsesses over the veins…

At the 1,000th-delivery ceremony in Florida, Flexjet CEO Michael Silvestro commented on the fast emergence of Embraer as a major player in the business-jet field. He noted how it has gone from having a zero market share in 2002 to a 17 percent share in 2016. Said Silvestro, “They did the right thing every step of the way.” 1969: Empresa Brasileira de Aeronáutica (Embraer) is established as a government-owned corporation. 1994: Embraer is privatized. 2000: Embraer introduces the Legacy 600 (then called the Legacy Executive), its first business jet; deliveries begin in 2002. 2005: Embraer forms Embraer Executive Jets, the business-jets division based in Florida. 2008: Embraer Executive Jets begins deliveries of the personal-class Phenom 100, its first clean-sheet business-jet design. 2009: The first Phenom 300, a light-class jet, is…

Club Macanudo, New York City (clubmacanudo.com) The restaurant offers a recently expanded menu, an ultra-premium bar (L’Essence de Courvoisier and Frapin Cuvée 1888), and a fully stocked humidor (Macanudo Café to Partagas 150). The Lanesborough, London (lanesborough.com) The hotel’s Garden Room, with its fireplace and plush leather chairs, is served by a walk-in humidor filled with more than 1,000 vintage and current Cuban cigars. The vintage Cognacs date from the 1770s. The French Laundry, Yountville, Calf. (thomas keller.com) After a meal at Thomas Keller’s restaurant, guests may relax in the courtyard with vintage Cognac and cigars, including J.G. Monnet & Company Grande Fine Champagne from 1875 and pre-embargo Cuban cigars. Graycliff, Nassau, the Bahamas (graycliff.com) The resort sells Cuban rarities such as Behike 56 and pre-embargo Havanas circa 1900–1910, in…

Larkmead Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Olmo ($175, larkmead.com) The inaugural release (named for Dr. Harold P. Olmo) is out in October. Intense wine from gravel soil. Realm Cellars 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard ($460, realmcellars.com) This “elegant, floral” wine sold out quickly and is fetching high prices on the secondary market. Tusk Estates 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($450, tuskestates.com) “Among the prettiest, silkiest, most amazing Cabernets,” Johnson says. Due in September. Mayacamas Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder (estimated at $125, mayacamas.com) The first release since the historic winery was purchased by Charles Banks debuts in the fall of 2017. Old-world style with crisp acidity and little oak.…

THE SCORCHING subtropical sun was high and bright when Anjali lumbered her way into the Rapti River. Her giant flat feet slow and powerful, she splashed into the cool waters of the shallow bed and lowered herself with a thud. Perched atop her back, a thin, young mahout beckoned me to climb aboard. Me? I motioned with my thumb and a questioning look. The mahout nodded before bouncing off the great animal’s back with a graceful flourish. The cold water rushed around my ankles as I stared at the giant mound of wrinkled flesh before me and started pawing at her leathery mass. I raised my leg awkwardly, hoping to catch a gristly nook with my curled toes. Nearby, a group of young boys giggled as I scrambled clumsily onto…

Gieves & Hawkes Established: 1771 Location: No. 1 One of the world’s oldest tailoring houses. Creates the uniforms of Her Majesty’s Bodyguard. gievesandhawkes.com Henry Poole & Co. Established: 1806 Location: No. 15 Founded as a military tailoring house. Credited with inventing the tuxedo in the 1860s. henrypoole.com Norton & Sons Established: 1821 Location: No. 16 Where outdoorsmen go for bespoke hunting garments. nortonandsons.co.uk H. Huntsman & Sons Established: 1849 Location: No. 11 Known for its house tweed. Counts Paul Newman, Clark Gable, and Gregory Peck among its past clients. huntsmansavilerow.com Dege & Skinner Established: 1865 Location: No. 10 Offers an in-house bespoke shirt service—the only one of its kind on the Row. dege-skinner.co.uk Ozwald Boateng Established: 1986 Location: No. 30 Tailored clothing with a fashionable bent, from a former creative…

Followers we are not. At Robb Report Home & Style, our focus is not the fashionable, or what’s presently popular, but rather the fashion-forward. Those who set trends instead of reacting to them, those who bring new depth and dimension to the realm of home and design—they are our raisons d’être. This September edition of our Home & Style special section brims with the brainchildren of such pioneers. In Design Seen, which starts on page 149, you’ll find an Alexandra Von Furstenberg–designed desk that makes neon look new again; impossibly artful textiles from a jewelry designer who once worked in fashion for Alexander McQueen; and a dining table by the inimitable Jean-Louis Deniot that features a resin-and-metal pedestal modeled after a woman’s A-line skirt. On page 182, we bring you…

4VOO, page 203 4voo.com 954.213.6500 Aireloom, page 155 aireloom.com Arturo Fuente, page 93 arturofuente.com Audemars Piguet, page 49 audemarspiguet.com 888.214.6858, 866.595.9700 Bell & Ross, page 67 bellross.com 888.307.7887 Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices, page 121 berkshirehathawayhs.com Bevolo, page 133 bevolo.com 504.522.9485 Bobbie Carlyle Sculpture, page 169 bobbiecarlylesculpture.com 970.622.0213 Boghossian, page 61 boghossianjewels.com Boglioli, page 30 boglioli.it Breguet, Cover 4 breguet.com 212.288.4014, 877.403.8160 British Virgin Islands, page 40c bvitourism.com 800.835.8530 Brunello Cucinelli, page 37 brunellocucinelli.com 212.627.9202 Bruno Magli, pages 6-7 brunomagli.com Cape Kidnappers , pages 128-129 capekidnappers.com Carl F. Bucherer, page 78 carl-f-bucherer.com 800.395.4306 Century 21 Fine Homes & Estates, page 193 century21.com/finehomes Cesare Attolini, page 32 cesareattolini.com 212.246.0085, 800.550.0005 Charles Krypell, page 40 charleskrypell.com…

Paul Boutros has been fascinated by timepieces ever since he laid eyes on an IWC Portofino at age 10 (“Love at first sight,” he says). The head of the Americas for Phillips Watches and a specialist in authentication and valuation, he continues to build his personal collection of timepieces that embody pivotal points in design or engineering. Here he discusses the contemporary watch he believes holds the most potential for collectors. The Proposition The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A is the ultimate reinterpretation of a 20th-century design icon: a graceful update of the 1976–1982 Nautilus Ref. 3700, Patek’s first luxury steel sports watch. Originally designed by Gerald Genta, its streamlined look was inspired by portholes found on maritime vessels and features fine hand-finished details inside and out. The Selling Points…