Robb ReportSeptember 2017的目錄

1 SEEING GREEN PANERAI LIMITED EDITION GREEN DIAL COLLECTION “Panerai (panerai.com) isn’t breaking any technical ground with the introduction of three green dials this month, but the models—Radiomir 8 Days Titanio ($12,100), Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio ($9,200), and Luminor 1950 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Titanio ($18,100)—are noteworthy as the stylistic descendants of the sought-after Bronzo from 2011. Limited to 250, 300, and 200 pieces, respectively, the camo-green releases capitalize on the fashion world’s military-chic trend, and their limited availability will no doubt cement their long-term collectibility.” —JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST 2 RECORD-BREAKING BULL LAMBORGHINI HURACÁN PERFORMANTE “The Lamborghini Huracán Performante (lamborghini.com), which should start arriving in showrooms as early as this month, set a lap record for production cars at Germany’s notorious Nürburgring Nordschleife circuit last October. Not that I…

THE SIX-DECK, 361-foot Jubilee, which Oceanco (oceancoyacht.com) delivered in July, is the company’s largest yacht and the largest ever built in the Netherlands. Sam Sorgiovanni, who has designed several Oceanco vessels over the years, was responsible for the vast interior, which includes 15 staterooms, an owner’s deck, and multiple saloons. He also selected all the decor, right down to the cushions. Jubilee was delivered in turnkey condition, fully equipped and ready to sail. The punch list for Burgess, which served as project manager, included thousands of items ranging from tenders, water toys, and spare engine parts to china, crystal, and silverware for the formal dining area. In addition to its impressive size, Jubilee’s noteworthy features include the helipad on the foredeck with a concealed mooring deck below, an elaborate tropical-fish…

THIS MODERN, high-design Cristallino foosball table ($14,400) from Teckell (ddcnyc.com) is built with tempered, clear crystal and has a black, laminated crystal field that will quicken the game. The players are crafted of aluminum in two shades—shiny chrome and dark nickel—and mounted on rods equipped with self-lubricating bearings to keep the action swift, smooth, and stealthy. The goals are made of polished stainless-steel frames and lined with handmade black nets.…

THE ITALIANS HAVE MASTERED the art ofsprezzatura—appearing effortlessly put together and stylish. This seeming nonchalance is in fact the result of measured and deliberate skill in the case of a man’s suit. As any well-heeled Italian can tell you, a Neapolitan cut is noticeably different from a Milanese silhouette. Because clothing has evolved to reflect the character of the city where it is made, Italian style is as varied as its geography. Milanese discretion prevails in the north, where sober blue and gray suits are the preference; to the south, in Naples, where the jacket is a statement piece, an exquisite expressiveness meets the eye. Florence is influenced by the nearby Tuscan countryside, where men tend to wear tweed in shades of olive and rust resembling the hills, while Rome…

Steven Soderbergh scrambles to the roof of a semitruck, sets up a tripod, and begins to shoot. Before him lie undulating rows of grape vines, the leaves glinting gold in the early dawn as a harvest crew begins the day’s labor. It is an improbable scene: We are in the far south of Bolivia, a country not exactly known for wine grapes. And Soderbergh—the groundbreaking director whose credits span from 1989’s Sex, Lies and Videotape to Traffic, Ocean’s Eleven, Magic Mike, and the just-released Logan Lucky—isn’t here to shoot another film. He is simply here to visit—and, at the moment, photograph—the source of singani, a clear and compelling spirit that he is almost singularly responsible for introducing to the United States. The national spirit of Bolivia, singani is an 80-proof…

Italians have always been at the vanguard of the visual arts. Romans of classical antiquity did not merely mimic earlier Greek and Hellenistic sculpture; they strove instead for more realistic—rather than idealized—depictions and assimilated influences from the east to arrive at their own distinct aesthetic. In architecture, these ancient engineers pioneered the construction of domes and aqueducts and made inventive use of concrete, while the Italian Renaissance gave us oil painting and one-point perspective. The somewhat democratic creative spirit that pervades the Italian culture—in combination with the national preference for playful livability at home—accounts for the near-universal appeal of the country’s lifestyle. The Italian design vernacular is at once sophisticated and down-to-earth, often irreverent with respect to shape, color, and materials. This characteristic blend of traits is clearly present in…

 where a baroque fountain or ornate piazza is always just around the corner and magnificent feats of art and architecture stand where they have stood for centuries. But beyond its checklist of monuments and masterpieces, the Eternal City is an evolving one, where hotels, restaurants, and artisans are infusing new life into long-held traditions. ¶ Those who check in at the new Hotel De’ Ricci (hoteldericci.com) will discover a novel approach to Roman hospitality: Each of the property’s eight suites comes with an in-room wine cellar and a personal sommelier. Owner Lorenzo Lisi, of the renowned Pierluigi restaurant, oversees wine tastings and tours exclusively for his guests. “Cycling along the banks of the Tiber River with my family is priceless.Because the river sits at a lower level than the city,…

GIVEN THAT THIS month’s fashion features rejoice in that elusive quality—genius—as it is manifested in Italy’s design world, it seems appropriate to open the issue with words from an Italian master of a different art entirely. Many of us view the creative process as a journey, but for the journalist and author Italo Calvino, travel itself was an exercise of the imagination, and his writing—when not weaving tales about trips—makes a voyage of the narrative itself. Travel provided the creative fodder for many of this month’s features. While in Florence, style editor Jill Newman visited Antico Setificio, the 18th-century textile workshop painstakingly restored by Stefano Ricci. “We arrived for a tour and were greeted by waiters in white jackets pouring Champagne,” Jill says. “Amid the magnificent old looms, we sat…

YOU NOTICE THE ROCKS FIRST—enormous boulders jutting from the hillsides like magnificent monuments over the gin-clear waters. Just beyond, nestled among papaya and mango trees on the other side of a rope bridge, sits the new Six Senses Zil Pasyon (sixsenses.com). Opened last October on the privately owned Félicité Island, Zil Pasyon brings the Six Senses brand’s blend of bespoke wellness and eco-luxury to a dramatic setting in Seychelles. Guests reside in one of 30 spacious suites (all with plunge pools and butlers) and take part in custom wellness programs that focus on fitness, nutrition, or simple relaxation. Regardless of the program, the experience is never clinical. Cuisine is fresh and simply prepared, infused with Creole and international flavors, and spa therapies use vanilla, coconut milk, and other local and…

THE GOLDEN ACANTHUS LEAVES, filigree, and figurines festooned on a new collection of timepieces from Dolce & Gabbana (dolcegabbana.it) probably come as a shock to those who are accustomed to the Swiss watch industry’s more conservative lines. The ornamentation of Alta Orologeria takes cues from Italy, including the Sicilian baroque architecture that has long inspired the brand. Although these references contrast with watchmaking north of the Alps, a closer inspection of the pieces reveals attention to detail that would warm the heart of any Swiss artisan: Every surface has been finely engraved by hand. “The collection comes from the high-end couture clothing the brand does for a very select clientele,” says Walter Veneruz, director of the Alta Orologeria program. “From that, we began making high-end jewelry several years ago. These…

A SweetKiwi $1,960–$3,270 A first-edition print of the 19th-century avian archive A History of the Birds of New Zealand. Sotheby’s London, The Library of John and Suzanne Bonham, September 26, sothebys.com Breakfast at Christie’s $78,500–$104,650 Audrey Hepburn’s personal script of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, annotated in her turquoise ink. Christie’s London, The Personal Collection of Audrey Hepburn, September 27, christies.com Epic Dickens $15,000 A first-edition print of Charles Dickens’s classic 1859 novel A Tale of Two Cities. Available through John Windle Antiquarian Bookseller, johnwindle.com The StuffHigh Bids Are Made Of $20,000 A first-edition print of the 1929 detective novel The Maltese Falcon. Heritage Auctions, Rare Books, September 14, ha.com First in Flight $1,500–$2,500 A January 1905 edition of Gleanings in Bee Culture magazine, featuring the first printed eyewitness account of the…

Cesare Attolini THE NOW-CLASSIC unstructured sport coat perfected by Cesare Attolini (cesare attolini.com) has come to symbolize the regional style of Naples. Much of the credit for this design goes to the late Vincenzo Attolini, who loved English tailoring but found the jacket’s padding too constrictive and hot for the climate. Back in 1930, Attolini removed the pads and refined the silhouette. Today the brand’s traditions are upheld by his grandsons (above), Giuseppe and Massimiliano, who offer a range of custom fabrics used to create expressive sport coats. The house style is a three-button jacket with a high armhole for comfort and ease of motion and a slightly roped shoulder. SPECIALTY: NEAPOLITAN-STYLE JACKETS; A TREMENDOUS RANGE OF EXCLUSIVE FABRICS. BETWEEN FITTINGS: THE NECKTIE SOURCE Custom tie maker E. Marinella (marinellanapoli.it)…

Sciamat DELIVERING distinctive suits defined by a high collar, wide lapels, and a trim waist, Sciamat (scia mat.com) was established in 2002. The best advocates for the brand are owners and brothers Valentino and Nicola Ricci, who are often photographed in their dandy-style suits by numerous fashion bloggers on Instagram. A former lawyer and now the chief cutter, Valentino (right) creates unlined bespoke suits and overcoats that are lightweight yet shapely. SPECIALTY: STRONG AND STYLISH DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS AND UNLINED OVERCOATS. A. Caraceni THE FIRST NAME in Milanese tailoring, A. Caraceni (caracenimilano.com) remains an enduring symbol of understatement. Established by Augusto Caraceni in 1946, the tailor shop makes bespoke suits favored by CEOs who want to convey a commitment to subtle style. Today, Caraceni’s grandchildren and great-grandson continue in the family…

“I am not attracted to straight angles or to the straight line—hard and inflexible—created by man. I am attracted to free-flowing, sensual curves.” —OSCAR NIEMEYER IN AUTOMOBILE DESIGN, SAYS FERRARI DESIGN DIRECTOR FLAVIO MANZONI, THE VOIDS—THE EMPTY SPACES—ARE AS IMPORTANT AS THE VOLUMES. Manzoni, who studied architecture and industrial design at the University of Florence, attributes this credo to Oscar Niemeyer, the Brazilian modernist architect whose abstract forms and curves heralded, as the New York Times once wrote, his “war against the straight line, whose rigidity he saw as a kind of authoritarian constraint.” Just as the voids form the curves in Niemeyer’s free-flowing building designs, they are essential to the voluptuous shape of the Ferrari 812 Superfast, Manzoni’s latest creation. More than just beautiful, the 812 Superfast is the…

 STORMS, NEGLECT, COMMERCIAL AND industrialencroachment, orsocialdeclinecantake aheavy toll on even the most charming communities. Yet many long-suffering neighborhoods have shed theirproblempasts tobecomenewlymintedseats ofresidentialsplendor.Theforcesdrivingsuch transformations are many but include scarcity of available land, ease of access, the expansion of upscale commercial venues and amenities, and advances in technology that allow planners to execute increasingly ambitious feats of engineering. From New York’s built-from-scratch Hudson Yards development and the reimagining of the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles to the development of both extensive and exclusive beach offerings, these innovative communities are being embraced by buyers as locations for primary homes and vacation retreats. Those seeking to embellish their real estate portfolios should take a closer look at the following dynamic markets. “In a city where the average building is five stories high, this…

In the annals of modern watchmaking,the drive for innovation has been a constant. From the first tourbillon by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to the debut of carbon and silicon components more recently, watch brands have jockeyed for position in the field. Since 2001, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s Aiguille d’Or prize has been bestowed annually upon pioneers for forging new ground. During this millennium, 12 key innovations have thus far made their mark on the art and science of keeping time. —JUSTIN MASTINE-FROST 2001 Ulysse Nardin Freak INNOVATION: A new escapement design GENESIS: The Freak’s movement parts could not be manufactured with the materials that were considered standard at that time (aluminum, steel, and brass), prompting Ulysse Nardin to begin experiments with silicon. That and a new front-and-center escapement…

The McLaren concept code-named BP23 is a three-passenger, dihedral-doored carbon-fiber design that will become the marque’s most powerful and aerodynamic street-legal model when it goes into production. McLaren plans to build 106 examples and begin delivering them in 2019. The price is said to be about $2 million. Owners can customize the exterior color and interior trim, but if you haven’t yet ordered your car, it’s too late; all have been presold. As the name suggests, the BP23 (the number 3 referring to the car’s passenger capacity) is considered the second bespoke project of the McLaren Special Operations division. It’s presented as the “spiritual successor” to the legendary F1 with which it shares a seating arrangement: driver in the center flanked by a passenger on each side. McLaren also touts…

THE STAKES WERE HIGH when Paris’s Hôtel de Crillon (rosewoodhotels.com) reopened its doors on July 6. The grande dame of the Place de la Concorde had much to live up to: Shuttered for nearly 4 years, it was the latest in a string of high-profile hotel renovations in the City of Light. But any doubts that the Crillon could reclaim its singular standing were erased on opening day, when attendants dressed in sartorial blue suits with chic silk scarves—hardly traditional doorman attire—welcomed guests into a thoroughly reimagined hotel. A creative dream team that included Karl Lagerfeld, artistic director Aline d’Amman, and architect Richard Martinet preserved only what was necessary—and abandoned anything that was not—during the re-creation. The 124 rooms and suites feel like contemporary residences curated with collections of rare…

STRAIGHT FROM HELMING the Grande Orazio on opening day of last year’s Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta & Rendezvous, Pier Luigi Loro Piana breezed into a Virgin Gorda yacht club looking elegant and unruffled. No surprise. The then 64-year-old deputy chairman of the Italian luxury-goods house Loro Piana (loropiana.com) was wearing his brand’s signature polo shirt, Bermuda shorts, and red Storm System jacket, which had been tested by his sailing team to ensure it would stay wrinkle free in wind and water. For over 20 years, the company has been a pioneer in the development of high-performance textiles, including a new fabric called the Race: Super 130 Tasmanian merino wool twisted with a fine silk filament. It yields a lightweight material that is resilient and wrinkle resistant. “The latest fabrics are…

Liverano & Liverano JUST NORTH of the Arno river is the small Liverano & Liverano (liverano.com) boutique, which offers a superb selection of shirts and ties. The real attraction, however, is the workshop behind the store, where Antonio Liverano has been working for seven decades. Here, among walls lined with bolts of some of the most beautiful tweed fabrics, the veteran tailor still cuts all the jackets and suits that bear his name. The house cut has a soft, slightly extended shoulder and is generous across the chest. SPECIALTY: TWEED JACKETS. Stefano Ricci FROM ITS STORE located in a grand palazzo in the center of the city, Stefano Ricci (stefanoricci.com) can create almost anything a man can dream of—a vicuña overcoat or matching father-and-son unlined cashmere jackets. The founding designer’s…

PALMETTO BLUFF palmettobluff.com Palmetto Bluff is an award-winning resort and conservation-based community in Bluffton, South Carolina. Stay for a little or stay for a lifetime, Palmetto Bluff stays with you. Join the mailing list to learn about the Lowcountry’s best-kept secret. VHERNIER vhernier.com Italian jeweler Vhernier has debuted its new Tourbillon ring in 18-karat white gold and diamonds. The two overlapping bands accentuated by a seamless pavé of diamonds once again confirm the brand’s passion for contemporary art and design. ULYSSE NARDIN ulysse-nardin.com Distinctive and modern, the Ulysse Nardin Executive Skeleton Tourbillon embodies the avant-garde design for which the brand is known. Surprisingly airy thanks to ultralight titanium, this piece blends excellence and comfort in a nearly weightless design. $38,000 LE TORRI DI BAGNARA—LUXURY CASTLES COLLECTION letorridibagnara.it Nothing can compare…

It is April in Milan, and the city is in full bloom, its palazzi and sunbaked sidewalks flooded with well-dressed designers and other creative types attending the annual Salone del Mobile furniture fair. Not far from the bustling fairgrounds, however, at the Four Seasons Hotel Milan, the topic of conversation isn’t Tom Dixon or Ron Arad; it is instead Alfa Romeo, Porsche, and Mercedes-Benz. “Are you comfortable driving a stick?” asks Martino Motta Pirman, the CEO of the vintage-car agency Joey Rent. Pirman’s company has partnered with the Four Seasons to offer a new road-trip experience, and he is sizing me up as a driver. I answer with a resounding yes—my daily driver is a 6-speed—and eagerly ask which vintage model Pirman has picked out for me. “Aspetta, ragazza!” he…

 According to Renaissance legend, etched into the ancient Pillars of Hercules—the rocky promontories that mark the Straits of Gibraltar—were the Latin words ne plus ultra, or “nothing farther beyond,” delineating the known realm from the unknown. The phrase became both a warning for sailors and a dare for the brave and ambitious who desired to voyage past those ledges. Over time, the phrase became synonymous with ultimate success and achievement, making Plvs Vltra an apt moniker for the new yacht built by Amels of Holland. The vessel’s owners hoped to make it the ultimate residence at sea, so they called in the experts at Winch Design in London to oversee the interiors. “The owners wanted a full-time residence, not a holiday boat,” says the firm’s founder, Andrew Winch. “That informed…

1 ISLAND INTRIGUE Abundant white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters have long lured many to the Bahamas. But even more enticing for homeowners are the island nation’s low taxes and promise of privacy. 2 ANCIENT ADDRESS In January, Morocco rejoined the African Union after a 33-year absence—a move likely to bolster the nation’s financial and economic stability. Dating back to 1062, the medieval city of Marrakech—a kaleidoscope of markets, historic mosques, and fragrant gardens—has high-end homes at relatively low prices, offering ideal opportunities for investors. 3 CAPITAL ATTRACTION Affluent millennial buyers drawn by the strong job market and award-winning schools in the Washington, D.C., metro area are moving the city’s valuation needle: Million-dollar-plus home sales have increased 7 percent since last year. 4 ECO ESTATES Last fall, the actor Leonardo DiCaprio…