Patchwork & Quilting for Beginners 2nd Edition的目錄

Using templates Some elements require templates, which are copies of the pieces of the pattern. Ready-made templates are available from quilt stores and online. Find out if the seam allowances have been added. Elements to be machine pieced must include the exact seam allowances, while appliqué patterns and those for hand piecing do not need a precise allowance, but are generally cut larger than the finished shape. Many templates are cut with a “window” that shows the area of fabric you will finish up with; this also enables you to mark the seamline and the cutting line without moving the template. Alternatively, you can make your own long-lasting or limited-use templates following these instructions. Limited-use templates using freezer paper: Trace the pattern pieces onto freezer paper and cut them out.…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 40 x 40cm (16 x 16in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Rotary cutter Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Sewing machine Threads to match your fabrics Pins Iron and ironing board Scissors Cushion pad 40 x 40cm (16 x 16in) FABRICS Nine scraps of coordinating fabric to make nine squares, 6.5 x 6.5cm (21⁄2 x 21⁄2 in) each 90 x 42cm (351⁄2 x 161⁄2 in) main fabric SKILLS Joining two or more strips (see p.60) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4 in) throughout, unless otherwise stated 1Cut nine scraps of coordinating fabric, each 6.5cm (21⁄2 in) square. Use the rotary cutter, mat, and quilter’s ruler to make sure that each piece is perfectly square. If there is a particular part of a fabric that you’d like to appear in the centre…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Medium SIZE 30 x 22.5 x 15cm (12 x 83⁄4 x 6in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Measuring tape Rotary cutter or scissors Cutting mat (optional) Quilter’s ruler Pins Threads to match your fabrics Sewing machine Iron and ironing board Sewing needle One 3.5cm (13⁄8 in) button FABRICS A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H , I: Assorted scraps of cotton fabric for the patchwork squares to make a total of 44 squares, each 9.5cm (33⁄4 in) J: 50cm (20in) of 112cm (44in) wide cotton fabric for the lining K: 30cm (12in) of 112cm (44in) wide cotton fabric for the straps L: 14 x 18cm (51⁄2 x 7in) cotton fabric for the button flap SKILLS Piecing (see pp.58–61) Sewing intersecting seams (see pp.72–73) SEAM ALLOWANCE 1cm (3⁄8 in)…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE Approximately 68.5cm (27in) diameter MATERIALS Rotary cutter Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Iron and ironing board One 30cm (12in) minimum long zip Approximately 0.12 cubic meter (4 cubic feet) of polystyrene beads for filling, available online Bean bag liner, available online (recommended) Sewing machine with zip foot Thread to match the fabrics FABRICS 12 fat quarters of coordinating cotton fabrics Approximately 300cm (118in) of heavy interfacing, or enough to cover your fat quarters SKILLS Set-in seams (see pp.102-103) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4 in) throughout Make the template Make a template for the pentagon pieces by enlarging the pentagon template on page 298 so that each side of the pentagon is 28cm (11in) long. If you’d like a larger bean bag, make the template larger, but don’t…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Medium SIZE 38cm (15in) in diameter x 10cm (4in) deep TOOLS AND MATERIALS Tracing paper Measuring tape Pencil Pins Threads to match your fabrics Sewing machine Scissors Iron and ironing board Sewing needle FABRICS 50 x 85cm (193⁄4 x 331⁄2 in) plain white fabric for the circle for the cushion front and for the two semicircles for the cushion back A selection of seven patterned blue fabrics for the petals and the flower centre 24 x 62cm (91⁄2 x 241⁄2 in) blue fabric, cut into two rectangles, each 12 x 62cm (43⁄4 x 241⁄2 in) for the cushion sides Toy filling, wadding, or a 38cm (15in) diameter x 10cm (4in) deep round cushion pad SKILLS Chain piecing (see p.63) Curves and fans (see pp.114–117) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE Approximately 13cm (5in) in diameter TOOLS AND MATERIALS Tracing paper Pencil or marker pen Scissors Stiff card, paper, or freezer paper Pins or paper clips Sewing needle Threads to match your fabrics Toy filling Child-safe toy bell or rattle (optional) FABRICS 12 scraps of coordinating fabric, each a minimum of 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) SKILLS English paper piecing (see pp.124–125) Fussy cutting (optional, see p.38) Pentagon ball layout Cut the template Using a pencil or marker pen, trace the pentagon template (see pp.172-175) onto tracing paper and cut it out. You can make the template larger or smaller if you’d like to alter the size of the ball. Copy the template onto card, paper, or freezer paper to make a total of 12…

Log cabin is a very versatile block design, usually featuring fabric strips surrounding a small central square, as shown here, though some log cabin blocks have other shapes in the centre. Blocks can be made individually or chain pieced. Always leave a 6mm (1⁄4 in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. Log cabin is stunning in simple two-colour versions and the blocks can be set in many ways to create secondary patterns (see p.103). Method 1: Individual blocks 1 Cut a centre square of the desired size, plus seam allowances. Cut a second square the same size from fabric A and, with right sides together, stitch them together along one edge to make a pieced unit. Press open. 2 Cut a strip from fabric A the width of the centre square…

Cathedral window 1Decide the size of the finished square (10cm/4in) and multiply the measurement by 2 (20cm/8in). Add 1.2cm (1⁄2 in) seam allowance and cut four squares this size from the background, fabric A. 2Fold the seam allowance down and press each side of the square flat. Diagonally fold one way and press, then fold along the other diagonal and press firmly to mark the exact centre. Open out. 3Fold each corner of each square to the centre and press the folds firmly. Make sure that the new corners are sharply defined. 4Take a small cross stitch across the centre into each point, through all the layers to hold the points in place. 5Fold each corner to the centre again and press firmly. Take a small cross stitch as before…

Quilting Quilting holds the layers of a quilt together, gives a quilt its texture, and should add to the overall beauty of the piece. Quilting motifs range from geometric grids and simple heart shapes to elaborate scrolls. Some appliqué motifs look best if they are outlined or echoed by quilting. Transferring designs Once the quilt top is finished, you need to transfer the quilting pattern onto it. Use equipment that can be easily removed, such as water- or air-soluble pens or light pencil marks, to mark the pattern. Tailor’s chalk applied lightly can usua be removed. Slivers of soap can make effective and washable marks on dark fabrics. Dressmaker’s carbon paper is indelible and not recommended. Masking tape 1 This method only works for quilting designs in straight lines. After…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 118 x 163cm (461⁄2 x 64in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Scissors Curved safety pins Card Pencil Spray bottle or sponge Rotary cutter Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Water-soluble pen Roll of 2.5cm (1in) masking tape Large-eyed needle Five different-coloured embroidery, or quilting, threads Sewing machine (optional) Thread to match the main fabric Sewing needle FABRIC 200 x 275cm (78 x 108in) of flannel for the main fabric front, back, and binding 123 x 165cm (48 x 65in) wadding SKILLS Hand quilting (see pp.152-153) SEAM ALLOWANCE Hand quilt following the pattern Make the quilt sandwich Cut two pieces of main fabric both 120 x 165cm (47 x 65in). Lay one piece right side down, then lay the wadding to fit on top of it. Lay the other main…

1Cut a background fabric and transfer the design to the right side, using a water-soluble pen. Cut a piece of butter muslin or similar fabric the same size. Tack them together around the edges 2Outline the motif(s) with a small running stitch. Here we have used a contrasting colour thread for clarity. Where lines meet, keep stitches separate so they don’t cross over. When stitching is complete, remove the marking. 3Thread a tapestry needle with quilting or knitting wool or soft cord. From the back, slip the needle through the first channel, leaving a short tail at each end. 4Make small slits in the centre of each element through the backing layer only and stuff small pieces of wadding between the top and the muslin. 5Close each slit in the…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 19cm (71⁄2 in) square TOOLS AND MATERIALS Quilter’s ruler Cutting mat Rotary cutter Sewing machine Pins Threads to match the fabrics and binding tapes FABRICS 21.5 x 43cm (81⁄2 x 17in) main, patterned cotton fabric 21.5 x 43cm (81⁄2 x 17in) insulated wadding 21.5 x 43cm (81⁄2 x 17in) cotton towelling fabric 100cm (40in) bias binding tape SKILLS Machine quilting (see pp.160–163) Binding with pre-made bias binding (see pp.48–49) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4 in) throughout, unless otherwise stated 1Cut one piece of main fabric, one piece of insulated wadding, and once piece of towelling fabric all 21.5cm (81⁄2 in) square. Then, cut one piece of main fabric, one piece of towelling fabric, and one piece of insulated wadding all 16.5 x 21.5cm (61⁄2 x 81⁄2…

General sewing equipment For quiltmaking you will need a set of hand-sewing needles – both “sharps” and “betweens”. Both types come in several lengths, thicknesses, and eye size. Needles are sized by number: the higher the number, the finer the needle. Pins are essential for pinning the layers of a quilt together while you work. Always press seams as you go, with an iron or by fingerpressing. Sharps “Sharps” are standard hand-sewing needles and are usually used for processes such as tacking, hand piecing, and finishing the edge of binding. Betweens or quilting needles Shorter than sharps, these allow quick, even stitching for hand quilting and appliqué. Iron It is essential to press seams as you work, so have an iron and ironing board set up in your work area.…

Understanding the basic principles of colour theory is crucial to designing a successful quilt. Even a simple design gains impact from good colour choices. The three primary colours (red, yellow, and blue) can be placed side by side to create a colour wheel. When two primary colours are combined, they create “secondaries”. Red and yellow make orange, yellow and blue make green, and blue and red make purple. Intermediate colours called tertiaries occur when a secondary is mixed with the nearest primary. Monochromatic designs: These use different versions of the same colour. So a quilt based on greens will not stray into the other sections of the colour wheel, but will only use green fabric. Complementary colours: Colours that lie opposite one another on the wheel, such as yellow and…

Four-patch blocks The simplest four-patch blocks are made up of just four squares (patches), but those four squares can also be created by piecing together two half-square triangles, or four quarter-square triangles, or various combinations thereof. Nine-patch blocks Nine-patch blocks are made of nine units in three rows of three. By adding a third colour to a simple nine-patch of two colours, you can create myriad variations. Pictorial blocks Patchwork pictorial blocks tend to be highly stylized, with the individual elements of the design being made up of square and triangle units in varying combinations. Five- and seven-patch blocks Five-patch blocks consist of a grid of five units in each direction, or 25 units in total, while seven-patch blocks have no fewer than 49 units (seven in each direction). With…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 125 x 145cm (49 x 57in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Measuring tape Quilter’s ruler Rotary cutter Cutting mat Pins Sewing machine Threads to match your fabrics Scissors Iron and ironing board Safety pins Sewing needle FABRICS 1 fabric Jelly Roll™ 560cm (220in) pre-made bias binding or 46 x 112cm (18 x 44in) fabric for double-fold binding 356 x 112cm (140 x 44in) backing fabric 140 x 160cm (55 x 64in) wadding SKILLS Piecing strips (see p.60) Chain piecing (see p.61) Making a bigger backing (see p.45) Binding (see pp.48–51) Quilting in the ditch (see p.163) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4 in) throughout, unless otherwise stated 1Cut the Jelly Roll™ strips into a variety of random lengths of 5–25cm (2–10in), with most pieces about 12cm (5in) long. Use…

Making a pair of half-square triangles While a half-square triangle, which is a square made of two right-angled triangles, can be made by sewing two triangles together, a faster way is to start with two squares and use the method below. 1Cut two squares, each 2.2cm (7⁄8in) larger than the desired finished size and place them right sides together, with the lighter colour on top. 2Using a pencil, mark a diagonal line in one direction across the wrong side of the lighter-coloured square. 3Pin, then machine stitch along each side of the marked line, stitching 6mm (1⁄4 in) from the line. 4Using a rotary cutter or scissors, cut along the pencil line. 5 Open out the pieces of fabric and press the seams, usually towards the darker fabric, to make…

  DIFFICULTY Medium SIZE 152 x 127cm (60 x 50in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Rotary cutter and scissors Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Measuring tape Iron and ironing board Pins Threads to match the fabrics Sewing machine Safety pins or tacking thread Quilting thread Needle FABRICS Five dark and five medium-shade fat quarters in light and dark browns Five dark and five medium-shade fat quarters in reds and greens 50 x 112cm (20 x 44in) each of six different cream fabrics 50 x112cm (20 x 44in) each of six different green fabrics 50 x 112cm (20 x 44in) each of six different red fabrics 320 x 112cm (126 x 44in) backing fabric 46 x 112cm (18 x 44in) binding fabric SKILLS Triangles (see pp.80-85) Seminole patchwork (see pp.144-147) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4in)…

Quilt layouts Many quilt blocks, even fairly simple ones, can create interesting secondary patterns when they are joined, and rotating or reversing blocks makes a quilt look entirely different. The simplest sets are rows of repeating blocks stitched together edge to edge, referred to as “straight set”. Blocks can be set “on point” (turned on the diagonal), with setting triangles around the edges and at each corner. Alternating a pieced block with a plain block means there are fewer blocks to put together. It allows for large, open areas, perfect for showcasing elaborate quilting. This setting needs plain blocks betwen the pieced blocks as well as triangles added to each corner and along each side to fill the edges Log cabin There are so many possible sets for log cabin…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 40 x 40cm (16 x 16in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Rotary cutter Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Pins Thread to match your fabrics Sewing machine Scissors 40cm (16in) square cushion pad FABRICS A: 28 x 28cm (11 x 11in) patterned flower fabric B: 28 x 28cm (11 x 11in) patterned dotty fabric C: 6.5 x 6.5cm (21⁄2 x 21⁄2 in) patterned bird fabric D: 13 x 13cm (5 x 5in) patterned triangle fabric E: 60 x 70cm (231⁄2 x 271⁄2 in) solid grey fabric F: 10 x 26cm (4 x 10in) patterned fabric, for the back inset detail SKILLS Sashing and borders (see pp.104–109) SEAM ALLOWANCES 6mm (1⁄4in) throughout, unless otherwise stated 1Cut four 14cm (51⁄2 in) squares from fabric A; four 6.5 x 14cm (21⁄2 x…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Medium SIZE 14 x 14 x 10cm (51⁄2 x 51⁄2 x 4in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Pencil Tracing paper Scissors Rotary cutter Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Thread to match the fabrics Long, thin, blunt object, such as a chopstick, for turning through Embroidery needle Dark embroidery thread One 1.2cm (1⁄2in) button, for the nose Dried beans or lentils, for weight Toy filling FABRICS A: 20.5 x 20.5cm (8 x 8in) light-coloured tummy and inner ear fabric B: 20.3 x 58.5cm (8 x 23in) body fabric C: 9 x 15cm (31⁄2 x 6in) outer ear fabric D: 2.5 x 14cm (1 x 51⁄2in) tail fabric E: 16.5cm (61⁄2in) square bottom fabric SKILLS Curves (see pp.118–119) Set-in seams (see pp.100-101) SEAM ALLOWANCE 6mm (1⁄4in) throughout Cut the pieces Trace and…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 216 x 216cm (85 x 85in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Measuring tape Quilter’s ruler Rotary cutter Cutting mat Scissors Sewing machine Threads to match your fabrics Iron and ironing board Curved safety pins FABRICS A: 1 x 1m (39 x 39in) cotton fabric B: 1 x 1m (39 x 39in) cotton fabric C: 2 x 2m (79 x 79in) cotton fabric D: 2 x 2m (79 x 79in) cotton fabric E: 2.5 x 2.5m (98 x 98in) cotton fabric 4.5 x 4.5m (177 x 177in) backing fabric 80cm (32in) of fabric of 112cm (44in) width for binding 2.25 x 2.25m (88 x 88in) wadding SKILLS Log cabin (see pp.140-141) SEAM ALLOWANCE 1.2cm (1⁄2 in) throughout Guide to cutting fabric pieces Cut the fabrics The size of…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 10cm (4in) square TOOLS AND MATERIALS One 22 x 22cm (9 x 9in) thin card template Iron and ironing board Threads to match your fabrics Sewing needle Pins Sewing machine One 2.5cm (1in) button with shank, covered in fabric C One 1.5cm (5⁄8in) plain flat button for the back, used as a washer FABRICS A: One 26.5 x 26.5cm (101⁄2 x 101⁄2 in) square of plain teal-coloured fabric B: One 11 x 11cm (41⁄2 x 41⁄2 in) square of red fabric C: One 10 x 20cm (4 x 8in) piece of patterned teal-coloured fabric, cut and made into four half-square triangles (see p.82) D: Two 7.5 x 15cm (3 x 6in) rectangles of the same patterned teal-coloured fabric, for the back Toy filling or wadding…

Knotting to begin 1Knot a 50cm (20in) length of quilting thread. Take the needle down through the top layer of fabric, about 2.5cm (1in) away from where you wish to start stitching. Bring it out where you wish to begin. 2Pull the thread gently until the knot pops through the top layer of fabric but not hard enough to bring it out again. The knot will bury itself in the wadding and be virtually undetectable. Finishing off 1To secure the thread at the end, take a small back stitch through the top layer and pull the thread through to the top. Make a French knot close to the end of the stitching. Secure the wraps with your finger and pull the knot tight. 2Insert the needle point into the top…

This involves tying lengths of cotton thread, lightweight wool, or ribbon through the layers of a quilt to hold them together. Use a sharp-pointed needle with an eye that is large enough to hold the thread but small enough to avoid making holes in the quilt. Space the ties according to the type of wadding, the block pattern, and the size of the quilt. Cotton and wool wadding shift easily and should be tied more closely than polyester. A general guide is 10–15cm (4–6in) apart. 1Working from the centre out, take a stitch down and back up through all the layers and pull the needle and thread through, leaving a 10cm (4in) tail on the top. 2Take a second stitch in the same way in the same place. 3Tie the…

Buttons Novelty buttons make charming embellishments on theme quilts or folk-art versions. Buttons can also become “flowers” at the end of stems in a basket or accents in any number of places. Stitch buttons to the quilt top and knot them if you don’t want to stitch through the backing. Otherwise, tie a knot at the back. They are best reserved for decorative pieces such as wall hangings and should not be used on quilts for children and babies, since they can become detached. Charms Simply tie charms in position on the quilt top, depending on the type and size. Charms are usually used to add a personal touch to a quilt – wedding motifs for a bride’s quilt, for example. They are best reserved for decorative pieces such as…

Hand piecing Mark all seamlines on the wrong side of the fabric to give you an accurate guide to where to sew. Take care when sewing seams on bias-cut edges (for instance on diamond, triangle, or hexagon shapes) or around curves, as the raw edge is prone to stretching. Secure the seam with a small backstitch each time you bring the needle through and use a double backstitched loop (see p.42) at the end of a bias seam; do not sew into the seam allowance. Joining two units with a straight seam 1 Place the two units to be joined right sides together. You must not sew across the seam allowance of the adjacent seam, so mark that seam allowance with pins at the start and end points of the…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Medium SIZE 210 x 210cm (821⁄2 x 821⁄2 in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Quilter’s ruler Rotary cutter Cutting mat Scissors Sewing machine Pins Threads to match your fabrics Iron and ironing board Curved safety pins Quilting thread Needle FABRICS A: 350 x 112cm (138 x 44in) solid cream fabric for the background and borders B: 150 x 112cm (59 x 44in) red gingham fabric for the star points C: 100 x 112cm (391⁄2 x 44in) cream floral fabric for the block corners and the star centres D: 50 x 112cm (20 x 44in) blue floral fabric for the star centres E: One fat quarter of beige floral fabric for the star centres 75 x 112cm (291⁄2 x 44in) fabric for 1.2cm (½in) double-fold binding 450 x 112cm (177…

Straight-set simple continuous sashing Each block in this piece is framed by straight-set simple sashing Straight-set sashing with setting squares Adding a square in each corner between the blocks creates more pattern. The setting squares can also be pieced; simple pinwheel, four-patch, and nine-patch designs work well Blocks can be assembled in rows with the sashing between them running vertically or horizontally. Diagonal set (on point) with sashing Blocks set on point can be framed by sashing and assembled in strips with extra triangles added around the edges to give a chevron effect Simple continuous sashing 1 Cut sashing strips to the desired width plus a 1.2cm (1⁄2 in) seam allowance, and to the same length as one side of the blocks. 2 With right sides together and leaving a…

Patchwork patterns based on curves are less common than those with straight seams, which are easy to cut and stitch. But although curves can be fiddly, they give more options and, with careful preparation at every stage from template making to cutting and pinning, they are straightforward to sew. Many people find curves easier to work by hand, but it is not difficult to machine stitch them. Sewing curved seams by hand 1Mark the seamlines and any registration marks, especially the centre point, on the wrong side of each piece. If the centre isn’t marked on the pattern, fold each piece in half, fingerpress it at the centre seamline, and use the crease as the centre mark. 2Place the smaller convex piece right sides together on the concave one, aligning…

This is a traditional method for making a quilt of mosaic shapes. The fabric pieces – hexagons, honeycombs, diamonds, and triangles, all of which have at least two bias edges – are tacked to pre-cut paper templates the size of the finished element. The technique is usually done by hand. The backing papers can be cut from virtually any heavy paper, but freezer paper can be ironed on quickly and is easy to remove. Basic paper-piecing technique 1Unless you are using pre-cut paper shapes, make a template. Draw around it to make the necessary number of shapes. Using paper scissors, carefully cut out the backing papers. 2Pin a plain-paper shape or iron a freezer-paper shape (paper side up) to the wrong side of the fabric. Leave enough space for seam…

Essential Information DIFFICULTY Easy SIZE 40 x 40cm (16 x 16in) TOOLS AND MATERIALS Rotary cutter Scissors Cutting mat Quilter’s ruler Pins Safety pins Large-eyed needle Threads to match your fabrics Contrasting embroidery thread Sewing machine Iron and ironing board 40cm (16in) square cushion pad FABRICS 43 x 43cm (17 x 17in) patterned front fabric 88 x 52cm (35 x 201⁄2 in) backing fabric 45 x 45cm (173⁄4 x 173⁄4 in) wadding SKILLS Hand quilting (see pp.152-153) SEAM ALLOWANCE 1cm (3⁄8in) seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise stated 1 For the cushion front, lay a 46 x 46cm (18 x 18in) square of backing fabric on a flat surface. Centre the wadding on top of the backing fabric, then centre the patterned front fabric on top of that. 2Starting from the…

Sewing on buttons 1Thread your needle with a double strand of thread. Secure the thread to the fabric where the button is to be positioned. Pass the needle up through one hole of the button, down through the other hole to the back. Do not pull the thread taut yet – first insert a cocktail stick (or match stick) under the stitch. Then pull the thread taut. Continue working back and forth through the holes of the button and the fabric, until at least five stitches have been worked. 2Remove the cocktail stick. Wrap the working thread several times around the thread under the button to form a shank. Secure the thread end with three small stitches at the back. Hand-stitched buttonholes 1Mark the desired finished length of the buttonhole…