Da ManCaliber 2019的目錄

GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Fifty years since mankind took its first daring steps on the moon, Omega celebrates the occasion with the Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary that has a very special connection to the astronauts and the legacy of that mission. Limited to only 6969 pieces, the watch features two eye-catching tributes to Apollo 11. Up front, the 11 o’clock index pays tribute to Apollo 11’s iconic mission number and there’s an engraved image of Buzz Aldrin climbing down the Lunar Module. On the back, there is the famous image of the footprint on the lunar surface. As a final touch, Neil Armstrong’s legendary quote is written in 18K Moonshine Gold—a new patent-pending alloy that has a paler hue than traditional yellow gold and offers…

INTRICATE DETAILS Louis Vuitton Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon One of the latest creations to come from the famed La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton perfectly showcases the maison’s expertise in design and its mastery of high complications. Named the Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, this watch comes in a 42mm case and is only 9.7mm thick. This is quite a remarkable feat considering that it houses not one but two of the most intricate complications: the flying tourbillon and minute repeater. Up front, the clear sapphire dial features a motif inspired by Louis Vuitton’s striped canvas from 1872 and a V for Vuitton that completes the flying tourbillon’s corner. All in all, the Voyager Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon is a most impressive display of mechanical ingenuity and exquisite design.…

SPECIFICATIONS CASE MATERIAL WHITE GOLD DIAL METEORITE AND BLUE RHODIUM-PLATED MOVEMENT MANUFACTURE HERMÈS H1837 ARCEAU L’HEURE DE LA LUNE ONLY WATCH For the latest edition of ONLY WATCH, a biennial auction of unique timepieces sold for the benefit of research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, Hermès presents the Arceau L’heure de la lune ONLY WATCH. Most notably, the timepiece offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of mother-of-pearl moon phases in both the northern and southern hemispheres. On top of that, the mobile counters displaying the time and date will also turn weightlessly to reveal the moon discs while maintaining their horizontal orientation. It’s worth noting that the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement powering the watch is only 4.2mm thick, providing a unique challenge to the maison. Ultimately,…

SPECIFICATIONS CASE MATERIAL CARBON MOVEMENT EL PRIMERO 9004 AUTOMATIC POWER RESERVE 50 HOURS DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 CARBON The DEFY El Primero 21 from Zenith is equipped with a revolutionary movement that marks the 21st century chapter of the El Primero’s enduring legacy. This year, the futuristic chronograph comes in its most outstanding iteration to date: the DEFY El Primero 21 Carbon. The highest frequency chronograph ever to be serially produced now comes in a carbon fiber case, with geometric facets that perfectly complement the voluminous architecture of the open-worked movement. More importantly, it’s not just the faceted case and round bezel that are forged from carbon, but also the crown and chronograph pushers. As such, it’s only natural that the movement and dial are made to match the material’s…

During the inauguration of the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore just a short while ago, the brand presented the world première of the new Ref. 5303R-010 Minute Repeater Tourbillon. Besides the impressive mechanisms contained in the watch, it is also notable for being the first time that a Patek Philippe watch had an open architecture that showcased its inner workings—in this case the minute repeater and tourbillon. Indeed, the brand follows a very traditional approach to mechanical watchmaking, where even the most impressive complications aren’t shown unless they had to. It is certainly a relatively uncommon practice these days. Fortunately, during the exhibition, DAMAN had the opportunity to chat with Philip Barat, Head of Watch Development at Patek Philippe, who provided new insight into the way the…

With Italian values and Swiss expertise as its basic foundations, Bvlgari has made its mark in 21st century watchmaking through five records set in just a few years. These five achievements all stem from the now-iconic Octo Finissimo line and each holds the tile of “thinnest in the world” in their respective categories. Bvlgari’s first world record was set by a Tourbillon watch launched in 2014, followed in 2016 by a Minute Repeater, then an Automatic movement in 2017 and the world’s thinnest Automatic Tourbillon model in 2018. Of course, 2019 also saw yet another impressive accomplishment by Bvlgari. At Baselworld 2019, the LVMH-owned Roman brand established a new world record for the thinnest ever chronograph movement with the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. As the cherry on top of…

Even today, when very few of us rely on our watches to tell the time, it still goes without saying that a watch needs to be accurate. And, of course, from a watchmaker’s point of view, accuracy was a matter of professional pride and the ultimate selling point. Speaking of selling points for watches, you may have heard, read or seen phrases and terms like “chronometer” or “the seal of Geneva” whenever the subject of watch accuracy comes up. These are some of hallmarks or certifications of quality that attest to the accuracy of a watch—sometimes along with other qualities such as craftsmanship and aesthetics or magnetic and water resistance. Like in many other fields, certifications or seals of quality are usually bestowed by independent testing bodies. Currently, the most…

You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation. It’s been said millions of times, but it’s definitely worth repeating: Patek Philippe has the most fitting slogan. And it doesn’t just stop at the idea of sons proudly wearing the watches of their fathers. See, Patek Philippe is “the last independent, family-owned Genevan manufacture,” with the Stern family at the helm of the company since 1932. So, perhaps it should come as no surprise that family and generational ties are also intertwined in Patek Philippe’s partners … which brings us to the story of the enduring, intergenerational friendship between Patek Philippe and Cortina Watch. CHAPTER ONE:PRELUDE TO A PARTNERSHIP Our story begins a long time ago in Geneva, Switzerland, with the arrival of…

GEM SETTING EXTRAORDINAIRE Hermès Arceau H déco Framed by a gold and diamond case, the Arceau H deco motif from Hermès is inspired by the eponymous tableware and appears as a distinctive decorative interpretation along with the dial center bearing a double H that twirls in step with the movement of the wrist. The Arceau watch, designed by Henri d’Origny back in 1978, highlights two crafts in a new creation imbued with the Art Deco spirit. Crafted from mother-of-pearl marquetry and set with diamonds, a dial with a moving heart reinterprets the H déco pattern of the porcelain tableware: a black and white motif inspired by the ironwork adorning the boutique on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. The watch is completed with a sapphire crystal, which is engraved with…

THE ULTIMATE ACCESSORY Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure As a natural heir to the onboard instruments developed by Zenith in the early years of aeronautics, the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure comes with the easily adjustable ratcheted crown of the original aviation instruments that inspired it. Issued with grained khaki green dials along with two fully-interchangeable strap options, this particular watch is also fitted with an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement. More importantly, this watch is completed with a titanium caseback that bears the Zenith Flying Instruments logo as a final salute to the pioneering spirit of the brand. All in all, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure combines an urban outlook with unparalleled versatility. A Patina Like No Other Tudor Black Bay Bronze The famous Black…

Record Breaker Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin This year, Audemars Piguet revealed the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. This ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar watch equipped with a complex movement re-engineered to integrate an elegant ultra-thin case, perfectly fitting under the sleeve of a shirt, and endowed with a refined dial design enhancing visibility. With a movement measuring a mere only 2.89mm in thickness and a case of just 6.3mm in height, this new model sets itself apart as the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar watch and marks yeat another technological milestone for Audemars Piguet. CLASSIC COMBINATION Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar At this year’s SIHH, Baume & Mercier released The Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar. On the dial, the counter at 9 o’clock for the…

Superb Quality Patek Philippe Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time Patek Philippe unveiled a new self-winding grand complication that adds a 24-hour alarm to its exclusive Travel Time display with two time zones. The Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time uses a system of transmission levers to harmonize the symmetry and height of the pushers and crowns and ensure they are in the middle of the case-band. The dial at this watch offers optimum readability and underscores its provenance in the aviators’ watch segment. As the quintessential watch for globetrotters, the new Ref. 5520P-001 Alarm Travel Time is the perfect expression of Patek Philippe’s tradition of continued innovation. ONE MORE RECORD Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic It seems that each new year brings yet another accomplishment for Bvlgari. At this year’s…

SPECIFICATIONS CASE MATERIAL STAINLESS STEEL MOVEMENT CALIBER 5 AUTOMATIC POWER RESERVE 38 HOURS AQUARACER GENTS GREEN DIAL Inspired by the mesmerizing blue and green shades of the ocean, TAG Heuer has created an Aquaracer model with a green dial that offers sporty functionality on any terrain. The dial’s sunray effect, in particular, creates an eye-catching light display that is sure to draw attention. Furthermore, this 43mm Aquaracer features horizontal lines running across the dial that resemble the wooden docks where sailboats are moored. Equipped with the six standard diving features of all models in the Aquaracer collection, this elegant, sophisticated and bold addition to the brand’s historic Aquaracer collection are a contemporary interpretation of the water-resistant timepieces the watchmaker has developed throughout its history. In short, this new modern Aquaracer…

Ever since Georges Kern took over as CEO of Breitling, the brand has undergone massive changes. When Kern arrived at Breitling, he discovered a company with a very broad range of products, targeted at a very narrow market. So, what did he do? He streamlined almost all of the collections. Of particular note, Kern reorganized the products into three focused pillars—air, land, and sea—designed to extend Breitling’s reach beyond the aviation crowd. Using those pillars as a guide, he established seven distinct collections: Aviator 8, Navitimer and Avenger for “Air,” Superocean Heritage and Superocean for “Sea,” and finally Premier and Chronomat for “Land.” Now, almost two years later, the outlook for Breitling is very much brighter. Earlier this year, I had the opportunity to sit down with him for an…

Chatting with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare is always an electrifying experience. Few people in the industry are as passionate and lively as him—except, perhaps, for Jean-Claude Biver, chairman of Zenith, Non-Executive President of LVMH’s Watch Division and the very man who brought Tornare into the fold of Zenith. So far, Tornare has shown that he is truly a disruptive element, but in the best possible way. This year, as Zenith celebrates half a century of the the legendary El Primero movement, Tornare has further opened the brand to the world. Quite literally, in fact, through the Le Monde Étoilé experience where the brand’s manufacture is opened to the public and with the start of the A Star Through Time experience which made its debut in Singapore back in August 2019…

Earlier this year—in January, to be exact—all eyes focused on Geneva for the 29th edition of Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). As a melting pot of watch brands, this is where the latest trends in technical watchmaking are revealed, as the exhibitors unveil their latest creations. It is also where the people who are shaping the watch industry today and tomorrow meet. Speaking of which, the watch industry has been confronted with an important paradigm shift in recent years. It began with structural change as more and more brands transformed their distribution and increasingly looked at e-commerce. Many have also adopted new channels of communication and have started looking more intently at their customers’ different buying habits. And more than anything, they have focused on their most important…

Each year, Cartier delights its fans and clientele with another new collection of stunning timepieces. But what really has connoisseurs and serious collectors waiting with anticipation is the Cartier Privé—a capsule collection, if you will, each celebrating one of the maison’s famous silhouettes with intricate reinterpretations of iconic models. In 2015, Cartier reacquainted the world with the Crash watch; in 2017 it shone a new light on the Tank Cintrée. Now, it is the year of the Tonneau. GENESIS OF THE BARREL The word “tonneau” is French for “barrel.” It’s not exactly something that people would associate with fine watches, but it was quite fitting. Introduced in 1906—following the debut of the Santos watch in 1904—Cartier’s Tonneau watch features a dial that could only be described as being “on the…

Golden Glow Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori For 2019, Bvlgari launched a brand-new collection called Serpenti Seduttori. As the current reimagination of the cult Serpenti watch, this new collection features an unprecedented design that represents a bold new chapter for the world of Serpenti timepieces with its iconic drop-shaped watch head, a motif that comes from the Serpenti Tubogas watch. Speaking of which, the shape of the case and stylized hexagonal bracelet links are perfectly integrated and emphasize a new interpretation of the theme, celebrating the eternal renewal of the icon that was “born to be gold.” On top of that, it is crowned in cabochon-cut gemstones in a nod to Bvlgari’s DNA as a true Roman jeweler. The result? The new Serpenti Seduttori literally flows on the wrist and radiates an…

CLASSICALLY ENCHANTING Baume & Mercier Classima 10326 There’s something extra special about classic, elegant dress watches that are subtle in its visual appeal. Baume & Mercier certainly knows how to get it right as exemplified by the new Classima model with a mother-of-pearl dial. On this luminous canvas the watch displays eight diamond markers, classic Roman numerals, a date window at 3 o’clock and rhodium plated hands. The overall effect is uncluttered yet detailed, subtle yet rich. A sturdy metal bracelet that matches the case completes this classic presentation of elegant Swiss watchmaking. A Celebration of Art Frederique Constant Art Déco Oval For its eye-catching Art Déco collection, Frederique Constant looked at the lavish social parties of the 1920s for inspiration. The result is a range of timepieces that combine…

POWERFUL PARTNERSHIP Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Norton Edition Breitling celebrated its partnership with British motorcycle company Norton—known worldwide for its high-performance motorcycles—with the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Norton Edition. As a distinctive interpretation of the Premier collection that makes a bold statement, the watch is completed with a “Norton” logo, which is engraved on a plate on the left side of the case. The transparent case-back also features a printed Norton motorcycle and logo. Furthermore, the elegant black dial with golden numerals and hour and minute hands at this watch offers an intriguing contrast to the brown vintage raw-leather strap that will surely appeal both to watch enthusiasts and motorcyclists alike. The Classic Touch Patek Philippe Ref. 5172G-001C Patek Philippe Ref. 5170—the first chronograph of classic architecture for…

ELEGANT DETAILS Hermès Arceau Heure de la Lune Hermès presented the Arceau Heure de la Lune at this year’s SIHH and carries us up towards the satellite orbiting our Earth. On the dial, whether the meteorite or the aventurine one, the brand injected two white mother-of-pearl discs that is sure to capture attention. On the first disc, it displays the hours and minutes, while the second one shows the date using blued hands. One thing that makes this watch even more special is the fact that both discs rotate around a central axis once in 59 days, which corresponds to two complete moon phases. With these two discs floating above the two depictions of the moon and show the satellite’s phases in real time, Hermès successfully expands its universe one…

Ultimate Mechanics Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 42mm Presented at Baselworld 2019, the new Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 42mm from Hublot is the first entry in the collection with a barrel-shaped case that’s made of carbon-fiber. Fitted for the first time with the “One-Click” fastening system, which allows the strap to be changed easily and quickly, the watch is completed with the HUB6020 movement that reveals an hours and minutes dial at 3 o’clock, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and an indicator for the 5-day power reserve at 8 o’clock. As a very well structured and also technical watch, Hublot’s new Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon 42mm—limited to only 100 pieces—shows a heightened drive for innovation and excellence in design. GROUNDBREAKING DESIGN TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T…

SPECIFICATIONS CASE MATERIAL STAINLESS STEEL MOVEMENT BREITLING MANUFACTURE CALIBRE 01 POWER RESERVE 70 HOURS AVIATOR 8 MOSQUITO This year, Breitling created a watch to honor the de Havilland DH.98 Mosquito, a British aircraft whose lightweight wooden construction made it one of the fastest planes in the skies in the early 1940s. Titled the Breitling Aviator 8 Mosquito, this watch wears its dual design influences proudly: It recalls the design values of the onboard instruments designed by Breitling’s Huit Aviation Department and those of the Ref. 765 AVI—the Co-Pilot—whose bold look, rotating bezel and impressive legibility with oversized Arabic numerals made it a favorite among aviators. Up front on the dial, its striking red and orange accents recall the roundels and markings featured on the fuselage of the de Havilland Mosquito…

One of the most defining moments in the history of Switzerland’s watch industry was the quartz crisis in the ’70s. But while many manufacturers collapsed, others would rise to the challenge and not only survive, but thrive. IWC Schaffhausen did just that, with one of the most defining moments in its survival story being the brand’s expansion to the Middle East. And the most defining element of this story is Hannes A. Pantli. Saying that he saved the company during its hour of need is certainly no exaggeration. While he was instrumental in ensuring that IWC would weather the quartz crisis that shook Switzerland’s watch industry to its core, he also plays a huge part in safeguarding the brand’s legacy—and he does so from the outside, as a collector. In…

The J12 watch from Chanel was born out of a desire. The story began when Jacques Helleu, artistic director of the house, decided to create a watch especially for himself. While drafting his first pencil lines, Helleu imagined it as timeless, sporty and all black. His inspiration came from the two worlds he loved most; automobiles and sailing. He greatly admired the chassis lines of racing cars and, above all, the regal silhouettes of the America’s Cup racing class, the J12—hence the name of the watch. Long story short, the year 2000 became a milestone in Chanel’s watchmaking history with the launch of the J12 collection. As the first Chanel sport watch, the J12 revolutionized the world of watchmaking as it comes in black ceramic. Not only that, it was…

TUDOR introduced its first diving watch in 1954. It proved to be a timely development as it allowed the brand to provide the burgeoning community of professional scuba divers with cutting-edge, reliable and robust underwater timekeeping instruments that came at an accessible price. Unsurprisingly, it didn’t take long for naval forces—some of the world’s biggest navies, in fact—to take note of this as well. Soon, TUDOR found itself supplying diving watches for frogmen and combat divers serving in some of the most powerful militaries in the world. These are some of the most intriguing tales of TUDOR watches relied on by some of the most storied armed mariners… MARINE NATIONALE The French Navy is one of the world’s oldest naval forces, with a proud history stretching all the way back…

Flower Power Jacob & Co. Fleurs de Jardin Inspired by the sophisticated mechanism of the Astronomia Solar, the Fleurs de Jardin—which was in development for more than a year—from Jacob & Co. makes high watchmaking colorful and feminine. The watch itself comes with 11 brilliant flowers made up of kite-shaped amethysts, pink and icy blue sapphires, tsavorites, citrines, orange garnets and rubies that rotate counter-clockwise around a mother-of-pearl dial once every ten minutes. Furthermore, a flying tourbillon cage rotates on itself once every sixty seconds, as does the rose gold and blue lacquered globe. Ultimately, the Fleurs de Jardin is the perfect combination of radiant aesthetics and refined construction. HOROLOGICAL EXPLORATION MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT MB&F presented the Legacy Machine FlyingT, the first of the brand’s three-dimensional horological art pieces…

For quite some time now, Indonesia has grown into an important market for fine watches. More importantly, it is a market that continues to mature. And at the forefront of this growing appreciation stands The Time Place. The journey of The Time Place began in 1999 with a single boutique in Plaza Senayan, Jakarta. Today, it is renowned as the country’s leading retailer of luxury timepieces. And 2019 also marks The Time Place’s 20th anniversary. To commemorate this momentous milestone—and as testament to its reputation in the watch industry—four distinguished watch brands has prepared special edition watches with Indonesia as the theme or design element. One of them is none other than Chopard, with an exclusive iteration of the L.U.C Perpetual Twin bearing a special tribute to the Indonesian archipelago.…