AFARNovember - December 2015的目錄

1 GUY STYLE Set in a former nightclub known as the Gentleman, Centreville traffics in, appropriately, men’s clothing: minimalist streetwear from Belgian label Arternative, plus accoutrements from international indie brands, like canvas bicycle bags from Japan’s Nanamica. 36 Rue des Chartreux 2 NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Freshly minted Diito Dansaert is just the design store you’d expect from its founders, two architects and an interior designer. You’ll find pieces from the furniture world’s elite: Tom Dixon’s pendant lamps, Carl Hansen’s wishbone chairs, plus a smattering of vintage. 19 Rue des Chartreux 3 FROM THE STUDIO A true area pioneer, Maison d’Art Actuel des Chartreux established itself here in 1986 and now offers six residencies to emerging visual artists, most of them Brussels based. Wander through the warehouse-like space, which…

With a prime spot in Cabarita, a sleepy surfer enclave 40 minutes north of Byron Bay, the Halcyon House was destined to be dressed in white and blue. “I wanted it to remind me of the ocean,” says interior designer Anna Spiro. A wave of aquamarines, navys, and teals is found throughout the 21-room hotel and in the airy restaurant, Paper Daisy. Spiro used blue-and-white-striped rattan chairs, textured cushions, and vintage pieces to liven up the simple space. “The patterns pop and create a relaxed beach vibe, which is what the hotel is all about.” From $392. halcyonhouse.com.au UNCANNY REFLECTION Designer Anna Spiro picked up this fireplace mantel at Massachusetts’ Brimfield Antique Show. “I had a vision that it would look fabulous as a mirror,” she says. “Now it’s one…

HER ROOTS For her forward-thinking designs, Shamshiri often looks back, to relics and to her Iranian heritage. “The 5,000-year-old city of Yazd has buildings made from mud as well as the ancient wind catchers of Dowlatabad Garden,” she says. The structures recirculate air without power, an early form of air conditioning. “We have no idea how they thought of it,” she marvels. “As we’re searching for sustainable ways of living, it’s important to consider architectural feats from the past.” Shamshiri’s next trip is to India, as she’s felt inspired from afar by the brilliant urban design of Chandigarh. “The city is changing so much, and I want to see it now,” she says. Her other must-see destination: Jaipur’s Jantar Mantar, an astronomical observatory that was built almost 300 years ago.…

FOR 165 YEARS, Tadich Grill in San Francisco’s financial district has operated at the same rhythm. Salmon sizzles under the broiler, white-jacketed bartenders stir and shake lunch-hour martinis, and servers hurry by with bowls of the restaurant’s famous cioppino, a tomato-wine stew brimming with clams, mussels, shrimp, whitefish, and Dungeness crab. With that much history under its belt, the cioppino is, understandably, delicious. The dish is also ubiquitous in San Francisco, having become as clichéd as Fisherman’s Wharf, where nearly every eatery hawks a version. For the first five years I lived here, I avoided it entirely. But when I heard that Tadich was opening a second location in Washington, D.C., I realized it was time to discover cioppino before East Coasters beat me to it. I started by meeting…

2 RITZ-CARLTON San Francisco In renovating the interior of this landmark hotel, designers drew inspiration from both the San Francisco Bay and couture fashion. The rooms’ color schemes take cues from the steely blue and grays of the city’s fog, and the furnishings, including tweed fabric chairs, are a nod to men’s tailoring. While the hotel’s look has changed, its commitment to charities hasn’t wavered. The staff donates unclaimed clothing from the lost and found to the Salvation Army, and every year sends 2,000 pounds of leftover soap to Clean the World, which recycles and distributes it to disadvantaged people around the world to prevent hygienerelated illnesses. From $399. ritzcarlton.com 3 SIX SENSES Douro Valley, Portugal The ecofriendly Six Senses brand debuted its first European property in July on 20…

1 THE READ EDWIDGE DANTICAT Breath, Eyes, Memory, Danticat’s gripping first novel, traces Haiti’s legacy of violence, genocide, and beauty. It is as relevant today as it was when it was published in 1994 2 THE SCULPTURE LAURENT VALÈRE If you only see one of the Valère sculptures that dot Martinique, make it the Anse Cafard Slave Memorial, the region’s most poignant expression of the Caribbean slave era. 3 THE ALBUM ETIENNE CHARLES On Creole Soul, jazz trumpeter Etienne Charles merges his Caribbean roots with his love for New Orleans jazz, creating a bright, breezy sound that’s perfect for a beach getaway. 4 THE COMEDY PAUL KEENS-DOUGLAS For 40 years, Keens-Douglas, a Trinidad native, has found humor in the everyday. He still draws crowds to his annual Talk Tent show…

1 IF YOU VISIT ONLY ONE ISLAND “Curaçao is the most LGBTfriendly island—and it has been for years. The island is part of the Dutch Caribbean: Imagine a slice of Amsterdam, a place where holding hands with your S.O. won’t invite danger. I like to stay in the Baoase Luxury Resort’s master villa, which comes with its own cave pool.” 2 WHERE TO CATCH A DRAG SHOW “The Santurce Arts District in San Juan is the center of LGBT nightlife on Puerto Rico. Scandalo is a popular gay dance club that has the best drag shows on the island. For a $5 cover, you’ll see the island’s top performers, often alumni of RuPaul’s Drag Race.” 3 IF YOU WANT A LITTLE LUXURY “Belmond La Samanna is St. Martin’s finest resort.…

Gray & Co. Gray exclusively organizes custom trips. “We emphasize choice and flexibility,” she says. “It’s not just the same formula with different people.” During a tour in Chile, for example, you might cycle around the conical volcanoes in northern Patagonia, bike to vineyards for wine tastings, and sample grilled lamb at a traditional asado. From $1,200 per person, per day. 416-998-4082, grayandco.ca Backroads A 10-day itinerary in Vietnam and Cambodia combines cycling and riverboat cruising as you travel along the Mekong River. Between visits to Angkor Wat and artisans’ workshops, you’ll pedal through an ecological reserve and past rice fields and mangrove forests. From $6,398. 800-462-2848, backroads.com Trek Travel A new Portugal itinerary is part of One, a tour series that lets you unwind at a single high-end property…

BARTOLOMÉ ISLAND “In 1984, my grandfather from Lima had one of the best trips of his life in the Galápagos. He had such a great time, he wanted to go back with his extended family. This July, he rented a boat, and 16 of us, including my cousins, siblings, my fiancée, and me, navigated the islands for a week with a crew of eight.” “Almost everything here is natural except for a few villages with some B&Bs and bars, the occasional viewing station, and a couple of man-made conservation sites that are used for breeding tortoises. What struck me most is how few people you encounter while you’re here. The boats are timed on really rigid schedules, so you feel totally isolated. I think we crossed paths with one other…

Fact Sheet Location Southwest China, near Tibet Flight Time 14 hours from SFO Population 9 million Sichuan’s 2,331-year-old capital has never had more experiences worth flying for, and now that United offers direct flights from San Francisco, they’ve never been simpler to reach. Legend has it that a turtle mapped Chengdu’s borders. Unlikely, sure, but it reflects the city’s pace. People’s Park is filled with tai chi practitioners and badminton players. And at 1,000-year-old Qingyang Temple, friends laze for hours in the open-air teahouse. To see the truly old part of town, visit the Jinsha archaeological site. There, scientists are unearthing gold and jade artifacts that date as far back as the 7th century, many of which are displayed at the site’s museum. Conversely, the Wide and Narrow Alleys, two…

This was my first trip to Dubai to research our upcoming AFAR Experiences event, and it felt like drinking from a fire hose. To focus my time, I set out to explore the classic side of this nation so rich in extremes. I joined Platinum Heritage’s desert safari, which transported me across a sea of sand to a Bedouin camp. There I sipped date juice while a falcon swooped close to our heads. I took an abra (water taxi) to the old town of Bur Dubai, where merchants sell aromatic spices and impossibly soft pashminas in the souks, and locals cool off with icy lemon sorbet. I flew high above the Persian Gulf on a seaplane tour that passed over the man-made islands known as The Palm and The World…

GO EAST The members of the AFAR Travel Advisory Council have created itineraries that lead travelers from Dubai to some of the worldÕs most iconic destinationsÑ from Buddhist shrines to blissful beaches. AFAR EXPERIENCES IS HEADED TO DUBAI FROM FEBRUARY 4 TO 7 for four days of unparalleled insider access in this dazzling destination. From there, itÕs easy with Emirates Airline to continue east to explore the Indian Ocean and Asia. 1 DREAMS BEGIN IN DUBAI Whether you are headed to Dubai for AFAR Experiences in February or any other time, you’ll find the world at your doorstep once you arrive. In fact, one-third of the worldÕs population lives within four hours of the Emirate and two-thirds are less than eight hours away. For any traveler who has been putting…

MYTH #5 HURRICANE SEASON IS OFF-LIMITS. THE CARIBBEAN IS A BIG REGION, WHICH MEANS THE ODDS OF BAD WEATHER HITTING YOUR ISLAND DURING HURRICANE SEASON (JUNE–NOVEMBER) ARE LOW. KEEP TO THE SOUTH—ARUBA, BONAIRE, CURAçAO, BARBADOS, AND TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO TYPICALLY SEE FEWER STORMS. TRAVELING BY CRUISE IS ANOTHER OPTION ASSHIPS CAN REROUTE TO AVOID STORMS. AND INVEST IN TRAVEL INSURANCE THAT COVERS STORM–RELATED CANCELLATIONS. 1 MAKE PILGRIMAGES FOR FOOD Nearly every dish served at Belle Mont Farm, an AFAR Collection hotel on St. Kitts, is made from produce grown on the organic farm. The hotel will soon gain a farmers’ market and a restaurant from New York-based chef Dan Barber. From $625. bellemontfarm.com 2 CRAVE CULTURE At Anguilla’s newly renovated Malliouhana, terraces are wide and walls are painted bright blue—the…

AS HAITI CONTINUES its post-2010 earthquake reconstruction efforts, it’s witnessing a small tourism boom. Leading the way are companies like Marriott, which opened a hotel in Port-au-Prince in March, and G Adventures, which rolled out a 10-day tour this year. Jeff Russill, the outfitter’s vice president of innovation, recently spent 12 days exploring the country’s potential as an adventure travel destination. He visited Citadelle Laferrière, a UNESCOdesignated mountaintop fortress, and met kids at the grassroots Art Creation Foundation for Children, which teaches at-risk youth traditional arts. “With a job like mine you can get jaded,” he says, “but after a few days in Haiti, it dawned on me that it was the best travel experience I’d had in years.” $2,499. gadventures.com Find out where to eat, stay, and learn at…

WE HAVE ALL SEEN EXAMPLES of how technology is changing travel: Mobile maps make it easier to find your way, translation apps help you understand the locals, and of course there are myriad ways to book plane tickets, hotels, apartments, taxis, restaurants, and tours. As technology has improved, people have been clamoring for good content. In the world of travel, this includes beautiful photos and great insights into the distinctive aspects of a destination. In this context, I’m pleased to present AFAR’s new Travel Guide app for the iPhone. This app features guides to more than 100 cities and countries around the world, curated by AFAR’s editors and local experts. Thanks to our design team, led by Elizabeth Spiridakis Olson, and our software development team, particularly iOS engineer Kevin Favro,…

“In addition to grapes, La Rioja is known for its olives, and Galería Martínez Glera in Logroño sells artisanal soaps and lotions made from both.” HANDSPUN SOUVENIRS “In Ezcaray, the Valgañón family has produced fine alpaca, cashmere, and mohair fabrics since 1930. The wools are combed with thistles, which makes them extra fine. At their shop, Mantas Ezcaray, you’ll find a wide array of baby blankets and scarves. I don’t know if I’ve ever felt anything softer or warmer.” “During the holidays, it’s hard to resist Mazapanes de Soto, a treat made from sweetened almond paste that’s enjoyed at family gatherings.” A FEAST BY THE FAMILY “Two-Michelin-star El Portal de Echaurren serves modern dishes such as prawn carpaccio with tomato tartare. The restaurant shares a kitchen with Echaurren, where the…

Located in Ubud, the new Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve hotel, is a graceful reflection of its surroundings, a landscape of rice paddies and the sleepy Ayung River. Winding pathways lead to tropical gardens, intimate temples, and a series of low-slung suites and sprawling pool villas that face the terraced hills. And, like all Reserve hotels, Mandapa places a premium on relaxation: Opt for a padi massage—a Balinese technique that involves rice poultices and herbs—in the spa or do sun salutations in the yoga studio that looks out on the river. From $570. mandapareserve.com…

CHAMPAGNE OF CHOICE Buy a case of Krug’s Grande Cuvée, which is creamy, spicy, and filled with apple aromas. Give a bottle to colleagues, open one for guests, and save the rest for later, as it ages well. krug.com, $150 per bottle 1. FOR FOOD OBSESSIVES Chef Russell Moore transformed Oakland’s food scene with his wood-fired fare. In This Is Camino ($35), he shares his story and recipes. 2. COLOR ME PRETTY The Fantastic Cities coloring book ($15) contains mandalalike grids of busy Rio favelas and the New York skyline. 3. OPEN HOUSES Jutaku ($25) surveys sly Japanese architecture, from fishtanklike apartments in Tokyo to remote barns in Hokkaido that are anything but humble. 4. ONE WILD READ If anything could inspire someone to pick up surfing, it’s Barbarian Days…

Rosewood Mayakoba Riviera Maya, Mexico Casa de las Olas Tulum, Mexico Las Alcobas Mexico City, Mexico Belmond Peru Cusco, Lima, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley Galley Bay Resort & Spa St. JohnÕs, Antigua The Reefs Resort and Club Southampton, Bermuda Le Guanahani St. BarthŽlemy, French West Indies Belle Mont Farm on Kittitian Hill St. Kitts Grace Bay Club Turks and Caicos Dorado Beach, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve Dorado, Puerto Rico Aqua Wellness Resort Tola, Nicaragua Mandarin Oriental, Miami Miami, Florida Vero Beach Hotel & Spa Vero Beach, Florida XV Beacon Boston, Massachusetts Park Hyatt New York New York, New York Loews Regency Hotel New York, New York Langham Place, New York, Fifth Avenue New York, New York Freehand Chicago Chicago, Illinois The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas Las Vegas, Nevada The…

1 PETIT ST. VINCENT DIVE LIKE JACQUES COUSTEAU The Jean-Michel Cousteau Caribbean Diving center—run by Jacques Cousteau’s son— opened last November as part of the remote Petit St. Vincent resort. The island offers access to some of the Caribbean’s least trafficked dive sites—and you never know when Jean-Michel might drop in to offer an impromptu ecology lesson. $170. petitstvincent.com 2 BARBADOS CATCH A CARIBBEAN WAVE Barbados sits farther out in the Atlantic than the rest of the islands, which means experienced surfers can catch barreling waves fresh off an ocean journey at Soup Bowl, on the island’s east coast. Newbies can find their footing at Boosy’s Surf School, which offers classes and rentals in a protected cove in Freights Bay. $50. boosyssurfschool.com 3 SABA TAKE A (VERY SCENIC) HIKE long-dormant…

FOR TRAVELERS whose reggae experience begins and ends with Bob Marley’s Legend, Jamaica’s music landscape may be the island’s biggest surprise. “It’s never really been a place to hear live bands,” says Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records, the label that launched Marley and others. “Most of the music on albums was created in studios, with session players. If you want to be around music, you go to the sound systems.” Imagine a gathering of multiple DJs spinning everything from reggae and ska to dancehall, music booming from an improvised wall of speakers in a borrowed church hall or parking lot. Young Jamaicans dance, sweaty Red Stripes in hand, and at any moment, a sound clash—the DJ equivalent of a dance-off— could erupt. To find one in touristy Montego Bay,…

Get our complete guide to Cuba’s art scene at afar.com/culturalcuba MOVIES ARE BIG IN CUBA. They’re also government-endorsed: In 1959, Fidel Castro passed a law that identified film as “the most powerful and provocative form of artistic expression” and founded a national institute to nurture budding talent. Since then, local filmmakers have made a variety of internationally recognized movies, some with a Communist point of view and some without. And, with travel to Cuba opening up, more Americans can enjoy the island’s newest crop. Catch a gritty indie film at the new Fábrica de Arte Cubano, an oil factory turned art space in Havana that screens films as part of its broad focus on local artists (fabricadeartecubano.com). Or go classic with a visit to Cine Yara, Havana’s famous 1,650-seat cinema,…

STAY La Sommita Hotel Located in the hilltop town of Ostuni, this small boutique hotel has stunning views of the valley and coast below and a wonderful aperitiftasting menu. From $173. lasommita.it Masseria Torre Maizza, Masseria Torre Coccaro The sister resorts near Monopoli feature lovely spas, broad terraces for a sunset aperitif, fortified towers from the 15th century surrounded by olive groves, and restaurants on the beach. From $321. masseriatorremaizza.com masseriatorrecoccaro.com DINE L’Altro Baffo, Otranto Try the sea urchin carbonara and squid in primitivo sauce in an elegant, quiet, romantic setting. If you’re lucky, the waiter will offer you the laurel and fennel digestivi at the end of your meal. laltrobaffo.com Pescheria 2 Mari, Savelletri Be sure to order a bottle of white Sale wine to accompany the seafood crudo…

WHERE TO GO RIGHT NOW To get a fresh look at the world, it helps to have an expert guiding the way. Enter AFAR Journeys, a collection of trips organized by our welltraveled advisors. For our first destination, Switzerland, they have created 3- to 10-day excursions that range from touring the country’s sweetsfilled Christmas markets to tracing James Bond’s Goldfinger journey in an Aston Martin. And all trips are customizable, whether you want to add a day of cheese-tasting or get a peek at a famous watchmaker’s studio. From $1,000 per day, afar.com/journeys See Zurich’s Grossmünster church through a local’s eyes on AFAR Journeys’ “Art-to-Art” tour of Swiss masterpieces.…