Wildernessの July 2020 の目次

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AFTER THREE DAYS hiking the Gillespie Pass Circuit in Mt Aspiring National Park, my friend Kirstin and I felt confident and ready to tackle the final stretch of the track. From Siberia Hut, other trampers were taking flights or jet boats back to Makarora, but we opted to set off early and walk out through the Wilkin Valley. Kirstin is athletic and tall. With her long legs she covers ground quickly. I took my time, stopping to spot rock wren and kakariki flitting through the trees. Before long, Kirstin had disappeared ahead of me. I assumed she would wait for me where the track diverged. To the right was the Wilkin River and across it, Kerin Forks Hut. To the left, the track continued down the river to Makarora. When…

Mt Pirongia is a bittersweet milestone for Te Araroa Trail walkers. Pahautea Hut, near the mountain’s summit, is the first hut southbound thru-hikers encounter on their journey to Bluff, though its comfort is short-lived. From its front steps, Hihikiwi Track hurls walkers down Pirongia’s southern slopes over 6.4km of mud, root ladders and bogs – a vengeful welcome back for those who dared defy nature with a night indoors. The walk – or squelch – takes up to six hours, and trampers emerge exhausted and caked in earth – the memories of last night’s bunk buried deep beneath rising cortisol levels. But then, a little ways down Kaimango Road, fortune favours the battered, bruised and brave. On a 2.5km stretch of the gravel country road, there lives a network of…

PERHAPS THE MOST rewarding way to approach Mt Patriarch is on the Chummies Track, up past John Reid Hut, on to the southern end of the Arthur Range. Almost directly above John Reid Hut, on Pt1463, is a flat tussocky area well suited to pitching a tent. Equipped with a resident weka, but no water, this spot is superb for both expansive sunsets and sunrises. And, once on the ridge, much of the hard grind to reach Mt Patriarch (1701m) lies behind. When our party of four visited the mountain, to reduce the amount of water we had to carry to the campsite, we, and the John Reid Hut weka, enjoyed dinner at the hut before climbing the final 120m to the tops. Once on the ridge, it’s only a…

TIME SPENT working in a pharmacy meant my mum wouldn’t let me go bush without stocking me out like a Red Cross medic. Without fail, I would argue each item’s necessity and weight, and no doubt sneak a few things back when she wasn’t looking. But despite my ‘know-it-all’ packing tantrums, you can bet your life I was the most stocked kid on Duke of Ed expeditions, dishing out bandaids, painkillers and blister plasters to those in need. Long story short, when you’re packing your first aid kit, don’t be like Matt – be like Matt’s mum, and make sure you’re prepared for anything. Medical tape: Perhaps the most versatile tool in your kit, medical tape can be used to quiet blisters, ease strains and reinforce bandaids – it’s also…

FABRIC Fleece jackets are made from polyester fabric and should be anti-pilling. ZIPS The front zips should flow freely and be housed in a ‘garage’ when done up. A storm flap running behind the zip will help block wind and prevent heat loss. Zippered handwarmer pockets should ensure the zip does not rub against hands. HEMS Drawcord hems are used to seal in warmth on cold days. FIT A loose fit will allow you to wear layers underneath. A tighter-fitting fleece is used as a base or mid-layer. POCKETS Two handwarmer pockets are normal. Some jackets may also have a Napoleon chest pocket. WEIGHT Heavier-weight fleeces are thicker and warmer and suited to very cold conditions. Lighter fleeces are better as a next-to-skin layer or as a lightweight shoulder-season garment…

IN HIS last autobiography, Sir Edmund Hillary wrote of fellow mountaineer Earle Riddiford: ‘I’d never share a rope with him’. It’s perhaps the most damning thing one climber can say about another and the slur prompted Riddiford’s children, documentary maker Richard and his sister Anna, to ask: ‘What do you do when the man on the $5 note disparages your father?’ Their film, Before Everest, traces the origins of the slur to divisions that developed during New Zealand’s first expedition to the Himalayas in 1951 which Riddiford organised and invited Hillary to join. You started making the film in 2000. Why did it take so long to finish? It was difficult because we didn’t want it to come across as a carping film about Hillary. We wanted it to be…

WALKERS PUT OUT BY PAPAROA HUT POPULARITY Paparoa Track bookings have rekindled frustrations for walkers unable to book the Moonlight Tops Hut. Fewer than 30 dates between October 1 and April 30 have bunks available in the popular hut, which sits on the tops of the Paparoa Range. November is completely booked out. Both the Ces Clark and Pororari huts – which sit on either side of Moonlight Tops Hut – have plenty of space. The track encountered the same concerns last year, when five months before it opened, Moonlight Tops Hut was 99.5 per cent full for the season, while Pororari Hut showed nearly 100 nights of availability. The discrepancy in the popularity of the huts is because most mountain bikers choose to ride the track in two days,…

AS YOU APPROACH the bush-line, the trees grow progressively more stunted, cowed by the combined effects of altitude and the punishing weather. Trees, possibly hundreds of years old, have canopies barely taller than the average tramper. Lichen cloaks their trunks, and wispy moss too, plus a range of liverworts and filmy ferns to create a miniature ecosystem in itself. Mist swirls through the trees, rendering those farthest away a ghostly grey, while the closer ones are draped in vibrant green moss. It’s almost like a colour photograph has been superimposed on a monochrome one, such is the colour-stripping qualities of mist in a high altitude forest. Even the most tops-addicted tramper can admit there is a singular beauty to stunted silver beech forest growing just below the limits of its…

TRAVERS PEAK has been a day trip destination of mine for many years – so much so, that my latest outing here was the ninth time I have climbed it. I have also traversed it on a few occasions when heading deeper into the reserve to explore other peaks, ridges and valleys. It is such a centrally placed peak that it lends itself well to doing longer trips after first passing over the summit. The latest outing was strictly a cruise to the top to take in the grand panorama. Beginning at Deer Valley car park (which is also a spot for an overnight camp), we crossed the highway and headed along Foleys Track which climbs moderately at first through beautiful beech forest over terraces to the toe of the…

I can’t remember the last time I put on a pack and felt challenged. I don’t mean challenged in the way a steep incline will have me puffing, sweating, and stopping every few minutes to catch my breath and wipe my brow. With my fitness, that happens often. I mean a challenge that grabs me by the shoulders and gives me a bone-rattling shake. A climb of 2319m Single Cone – my first summit over 2000m – proved to be it. The spring morning was beautiful over Lake Wakatipu, and I awoke feeling nervous. From Queenstown, The Remarkables’ jagged peaks appear impossibly steep – almost 2D – and with zero climbing experience, I was about to climb the highest point on the range. The opportunity was once in a lifetime…

THE DEPARTMENT of Conservation uses orange triangles to mark track direction. If you haven’t seen one for a while, take a moment to consider why. Sometimes they are spaced further apart, and tracks that have been rerouted around slips or windfall may not be marked. Sometimes the marker drops off, or the tree it is on falls over. But losing sight of the orange markers also means you may have inadvertently strayed off the path. YOU’RE OFF TRACK, NOW WHAT? If you haven’t seen a marker for a while, look around. Is there an obvious track? Check the map. What other clues do you have? Are you still beside the river you are following? If you are confident you are on the track, carry on looking for markers and other…

LAST YEAR, I needed to buy my first tent. I understood little about modern tents but knew there was an enormous selection. How would I choose the right one? I already knew why I wanted a tent. I wanted the freedom to go into the wilderness on my own (mainly the Tararua Range) without being restricted to using huts. And I wanted a shelter that would cope with nasty surprises; I have seen a lovely summer day transform into a misty gale with sleet and minimal visibility in just a few minutes while on the way to Kime Hut. I listed what was most important to me in a tent. I wanted a one-person shelter that offered durability, minimal weight, and optimal living space, at an affordable price. Now I…

CAPACITY Ranging from day pack-sized with just enough to carry your essentials for a day of skiing or a summit push, to multi-day-sized packs with the capacity to carry everything you need for serious alpine endeavours. FABRIC The main considerations are weight and abrasion resistance. It’s common to see DWR-coated fabrics, usually in the 210-600 Denier range. Look for higher-denier fabrics in areas such as the base and at tool attachment points. HARNESS Weight saving is the name of the game with alpine packs, so expect harnesses to have minimal, or compressed padding. Air-flow-style harnesses aren’t necessary as you’ll be wearing more clothing. HIPBELT A removable, or fold-away, hipbelt will allow easy access to your climbing harness. REMOVABLE FEATURES Many alpine packs have removable items, such as a foam bivy…

GOOD ADVICE Earlier this year I was considering walking an upper South Island tramp. Settling on the St James Walkway, I searched the Internet for likely access onto the tops from the valleys. Discovering mention of a route onto the Libretto Range from Boyle Flats Hut, a plan started to take shape. Then, glancing out the window and seeing the postie, I took a break from the computer and wandered to the mailbox. There was the February issue of Wilderness. As is my habit when the magazine arrives, I made a cuppa and settled down to read. And there it was! Pat Barrett’s description of Mt Faust, complete with confirmation of the route from Boyle Flats and exit to the car park. Plan complete. The weather delivered. We had a…

A SEARCH and rescue professional who was in the helicopter that located two trampers lost in Kahurangi National Park in late May said the pair did plenty right during their 19-day ordeal. Dion Reynolds and Jessica O’Connor spent 13 days without food after becoming lost on a tramping trip on the western side of the park. The pair had intended to complete a loop in the Anatori River area but became hopelessly lost and ended up in the adjacent Frazer Stream. Hamish Pirie, who has around 20 years’ experience in search and rescue, was in the helicopter that found them. “They had water, they had good warm gear, they had a reasonably good camp set up, and they had a fire so they had the morale that gives you,” he…

THE ROCK pillar of the Te Whara summit rises a near-vertical 476m above the sea. From this sheer vantage point, you get some of the best coastal views in Northland. The Te Whara Track, located in the Bream Head Reserve near Whangarei, is a challenging day walk that follows a 700-year old Māori trail past remnants of Second World War paraphernalia, through thick coastal forest. As a one-way track, it’s easiest to tackle this walk with two vehicles, so you have transport at each end. If you’re going solo, the walk from one end of the track to the other via the road is an additional 4.5km. You can hike the track in either direction but starting at the Ocean Beach end is marginally easier. From the Ocean Beach car…

I HAVE STRONG memories from when I was little of eating bacon flavoured TVP (textured vegetable protein) by the bucket load while somewhere up the Young Valley about five days into a family adventure. Now that I have to carry my own food I can understand why my parents used so much of it. TVP is made from soy and is a lightweight, shelf-stable option for tramping trips. It’s high in protein and doesn’t turn to mush in your pack. The most important thing when cooking TVP is to ensure that it rehydrates fully – otherwise it can make you feel bloated. PROFILE Prep time 10min Cook time 10min Serves 2 Cost $5-7 RECIPE 1 cup TVP 1/3 cup dehydrated peas 1¼ cup boiling water 1 tsp olive oil 1…

COOKING My MSR PocketRocket is super compact and works well at reasonable altitude such as at Wright Col (2264m). The ancient billy I cart round is great for filling up with squash-ables. And while my Swiss Army Knife is pretty big, its extra features make it good for more than slicing veges (there’s satisfaction in taking the mini saw to exotic broom). Also, a titanium bowl and spoon. SLEEPING I have a Kathmandu Pathfinder sleeping bag, a much-used, never-patched Kathmandu inflatable sleeping mat, and The Palace – my new Macpac Olympus tent. PACK I use a Macpac Ascent 70 litre, which I always manage to squeeze everything into, despite my aiming half my wardrobe at it. It’s comfortable and durable. I also use a plastic pack liner. CLOTHING I’m a…

WARMTH It’s essential the boot is able to keep feet warm for prolonged periods above the snowline. Warmth is achieved through a combination of insulation, upper material and a waterproof/breathable lining. UPPERS Some boots have one-piece leather uppers but there are also multi-panel synthetic/leather options. The thickness of the upper should be between 2-3mm. FIT Perfection is crucial – these boots are so stiff, pressure points will not go away with use. Ensure enough wriggle room to keep blood flowing to the toes – helpful to prevent frost-nip. The heel needs to be secure. STIFFNESS The shank is commonly made from nylon, fibreglass or Kevlar and has little or no flex over the length or width of the boot. This provides a stable platform in rugged terrain and while climbing,…