go!の February 2019 の目次

Capetonians reckon they know about rain. I’m not so sure. It’s either absent or it’s a drizzle that softly soaks the senses to the point of irritation. During a storm, it comes at you in horizontal gusts, rendering umbrellas and awnings useless. You have to head north if you want to see proper rain: a thunderstorm, preferably in the Kruger National Park. A year ago, we crossed from Mozambique into South Africa at Giriyondo in the north-east of the Kruger, on our way to Letaba where we were going to spend the night. The bush was dry. At a cement dam fed by a borehole, elephants elbowed each other out of the way for a drink of water. But in the distance, huge white clouds were billowing, filled with the…

This photo of an adult king penguin surrounded by a crowd of chicks won Chris Oosthuizen, from the Department of Zoology and Entomology at the University of Pretoria, top honours in an annual photo competition held by the British Ecological Society. Chris took the photo on Marion Island, when he worked there in 2011 and 2012 as part of a research team. “Photos are an important tool to get people involved in science – they can convey important conservation messages,” he says. “Many seabirds are more endangered than elephants and rhinos – they deserve the same attention as the more glamorous animals.” The future of king penguin populations on the islands around Antarctica is threatened by climate change. The biggest king penguin colony in the world – the Morne du…

The super moon – an astronomer’s kryptonite The term“super moon”gains more traction in the media every year, much to astronomers’ irritation. American astrologer Richard Nolle coined the term in 1979 to market a book he’d written: According to him, a full moon becomes a super moon when it’s“near its closest approach to earth in a given orbit”. Nolle calculated the“closest approach”by taking the difference between the moon’s furthest and closest points to the earth in a given year and working out 90% of that figure, then subtracting it from the furthest point. In 2019, the calculation will work like this: The moon’s furthest point from earth will be 406 555 km on 5 February; later that month on 19 February it will reach its closest point: 356 761 km. The…

Where does your love of the outdoors come from? My love of nature, camping and hiking developed early on, when I joined the Bellville branch of the Voortrekkers youth organisation in the 1950s. I later studied at Stellenbosch University and joined the university’s hiking club, called the Berg-en-Toerklub. I became a geography professor at the University of Pretoria and for my master’s degree in landscape architecture, I researched the Magaliesberg area. It was then that I realised that South Africa needs well-designed trails so people can enjoy nature in a responsible way. I saw a lot of erosion and poor trail design and researched the subject further. What constitutes poor trail design? Many things. For example, a trail shouldn’t face straight into the sun in the early morning – hikers…

Rumours by Fleetwood Mac R69 at the Google Play store; also on streaming services Whenever I hunt around online for good recommendations for road music, one band always pops up: Fleetwood Mac. This legendary band has been around in various guises since 1967 and they’re still going strong. This year they’re touring in the USA, Europe and the UK. They’ve sold more than 100 million albums! Music critic Stephen Thomas Erlewine describes their most successful album Rumours (1977) as “one of the greatest, most compelling pop albums of all time”. With runaway hits like “Dreams”, “Don’t Stop”, “Go Your Own Way” and “You Make Loving Fun”, it’s Fleetwood Mac at their very best. Indeed, Rumours is a road-trip classic, a compulsory soundtrack…

1 Go out on the water  Birdwatching is best from a boat. The boat departs every day at 9 am, 11 am and 3 pm and the tour takes about two hours. Two guides will accompany you. The rate includes tea, coffee and pastries in the morning, or a beer or a glass of wine with a selection of snacks in the afternoon. Bring your binoculars, your camera, a sun hat and a warm jacket. R350 per adult; R125 per child; free for children under 6. 2 Hike along the shore  There are two marked circular routes next to the vlei. Both routes start at the reception office. The red loop is 3 km long and the blue loop is 14 km. Go early in the morning or late in…

Dalfrenzo Laing, activity manager “I enjoy living and working in this special place. It might be far from civilisation, but I learn more here than I would in a nightclub.” Theo Benan, guide “The fynbos is amazing – I enjoy making people more aware of it. De Hoop teaches me to appreciate nature and look more closely.” Mary Mintoor, head of housekeeping “I like the antelope but not the baboons – they sometimes break into the houses and leave a big mess.” Tony & Ann Klempner, Johannesburg “The openness is special – you feel like you can breathe here. And we’ve never seen so many whales in one place!” Caroline & Trevor Gray, Auckland, New Zealand “The peace and isolation made this reserve stand out. We enjoyed the vlei and…

Smoked halloumi Serves 4 Preparation time 10 minutes Cooking time 10 minutes If you ever visit the Amalfi Coast, be sure to order mozzarella grilled between lemon leaves. For this recipe, I used halloumi. You need • 250 g haloumi or smoked mozzarella • 16 – 20 big lemon leaves • olive oil • lemon wedges Here’s how 1 Cut the cheese into strips of ½ – 1 cm thick, as wide as the leaves. Wash the leaves and pat them dry. 2 Put a strip of cheese between two leaves. Use tooth picks to secure the parcel. 3 Drizzle olive oil over the parcels. Put the parcels on the grid over medium-hot coals and braai for a few minutes a side. It’s cooked when the cheese is warm and gooey. 4 Remove the…

Touring maps • Baviaanskloof • Cape Peninsula • Cederberg • Day drives from Cape Town • Garden Route • Overberg Whale Coast • Swartberg & Little Karoo • Tankwa Karoo & Roggeveld Escarpment • Wild Coast Hiking maps • Table Mountain • Silvermine & Hout Bay • Cape Point & Simon’s Town • Hike the Cederberg • Fish River Canyon • Various Drakensberg maps under a different imprint, but based on work that Slingsby did in the 1980s…

ADVENTURE ITINERARY DAY 1 We meet at Camp Nkwazi, just outside Livingstone. By the time you arrive, your tents would have been pitched and our bush chef will be preparing the first of the delicious meals you will be enjoying on this safari. The evening will be spent socialising around the fire. DAY 2 We get an early start after breakfast. You will be issued two-way hand-held radios before we take to the road. We head to Lusaka where we will overnight on our way to South Luangwa National Park. DAY 3 We continue our journey northwards, and overnight at a campsite just outside of Chipata. DAYS 4, 5 & 6 Our campsite for the next few days is set on the banks of the Luangwa River. This is one…

“I like the heat,” says Olivia le Cordeur, manager of the Wellington Museum. I wipe sweat from my upper lip, struggling to believe her. How could anyone enjoy a November day as hot as this? “It’s true,” she says. “Give me 39 degrees any day!” Only someone born and raised here would say something like that. The town’s not called Hellington for nothing… Did the French Huguenots who settled in the Limiet Valley in the 17th century share Olivia’s sentiments? Well, something must have convinced them to stay. My money is on the view: If you’re looking at the mountains, Wellington is in a bowl created by the Groenberg on the left, the Limietberg and the Slanghoekberg behind and the Seven Sisters of the Hawekwa Mountains on the right. But…

Share your milk tart photos with us and you could win a holiday on the Wild Coast. Here’s what you need to do: 1 Get your hands on a milk tart any time from 1– 28 February 2019. 2 Take a photo of it. 3 Share the photo on Facebook or on Instagram and use the hashtags #mymilktart2019 and #ladismith 4 Eat the milk tart! It’s as easy as that. There are no rules regarding the photos or the milk tart. You and your whole family (including your dog and cat) can be in the picture. The milk tart can be big or small, photographed in your kitchen, at work or on a koppie. Your entry is valid if it features a milk tart.…

The biggest challenge of this story? I didn’t stay in the reserve because the self-catering accommodation is on the expensive side. I stayed on a farm about 15 km from the main gate. De Hoop only opens at 7 am, but the park staff allowed me to enter half an hour earlier to take photos during the golden hour. I had to brave the dirt road (and its potholes) in the dark every morning. What about De Hoop surprised you? It’s a relatively small reserve, but home to such diverse ecosystems: the vlei, sea and fynbos. Walking along the vlei in the early morning was magical. Any interesting anecdotes? On the morning I returned to Cape Town, the dirt roads were muddy after heavy rain the previous night. The magazine’s…

If you want to add a little adrenaline to your holiday, visit bundu.co.za  for suggestions about adventure activities in the area you plan to visit, whether it’s a surfing lesson in Camps Bay or a mountain-bike trail in Hogsback. The cost of the activity is listed, and how to make a booking. The idea for Bundu was born when one of the founders wanted to go scuba-diving, but struggled to find the best place to do so in Cape Town. “He had to visit several websites, make lots of calls and send e-mails to find out what his options were and how much they cost,” says co-founder Pieter Klue. “He realised there was a need for an online platform where people can search for adventure activities, compare prices…

NEW MOON 4 FEBRUARY SPRING TIDE: 5 FEBRUARY HIGH TIDE: 3.52 AM & 3.57 PM FIRST QUARTER 12 FEBRUARY NEAP TIDE: 13 FEBRUARY HIGH TIDE: 8.55 AM & 9.43 PM FULL MOON 19 FEBRUARY  SPRING TIDE: 20 FEBRUARY HIGH TIDE: 3.52 AM & 4.13 PM LAST QUARTER 26 FEBRUARY NEAP TIDE: 27 FEBRUARY HIGH TIDE: 9.39 AM & 10.58 PM These are the high tide times for Cape Town. For other places, add or subtract minutes: Saldanha: +5; Hermanus: -4; Port Elizabeth: +19; Durban: +26 Tide information reproduced with permission from the Hydrographer, SA Navy. The Hydrographer is not responsible for any transcription errors. sanho.co.za SUNRISE & SUNSET (15 FEBRUARY) Cape Town 6.22 am & 7.42 pm Bloemfontein 5.57 am & 7.05 pm Johannesburg…

Tiger Walk by Dianne Hofmeyr  (Tafelberg) R150 in bookstores This children’s book by Dianne Hofmeyr – a South African living in London – is inspired by a painting called “Surprised!” (1891) by Henri Rousseau, which hangs in the National Gallery in London. The painting depicts a tiger in a tropical storm, illuminated by a bolt of lightning. Tiger Walk tells the story of Tom, a young boy who sees the painting in the gallery and then draws a picture of a tiger when he gets back home. In the night, the tiger of his creation awakens, blows its warm tiger breath on Tom and says, “Let’s go for a walk!” This is how Tom and the tiger’s nightly adventures begin. They visit an imagined jungle, a river, a…

Place by Bridget Hilton-Barber and Pat Hopkins Zebra Press, 2007 You might be wondering why we’re labelling a book published in 2007 as a “classic”. Well, it’s a highly enjoyable and informative collection of South African travel and landscape quotations, some of which date from more than a hundred years ago. In the book’s introduction, Laurens van der Post is quoted from his book The Lost World of the Kalahari : Ever since I can remember I have been struck by the profound quality of melancholy which lies at the heart of the physical scene of Southern Africa. I recollect clearly asking my father once: “Why do the vlaktes and koppies always look so sad?” He replied with unexpected feeling: “The sadness is not in the plains…

1898 Paul Kruger, president of the Transvaal Republic, proclaims the Sabie Game Reserve in the area between the Crocodile and Sabie rivers. 1902 Colonel James Stevenson-Hamilton is appointed as the first warden of the reserve. 1903 The British government proclaims the reserve again, this time including the Shingwedzi Game Reserve between the Letaba and Luvuvhu rivers. 1905 In his annual report, Stevenson-Hamilton notes that a small herd of about 10 elephants was spotted in the forests on the eastern park border with Mozambique, at the confluence of the Letaba and Olifants rivers. 1926 The first park board is elected and the Kruger is declared a national park. 1927 The park opens to the public. 1928 – 1929 Pretoriuskop rest camp gets overnight facilities – three pole-and-clay huts. Skukuza and Satara…

WHY? We publish a selection of reader pictures every month. Don’t be shy, haul out those shots you’ve been hoarding on your computer and send them to us! We like just about anything: wildlife, landscapes, portraits, holiday snaps or bugs in your garden. HOW? Send your best photos to takeyourpic@gomag.co.za  Don’t send files bigger than 4 MB – if we need a bigger version, we’ll ask for it. Give the name, surname, home town and contact number of the photographer. Also include info about where and how the shot was taken, and what equipment was used. If you manipulated your photo in any way, tell us what you did. THE FINE PRINT We reserve the right to use your photos elsewhere in the magazine, on our digital platforms…

The braai isn’t a huge part of Italian culture, but it should be. After all, Italian dishes are best when the flavours are simple and the ingredients are fresh. Herbs, salad, slices of rare beef drizzled with olive oil… A braai fits right into that picture. There’s a saying that goes: “Life is uncertain – eat dessert first.” That’s why we’re starting with a delicious sweeter wine this month. Prosecco might be Italy’s biggest wine export at the moment, but Moscato – from the muscat grape – isn’t far behind. Here’s a South African version: Angels Tears Moscato 2018 (R65). It has exuberant notes of peach, grapes and rose petals, with a dash of sugary sweetness to help it go down. Pour it over crushed ice and serve with a…

Google Maps What on earth did we do before Google Maps? I use it daily, even on routes I know – the live traffic info is especially useful and has saved me hours on commutes. Street view, satellite view, voice control… Google has thought of everything. Here are some tips to enhance your experience: Download offline maps. This spares your mobile data. You can choose a radius around your home, or download a particular area you plan to explore, like the KZN South Coast, for example. Use My Maps. You need a web browser on a desktop PC for this, and a Google account. Go to mymaps.google.com  and you can create a custom map for your road trip, with all the places you plan to stay at…

The idea to give the humble milk tart its rightful place on the South African calendar was born right here in the go! office in Cape Town. Seven years ago, on 27 February 2012, we felt that this proudly local bake needed a special day when all South Africans could unite around a common and much-loved product – and so National Milk Tart Day was born. Every year since then, our readers, friends and partners like Ladismith, have become more and more involved, and the day has evolved into a massive movement. From Facebook, Instagram and Twitter to radio stations, newspapers and TV shows, everyone has climbed aboard the milk tart express. This guilt-free initiative, built on the shared love for a nostalgic sweet treat, culminates on 27 February when…

Last week, a friend and I were driving down Independence Avenue – the main road in Windhoek. It was a Sunday evening, the electricity meter in my flat was low on units and my energy levels were even lower. Neither of us was in the mood to cook, so the easy solution was to grab a takeaway. First we considered German: Eisbein with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes from Joe’s Beerhouse sounded good, but it wouldn’t work as a takeaway. By the time we arrived back home, the dish would be cold. The nearby Asian restaurant was full – apparently beef with oyster sauce is popular on a Sunday night. So I suggested KFC. “We don’t even have to get out of the car. I have cash. And we can be…

Do you like nature and classical music? Then you’ll love the Sunset Serenade concerts, hosted by the SANParks Honorary Rangers, where you can listen to Mozart and the sounds of the bush. You’ll spend a long weekend in the park and attend three concerts in different venues near Mopani rest camp. You’ll get sundowners at each concert and afterwards you’ll sit down to a three-course meal on the deck of the Tindlovu Restaurant, overlooking Pioneer Dam. During the day you’re free to go on game drives or relax in camp. This popular event will be held for the 20th time this year. To celebrate, there will be two Sunset Serenade weekends. Profits go towards conservation and SANParks counter-poaching projects. When? 8 – 12 May and 15…

Toeka se Dae Farm Stall, Bela-Bela This farm stall is an institution in the area. After a long day on the road, I was hungry and thirsty when I pulled over. I dropped my phone and wallet on the table in a huff, but perked up when the waiter asked whether I would like a big cup of coffee (R30) with condensed milk. The beef burger (R75) also went down a treat. Toeka is more than a farm stall – it’s a restaurant and an unofficial museum with a number of antiques on the shelves and hanging from the roof: Mercedes wheel caps, old street signs, lanterns, rusted tin plates… The farm stall next to the restaurant sells all the staples like rusks, jam, fresh bread, biscuits, preserved goods, chutney,…

It doesn’t take much to figure out how the vine snake (also called the twig snake) got its name. Its superbly camouflaged, grey-and-black mottled body resembles a slender twig, allowing the snake to disappear effortlessly into the branches of a tree or bush. Vine snakes are almost exclusively arboreal and often impossible to spot in their natural habitat. However, they sometimes descend to the ground if they need to move from one tree to the next – and that’s when most sightings occur. Do they pose a threat to humans? Yes, their venom is hemotoxic and attacks the blood-clotting system. There’s no antivenin for this snake; should someone be bitten, he or she might require a blood transfusion. But don’t stress: Vine snakes are placid and seldom strike; they do…

When did you first read the story of Odysseus and his long journey home? I became familiar with the basic outline of the story as a child, but I only read it properly as an adult. That was when I was struck by its depth and complexity. What made you decide to retell this classic story? I started wondering what Penelope might have been going through during Odysseus’s voyage, and decided to write a version of the Odyssey that would describe his and her experiences. For each chapter about Odysseus, there is one about Penelope. How did you approach your research? I revisited the Odyssey , and Homer’s other famous work, the Iliad . I also…

How to get there? Turn onto the R319 from the N2, between Stormsvlei and Swellendam. When you get close to Bredasdorp, take the dirt road to the reserve (there’s a sign). There’s another turn-off to De Hoop about 35 km further. From there it’s 7 km to the gate. Opening times: 7 am to 6 pm (7 pm on Fridays) throughout the year. Best time to visit? Between August and November, when the whales are visiting and the veld is lush after winter rain. Cost: Day visitors conservation fee R50 per adult; R30 per child; free with a Wild card. Where to eat? If you’re self-catering, stock up in Bredasdorp. There’s a shopping centre with chain stores. (Remember to buy firewood.) There’s a restaurant inside the reserve called The Fig…

What is Silent Steps? It’s a company owned and run by Anette Grobler – a small but formidable woman. Anette is a former SANDF major with nearly a decade of experience in the army. She was one of the first-ever women selected to attempt the challenging Recce course! You’re in good hands under her care. Silent Steps is well known for its popular Shoreline of the San Hike, which starts in Elands Bay. Each year they also do a longer, more challenging hike – often a once-off experience. Keep your eyes on their website for details. Many of Anette’s hikers are return customers. It’s easy to see why. Top packing tips: The Hantam Hike is a slackpacking walk. You carry a daypack; a sheep truck will move your camping gear…

Botswana offers some of the best wildlife experiences in the world. You can pitch your tent in pristine veld and there are seldom fences to separate you from the animals. Willem van der Berg will be familiar to regular readers of this magazine. He has written and photographed dozens of stories since 2012. However, this is the first time his photography on its own has taken centre stage. Willem grew up on various farms in the Northern Cape and the Free State. After school he joined his father on a farm between Van Zylsrus and Askham, but was lured back to Bloemfontein where he studied journalism. In summer last year, Willem travelled to the Mabuasehube section of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, and to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, on assignment…

K-Way Scout Compass Just as you should always carry a space blanket and a first aid kit when you’re hiking in the wilderness, you should stash one of these in your backpack, along with a detailed paper map. Batteries die and GPS devices lose signal. With a compass and a map, however, you can almost always get yourself out of trouble if you get lost. It’s inexpensive and marginally bigger than a credit card. No excuses. R120 at Cape Union Mart Slingsby maps Peter Slingsby is a national treasure. For the past few decades, he’s been quietly creating some of the best and most detailed touring and hiking maps of popular travel destinations in southern Africa. He doesn’t just copy what someone else has done and change the colours and…

It says a lot when the most anticipated motoring launch of the year isn’t for a multimillion-rand supercar, but rather for a small, cheap and rather square Japanese 4x4 that might make it to 150 km/h, but only if you chuck it down a mine shaft. However, you underestimate the Suzuki Jimny at your own peril. It’s the Yorkshire terrier of the motoring world. A Yorkie might look cute and cuddly, like something you want to carry around in a handbag, but it has been bred to hunt and kill rats in the most inhospitable terrain. A heart of a lion beats in that small chest. It’s the same with the Jimny. Here are the four important things you need to know about the new one. 1 The designers have…

• Use cold butter for the puff pastry. And cool the pastry each time you flatten it with a rolling pin. • Don’t stretch the pastry when lining the tart dish because it will shrink in the oven. Rather lower it carefully into the dish. • Let the pastry hang over the rim of the dish by about a centimetre. That way, should it shrink, there will still be enough crust around the top of the milk tart. • Stir the filling mixture while it boils to prevent lumps. It also helps to stir a few spoonfuls of the warm milk into the egg mixture before you add the rest of the milk. That way you won’t end up with scrambled eggs. • Go easy on the flavouring. The filling should be a sweet, milky…