Dishの Issue 90 June/july 2020 の目次

I started writing this yesterday when New Zealand’s COVID-19 alert level was 2. Midway through, the government announced we would move immediately to 3 and, by midnight tomorrow, to level 4. I absolutely believe this was the right call to make, and yet now I’m not sure that you will have the chance to read this beautiful issue of dish in the intended month of April. I hope so. My incredible team have been working at hurricane pace to get pages on the presses, aiming to get printed and distributed in time. In the last few weeks, as the coronavirus nightmare has been unfolding, we have pivoted on several occasions with the aim of bringing you the most relevant content possible–beginning with our Pantry Power spread on page 10. I…

V (recipe page 13) GF V (recipe page 20) (recipe page 13) GF V (recipe page 14) Basic Garlic and Chilli Pasta (v) 100 grams dried spaghetti2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra to serve2 cloves garlic, crushed½ teaspoon chilli flakessea salt and ground pepper2 tablespoonsfinely chopped parsley¼ cup freshly grated parmesan Cook the spaghetti in a large saucepan of salted boiling water for 1 minute less than the packet instructions. While the spaghetti is cooking, heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan and cook the garlic and chilli flakes over a low heat for 2 minutes, or until lightly golden but not browned. Season with salt and pepper. Reserve ¼ cup of the cooking water then drain the pasta. Add the hot pasta and reserved water to the…

Tarragon, Lemon and Garlic Roast Chicken 1 fresh chicken50 grams butter, at room temperature1 teaspoon Dijon mustard1 tablespoon finely chopped tarragon leavesfinely grated zest 1 lemon2 cloves garlic, crushedsea salt and freshly ground pepper Preheat the oven to 180°C. Wash the chicken inside and out under cold water then dry well with kitchen towels. Carefully separate the skin from the breast of the chicken by running your fingers under the skin, keeping it intact. Combine the butter with all the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Push a third of the butter into the space between the skin and flesh of one breast and then massage it down so the entire side is covered. Repeat with the other breast. Season the cavity of the chicken, halve the zested…

NICO MENDEZ Chef/co-owner, Barulho and F onda Uruguay-born Nico and partner Sarah Ginella created quite the buzz when they opened tapas bar Barulho three years ago. It was like a little corner of the Mediterranean had flown off and landed ka-thunk down an alleyway in a quiet Auckland suburb. As the queues grew, so did Barulho’s reputation–so much so that it outgrew its premises. A new, expanded Barulho now sits alongside the couple’s latest venture–Fonda, a Mexican street food-inspired eatery that’s already the hot new kid on the block. Nico: I grew up in a very small town in Uruguay–Garzón. The population was 180 and it’s probably even less now. All the kids there were ‘free-range’; we went to school at 10am, finished at 3.30pm and then quickly ran to…

8 medium, firm but ripe plums (I used Black Doris)3 tablespoons brown sugar¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon½ teaspoon ground Chinese 5 spice CAKE 180 grams butter at room temperature1 cup caster sugar1 teaspoon vanilla extract with star anise or plain vanilla3 large eggs, lightly beaten1¾ cups plain flour½ teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon baking powder Grease an 8-cup capacity loaf tin and fully line with baking paper. My tin is 25cm x 13cm and 7½ cm deep. Preheat the oven to 150°C fan bake. Halve and stone the plums. Cut each half into 3 wedges and set aside. Combine the sugar, cinnamon and 5 spice in a bowl and set aside. CAKE: Beat the butter, sugar and vanilla until pale and light. Gradually beat in the eggs, adding in a tablespoon of…

Claire Aldous Food Editor @clairealdous Food editor Claire is the mastermind behind recipes enjoyed by thousands of readers for more than 15 years, having been with dish since the very first issue. With a vast knowledge of ingredients and techniques, her constant innovation and imagination are an invaluable source of inspiration. Always generous and welcoming, she focuses on creating recipes that are neither fussy nor overly fancy, producing delicious dishes that delight her guests and fill the kitchen with gorgeous waromas. “My favourite night of the week? Sunday. Having family and friends over for a casual, delicious dinner, usually followed by an indulgent dessert, encapsulates everything I love about cooking.” Maria Hoyle Writer @hoylz Manchester-born Maria initially dreamed of being an interpreter after graduating from uni in French and Spanish……

New Zealand garlic is harvested through the summer months and is available most of the year. You can tell it apart from imports because the ends, often trimmed by hand, have a little of the root attached. It’s just as easy to spot Chinese garlic as it looks unnaturally white and is shorn to the end of the bulb. Californian garlic is similar to our local product, although trimmed, and is a good standby when New Zealand garlic sells out. 1. TO CRUSH OR TO CHOP? In warm weather keep garlic refrigerated wrapped in kitchen towels, and at other times in a cool dark place, breaking off cloves as required. Here’s a tip: peel a whole head at a time, rather than just a clove or two, and refrigerate the…

Elizabeth JohnsonNew South Wales Southern NSW–and indeed many areas in the north, west and south-west of Sydney (it seemed at times as if all of the eastern seaboard of Australia was on fire)–was severely impacted by catastrophic bush fire events. Those threats continued up until very recently when we received enough rain here on the south coast (ie 400km south of Sydney) to finally extinguish blazes. It has been a harrowing time. My hubby is a firefighter with a small rural brigade and he has been going non-stop for months. Now there is some space to breathe and unpack the boxes and suitcases that have been set by our front door ready for evacuation. We departed our home on three occasions thinking that we might never see it again. Thankfully…

They say the best way to learn about a business is from the bottom up, and Frankie Walker would no doubt say cheers to that. Twenty-five years ago he was collecting glasses in bars; today he’s a mover and shaker in the biz, heading up thriving beverages company Black Pineapple. Frankie and his team offer everything from bespoke bars–like the popular Tiki-themed ‘party in a box’–to drinks catering, whisky tastings, masterclasses, cocktail competitions for corporate teams and brand consultancy. It was during UK-born Frankie’s time at Lion New Zealand–where he had gone from brand ambassador to heading up training and education for their key customers nationwide–that the idea was born. He would often be asked if he could provide drinks and staff for a product launch, store opening or wedding…

(recipe page 66) Plum, Lemon and Ricotta Cake (gf) Simple and delicious, this is a gorgeous moist cake with little dabs of ricotta, ruby plums and almonds. 750-gram tin black doris plums, drained, halved and pitted (see Cook’s note)150 grams butter, at room temperature1 packed cup brown sugarfinely grated zest 1 lemon1 teaspoon vanilla extract2 large eggs, at room temperature150 grams firm ricotta½ cup brown rice flour1 teaspoon baking powder½ cup ground almonds (almond meal)⅓ cup flaked almondsicing sugar for dusting EQUIPMENT: Grease a 24cm shallow round baking dish or springform cake tin and fully line with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the plums cut side down on kitchen towels to remove excess moisture. Beat the butter, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla together until pale and fluffy.…

(recipe page 94) Karaage The key to outrageously crunchy karaage is frying the chicken twice–totally worth the effort! MARINADE ¼ cup soy sauce2 tablespoons sake1 teaspoon sesame oil1 thumb fresh ginger, grated3 cloves garlic, crushed2 teaspoons caster sugar700 grams boneless chicken thighs3 cups vegetable oil2 cups potato starch (I bought mine at an Asian market)½ cup Japanese mayotogarashi seasoning or sea salt EQUIPMENT: Line an oven tray with baking paper and a cooling rack with scrunched-up kitchen towels. MARINADE: Put the soy sauce, sake, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and sugar in a bowl and whisk to combine. Remove the skin from the chicken or leave it on–traditionally it is left on, but I prefer it removed. Cut the thighs into 2-3 pieces. Add the chicken to the marinade and mix…

TASTING PANEL JUDGES AND RATING SYSTEM YVONNE LORKIN dish drinks writer and experienced beer, wine and cider judge CAMERON DOUGLAS Master sommelier and lecturer at AUT LYNNETTE HUDSON Winemaker, for Tongue in Groove Wines Gold Medal Superb. Strongly recommended. Silver Medal A cut above the rest in quality. Bronze Medal A good-quality crowd pleaser. (NB: All wines are judged blind under competition conditions. The scores of judges for their own wines cannot exceed those of other judges.) What is it about the cooling creep of autumn’s afternoon shadows and soft tick of the crockpot thermostat in winter that has us craving those addictively good violet- and pepper-scented syrahs? Maybe it’s because we’re becoming better acquainted with the styles our little country is capable of creating. Maybe it’s because it’s so…

FORREST ALBARIÑO TASTING NOTES “Varietally excellent–stone fruit and citrus, saline and stony. On the palate, a hint of oiliness to the point of being gently creamy in texture. Flavours of yellow fruits transition to citrus. The finish on the back palate has a light pinch or squeeze of phenolics that complete the taste. Already in balance with a lengthy finish and complexity that will continue to build in the coming months. Very good example. 92 Points”–Cameron Douglas, Master Sommelier. forrest.co.nz The flavour maker Gently cured and naturally smoked, Freedom Farms Shoulder Bacon is sourced from a very special group of independently audited farms in South Canterbury. Shoulder bacon has delicate marbling, making it a more flavoursome choice. Available from all good supermarkets. TOUCHSCREEN OVEN WITH GUIDED COOKING Fisher&Paykel’s new collection…

MOVIE NIGHT Why not cook up a storm of delicious dishes that match the theme of your favourite film? Big Night The TripChef ChocolatJulie & Julia The Hundred-Foot JourneyBabette’s Feast Women on the Verge of a Nervous BreakdownGroundhog Day Room with a ViewLadybird Harry Potter (any and all!)Billy Elliot One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s NestKinky Boots PrideWeNeedtoTalkAboutKevin Marriage StoryAbout A Boy Call Me by Your NameTrainspotting A Single ManBlue Jasmine BoyStrictly Ballroom Lord of the RingsMilk Moonlight GAMES NIGHT If you have enough people living in one space, these games are a fabulous distraction. Many are also available to play online or in a virtual sense. Bananas Charades Dixit Dungeons and Dragons Scrabble Video games (take your pick!) Backgammon Hangman Battleship Monopoly Connect Four Catan Trivial Pursuit Chess Cranium Pictionary…

Founded in 1760, Maison Lanson is one of the oldest champagne houses, proud to have maintained their family traditions for more than 260 years. They have a belief that love for others is also a love of life, and are proud to stand for the values of openness, kindness, humility, authenticity and elegance. Those values were clearly on display as guests gathered to share an evening of fun and friendship–the sounds of clinking glasses, laughter and chatter filled the room with warmth. While the Amazonita waitstaff kept glasses topped up in the restaurant, head chef Vincent Kho was hard at work in the kitchen with his team, plating up delectable dishes. Kho has a passion for using sustainable, seasonal, local produce and the menu reflected his desire to showcase those…

Capturing images of our food is nothing new. The 17th-century German, Flemish and Dutch artists were masters at it; only they didn’t call it Instagramming, but still life. Now New Zealand photographer Emma Bass pays homage to the likes of Bosschaert, Van Aelst and Brueghel in a new series of works, A Little Garden. Smudging the line between collage, photography and painting, she uses reproductions of the Old Master’s paintings as her canvas. On top she places assorted objects, photographs the result–and then a surprise touch: Matisse shapes painted in 24-carat gilded gold leaf are arranged on the image, a shimmering reminder that, unlike the subject, art is never still. In fact the whole series is an expression of an artist in evolution. It’s quite a departure from Emma’s floral…

V (recipe page 62) V (recipe page 57) Orecchiette with Lemon Butter, Kale and Crumbs Orecchiette is fun to make and doesn’t require a pasta machine or eggs. Don’t worry if you can’t get the pieces perfect–they’ll be delicious either way. ORECCHIETTE 400 grams semolina flour, plus extra for sprinkling200ml warm water CRUMBS 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil2 cups coarse breadcrumbs (I used sourdough) LEMON BUTTER 150 grams salted butter2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped2 cloves garlic, thinly slicedzest of 2 lemons TO COOK AND SERVE 2 cups thinly sliced kalejuice of 2 lemons1 tablespoon cracked black pepperfinely grated parmesan ORECCHIETTE: Place the semolina flour on a clean, flat surface and make a well in the centre. Gradually pour in the warm water and use a fork to bring the…

GF (recipe page 91) GF (recipe page 83) (recipe page 83) GF V Baked Eggplant with Warm Chickpeas and Yoghurt (gf) (v) While the eggplants do take time in the oven, once they’re in, it only takes a few minutes to add the final touches for a flavour-packed meal. 2 medium eggplants50 grams butter1 teaspoon smoked paprika1½ teaspoon cumin seeds1 clove garlic, crushed400-gram tin chickpeas, drained and rinsedsea salt and ground pepper TO SERVE 1 cup thick plain yoghurt2 tablespoons purchased dukkah2 spring onions, thinly sliced Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Prick each eggplant a few times with the tip of a knife then place on a baking tray. Roast for 40-45 minutes, or until they are just starting to collapse and are very tender. Leave to cool…

GF V (recipe page 102) Onion and Cumin Bhaji (gf) (v) These bhajis are tender on the inside with lovely crispy bits hanging off the sides. Using chickpea flour and rice flour means they’re also a fabulous gluten-free treat that can be enjoyed by everyone. 1 large egg1 tablespoon lemon juice or apple cider vinegar ⅓ cup water1 cup chickpea flour1 tablespoon brown rice flour1 teaspoon each sea salt and garam masala1½ teaspoons cumin seeds½ teaspoon each ground turmeric and baking powderneutral oil for cooking2 large red onions, halved and very thinly sliced TO SERVE purchased tamarind or mango chutney and thick plain yoghurt or coconut yoghurt EQUIPMENT: Line a flat baking tray with kitchen towels and place a cake-cooling rack on top. Place in a warm oven on a…

ONE FOR THE BROSÉ Keep those summer memories frothing by trying the new (and I think only) beer inspired by rosé. Brosé IPA 440ml ($9.99) doesn’t actually contain any wine, but with its dusky, rose-gold colour and a good chill, it’s all about projecting fruity hops and hibiscus florals and delivering the same feel-good, crunchy herbaceous freshness that rosé delivers in a glass, in a can. For stockists contact marketing@sawmillbrewery.co.nz. KEEP IT CULT Wellington retailer Cult Wine has launched its Auckland satellite store Cult Corner inside The Fridge & Flagon, Beer Jerk HQ, at 2 Shaddock Street, Eden Terrace. Cult Corner (@cultcrnr) will showcase 50-plus lo-fi and natural wines. “We’ve been asked so many times whether we would expand to Auckland,” says Cult Wine director Jules van Costello, “so Cult…

FEED ME, FEED ME Fran Mazza, Random House, $50 This enticing collection from pastry chef Fran Mazza–who with husband Aaron Carson is responsible for raising the bar on Auckland’s cafe scene–is a club sandwich of a book, many-layered and heartily satisfying. Some of the dishes are from their iconic eateries, all embrace their ethos of ‘highquality, accessible food’, and many are multicultural in influence. As well as sharing the stories behind the cafes, including Winona Forever, Sugar, Major Tom, Rude Boy, and Hello Friends + Allies, it’s a book about global collaboration. Fran, who grew up in an Italian family in New Zealand, explains how Hello Friends + Allies was named as a thankyou to Kiwi soldiers who liberated her father’s town, Rimini, from the Nazis. “That blending of communities…

Notes for cooks To ensure successful results in cooking, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools–measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric. Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up. DISH USES: Large eggs (size 7). Level spoons and cup measurements. Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups. NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml). Oven temperatures Cool oven……….. 225°F……….. 110°C Very low oven……. 300°F………. 150°C Moderate oven…… 350°F……….. 180°C Hot oven………… 400°F……….200°C Very hot oven…… .450°F……….. 230°C Measurements VOLUME 1 level teaspoon…………………… .5ml 1 level tablespoon…………………15ml 1 oz/fl oz………………. 28.35 grams/ml 1 pound……………………. 450 grams…

240 grams ground almonds (almond meal)100 grams brown rice flour200 grams caster sugar60 grams desiccated coconut½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg200 grams butter, melted and cooled4 large eggs2 tablespoons runny honey2 teaspoons vanilla extractfinely grated zest 1 orange2 large, firm but ripe pears100 grams chopped dark chocolate⅓ cup slivered almonds TO SERVE icing for dustingsoftly cream EQUIPMENT: Grease a 24cm loose-based cake tin and line with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake. Combine the ground almonds, flour, sugar, coconut and spices in a bowl. Whisk the butter, eggs, honey, vanilla and zest together and stir into the dry ingredients. Peel, quarter and core the pears. Cut each piece into 3 wedges. Pour half the batter into the tin. Top with half the pears and half…