Dishの Issue 76 February/March 2018 の目次

When the Dish team gathered to plan our summer issue, the idea of innovation was the one that inspired us most. Because, let’s be honest, in the world of food right now, there are gourmet visionaries everywhere we look. And if there’s anything we love more than a clever innovator – it’s celebrating their achievements in the pages of our magazine. Claire Aldous got inventive right away and updates a warmweather staple – the burger on the barbie – to works of improved and quite literally exciting new heights (page 72); Sarah Tuck unpacks a basket-load of fresh ideas for the January picnic (page 66); Olivia Galletly nets up large, with her inspiring seafood recipes (page 56); Nikki Birrell stirs up the cocktail repertoire with ingredients plucked from the garden…

JANUARY Saturday January 20th BRIDGE PA WINE FESTIVAL This day-long wine festival brings together eight of the best Hawke’s Bay wineries within the Bridge Pa Triangle. Sample the wines from this unique region, meet the winemakers and enjoy local food and entertainment. For details, visit eventfinda.co.nz. Saturday January 20th WELLINGTON CUP DAY Bringing together the perfect mix of fashion, racing, champagne and live music is Wallaceville Estate Wellington Cup Day. Wear your finest heels and don the smartest suits for the ultimate summer party. For details, visit tickets.trentham.co.nz. Saturday 27th January WELLINGTON WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL A selection of Wellington’s top restaurants will deliver exquisite dishes, washed down with wine, cider and craft beer beverages ranging from local to international. If you’re the designated driver, you won’t miss out with…

Oysters and gelato may not seem like an obvious pairing. Unless, of course, you’re the clever couple behind Island Gelato, and opening an interconnected eatery at Auckland’s downtown wharf is a rare chance to flex your culinary creativity. Because it was bound to happen. In the three years since Geoff Tippett and MasterChef New Zealand 2012 runner-up Ana Schwarz started crafting and selling gelato, from a small but perfectly formed container on Waiheke Island, the queues for their gourmet cones have become the stuff of legend. An expansion city-side was inevitable so when a space in the historic ferry building came up for lease, it seemed like the stars were aligned. The fact it was big enough to accommodate two enterprises side-by-side made it even more opportune to grow the…

Nadine Levy Redzepi’s cooking has been given some of the highest praise possible – chef René Redzepi says the five-course dinner she once surprised him with was the “greatest meal I’ve ever eaten”. And this is from the innovator who started Noma in Copenhagen, which held the title of best restaurant in the world for four years. René also happens to be Nadine’s husband and he writes about that memorable meal in the foreword to his wife’s cookbook, Downtime – how the warmth and comfort of her home cooking is “a kind of electrical current that runs through the family and keeps it going and together”. He, writes, too about how much chefs are lauded and given so much credit when these days he’s more impressed by the caregivers who…

1 Rockburn Central Otago Fumé Blanc 2014 ($34) This may be a sauvignon blanc but not as you know it. Prepare for luscious lemongrass, hints of marzipan, and cheek-slappingly zesty acidity. A gorgeous smoked passionfruit character adds to its elegant structure. Buy from rockburn.co.nz. 2 De La Terre Hawke’s Bay Cuvée 2 Methode Traditionnelle 2015 ($42) Crafted by Tony Prichard, from fruit grown in the foothills of Te Mata Peak, this incredibly stylish sparkler will impress the crowds with its subtle, biscuity aromas, delicate bead, clean, lemon-layered palate and long, nutty finish. Stunning. Buy from delaterre.co.nz. 3 12,000 Miles Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2015 ($27) The 2015 summer has injected a wave of fresh red fruits, clove, allspice and a dash of truffle and toast into the character profile and it…

Pork Schnitzel Rolls with Apple and Fennel Slaw These have the most satisfying mix of flavours and textures and are always a surefire hit in the picnic basket. 1 cup coarse breadcrumbs1 cup ground almonds2 teaspoons fennel seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle½ cup plain flour2 eggs, whisked500 grams pork filletolive oil, for shallow fryingsea salt and freshly ground black pepperSlaw3 tablespoons cider vinegar2 teaspoons caster sugar1 teaspoon Dijon mustard½ cup good-qualityegg mayonnaise ¼ white savoy cabbage, finely shredded2 granny smith apples, grated (peeling optional)2 fennel bulbs, cored, trimmed, and finely sliced (reserve fronds)5 radishes, finely sliced⅓ cup sliced almonds, toasted2 tablespoons finely chopped fennel frondsTo serve½ cup good-quality egg mayonnaise2 teaspoons Dijon mustard6–8 soft white rolls (depending on the size) Mix the breadcrumbs with the ground almonds and…

Vanilla, Cherry and Pistachio Ice Cream Pistachio lovers will rejoice in this ice cream. This simple trio of flavours is lovely on its own or alongside a chocolate brownie. 3 cups cream¾ cup full-cream milk¾ cup full-fat Greek yoghurt1 cup icing sugar 1½ teaspoons vanilla paste¾ cup pistachio nuts, roughly chopped1 x 425-gram tinned black cherries (stoneless) Whisk together the cream, milk, yoghurt, icing sugar and vanilla paste. Pour into a shallow baking tray lined with baking paper. Place in the freezer for 2 hours or until solid. Use a knife dipped in hot water (then dried) to cut into chunks. Place in a food processor and blitz, scraping the sides as needed, until the chunks are broken up. You’ll need to work fast so that the ice cream doesn’t…

The Modern Cook’s Year BY ANNA JONES Wondrous produce is what Anna Jones champions so beautifully in The Modern Cook’s Year – taking us from spring through to deepest winter with her vibrant, inventive vegetarian dishes. “It’s about an ingredient at its peak, the apex of its flavour, but more than that it’s about a time, a place and the memories...” she writes in her introduction, on the joys of eating seasonally. Each chapter starts with a list of the best of the season’s fruit, veg and flowers before they’re put to magnificent use. In summer, bite into Tarragon-Blistered Tomatoes with Green Oil, whip up Quick Orzo with Fennel, Almonds, Capers and Olives or snack on a Cherry and Black Pepper Streusel Muffin. You’ll even look forward to winter with…

NOTES FOR COOKS To ensure successful results in cooking, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools – measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric. Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up. Dish uses: A fan-forced oven unless otherwise specified. Large eggs (No.7).Level spoons and cup measurements.Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups.NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml).USEFUL INGREDIENT EQUIVALENTSBreadcrumbs1 cup fresh = 50 grams1 cup dried = 115 gramsButter1 (American) stick = 100 grams1 cup = 225 grams2 tablespoons = 30 gramsCheese1 cup grated tasty = 115 grams1 cup parmesan = 150 gramsEgg whitesLarge…

I IS FOR ICE CREAM Giapo Grazioli is a name synonymous with creativity in Auckland culinary circles. The passionate Italian-born chef has created a verified hub of ice cream dreams in the very heart of Auckland’s CBD. It is here, at his Gore Street ice creamery, kitchen and workshop that Giapo and wife Annarosa have reinvented the way that locals and visitors alike enjoy the humble scoop. Uniquely local flavour combinations like Siamu Popo and Te Horo Organic Strawberries and Cream surprise and delight the senses, while hand-made moulds turn the tantalising into the terrific, through artistry and pure innovation. giapo.com N IS FOR NEW POTATOES To meet the increasing demand for smaller pack sizes and eliminate the dirt from the boxes, Rangeview’s new-season potatoes are handpicked from rich Oamaru…

There’s nothing cuter in the vegetable world than a baby zucchini with a sunshine yellow blossom attached. Finger-length and immature, served lightly steamed with a drizzle of oil or spoonful of burnt butter, they’re sensational. But unless you are a home gardener with an abundance of zucchini plants, you’ll likely only find them at farmers’ markets, and you’ll pay a pretty penny. First-time zucchini growers feel disappointed if all they get is a bunch of blossoms and no zucchini. But these blossoms (male flowers) are a prized item. If you only have one or two at a time, finely chop the yellow part of the leaves and scatter on top of a salad. Sliced and floated on top of a seafood broth, or scattered over a creamy dish of pasta…

THE COROMANDEL OYSTER CO. Hit the open road this summer and you’ll discover a seafood spot that’s been delighting locals for years. Break up your road trip and stop for a beer-battered oyster burger or devour them fresh with a squeeze of lemon. freshoysters.co.nz ORTEGA FISH SHACK & BAR Celebrated among Wellingtonians, Mt Victoria’s favourite shack has your summer seafood cravings taken care of. This delightful little eatery serves the ocean’s bounty in a handful of uniquely different and decadent ways. ortega.co.nz THE OYSTER INN Indulge in a dozen gorgeously juicy Te Matuku oysters with one of the best seats on Waiheke. This boutique inn offers private dining and panoramic views across Oneroa Beach, looking out towards the Coromandel. theoysterinn.co.nz…

A surplus of lovely seasonal fruit and veg should never go to waste. Move over pickling and preserving – there’s a saucy alternative ready to turn your summer supping into an explosion of fabulous flavour. With a bit of preparation, a tasty libation is but a shake away. See over the page for cocktails using these juicy lovelies. HOT-PROCESS SYRUPS This is what most of us think of when syrup comes to mind. A viscous liquid is produced by boiling water and sugar with your chosen produce – fruit, herbs, spices. Strain through a muslin cloth or fine-meshed sieve and you have a concentrated flavour at the ready. COLD-PROCESS SYRUP As the name suggests, there’s no heat involved with cold-process syrup making. A simple zip-lock bag can be used to…

Beer Battered Fish and Chips with Smashed Peas A twist on classic fish and chips with a zingy pea smash. Beer batter is so easy to throw together and creates a perfect casing for your favourite flaky white fish. 6 large agria potatoes, scrubbed½ cup flour1 cup frozen peas1 clove garlic, crushed1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves zest and juice of ½ a lemon, plus extra to serve500 grams snapper fillets, or other flaky white fish⅔ cup flour1 teaspoon baking powder200ml beersea salt and ground peppervegetable oil, for deep-frying Peel and cut the potatoes into chips. Place in a large saucepan of salted water and bring to the boil. When the chips have softened slightly, drain and set aside until cool. Place the flour in…

Beef and Kimchi Burgers I’m always looking for another take on a beef burger and this version was a huge hit on recipe testing day – layers of juicy meat and melting cheese. ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs2 tablespoons milk600 grams good beef mince3 tablespoons gochujang (Korean chilli paste)2 cloves garlic, crushed1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger1 tablespoon sesame oilsmall handful coriander, finely choppedsea salt and ground pepper Mayo½ cup purchased mayonnaise1 teaspoon sesame oil2 teaspoons soy sauce2–3 teaspoons sriracha sauce or other chilli sauceTo cook and serveoil8 slices emmental or gruyere cheese4 burger buns, toastedlettuce leaves, sliced tomatoes and avocadoyour favourite brand of kimchi Burger: Stir the breadcrumbs and milk together in a large bowl. Add the mince, gochujang, garlic, ginger, sesame oil and the coriander and season well. Combine everything…

Chinese-Style Green Beans and Pork Have all the sauce ingredients prepped and in their bowls before starting to cook this recipe. You need to keep the pan very hot through the entire process for a great result. Serve over cooked vermicelli noodles, rice or egg noodles. Sauce2 teaspoons cornflour½ cup Shaoxing cooking wine, chicken stock or water2 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon caster sugarVegetablesrice bran and sesame oil, for cooking300 grams round green beans, stalk end trimmed1 red capsicum, thinly slicedPork1 tablespoon each black bean and oyster sauce 2–3 teaspoons Korean gochujang sauce or other chilli sauce2 cloves garlic, crushed2 tablespoons finely shredded fresh ginger3 spring onions, white part thinly sliced, green stems reserved500 grams good pork minceTo servechopped roasted peanuts or cashew nuts and chilli saucegreen spring onion tops, thinly…

YVONNE LORKIN Dish drinks writer CAMERON DOUGLAS MS Master sommelier and lecturer at AUT JANE BOYLE Wine consultant RATING SYSTEM: GOLD Superb. Strongly recommended. SILVER A cut above the rest in quality. BRONZE A good-quality crowd pleaser. BEST BUY Wines which retail for $20 or less and earned 5-star gold-medal status. (NB: All wines are judged blind under competition conditions. The scores of judges for their own wines cannot exceed those of other judges.) Look for the Dish Tasting Panel selection sticker, which can be worn by our top wines. With thanks to Janet Blackman from the Professional Wine Studies Department and the AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism. For more on the programmes in hospitality, food and beverage, and hotel management, visit aut.ac.nz. Water kindly supplied by Antipodes.…

THE SINGLE LIFE Desiree Whitaker and her team at Cardrona Distillery have created a unique single malt vodka, and it’s fast becoming a favourite. Dubbed “The Reid:, at 44% abv and diamond-bright, it’s made using malted barley, pure Cardrona alpine water, distillers yeast and a whole heap of skill. Fermented for 72 hours, then distilled through their 7.5-metre German column still, the result is a pure, mineral-driven spirit enclosed in the faintest cloak of smoke. Glorious stuff. cardronadistillery.com ON REFLECTION The new permanent installation Under/ Understanding by New York-based designer Dror Benshetrit at the Brancott Heritage Centre in Marlborough has inspired the release of a limited-edition range of wines. Reflection is the name given to a new sauvignon blanc/sauvignon gris 2016 blend ($60) and a 2015 pinot noir ($80) with…

cruise the menu Fans of gourmet tourism and cruising need not fret. Premium cruise liner Celebrity Solstice is back in local waters for her sixth season down under, offering food and wine aficionados a stellar selection of epicurean encounters. “We pride ourselves on creating culinary experiences that bring the destinations we visit to life, and our chefs work hard to source unique local ingredients for special dishes throughout each cruise,” says Celebrity Cruises’ travelling food and beverage director, Mark Tomley. This includes adding awardwinning New Zealand wines to their wine tower - notable for being one of the largest at sea. Housing 1850 wines, all served in Riedel glassware, Kiwis, well-known for having discerning tastes, can take advantage of onboard sommeliers when choosing their drop. “Foodie film-buff” can be added…

HOW TO SUBSCRIBE: Online dish.co.nz/subs Freephone 0800 782 347 International calls +64 9 966 0999 Fax +64 9 358 0786 Email support@tangiblemedia.co.nz Postal Dish Magazine Subscriptions, Freepost 194041, PO Box 77027, Mt Albert, Auckland 1350, NZ *Terms and conditions: Competition ends 5pm, 18 March 2018. All print subscribers will go into the draw; subscribers to digitalonly editions are not eligible for entry. Winners will be notified by phone. Competition is open to New Zealand residents only. Prize is not redeemable for cash. Prize offered is not transferable. Employees and families of the publishers and the prize sponsors are ineligible for entry. WIN! Buy a 12-month print subscription to Dish and you’ll be in the draw to win a Benchtop Steam Oven plus accessories from Miele, valued at $2339* In today’s…

8 x 1-day old regular-sized croissants680-gram jar pitted cherries, well drained70 grams sliced almondsFilling100 grams butter, very soft but not melted½ cup caster sugar2 tablespoons brown sugar2 tablespoons good-quality cocoa70 grams ground almonds2 large eggs, size 7 Grease a large flat baking tray and line with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 170°C fan bake. Filling: Stir the butter and both sugars together until smooth. Beat in the cocoa, almonds and eggs. Using a bread knife, slice the croissants open like a book, leaving a “hinge” on one side so they’re not completely split in two. Cut the cherries in half and place cut-side down on kitchen towels to remove excess moisture. To assemble: Spread both cut sides of the croissant with a layer of the filling then top with…

The skirt is a cut of meat from the diaphragm muscle of the cow – it’s a long, flat cut that can be slightly tough, but has bags of flavour, and lots of intermuscular fat which keeps it moist. In this recipe, I’ve sous-vide the steaks, to lock in flavour and tenderise the meat, then finished them by searing on the barbecue to caramelise, giving you a bit of extra flavour and texture. If you have a sous vide machine at home you can, of course, use that, but it’s easy to get the same results with sealable plastic bags (make sure you choose good-quality BPA-free ones) in a water bath in your oven at a low temperature. You will need a kitchen thermometer, to make sure the temperature of…

It’s sometimes the smallest things we take for granted. Tim Hayward turns this idea on its head with his new book The Modern Kitchen, which examines the everyday items that serve us so well and yet never get their due. After reading his analysis, you’ll look at the contents of your cupboards and drawers in a whole new light. Dish chats to the UK-based author about his research and what’s in his own arsenal. Today, we regard the kitchen as the heart of our home. It’s where we get together as families, where we do the daily work of feeding ourselves and those we love. Yet the kitchen in a modern Western house is a bizarre hybrid – part leisure space, part work space – simultaneously a room and, when…

TOP WINE OF THE TASTING 1. ISABEL ESTATE Marlborough Rosé 2017 ($24.99) Gold Medal One hundred per cent Marlborough pinot noir was all that was needed to create the stand-out wine of our tasting. “Gorgeous to look at and scented with delicate maraschino cherry,” commented Jane. “It has excellent acidity and dryness – the perfect summer wine.” Cameron agreed, seeing red cherry and plum concentration, a delicately structured, beautifully balanced palate and excellent length. Yvonne thought it was possibly the best rosé she’d ever experienced, “Ultra-tangy, incredibly pretty, generous in every respect, it’s absolutely stunning.” Isabel are on a roll. 2. WAIRAU RIVER Marlborough Rosé 2017 ($20) Gold Medal One word that kept coming up in the judging team’s notes with this was “complex”. One sip and you’ll see why…

Dashwood Pass lies between the Taylor and Redwood Passes in the Awatere Valley, an area so widely planted in vineyards that, were it separated from the rest of Marlborough’s vineyard areas, would still rate as New Zealand’s second-largest wine region. Dashwood is also the namesake of the successful 31-year-old “little brother” of Vavasour Wines and as can happen, the brand has taken on a life of its own. In a suprise announcement last November, the Dashwood Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016 romped home with three of the most coveted trophies at the 2017 Air New Zealand Wine Awards. That a wine you can pick up at any supermarket for between $15–$19 could take out the Champion Reserve Wine of the Show, Champion Pinot Noir and the Dish Magazine Champion Open Red…

CHEZ ALEXANDRE Pay a visit to this delicatessen and satisfy all your cravings in the one place. This unassuming little grocer is a hidden gem, offering visitors a one-of-a-kind taste of Caledonian and French cuisine. LA MAISON BALLANDE This authentic épicerie offers a selection of gourmet goods – think Sturia caviar and delicious rillettes – from boutique French producers that’ll rival the very best of Languedoc. L’AMIRAUTÉ Discover a chic French chateau housing one of the most expansive Art Deco collections dating back 30 years. Owner and patron Guy Sanchez offers visitors a unique chance to drink, dine and enjoy a one-of-a-kind cultural experience.…