Dishの Issue 69 December/January 2016 の目次

This issue is all about celebration. First, as always, we love to discover and share stories about local food producers – we admire the hard work and dedication that goes in to creating beautiful food. With a wealth of international and local experience, Nico Bonnaud has turned his passion for chocolate into a business, Honest Chocolat. We applaud his advocacy of good-quality, sustainably produced ingredients to make his gorgeous bonbons. We also revisit the talented couple behind Cazador who have released a cookbook to commemorate the restaurant’s 30 years in business, including the five they’ve been at the helm. Like other owner-operator businesses they work incredibly hard and never compromise on what they produce. Their beautiful book is a fitting testament to the philosophy that guides them. With Christmas upon…

Lisa Morton EDITOR Growing up, my mother would make a traditional steam pudding accompanied by homemade custard and a brandy sauce – and plenty of whipped cream. Twenty cent pieces were wrapped in baking paper and tucked into every serving for us each to “discover” – which we found quite magical. These days, my Christmas tradition usually involves starting the day with a glass of champagne. It certainly gets things off to a good start. Although, often celebrations begin the day before as it’s my best friend’s birthday – so we get to have two days of festivities. Nikki Birrell DEPUTY EDITOR In my family, we do a traditional Danish Christmas Eve dinner with roast duck, caramelised potatoes and red cabbage. But the best part is the big bowl of…

Enjoy an evening with Beef + Lamb Ambassador Chef Scott Kennedy at his Palmerston North restaurant, Nero. Savour a specially prepared five-course menu available for one night only. Hear what inspires Scott to create his award-winning dishes using New Zealand beef and lamb. Don’t miss this special opportunity to indulge your senses with a unique dining experience and meet one of New Zealand’s top chefs. WHEN Thursday 8th December 2016. Arrive at 6.30 for cocktail and canapés, dinner starts at 7pm COST $125pp for five courses, including wine match and a cocktail on arrival BOOKINGS Call Nero Restaurant on 06 354 0312 or email yvetteandscott@xtra.co.nz Want to experience the top beef and lamb cuisine in New Zealand? nzexcellenceawards.co.nz…

GREEN MONDAYS Each and every Monday you’ll find a recipe from wholefood writer Kelly Gibney on our homepage. Her fresh salads and lighter takes on old favourites are a wonderful way to start the week and always simple enough to throw together after work. Her recipes are kept in a handy Green Mondays collection, which you can find at dish.co.nz. Make sure to follow her blog Bonnie Delicious for more bright ideas. AFTERNOON DELIGHT If you follow us on Instagram, Facebook or read our newsletters you may have noticed beautiful drinks popping up quite often. Our friends at Toast magazine make sure we’re never out of cocktail inspiration – keep an eye out for their refreshing recipes, all summer long. out and about If we come across a spot we…

To look at one of Nico Bonnaud’s luxurious bonbons, some of which are hand-painted in gold or flecked with white edible paint so they resemble a starry night sky, it’s easy to forget that chocolate grows on trees. But once you take a bite – cracking through the shell to reveal a velvety ganache filling – you can taste it: the fruity, earthy flavour of the humble cocoa bean. “My philosophy is that chocolate should be made of chocolate products and very little else,” explains Nico when I meet him and his wife, Emily, at their Snells Beach home. “In a way, single origin chocolate is like wine – depending on the type of bean that’s used, the soil it’s grown in and the way in which it’s harvested, there…

It’s a region we too often believe is so fraught with danger it’s just best avoided. But cookbook author Naomi Duguid is living proof that some of the countries that make up what was once the Persian empire are not only wonderful places to travel but offer cuisine that rival any foodie destination. Naomi's book, Taste of Persia: A Cook’s Travels Through Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, Iran and Kurdistan, is just a taster of what’s on offer. Naomi says of her travels, “There’s a strong culture of hospitality and generosity to the stranger all through the region. And everywhere, including in Iran, I had interesting encounters with chance-met strangers.” The author, Canadian TV show host and foodie tour guide had visited Georgia previously to do research for another of her cookbooks…

PARROT DOGS SMELL THE FLOWERS In a series of what’s possibly the prettiest line-up of beer labels I’ve seen in a long time, the three Matts at Parrot Dog Brewery have released “Flora”. It’s their tribute to the wondrous diversity of plant life in Aotearoa by way of one versatile imported crop – humulus lupulus (the common hop) – and the many varieties of IPA it has inspired. Includes: Forget-Me-Not West Coast IPA, Rata Red IPA, Wood Rose American IPA and the Kowhai Double IPA. All RRP $10.95, 500ml.  FOR GOODNESS “SAKE” Nic Watt and his expert team at Masu restaurant in Auckland have embarked on a mission to bring more of Japan’s best sake brands to New Zealand. Launched at a recent celebration of all things sake were five…

Lean cuts of pasture-raised, grass-fed New Zealand venison are full of fresh possibilities for entertaining this festive season. The zingy Asian flavours of lime, chilli and wasabi add a light and flavoursome touch to a shared platter of sautéed Silver Fern Farms Venison Medallions – a stand-out dish for summer dining. They are also a healthy and nutritious choice for feeding family and friends – 97 per cent fat free and one of the best dietary sources of iron. VENISON MEDALLIONS WITH SOY AND WASABI AND EDAMAME SALAD Ingredients 1 pack Silver Fern Farms Venison Medallions olive oil, sea salt and ground pepper 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds Dressing 2 tablespoons each soy sauce and lime juice 1 tablespoon each wasabi paste and sesame oil ¼ cup olive oil Salad…

Avocado, Broad Bean and Goat’s Cheese Salad I have seen a few iterations of salad with these components – the thing I love about this version is the addition of both crumbled salty feta and torn milky fresh mozzarella to contrast the peppery watercress, fresh herbs and sweet peas and beans. The final touch is a sprinkling of chilli flakes and dukkah for heat and texture. 2 cups broad beans 1 cup frozen peas few sprigs mint 2 tablespoons olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice 1 teaspoon caster sugar 6 cups baby watercress or other salad greens 2 large avocados, sliced 350 grams buffalo mozzarella, torn into chunks 200 grams feta, crumbled ¾ cup fresh mint leaves 2 tablespoons roughly chopped dill sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ½…

YOUR BEST BARISTA Nespresso has made the barista-style coffee even more achievable with the new Creatista. Thanks to its unique automatic steam wand technology, this revolutionary machine lets you choose a preferred texture and temperature to create silkysmooth milk. And to make sure all your Christmas dreams come true, Nespresso has also created three limited-edition variations for the festive season. Inspired by the coffee-house traditions of Vienna, they evoke the taste of its most famous pastries – apfelstrudel, linzertorte and sacher torte. $11.30 per sleeve of 10. $899 for Creatista Plus and $799 for Creatista. nespresso.com The heat is on Fisher & Paykel DCS Outdoor Grills are designed to complement any outdoor environment – whether it's fully built into your outdoor kitchen or placed on an optional mobile Stainless Steel…

CHRISTMAS CRACKER Give the festive table a makeover with subtle hues that nod to tradition but keep things fresh and modern. SUMMER FEELS They were top of our lick-list last summer and with their latest release of premium icy pops, Dr Feelgood are top of the list again this year. Their new collection features Lewis Road Creamery pure organic milks lovingly crafted into flavours such as Chocolate and Raspberry Jellytop, Passionfruit White Chocolate Jellytop, Banoffee and Chocoholic. To sit alongside these old-fashioned creamy delights, they’ve also produced two gorgeous dairy-free icy pops in Cosmic Cola and Old Fashioned Pink Lemonade. Free of refined sugar, these frozen delights are a must-have for freezers this sunny season. drfeelgood.co.nz  INSEPARABLE HUIA A pair of huia, beaks almost touching, photographed by celebrated New Zealand…

Spice Health Heroes BY NATASHA MACALLER They may be small in quantity but spices can take a dish from average to spectacular. In this beautifully photographed book (shot by none other than Dish photographer Manja Wachsmuth), you’ll find more than 80 recipes that celebrate these aromatic ingredients as the heroes they are. Chapters are split into the properties the spices hold: Immune, Cleansing, Energy, Warming, Restorative and Calming. And at the beginning of each is a description of the spices included within that chapter and a bit about their history and how to put them to best use. Above each recipe, there is a list of which spices star – the recipes themselves are stunning in their presentation and there are contributions from 20 guest chefs, including our own Peter…

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Lewis Road Creamery organic cream is an everyday indulgence in my household. With both their Organic Single Cream and the Organic Double Cream, the beauty lies in its exquisite simplicity. My family and I choose these high-quality dairy products because we trust the care and light touch put into the production. Lewis Road’s Organic Double Cream is a true double cream, made the old fashioned way and free from gelatin and other thickeners. Its richness is unparalleled. I enjoy cream in my coffee every morning (forget about saving that as a weekends-only treat) I drizzle it on my daughter’s porridge and in the evening you’ll often find me curled up with a bowl of fresh berries and double cream. For evenings, when we’re craving a more substantial pudding or if…

What inspired you to start your food blog From the Kitchen? Four years ago, I worked for Annabel Langbein doing recipe development, food styling for her website, books and magazines and managing her social media. I became excited at the idea of being able to take a recipe from the very nub of an idea, through development, styling and photography – to flow through the whole creative process. Often when I‘m thinking about writing a recipe I will be imagining how it will look and photograph at the same time. From the Kitchen gave me an opportunity to hone my skills and share my ideas. I love interacting with people who come to the blog, it’s such a buzz to be able to share my love of cooking. What does…

Herb and Goat’s Cheese Stuffed Chicken in Maple Bacon Chicken thigh meat gets a cheesy herb stuffing then wrapped in maple-glazed bacon, keeping the meat tender and juicy. 6 large boneless chicken thighs, skin off 400 grams streaky bacon 3 fresh bay leaves, optional maple syrup, for brushing Stuffing 100 grams baby spinach ½ cup frozen baby peas, thawed 2 cloves garlic, crushed finely grated zest 1 lemon 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted ½ cup each parsley and basil leaves ¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs, gluten-free or regular 100 grams soft goat’s or feta cheese sea salt and ground pepper Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Stuffing: Place the spinach in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Stir to wilt then drain well. Refresh in cold water then…

Chai Toddy Christmas Cake Packed with fragrant spices, sticky fruit, rich dark chocolate and a generous amount of booze, this should appeal to even those who think they aren’t keen on Christmas cake. Fruit 200ml very strong brewed English breakfast tea ⅓ cup rum 400 grams mixed dried fruit ⅓ cup orange marmalade 2 tablespoons golden syrup finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon and 1 orange Cake 175 grams butter, at room temperature 1 cup packed brown sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 large eggs, size 7, lightly beaten 1¾ cups plain flour 1¼ teaspoons baking powder 1½ teaspoons each ground cinnamon, cardamom and ginger ½ teaspoon each ground cloves, nutmeg and black pepper 150 grams dark chocolate, 62% cocoa, roughly chopped (I used Whittaker’s Fijian Ginger and Mandarin)…

Spiced Raw Almond Cream Almonds make a great change from using chickpeas in a dip but do need to be soaked first. I’ve served it with a topping of puffed quinoa and bowls of corn chips. 1 cup raw blanched almonds, soaked for 24 hours in cold water ½ cup water 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 red onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 teaspoon curry powder 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ cup sour cream Paprika Oil, recipe below, and Ceres Organics Quinoa Puffs, to serve sea salt and ground pepper Drain the almonds and place in a blender with the water and vinegar. Season generously and blend until very smooth and thick. Leave in the blender. Heat the oil…

Plum and Lime Cheesecake Pots I love the tang that lime brings to this dessert but lemons work equally well. Fresh berries and sliced stone fruit are also delicious instead of the plums. 250 grams cream cheese, at room temperature (I used Philadelphia) 200 grams condensed milk ½ cup thick plain yoghurt finely grated zest 2 large limes ¼ cup lime juice To assemble 1 large tin black doris plums, halved and pitted 6 plain digestive biscuits or plain shortbread biscuits, roughly crushed Beat the cream cheese until very smooth and creamy. Add the condensed milk, yoghurt, and lime zest and juice and beat until light and airy. To assemble: Put the plums, cut-side down on kitchen towels to absorb excess juice. Sprinkle a layer of biscuit crumbs in the…

NOTES FOR COOKS To ensure successful results in cooking, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools – measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric. Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up. Dish uses: A fan-forced oven unless otherwise specified Large eggs (No.7) Level spoons and cup measurements Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups. NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml) USEFUL INGREDIENT EQUIVALENTS Breadcrumbs 1 cup fresh = 50 grams 1 cup dried = 115 grams Butter 1 (American) stick = 100 grams 1 cup = 225 grams 2 tablespoons = 30 grams Cheese…

NOVEMBER Every week from Sunday 6th GOURMET IN THE GARDENS – HAMILTON Find food from around the world on offer at this outdoor market – bring the family and something comfortable to sit on and enjoy. Kicking off at 4pm, it’s the perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Walk off your dinner with a stroll around the renowned Hamilton Gardens or sit back and enjoy the live entertainment. Search for Gourmet in the Gardens on Facebook to stay in the loop. Every week from Thursday 24th DINNER IN THE DOMAIN – TAURANGA Enjoy local beer from Mount Brewing Co and a selection of food such as paella, tacos, slow-cooked pork and gourmet burgers at the Papamoa Domain. Held every Thursday during summer, you can watch food demonstrations by top…

Why beer over any other potential blog topic? Aside from the fact beer is delicious, I found the whole craft beer movement incredibly exciting. When I started the blog in 2011, craft beer was starting to gain serious momentum and a lot of today’s top craft breweries were just getting established. You could sense a revolution of sorts was underway, and yet a lot of people didn’t really know about it. And, for me, it was a much more appealing subject than say, jogging, or green juices. What was the most interesting thing you learned about beer? Probably the fact that so many diverse beer styles can be made from just water, barley, hops and yeast. They’re really incredibly basic ingredients, yet brewers can use them to produce chocolatey stouts,…

I fully understand people who say they love artichokes but find the preparation too fiddly. I’m not going to lie to you – they are fiddly. When I lived in Genova I used to buy them ready to cook from my local market. During spring months an old woman sitting on a stool hacking the tops and outer leaves off artichokes was a common sight. They’d be transferred to a bucket of water full of squeezed lemons as they were done. Your purchase would be put into a plastic bag (not always leak-proof) and off you’d go to cook them in your own kitchen, the hard work done for you. To say I learned how to prepare artichokes by watching how the stallholders did it is only partly true, because…

It can sometimes feel like there’s a new eatery opening every week in Auckland. But it can also feel like there’s one closing. So for a restaurant to have been on the scene for nearly 30 years is pretty special – for it to be the only game food offering in the city and a little off the beaten path is nothing short of amazing. The team behind Cazador, Rebecca Smidt and Dariush Lolaiy, are only just starting to realise just how significant their restaurant is on the New Zealand dining landscape. And it was working on a new cookbook, which commemorates and celebrates Cazador’s evolution, that helped this couple realise the rare gem they have on their hands. “There’s nothing quite like it, which, in writing the book, is…

Growing up in Portland, Oregon, it wasn’t always Hannah Miller’s dream to become a butcher. In fact, when studying to become a chef at The Culinary Institute of America in New York, she fell asleep in the butchery class. “At 18, 7am was really early in the morning and between that and the fact it was so technical, with mostly pictures and slideshows, it was like the most boring thing I’d ever heard in my life,” she says. HOW TO EAT MEAT Hannah’s advice for eating charcuterie: “These cuts are really meant to be savoured. Eat it slowly. You should put it on your tongue for a second or two, especially pork products, and then chew and swallow – that way you’re allowing it to warm up to your temperature…

THE JUDGES YVONNE LORKIN (Dish drinks writer) JANE BOYLE (Wine consultant) CAMERON DOUGLAS MS (Senior lecturer AUT and Master Sommelier) JAMES ROWAN (Winemaker at Westbrook) RATING SYSTEM: GOLD Superb. Strongly recommended. SILVER A cut above the rest in quality. BRONZE A good-quality crowd pleaser. BEST BUY status is given to wines that normally retail for under $25 (NB: All wines are judged blind and the scores of judges for their own wines cannot exceed those of other judges.) Look for the Dish Tasting Panel selection sticker, which can be worn by our top wines. With thanks to Janet Blackman from the Professional Wine Studies Department and the AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism. For more on the programmes in hospitality, food and beverage, and hotel managemen, visit aut.ac.nz. Water kindly supplied…

Pani Puri with Spiced Potatoes and Tamarind Chutney A popular street food in Mumbai, I’ve filled these crisp little shells with one of my favourite spiced potato recipes then topped them with a tart tamarind chutney and cooling mint and coconut relish. Spiced potatoes 500 grams agria potatoes, peeled and diced 1cm pieces 2 tablespoons olive oil small knob of butter ½ teaspoon each cumin seeds, yellow and black mustard seeds 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground garam masala sea salt and ground pepper Mint and coconut relish ½ cup packed mint leaves pinch chilli flakes 2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts 2 tablespoons desiccated coconut ½ teaspoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons lime juice 1 tablespoon vegetable oil ⅓–½ cup plain yoghurt sea salt and pepper To assemble pani puri…

Prosciutto, Plum, Broadbean, Goat Feta and Baby Kale Salad This pretty salad is lovely for lunch and also sits beautifully on a Christmas table. It has a lovely balance of sweetness, salty richness and fresh crunch with a nice range of textures. 1 cup frozen broadbeans 100 grams baby kale leaves (you can also use rocket) 1 large plum, stone removed and sliced (you can also use a peach or nectarine) 100 grams goat feta 60 grams prosciutto Dressing 1 garlic clove, finely diced juice of 1 lemon 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon coconut sugar sea salt and ground pepper To serve fresh basil leaves Place the broadbeans in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 5 minutes before draining. Remove the bright green bean from…

Balsamic Strawberries and Ginger Semifreddo No-churn semifreddo is always a popular dessert, as well as being easy on the cook. I like to cook the strawberries first otherwise they tend to freeze rock hard when added raw. 500 grams strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped (about 2 containers) ½ cup caster sugar 1 tablespoon balsamic glaze or top-quality balsamic vinegar ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 200 grams mascarpone 200 grams creme fraiche 4 large eggs, size 7 ⅔ cup caster sugar, divided 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 5 gingernut biscuits, roughly crushed Lightly grease a shallow 33cm x 23cm tin and line fully with a double layer of plastic wrap, leaving an overhang down each side Put the strawberries, sugar, balsamic glaze or vinegar and the pepper in a medium saucepan.…

You never forget your first time. Mine happened in a tiny hole-in-the-wall cafe in an even tinier alleyway in Shanghai. There, among steaming bowls of noodles and roasted pigs strung up like garlands, shiny in their soy sauce duvet, I was introduced to the delights of xiao long bao (pronounced “shaow long bow”). Otherwise known as soup dumplings, these squat steamed parcels of aromatic pork or crab are encased in a hand-rolled layer of pastry and topped with precisely 18 “pleats”. They look harmless enough but don’t be fooled, they can be like a culinary hand grenade: lurking between the savoury filling and the pastry is a layer of hot fishy broth that can explode in the face of unsuspecting diners. My guide, Kyle Long, says there’s a way of…

Meringue 6 large egg whites (size 7 eggs) 1½ cups caster sugar 1 tablespoon cornflour 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon vanilla paste or extract ½ cup whole skin-on roasted almonds, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon cocoa (I used Valrhona) To assemble 300ml cream, softly whipped 2 punnets fresh raspberries ½ cup sliced almonds, toasted dark chocolate for grating icing sugar for dusting Grease 2 large, flat baking trays and line with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 120°C fan bake. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks then gradually add the sugar. Whisk until very thick and glossy and the sugar is fully dissolved. Undissolved sugar will cause the meringue to weep. Sift the cornflour and nutmeg together over the top of the meringue then…