deliciousの June 2017 の目次

IN A COMPLICATED WORLD, food brings people together. It helps us celebrate what unites different cultures rather than focusing on the things that drive us apart. This month, our annual ‘global’ issue is a technicolour feast, charting trending destinations and cuisines. There’s an explosion of colour and flavour from Porto to Peru, Mexico to China, India to America. We’ve explored humble ingredients that are beloved around the world – rice, beans and honey – and given them uniquely global translations. Indian cuisine, while steeped in tradition, has never been more current, as seen in Anjum Anand’s story on page 88. As more of us embrace vegetarianism, tofu has come to the fore – and Matt Wilkinson is, of course, there to make magic with it (inspired by a trip to…

ONE-POT BUTTER CHICKEN WITH DILL YOGHURT SERVES 4-6 1 tbs olive oil 6 chicken thighs (bone in, skin on) 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 4cm piece (20g) ginger, finely grated 50g unsalted butter 1 tbs tandoori paste 2 tbs tomato paste 2 cups (500ml) chicken stock 400g can chopped tomatoes 1/2 cup (125ml) coconut cream 2 cups (560g) thick Greek-style yoghurt 1/2 cup dill fronds, roughly chopped Juice of 1 lemon 1 telegraph cucumber, sliced into rounds 2 long green chillies, thinly sliced Roti, lime and micro coriander, to serve SPICE MIX 1 tsp each ground cumin, ground ginger, smoked paprika (pimenton), ground coriander seeds, ground turmeric, ground cinnamon and dried mint 1 tsp each fenugreek and caraway seeds, toasted, ground 1/4 tsp each ground cloves and…

A MELTING POT doesn’t even begin to describe the scintillating blend of flavours on display at Nour. The luminous Sydney restaurant, which opened its glass doors on Crown Street, Surry Hills, last year, is dedicated to showcasing modern Lebanese fare, but Israeli-born chef Roy Ner has the bandwidth for so much more. “Middle Eastern cuisine stretches back 3000 years,” he says. “Our menu touches on Israeli, Tunisian, Yemenite, even North African styles.” In Ner’s capable hands, and as the recipes on these pages attest, Lebanese food is also resolutely current, seasonal and accessible. Ner developed his skills at Aria in Sydney, where he spent seven years as sous chef. That experience, combined with his avidity for Levantine cooking, yields many exceptional dishes at Nour. Prawn falafel might be the most…

FIRE IS ONE OF THE most powerful of natural forces. Its warming embrace is what ignited our ability to cook food and change not only our diets, but also our capacity to think, create and evolve. Correspondingly, it is a fierce and destructive force. When Melbourne’s adored Stokehouse burnt down, there was a genuine sense that the city had lost a member of the family. Its rebuild felt like a matter of state pride as much as anything else. However, it has emerged from the ashes as a very different proposition to the reliable local patronised by well-heeled St Kilda diners. I’ll concede it’s harder to be critical when nature is wooing you with a hazy horizon and ripples of deep blue that gently kiss the shoreline. The new black…

BACK IN MY TEACHING days I had the privilege of taking some students to Europe. We had the best time, made many treasured memories and ate lots of new food. More recently, I was with my sister in Bruges, Belgium, where we just about ate our weight in moules frites . Back home, we re-created many versions of this national treasure, and I don’t think there was one we didn’t enjoy. For this month’s recipe, I’ve given moules frites an Aussie makeover. I love pairing seafood with fruit, and here I’ve used apples – instead of serving it with beer, I’m cooking with apple cider. We’re producing such a wide variety of wonderful ciders at the moment, including some great lower-carb ones that are fabulous to cook with. And instead…

LAST NOVEMBER WE SPENT five days in Tokyo with friends for my wife’s birthday, to celebrate the only way we know how – with non-stop eating. Beforehand, I had the pleasure of meeting Nancy Singleton Hachisu (author and font of wisdom on Japanese cuisine) at Pope Joan through Michael Dalton, owner of Fino Foods, who then travelled with us. Alongside was Mami Kitani, the president of Yamaki Jozo, a company growing organic soy, rice and buckwheat, and making organic soy products. Mami took us to a village in Saitama, surrounded by organic vegetable growers, to see how they work with soy. We tried soy doughnuts, soy ice cream with soy sauce – you name it – before trying different tofus and tofu curd. Rich and creamy, the curd inspired a…

One of the questions I am asked the most (even by my mother) is where I get the inspiration to write book after book on Indian food. That is the easy bit. I have been very lucky to have spent months and months in India, travelling and eating, and talking and learning about the regional food. I have countless memories of eating chaat (savoury snacks) on the streets with my cousins and, later, kebabs on the streets with my friends of eating in the homes of friends from different communities, and dining in some of the best restaurants and dhabas (simple streetfood-style cafes) around the country. I have eaten dishes that we have never heard about outside of India, such as spicy meat pickles; curries made from sorrel; puffed, roasted…

“COSY UP TO A SWEET TREAT SPIKED WITH ST CKY, GOLDEN HONEY. INSPIRED BY OUR GLOBAL THEME, THESE DESSERTS ARE FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND WILL F LL YOUR HOME WITH THE DEL CIOUS AROMAS OF ROASTED HONEY AND BUTTERY PASTRY.” @s.coutts Download our enhanced App for Cook Mode PORTUGUESE TART WITH STICKY CINNAMON HONEY SERVES 8-10 This rich, honey-spiked Portuguese tart is the perfect size for entertaining. You will need a sugar thermometer and a kitchen blowtorch. 375g sheet frozen all-butter puff pastry (we used Carême – 52cm x 26cm sheet), thawed 240g caster sugar 2 tsp ground cinnamon 2 cups (500ml) milk 1/2 cup (125ml) pure (thin) cream 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped Pared zest of 1 lemon 70g plain flour, plus extra to dust 300g…

We take a seat in one of the gold-trimmed carriages of the Inca Rail and are greeted with lively music, setting the scene for dancing a little later to the sound of charangos (a small stringed instrument). The train creaks out of the station and heaves over narrow tracks. Cutlery clangs, glasses tinkle and horns blow; we are on our way to Machu Picchu. In Peru you can immerse yourself in incredible history and colourful culture while enjoying all the comforts of the 21st century. Well known for its ancient ruins, the country has more recently had a bit of an ‘ah-ha’ moment in the culinary world. Peruvians celebrate their pre-Incan roots through the food they eat every day. The abundance of produce is championed by restaurants and street vendors,…

 TRAVEL INSPIRES ME . Immersing myself in different cultures and new experiences feeds my creativity as a chef, and I’ve been lucky enough to have eaten incredible food all over the world. But one place I’d never visited was America’s Deep South – until now. “NEW ORLEANS IS ABUZZ WITH THE THINGS THAT MAKE LIFE WORTH LIVING – EATING, DRINKING AND CULTURE.” The Deep South is a place that swirls with vivid images of history, food and music. For me, the only real way to experience it was through a road trip in a vintage Ford Mustang. Our trip started in St. Louis, Missouri. And what else would we stop for first but barbecue, one of the South’s most iconic culinary institutions. Barbecue takes many forms in this part of…

A MULTITUDE OF CHOCOLATE milkshakes made me the man I am today: that’s right, round and with a sweet centre. Yes, back in the day I’d do just about anything for a Milo, Ovaltine, Oak or Moove, not to mention a chocolate thickshake from McDonald’s. Surprisingly, when I land at South Australia’s Mayura Station, one of a handful of Australian Full Blood Wagyu farms, an odd revelation has me reminiscing of my milkshake diet way back. “We feed the cattle a chocolate ration,” says owner Scott De Bruin. “Wait, what?” I ask. “Yep, chocolate is part of their diet,” he confirms with a grin. “Do the cows produce chocolate milk?” I have to ask. “Ha, no, but they certainly love their ration,” he confirms. I’ll get to the chocolate shortly.…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH I swapped the paneer for almond fetta in Jamie Oliver’s mushroom curry (April 17, p 84 ) and popped it in a pie to keep my little year 12 vegan happy! @colleen_dickson_ TAKE THE CAKE: It’s a tough call each year for me to decide which of delicious. ’s annual Easter, Christmas or Italian issues are the best. The recipes from these are the ones I come back to most often, but this could be your best Easter issue yet (April 17). Can’t wait to test out the baklava chicken wings, the skirt steak with green hummus and the baked goat’s curd cheesecake Vanessa Altmann TOP NOTCH: We just can’t get enough of the restaurant-quality meals from delicious. Ever since we started subscribing two…

MENU Caraway grissini, mushroom caramel Brown butter emulsion, roses Celeriac tacos Cauliflower gratin Spanner crab, Jerusalem artichokes, hazelnuts Coq au biere Part of a suckling pig, whey onions, cheese broth, kale oil Molasses, juicing carrots, ricotta, grape TWO OF QUEENSLAND’S BRIGHTEST culinary stars are coming together at GOMA – Josue ‘Josh’ Lopez’s restaurant at Queensland Art Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art – for an inventive dinner overlooking the Brisbane River. Joining Josue in his kitchen is Cameron Matthews, head chef of the award-winning Long Apron at Spicers Clovelly Estate. Together, the talented pair will deliver ‘Wasted’ – a dining experience where they turn food ‘waste’ into gourmet cuisine. Snacks of caraway grissini and mushroom caramel, brown butter emulsion and roses, and celeriac tacos kick off the night. They’re followed…

SWORDFISH A firm, meaty fish rich in heart-healthy oils, swordfish has been known to strike fear into the hearts of those with mercury concerns, but fortunately government guidelines recommend moderation rather than abstinence. Unlike more delicate seafood, it’s robust enough to be teamed with strong flavours, and won’t flake apart in a chargrill pan or on a barbecue. MANDARINS Popular with parents for being the fruit least likely to come home in kids’ lunch boxes, mandarins are the neater, sweeter citrus. Use in place of oranges and choose varieties with fewer seeds, such as Imperial or Afourer. GRANNY SMITHS The humble Granny Smith may not be the sexiest apple on the shelf, but it’s certainly one of the most versatile. Crisp, firm and a little tart, it beats the rest…

It’s often the little things that make a difference in life – and for many people, a great coffee would rate as a favourite everyday luxury. The Nespresso Essenza Mini is the company’s smallest-ever machine and it delivers a big reward – a rich, well-balanced espresso or lungo (Italian for “long”) – without taking up too much bench space. Partner the machine with a Nespresso Aeroccino milk frother and you have all you need to make the perfect flat white. As well as its good looks, the Essenza Mini is energy efficient, the aluminium coffee capsules are recyclable and Nespresso works directly with coffee farmers around the world to implement sustainable practices. THE SIMPLE LIFE How to declutter your world without compromising on the important things. Taking a minimalist approach…

WITH THIS MENU I’M celebrating dishes that we serve at Ricky & Pinky – it’s a modern take on the classics, but the recipes, techniques and flavours are still very authentic. The dishes are light and clean, and the flavour combinations have been interpreted subtly, but the flavours are bright. The steamed chicken is one of my favourite things to eat – I find myself steaming a chicken before I roast it now, and serving it with rice. A lot of my comfort food at home is based on Chinese cooking. I’ve chosen recipes where the ingredients are readily available, although it’s worth finding good Chinese sausage for the crispy rice cake recipe. We make our own air-dried version at our butcher shop, Meatsmith. And there’s a dried ginger from…

I M GOING TO TELL it to you straight – you don’t eat enough beans. When you look at other countries, many of which have incredible associations with health and longevity, beans are up there as one of their celebrated ingredients. As I write this, I’m in the mountains of Tuscany where beans are standard fare. The sheer variety on offer is huge, and don’t get me started on taste, texture, shape and versatility. So why not refresh your pantry? Whether canned, jarred, fresh or dried, beans are an incredible source of protein, complex carbs and fibre. Generally speaking, they contain a whole cocktail of nutrients your body will thank you for. Plus, 80 grams of beans or pulses (about three tablespoons) count as one portion of your five-a-day. And…

AFTER THE COLOURFUL RIOT of fruit-laden summer desserts, autumn and winter sweets can sometimes seem dull in comparison. For me, though, there is nothing quite like the joy that is a homemade hot pudding. This month, I have embarked on a global journey to explore traditional desserts from other countries, adding my own twist to them along the way. Having always been a fan of sticky toffee pudding, the South African version, Malva pudding, became a new favourite. I just love its super-light sponge and rich toffee sauce. A Scandi-inspired rice pudding with a strawberry sauce has also become a regular in my house, with leftovers making a welcome appearance for breakfast the next day. The unusual pairing of chocolate and stout have come together deliciously in a chocolate pudding…

THE SORCERER Australian expat Ashley Sutton (right) is regarded as the Tim Burton of bar design. The Bangkok-based wunderkind, originally from Fremantle in Western Australia, has hatched a series of magical, multi-layered lounges in his adopted city, as well as Tokyo and Hong Kong. What unites these disparate venues is a penchant for industrial fittings, secret passageways, vintage Chinoiserie and gravity-defying elements, including vials of ‘fairy dust’ suspended from the ceiling. Next up is a fourth branch of Iron Fairies in Malaysia, a speakeasy in Vietnam and a resort on a remote Cambodian island. BALINESE BREEZE Seminyak has long lured visitors to Bali, but nearby Canggu is emerging as a hip new locale. One reason is The Slow, a recent arrival from Australian designer George Gorrow, which combines sleek lodgings,…

Sugar, and its happy by-product, rum, may be Bundaberg’s most famous exports, but the rich, red earth of the North Burnett region supports an impressively large horticulture industry. From The Hummock, the highest point in these parts, you can look out over patchwork fields that stretch to the horizon. Not only sugar cane, but farms producing sweet potatoes, tomatoes, blueberries, beans, brassicas, ginger, melons and strawberries, as well as orchards of lychees, macadamias, pecans and citrus. To the east is the Coral Sea, where the local fishing fleet trawls for reef fish and prawns, while further north is cattle and dairy country. Bundaberg sits serenely in the midst of this abundance; a gracious city with a surprisingly cosmopolitan air, thanks to the united nations of backpackers who come to work…

“A mix of subtle, earthy, strong and rich flavours as in this menu needs wines that can both complement and cut through, which the rosé, chardonnay and riesling we’ve chosen will do perfectly.” Dylan Lee Bird in Hand Winery senior winemaker COMFORT FOOD WINTER WARMERS Beetroot, feta & mandarin salad with date dressing Bird in Hand Pinot Nero Rosé 2016 Chicken a la Normande Bird in Hand Chardonnay 2016 Rich rice pudding with strawberries and cream Bird in Hand Honeysuckle Riesling 2016 There s a pan-Asian vibe to this menu that makes me reach for aromatic whites and textural white blends. Fresh, fun, flirty drinking gets the big tick here.” Mike Bennie, drinks writer EASTERN FEAST TASTES OF ASIA Gai lan with pine nut sauce and sesame Ashton Hills…

“Transition Farm began nine years ago when we bought the one-hectare property to run a community-supported agriculture farm on the Mornington Peninsula. The company is just my family and me,” says Peter. “I didn’t know anything about the Produce Awards, but Paul Wilson found us and insisted we should enter last year. The Brode Galeux D’Eysines pumpkin wasn’t grown to win an award (it won the From the Earth category); it is the food we like to grow and eat. This year we grew about 120, but we grow more than 50 crops through the year, which ensures we have fresh fruit and veg 30 weeks of the year for the families who buy our farm boxes. “We grow everything here biodynamically, in the most natural way possible, and we…

MEXICAN – CHRISTOPHE ET FILS CHABLIS 2016, $45 (CHABLIS, FRANCE) Chablis is typically taut, refreshing, mineral-charged, and electric with crunchy acidity and fresh fruitiness. This producer is one of the best, and the wine will cool the palate against the heat and punch of Mexican cuisine’s inherent flavours. PERUVIAN – BILLY BUTTON THE HAPPY GEWURZTRAMINER 2016, $25 (ALPINE VALLEYS, VIC) A good match should take the spices of Peruvian dishes into consideration. I like gewurztraminer in such situations, and this is one of Australia’s best. Gently sweet, clean, spicy and dry. CHINESE – TYRRELL’S HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON 2016, $25 (HUNTER VALLEY, NSW) Like duck and pinot noir, Chinese meals and Hunter semillon seem to be a holy alliance. The lemony tang and zestiness of…

FOR TOO LONG, WINTER has been vilified as the bleakest season, but I say fie to this! I use this archaic word advisedly – basically it was a way of calling b******t on a widely held belief – because winter is the season when old favourites really come into their own, not just because of their comfort and taste, but also because they can be easier. YOUR OVEN IS READY AND WAITING Hello, old friend. Whether it’s a slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, a thick stew or a favourite casserole, prep time is minimal and the oven does the donkey work. It’s the same when it comes to cakes, biscuits and slices, which go so well with a pot of tea and an open fire. THE TIME IS NOT IN THE…

“THESE HEALTHY TWISTS ON MEXICAN STAPLES ARE FULL OF NOURISHING WINTER INGREDIENTS, FRAGRANT SPICES AND CLEANSING CITRUS. BROWN RICE SOAKS UP SLOW-COOKED CHICKEN SAUCE, LETTUCE LEAVES LIGHTEN TACOS AND GUACAMOLE GETS AN OVERHAUL, WHICH, MINUS THE CORN CHIPS, YOU CAN OVERINDULGE IN AS MUCH AS YOU LIKE.” SPICY CHORIZO ENCHILADAS SERVES 6-8 1 tbs olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 1 /2 long red chillies, finely chopped 1 chorizo, casing removed, crumbled 1 tsp each smoked paprika (pimenton), ground cumin, ground coriander seeds and dried oregano 400g can lentils, rinsed, drained 2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes 300g fresh ricotta 2 tbs finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve Micro parsley and micro…

FINE WINE AND RUGBY may seem incongruous, but for ex-Wallabies no. 8 David Lyons, one led to the other. A move to Paris to play for Stade Francais resulted in a love affair with French food and wine, and from there, importing little-known artisanal French wines to Australia via his new company, French Vine. Now retired from playing, he and wife Justine gather at friends Sally and Christopher Riggert’s house in Sydney’s Woollahra to celebrate the venture’s launch, the menu matched to French Vine’s flagship Champagne, Leclerc Briant. “We haven’t had a really well-made organic Champagne in Australia,” says David, who won 44 caps for the Wallabies. “Leclerc Briant are all about purity, and you can taste the freshness.” David’s ties with chefs and restaurateurs in the French capital inform…

“THE CULINARY TREASURE THAT IS RICE HAS DIFFERENT RENDITIONS IN EVERY CORNER OF THE WORLD, FROM EGYPT WHERE FRAGRANT KOSHARI IS THE STAR, TO CROWDED INDONESIA WHERE NASI LEMAK IS A DELICIOUS REPAST, OR VIA ITALY’S SOUL-WARMING RISOTTO. THESE ARE ALL FAST AND WILL KEEP YOU COSY ON COLD NIGHTS, SO JUMP IN.” CHINA PORK AND EGG DAN DAN RICE SERVES 2 1/3 cup (80ml) sunflower oil 2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns (from Asian food shops), coarsely ground 500g pork mince 1 tbs light soy sauce 2 dried long red chillies, seeds removed, torn 3 spring onions, chopped, plus extra finely chopped spring onion to serve 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbs tahini 1 tbs dark soy sauce 2 tsp Chinese black (chinkiang) vinegar (from Asian food shops) 1 tbs chilli…

Porto is having a moment as one of Europe’s coolest destinations. From its beautiful ceramic-tiled buildings to the venerable port lodges that lie along the glorious Douro River that bisects it, this hilly city is startlingly beautiful and culturally rich. It’s Portugal’s second-largest city, with an urban population nudging 1.8 million, but it’s compact, walkable and full of tempting bars, cafes and restaurants to linger in along the way. Its historic centre is UNESCO World Heritage-listed and remains charmingly authentic, with narrow alleys packed full of colourful houses seemingly about to topple into the Douro. Go there to eat and drink across the spectrum – from the signature port, excellent Douro Valley wines and some masterful high-end dining, to the simplicity of pastel de nata (Portuguese tart) and the city’s…

1. Jasmine & Will Turkish towel, $65, jasmineandwill.com 2. Williams-Sonoma ‘Japanese Garden’ salad plates (mixed set of 4), $72, williams-sonoma.com.au 3. Prada sunglasses, $650, 1300 655 612 4. Lucy Folk ‘Rock Formation’ earrings in royal blue, $325, lucyfolk.com 5. La Prairie White Caviar Illuminating Moisturising Cream, $630, laprairie.com.au 6. Stitch & Hide ‘Christina’ wallet in ocean, $109.95, 123home.net.au 7. Raine & Humble oven glove in blue gingham, $12.95, 123home.net.au 8. 3CE ‘White Milk’ sleeping mask, $33, sephora.com.au 9. Four Pillars Navy Strength Gin, $100, fourpillarsgin.com 10. Eva Trio ‘Legio Nova’ jug, $39.95, until.com.au 11. Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot Duet Makeup Remover, $39, napoleonperdis.com 12. Miu Miu L’Eau Bleue eau de parfum 50ml, $130, 1800 812 663 13. Raine & Humble Criss Cross/Multi Grid tea towel pack in blue (set of 2), $19.95, 123home.net.au 14. Pumpy Jackson coconut chocolate…

wine not Sick of seeing friends post ‘from where you’d rather be’? Why not let the party come to you with Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley range. Showcasing the key varieties of the region, each one will have you feeling like you’re the one on holiday. Visit: tyrrells.com.au cook’s companion Cook like a pro with the new Smeg 90cm Thermoseal Freestanding Cooker. Its timeless design, Venturi atmospheric control technology and dynamic airflow will have you producing chef-quality dishes on a daily basis. Visit: smeg.com.au rock and roll Helga’s have unwrapped the secret to enjoyable, healthy eating with their Traditional White Wraps. Containing no artificial preservatives and with 50% of your daily wholegrain target, they are the perfect meal addition. Visit: helgas.com.au just purr-fect Keep your cat feline fine with the Fancy Feast…