Decanterの October 2015 の目次

Deadly vine disease bacteria hits France Photograph: Emanuele Mazzoni/Alamy FRANCE BACTERIA KNOWN to cause a vine disease which has blighted California’s vineyards for years has now been discovered in France for the first time. The xylella fastidiosa bacteria was detected on Corsica, about 18 months after its first recorded appearance in Europe, in olive groves in Italy. The find prompted a fierce reaction from Europe’s plant protection organisation (EPPO), which said that ‘eradication measures have been immediately implemented’. Xylella fastidiosa is the source of Pierce’s Disease, a lethal vine condition that has caused serious damage in California’s vineyards, where it costs US$104m (£67m) a year. European Union officials said the bacteria was ‘a major risk to EU territory’. But French government vine expert Jacques Grosman told Vitisphere.com there was ‘a…

Letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Then write, email or fax us: The Editor, Decanter , Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK. Email: editor@decanter.com. Fax: +44 (0)20 3148 8129. Alcohol prejudice FOR MANY YEARS Decanter has been at the frontline of the lower alcohol wines crusade. Your columnists and editors keep trying to persuade readers that lower alcohol wines always have more charm, freshness and terroir character. You often stress that wines with lower alcohol should pair better with food. It’s obvious this became a cornerstone of your ideology, one of foundations of your wine values system. So I took some time to analyse this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards results. And these show that your true taste differs from your proclaimed values. Fourteen…

What I’ve been drinking this month A week in Burgundy is always a treat – and especially so in the bright light and warmth which typified the end of June 2015. We drank as well as tasted. Cathiard’s Vosne-Romanée 2009 was perfumed, open, glowing; Roumier’s Chambolle-Musigny 2011 was fresh and elegant, and oddly almost better than the more expensive Les Cras Premier Cru from the same vintage and source a day or two later. My surprise favourite, though, was Roger Belland’s Le Cras, Pommard 2013 (a lieux-dit, not a premier cru, in this village), unexpectedly dark, fleshy, exciting and vital.…

TERROIR FOCUS Undurraga, Chile Photograph: Matt Wilson/Cephas Rafael Urrejola speaks for his generation when he stresses the urgency of the matter: ‘We are running against time exploring vineyards, while Europe has had centuries. We have maps of the north because of the mining, but there’s little water. The south has plenty of rain and exciting soils, but there are scant maps. We can make wine right down at Chilecico, on the 46th parallel, but it only ripens in two out of every six years.’ Soil scientist Pedro Parra (pictured) ‘opened our minds to the soil’, but he says ruefully that some follow his advice ‘like a recipe’. Urrejola recognises the importance of soil in the terroir debate, but for him the work that has been done only emphasises that the…

CHILEAN CABERNET The new face of Chilean Cabernet It has a long history of making Chile’s most famous labels, but Cabernet Sauvignon’s popularity among both producers and drinkers has waned over recent years, its quality suffering in the process. Peter Richards MW reports on how winemakers are now refocusing their efforts on elegant, terroir-driven Cabernets CHILEANS ARE OFTEN stereotyped as being straightlaced and undemonstrative. A bit English, if you like. A good way to prove this isn’t entirely true is to ask a Chilean winemaker what’s wrong with the country’s Cabernet Sauvignon. Some agree vehemently with the diagnosis and embark on a protracted bout of soul-searching. Others reject the notion and defend their corner fiercely. Even high-profile international consultants become heated. Either way, it’s instructive to witness the depth of…

The tasters Christelle Guibert is Decanter’s tastings director who has worked in wine for more than 20 years Patricio Tapia is the DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina and writes an annual guide to the wines of South America Dirceu Vianna Jr MW is wine director for the Coe Group in the UK. He was born in Brazil and is South America’s first male Master of Wine Peter Richards MW is the DWWA Regional Chair for Chile, who published the Chile Wine Brief 2013 Jane Parkinson is an award-winning wine writer as well as an author, broadcaster and columnist based in the UK…

Viña Leyda Leaders in the Valley In 1998, Viña Leyda took the decision to go against the trend of producing hearty red wines in warm Chilean valleys by planting the first vines in the Leyda Valley, located just 12km from the Pacific Ocean. The different climatic conditions and soil profile produced a new style of wine compared to those with a D.O. from Aconcagua, as it was originally labeled. Consequently, Viña Leyda requested the creation of a new D.O. from “Leyda Valley”, which became official in May 2002. Today, there are 2,400 hectares of vineyards planted in the valley, with Viña Leyda one of the largest wineries in the area with 190 hectares planted. Location Viña Leyda is located to the west of the Chilean Coastal mountain range, just 4-12km…

Rediscover a forgotten taste Miguel Torres Chile, Estelado, Maule NV 17 (90) £9.27-£14.53 Amazon, Cambridge Wine, Chester Beer & Wine, Fareham Wine Cellar, Fine Wine Direct, Hoults, Martinez, The Drink Shop Lovely mousse followed by fresh red fruit aromas and flavours balanced by crisp acidity. The sweetness is mild, making it even more approachable, and ideal for an alfresco meal of salmon tartare. Drink 2015-2016 Alc 12.5% Concha y Toro, Marqués de Casa Concha País-Cinsault, Maule 2014 17.75 (92) N/A UK www.conchaytoro.com Something quite unusual in the highly conservative line of Marqués de Casa Concha – this is not only a surprise for the grapes from which it was made, but especially for its style. Refreshing, juicy and full of bright red fruit and vibrant acidity. The body is light…

STEVEN SPURRIER Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep End-of-term tastings July for wine writers, as for school children, is the end of term. After the summer holidays, work begins again. I feel the vinous year begins on 1 September, certainly not on 1 January, though antipodeans may not agree. As I write, my own wine-tasting term has ended, leaving a few events to wrap up, before starting afresh in autumn. Napa Valley Vintners Napa Valley Vintners was founded in 1944 and now has more than 500 members. Several were in London in June to show a range of young and older vintages. To introduce Napa, some bulletpoints…

South American Chardonnay: vintages 2014 In Uruguay storms ruined 30% of the harvest, affecting early-ripening grapes like Chardonnay, while in Brazil late rain made it tricky for reds, but it was a very good vintage for whites. It was warm in Chile, giving a voluptuous style. In Argentina, it was one of the coolest years of the decade, producing some of the best Chardonnay ever. 2013 Another very cold vintage in Chile, producing some of the best-ever Chardonnays. In Argentina, a moderate to warm climate gave good balance between ripeness and acidity. Excellent in Uruguay and Brazil – a great year to introduce yourself to their whites. 2012 In Argentina, frost cut yields by up to 40%, particularly affecting the Chardonnay. Those that survived gave very focused, refreshing wines. In…

Outstanding 18.5–20pts (95–100pts) Maycas del Limarí, Quebrada Seca, Limarí, Chile 2013 Decanter average score: 18.5/20pts (95/100pts) Individual judges’ scores: Patricio Tapia 18.5 Dirceu Vianna Jr MW 18.5 £20 The Wine Society Winemaker Marcelo Papa is one of the pioneers to have exploited the potential of Limarí, a coastal region some 300km north of Santiago. Today, as the head of Maycas (part of the Concha y Toro group), he has used all his knowledge of the area to create this Chardonnay from the calcareous soils of the Quebrada Seca vineyard. It is bright in acidity, rich in herbal, citrus and mineral notes and imposing, concentrated fruit flavours. This is one of the finest examples of the potential of Limarí’s coastal vineyards and their symbiotic relationship with Chardonnay. Patricio Tapia A…

My top three Dirceu Vianna Jr MW • Maycas del Limari, Quebrada Seca, Limari, Chile 2013 It is exciting to find a world-class Chardonnay from Limarí, where conditions are very dry but cool due to coastal influences. Overt, modern and expressive with tropical fruit, tarragon, mineral overtones and attractive sweet spice from well-judged oak. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2015-2018 • Pandolfi Price, Los Patricios, Itata, Chile 2012 From an inadvertent acquisition of a parcel of dry-farmed Chardonnay emerges this enticingly complex wine. With hazelnut, bruised apple and flinty minerality, Los Patricios is not easy to understand, but for those who do – it is exceptional. 18.5 (95) Drink 2015-2018 • Viu Manent, Gran Reserva, Casablanca, Chile 2013 The distinct influence of the cooler conditions of the 2013 vintage gives vibrant freshness…

New releases from Argentina Forget the clumsy whites and high-octane reds of old – Argentina is changing, says Sarah Jane Evans MW, whose recent trip there opened her eyes to the potential ‘WE ARE SORRY, this wine has sold out’. That was the posting in orange capitals on a retailer’s website over an Argentinian wine that a Decanter Panel Tasting awarded an Outstanding rating to in this year’s July issue. Definitely not a great start to compiling my pick of wines for this piece. The following 18 wines are all new releases I enjoyed on my recent trip to Argentina that are (except for one) currently available – or soon to come to market – in the UK. I had just tasted the sell-out wine at the winery, and was…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com)Abasto, London (www.abasto.co.uk)Abbey Wines, Melrose (01896 823 244)ABS Wine Agencies(www.abswineagencies.co.uk)Addison Wines (www.addisonwines.com)Adnams, Southwold (wwwadnams.co.uk)Aged in Oak (www.agedinoak.co.uk)Alexander Hadleigh (www.ahadleigh-wine.com)Alexander Wines (www.alexander-wines.co.uk)All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk)Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk)Altus Wine, Hampshire (www.altuswine.co.uk)Amathus, London (www.amathusdrinks.com)Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk)Amps Fine Wines (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk)Anglia Wines, Cambs (www.angliawines.co.uk)Arkell Vintners, Wilts (01793 823 026)Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk)Asda (www.asda.co.uk)Aston Jones, Wales (www.astonjones.co.uk)Atlas Wines (www.wineatlas.net)Averys, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bablake Wines (www.bablakewines.co.uk)Bacchanalia TWS (www.bacchanaliatws.co.uk)Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com)Barwell & Jones (www.barwellandjones.com)Bayley & Sage, London (www.bayley-sage.co.uk)Baythorne Hall, Essex (www.baythornehall.co.uk)Bedales, London (www.bedaleswines.com)Bentleys Wine, Ludlow (www.bentleyswine.com)Berkmann, London (www.berkmann.co.uk)Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com)Best Cellars, (www.bestcellars.co.uk)Best of Wines, London (www.bestofwines.co.uk)Bibendum PLB (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk)Bijou Bottles, Norfolk (www.bijoubottles.co.uk)Blanco & Gomez, London (020 7352 8680)Blas ar Fwyd, Conwy (www.blasarfwyd.com)Blyth Valley Wines (www.blythvalleywines.co.uk)Bodnant Welsh Food(www.bodnant-welshfood.co.uk)Bon Coeur, North…

At your service: Julia Oudill is sommelier and general manager or Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, 8-10 Neal’s Yard London WC2H 9DP. Tel: +44 (0)20 7734 7737 www.cvssevendials.com If I was dining at your restaurant, what is the one dish I should order? Which wine/s would you recommend with it and why? This summer, we added to the menu a dish of tuna tataki with radish, ginger and soy sauce which has quickly become one of my favourites. The summery radish adds another layer of spice to the ginger, which is rounded out by the soy sauce, creating a perfect accompaniment to the fresh, tender tuna. When thinking of wine to pair with this dish, my first thought went to Domaine des Mapliers’ Cote de Provence Rosé 2014 which comes from…

Books The Oxford Companion to Wine, 4th edition Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW Oxford University Press, £40 REVIEWING THIS TOME is rather like reviewing the Great Wall of China or the Parthenon. Criticism just bounces off these edifices, reduced to nit-picking. Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW and their hordes of advisors and contributors simply know everything there is to be known about this subject. Nonetheless wine, like any field of knowledge, is in a constant state of flux, and this fourth edition has been more thoroughly revised than any of its predecessors. So there are 300 new entries, as well as revisions. Some are technological (alternate packaging, optical sorting), others viticultural (ladybug taint, soil compaction, smoke taint, red-blotch virus). This bible is not primarily about personalities, but…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Durif This French variety, discovered in the 1860s, is more widely known – as Petite Sirah – in California, where there were almost 4,000 hectares in 2014. It is a natural cross between Peloursin, an old variety from eastern France, and Syrah, and the crossing happened by chance in the nursery of François Durif, a French botanist and grape breeder. It was imported into the US by Charles McIver in 1884 and is now found mainly in the San Joaquin Valley, San Luis Obispo, Napa and Sonoma. So enamoured with this late-ripening variety are its devotees that they have created the PS I Love You association and website (www.psiloveyou.org), which tells you more than you ever thought to ask about this variety. It performs…

John Stimpfig ‘The inherent problem with good wine is that it is far too drinkable’ I AM HAVING dinner at home on a weekday evening while looking longingly at an empty wine glass next to an opened bottle of Craggy Range’s Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2012. The glass I have just enjoyed alongside my fish pie was upliftingly good; refreshing, deftly balanced with fine, flinty, nectarine fruit and a lengthy, savoury, toasty finish. Its exquisite complexity simply implores another glass. And therein lies my current wine-drinking dilemma. Last year, a doctor acquaintance was mildly horrified to discover that rarely would a day go by without a glass of wine (or three) passing my lips. And so, in my mid-50s, I resolved to try and cut my daily wine consumption. The approach…

Around the wine world Jayer tops the fine-wine price charts FRANCE The world’s most expensive wine comes from Burgundy – and it’s not made by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), but by fellow Vosne-Romanée producer Henri Jayer. Jayer’s Richebourg Grand Cru has an average price of US$15,195 (£9,726) for a 750ml bottle across all available vintages, according to a survey of 55,000 wine merchants by Wine-Searcher.com. That elevates Jayer’s wine above the Romanée-Conti Grand Cru from DRC – often tagged as the most expensive wine – at $13,314 (£8,522) a bottle. Third is another Jayer wine, the Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, Vosne-Romanée at $8,832 (£5,655). Burgundy accounts for seven of the top 10 wines – and 40 of the top 50 – which reflects the rapid climb in prices for…

LETTER FROM CHINA Karen MacNeil ‘What if the world’s greatest wine regions have yet to be discovered?’ IT WAS THE pink hijabs that got me. Thousands of women – eyes alone exposed – working along the skeletal sides of partially built superhighways. Mostly the women were on their knees, planting. But come the heat of the late afternoon, they would curl up, like crescents on the ground, and sleep. I am not sure what I expected from Ningxia when I visited China this year. But it wasn’t Uyghur women (who are Muslim); it wasn’t whirling dust storms; it wasn’t vineyards built in trenches. And I did not expect the wine to be as impressive as it is. Ningxia, on the cusp of the Gobi Desert, is a three-hour plane ride…

TERROIR Digging the dirt When it comes to terroir, Chile’s vast array of soils give it the upper hand, whereas Argentina has tended to focus on altitude and sunshine. But things are changing in each country thanks to extensive research, exploration and experimentation, says Sarah Jane Evans MW, who meets the people, and recommends the wines, leading the way Photographs: Andy Christodolo/Cephas; Matias Rosso TERROIR, AS EVERY good student will tell you, has nothing to do with some magical essence of a place that makes unique wines. It’s simply a straightforward combination of the soil, the aspect and the microclimate, together with human influence. The work in the vineyard, the use of treatments and the interventions of the winemaker all make a difference to the expression of the terroir. In…

Sense of place: Evans’ pick of South America’s best De Martino, Quebrada Seca Chardonnay, Limarí Valley, Chile 2013 17.75 (92) £18.99 Waitrose Cellar From the man who has revived the use of clay amphorae – tinajas – this is a model of Marcelo Retamal’s classic approach: fermented this time in large foudres with spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Floral, honeyed, nutty, mineral: the very essence of Chardonnay. This is a single-vineyard site, high in calcium carbonate - though Retamal insists minerality is a result of reduction and nothing to do with the soil. Drink 2015-2019 Alcohol 13.5% Catena Zapata, White Bones Chardonnay, Adrianna Vineyard, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina 2012 17.5 (91) £59.95-£62.10 (2011) Armit Wines, Hedonism, Winedirect Grassy, herbal aromatics, and a brilliantly vivid entry to the palate, developing to a fine stony,…

Richards’ pick of the ‘new’ Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons Ventisquero, Enclave, Pirque, Maipo 2011 18.5 (95) £45 Amathus, Buy Great Wine, Davy’s, Love Wine, The Wine Centre, Wine Chambers This beautiful Cabernet is all about texture. Wonderul tobacco perfume and grippy yet fine tannins: super classy. Drink 2015-2030 Alcohol 14% Casas del Bosque, Gran Bosque Reserva Privada, Alto Maipo 2012 18 (93) £35 ABS Wine, AC Gaillie, Christopher Piper, Love Wine Rich, attention-grabbing stuff, but also grippy and structured. Compelling. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 14.5% De Martino, Las Aguilas, Maipo 2011 17.5 (91) £22.95 Averys, Berry Bros & Rudd This vintage marked the brave new dawn for De Martino: earlier harvests, fresher, more natural styles. Some lovely development here, with a subtle scent and wonderful tanninc finesse. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 13.5% Garage…

BEST WHITES South America’s most original whites If you wanted a glass of crisp, fresh, well-made white wine just 25 years ago here, you could forget it. Happily, quality has been on an upward trajectory in the years since, and today’s producers are pushing boundaries to produce whites with a unique character. Patricio Tapia reports PICTURE YOURSELF IN South America. It is 1990 and you feel like a glass of wine. Back then, the quality of the reds was solid. Most were still fairly rustic, but keen observers could see the potential of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. The whites, however, were a different story. This was a time when Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Muscat were the leading varieties. There were some sweet versions, harvested late, that shone, but dry…

The Decanter interview Eduardo Chadwick & Aurelio Montes They may have contrasting personalities, but when it comes to wine these Chilean heavyweights share a similar pioneering spirit, philisophy on quality, and patriotic ambition for the future. Fiona Beckett travels to Chile to meet them OUTSIDE THE MONTES winery in Apalta sits Aurelio Montes’ vintage red sports car and a bright red helicopter. At Viñedo Chadwick in Alto Maipo, Eduardo Chadwick’s former family home, there is a polo room filled with trophies and family photographs. At a glance these items sum up the contrasting personalities and styles of these two big beasts of the Chilean winemaking scene. At first glance, Montes – the swashbuckling, self-made man – couldn’t be further from Chadwick, who looks every inch the aristocrat in his floppy…

Richards’ pick of the group’s wines Lapostolle, Vigno, Empedrado, Maule 2013 18 (93) £23.99 Berkmann Vivid, focused, fresh style with a sleekness and fine-textured succulence that’s utterly winning. Drink 2015-2025 Alc 13.6% De Martino, Vigno, Maule 2012 17.5 (91) £23.95 Berry Bros & Rudd Majors on tension rather than muscle, sustained by a thrillingly taut core of juicy berry acidity. This has tremendous potential. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.5% Garage Wine Co, Vigno, Maule 2013 17.5 (91) POA Bibendum PLB Young, tense and invigorating. Rustic edge to the tannins but it has wonderful focus and engaging character. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14% García & Schwaderer, Vigno, Maule 2012 17 (90) £24.99 Naked Wines The 2011 sold like hot cakes and the 2012 is rippling with lithe energy. Beautifully judged. Drink 2015-2023 Alc…

The Decanter guarantee Our buying guide is here to provide you with trusted, independent, expert recommendations on what to buy, what to drink and what to cellar. Each panel tasting is judged by three experienced tasters chosen for their authority in the category of wine being rated. All wines are tasted blind and are pre-poured for judges in flights of 8 to 10 wines. Our three experts taste and score their set of wines individually but then discuss their scores together at the end of each flight. Any wines on which scores are markedly different are retasted; however judges are under no obligation to amend their scores. Judges are encouraged to look for typicity in wines, rewarding those which are true to their region. Prices are not revealed, and thus…

Steven recommends... Raventos i Blanc, Silencis, Penedes, Spain 2013 16.75 (89) £15.50-£16 Fields Morris & Verdin, Harvey Nichols From 50-year-old vines, the owners call this ‘an acidic Xarel-lo white with high salty notes’, while I found lifted florality and fresh minerality. Drink 2015-2016 Alc 12.2% Delaire Graff Estate, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2013 17.25 (90+) £13.99 Armit Wines, Swig Grapes from high hillside vineyards vinified in 50% new barriques with no malolactic nor batonnage; this is a floral, fresh, citrussy Chardonnay. Very elegant. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 14% Domaine de Montbourgeau, L’Etoile, Vin Jaune, Jura, France 2007 18 (93) £43.99/620ml Armit Wines Savagnin grapes matured after fermentation for six years in 230-litre casks with no topping up. Brilliant ‘non-oxidised oxidation’. Nutty, dry, superb length. Drink 2015-2027 Alc 13% Domaine Rochette, Cuvée…

The results Chile, particularly its coastal Limarí vineyards, was the undoubted star while our two experts suggested Argentina should focus on Malbec. Christelle Guibert reports on this extensive comparative tasting PUT 157 WINES in a tasting, made from one of the world’s most love/hate grape varieties, from across a young continent still getting to grips with it, and you are bound to have an interesting debate. ‘I knew we’d find a few unpleasant wines and lots of textbook examples, but things got more exciting with a number of expressive, well-made Chardonnays,’ said Brazilian-born Master of Wine Dirceu Vianna Jr. ‘Our 10 top wines had a different dimension, with real character, minerality, freshness and savoury notes.’ Patricio Tapia felt the soil type had a lot to answer for: ‘The most interesting…

Highly Recommended 17–18.25pts (90–94pts) Morandé, Gran Reserva, Casablanca, Chile 2014 17.5 (91) PT 17 DVJ 17.75 £10.65 (2013) Arkells, Coe Vintners, Slurp, The Drink Shop, The Wine Co Expansive, rich and uplifting with complex aromas of citrus fruits, pineapple, crunchy green apples, fresh dough and a flinty twist. Beautiful and refreshing, with a savoury finish. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% De Martino, Quebrada Seca, Limarí, Chile 2013 17 (90) PT 17 DVJ 17 £18.99 (2012) Waitrose Cellar Well defined and graceful with aromas of grapefruit, butterscotch and sweet spice. More of the same on the palate with the oak giving vanilla and coconut flavours. Rich and creamy finish. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 13.5% Undurraga, TH, Quebrada Seca, Limarí, Chile 2012 17.5 (91) PT 17.75 DVJ 17 £10.54-£12.98 (2010) The Drink Shop, Soho…

My top three Patricio Tapia • Ventisquero, Tara 1, Atacama, Chile 2013 From the chalky and saline soils of the arid Atacama Desert, this is a unique white. Made in small quantities as a sideline project for the Ventisquero winemaking team, its appearance is somewhat cloudy, with intense fruit flavours and mineral tones. The texture is oily and the acidity is vibrant. 18.5/20 (95/100) Drink 2015-2020 • Catena Zapata, White Bones, Tupungato, Argentina 2011 This is a unique wine, let alone a Chardonnay. The grapes are a selection from vines planted on the stony soils of the Adrianna vineyard in the heights of Gualtallary. It smells of herbs, green fruit and grass, almost like a retsina. Its body is impressive, led by searing acidity. Ideal with oysters. 18.25 (94) Drink…

Evans’ top 18 wines to try Salentein, Single-Vineyard San Pablo Chardonnay Plot 2, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2012 19 (96) N/A UK www.bodegassalentein.com Aromas of fine oak lead to a punchy lime palate that’s structured and exceptionally long. It’s clear winemaker José Galante is a ‘Chardonnay fanatic’. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 14% Mendel, Semillon, Altamira, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2014 17 (90) £11 House of Townend, The Wine Society A pure, understated, elegant Semillon from winemaker Roberto de la Mota. Vivid lemon fruit with a trace of oak from 73-year-old vines. A welcome reworking of Argentina’s traditional white wine. Drink 2015-2019 Alc 13% Kaiken, Terroir Series Torrontes, Salta 2014 16.5 (88) £9.99 widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines Full of bright and open grapey, elderflower charm. Young and fresh and without any…

Indian Chutney Mary, London Reviewed by Brian St Pierre TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO Indian restaurants all seemed to have standardised menus, beer was the drink of choice and the reception desk doubled as the pick-up point for takeaways. Now many have Michelin stars, wine cellars and time limits on their pre-booked tables. Chutney Mary, on the raggedy end of King’s Road in Chelsea, was the game-changer. Now it’s moved on, and up – to St James’s St, a neighbourhood that I don’t think has ever had a local Indian, and undergone a gilt-edged, crystal-crusted, and radically chic makeover. The menu’s been upgraded as well: a ramekin of Cornish crab flakes tossed with garlic butter marries sweetness with a savoury umami kick; monkfish tikka’s firmness is brightened by the anise sharpness of…

READER OFFER Lima Lima in London’s Fitzrovia is the first Peruvian restaurant in Europe to be awarded a Michelin star. Opened three years ago, it shows the gastronomic expansion that has taken place in Peru in the past few years, highlighting Lima as the gastronomic capital of the Americas to London’s dining public. The restaurant is the brainchild of world-renowned Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez and his partners Gabriel and José Luis Gonzalez. The team maintains close contact between the London venue and its sister restaurant Central in Lima. This constant communication keeps the Fitzrovia kitchen vibrant, relevant and always at the forefront of innovation, showcasing Martinez’s most recent creations. On Monday to Thursday lunchtimes from 1-30 September 2015, Decanter readers can enjoy three courses from that day’s set lunch menu,…

In brief Exploring and Tasting Wine: A Wine Course with Digressions by Berry Bros & Rudd Wine School (BB&R Press, £30) This is the London merchant’s Wine School course book (how to taste, grape varieties, choosing and enjoying wine) with, as the title suggests, digressions, aka ‘discussions’. The design is terrific, the presentation fresh, the colour printing excellent. The flavour diagrams are particularly good. It’s fun and stimulating, and written by people who know exactly what’s going on in each region because they spend a lot of time there. Clever design and presentation packs with a huge amount of information, well written, without any feeling of indigestion. A star buy. The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil (Workman, £16.99) The text is really quite good in this ‘lively course’. And there’s…

Tasting notes decoded Hands-off winemaking Some grape varieties tend to be made in a non-interventionist style, like Riesling, which usually does not go through much ‘winemaking’, such as malolactic fermentation, acid addition or oak ageing. Chardonnay, on the other hand, is quite versatile and malleable and can be made in many different styles: creamy and buttery, due to malolactic fermentation and oak ageing, as seen in Meursault; or lean and mineral, as with Chablis. In this particular tasting the judges refer to hands-off winemaking when the wine has seen little new oak, and the varietal characteristics, such as citrus, tropical fruit and minerality in some places, are at the forefront rather than creaminess and vanilla. (Tasting note from p97)…

In brief Barolo back vintages on offer A new online specialist is offering back vintages of top-name Barolos and Barbarescos. Vertigo (Vertigobarolobackvintages.com), run by Palas Cerequio and Michele Chiarlo, has more than 7,000 bottles dating back to 1958, stored in its cellar at La Morra, in the heart of the Cerequio vineyard. Part of the philosophy of the site is to offer wines that are rare or out of stock elsewhere. IWA tops French wine auction list International Wine Auction (IWA), the online auction arm of auction house and market analyst iDealwine, has been named the leading wine auction house in France by the French Council of Auctioneers. Wine auctions in France were worth €33m (£23m), excluding buyers’ premiums, in 2014, of which IWA sales took €6.475m, representing 20% of…

Hammer highlights • Christie’s, New York, 19 June: 11 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), La Tâche 1990 sold for $36,750 (high estimate: $45,000); nine bottles of Pétrus 1989 sold for $26,950 (high e: $32,000); nine bottles of JF Coche-Dury, Corton-Charlemagne (various vintages) sold for $22,050 (high e: $20,000); seven bottles of Mouton 1961 sold for $14,700 (high e: $11,000); 10 bottles of Lafite 1982 sold for $14,700 (high e: $24,000). • Sotheby’s, London, 15 July: eight bottles of Pétrus 1989 sold for £18,800 (high e: £22,000); 12 bottles of DRC, Echézeaux 1990 sold for £9,988 (high e: £10,000); three bottles of Ramonet, Montrachet 1992 sold for £6,462 (high e: £3,600); 12 bottles of Soldera, Case Basse, Brunello Riserva 1990 sold for £7,285 (high e: £4,000); six bottles of…

Loi Evin war rages as rule change denied by Richard Woodard Photograph: Jean-Pierre Muller/Getty Images; Cultura Creative (RF)/Alamy FRANCE CAMPAIGNERS AGAINST the Evin Law have vowed to fight on after France’s highest legislative body rejected plans to soften its rules governing wine-related publicity. The Constitutional Council rejected an amendment to the Evin Law – or Loi Evin – that had been backed by Parliament and was intended to give educational bodies and wine tourism operators more freedom to market themselves. The blow to anti-Evin campaigners is the latest twist in an increasingly fierce dispute in France over what should be considered wine marketing and how strict rules should be. An amendment to the present rules was proposed as part of the Marcron Law, designed to stimulate the stuttering French economy,…

In brief The 2015 Port harvest has echoes of the highly rated 2011 vintage, says David Guimaraens, head winemaker for The Fladgate Partnership, owner of Taylor’s, Fonseca and Croft. ‘Both years experienced warm, dry springs… we’re hoping for a very good harvest, although it will be starting earlier than usual.’ Wildfires on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast are believed to have destroyed vineyards. About 25,000 bottles of Plavac Mali wines from the 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages have been lost at the Grgich winery near Dubrovnik. The producer is one of the best-known in Croatia and the sister operation to Mike Grgich’s eponymous estate in Napa Valley. Champagne Louis Roederer is to experiment with pre-phylloxera vines after it was given permission to open its own private vineyard nursery near Reims. The company…

Andrew Jefford ‘Wine is the most intimate way to know the world’ A LITTLE EARLIER this year, I was asked to give a five-hour masterclass and tasting in Spain. Five hours! Marriages have been contracted and ceasefires brokered more swiftly than that, so I decided – having been offered the fullness of time – to begin with a little perspective and context. Imagine being asked on your death bed (the audience looked alarmed) why you pursued your chosen profession throughout your working life. Some, for example, are born to wine, and simply choose not to opt out; like many reading this, though, I chose to opt in. Why choose wine for a half-century of labour? Is wine good enough? There might be reasons for considering wine a poor choice of…

What I’ve been drinking this month After four days of tasting in Ningxia, two wines firmly stand out. Helan Qingxue Vineyard’s Jiabeilan 2013 (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Gernischt) was young, dense, powerful, stony, and packed with a dried sage-like Cabernet character that was fluid, persistent, and totally delicious. Possibly even more impressive was Silver Heights’ Summit 2013 (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah): a dark, luscious, spicy, minerally red that left you wondering if some Ningxia netherworld exists between Bordeaux and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.…

BEST BUYS Top 50 value buys from South America Few wine regions, let alone entire continents, can perform as well as South America when it comes to value for money. From 247 wines tasted over two days, our experts have chosen the best with UK availability, all priced under £12.99. From a Brazilian sparkling to Chilean sweet wines, a Uruguayan white plus Argentina’s finest reds, there’s something here to please every palate 1 Miolo, Cuvée Tradition, Vale de Vinhedos, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil NV 17/20pts (90/100pts) £12.48 Buy Great Wine Elegant, light floral tones and toasty peach notes on the nose complement a simple and clean palate, which is streaked with crisp apple, lemon and grapefruit. Refreshing, wonderful value and a great alternative to Prosecco. Drink 2015-2017 Alcohol 12% 2 Cono…

Tapia’s top 15 South American whites Catena, White Stones Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Uco Valley, Argentina 2012 19.25 (97) £37.46-£40.67 (2011) Hedonism, Winedirect Since 2009, winemaker Alejandro Vigil has been experimenting with vines planted on calcareous soils from the Adrianna Vineyard in Gualtallary, 1,500m above sea level in the Uco Valley. The mountain climate and these extremely chalky soils give this wine an intense freshness and minerality. It has a focused arrow of acidity with powerful freshness, and a stout, firm body full of tension. It shows both great varietal character and sense of place. Drink 2015-2025 Alc 13% Errázuriz, Pizarras Chardonnay, Aconcagua Costa, Chile 2014 19.25 (97) POA Hatch Mansfield The newest white from Errazuriz is an important step in understanding how the Chardonnay grape works on the slate soils of…

The big boys go off-piste: Tapia’s top 10 Ventisquero, Tara White 1, Atacama, Chile 2013 18.5 (95) £34.75-£40 Handford, Hedonism, Solent Cellar, The Wine Treasury A rare specimen in the Chilean wine scene, this 100% Chardonnay comes from a vineyard on the banks of the river Huasco, in the middle of the Atacama desert in northern Chile. From its hazy appearance to its intriguing flavours and aromas of white ripe fruit, white pepper and minerals, Tara feels unusual and eccentric. The palate is smooth, yet with a firm, refreshing acidity. Drink 2015-2022 Alc 12.8% Santa Carolina, Bloque Herencia Semillon, Apalta, Colchagua, Chile 2014 18 (93) N/A UK www.santacarolina.cl Semillon enjoyed great popularity in Chile until the first half of the 19th century. Then, with the arrival of other grapes, it…

The men and a taste of their wines Eduardo Chadwick Errazuriz, Single Vineyard Chardonnay, Aconcagua Costa 2013 16 (86) £12-£14 Hailsham, Kingsgate, Noel Young, Stone Vine & Sun Chadwick sees huge potential in his cool-climate vineyards. A rich, creamy Chardonnay with lovely fresh acidity. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 13.5% Seña, Ocoa, Aconcagua 2012 19 (96) £74-£90 Armit Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Hedonism, Lay & Wheeler Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Malbec. Seductively smooth, ripe and supple, incredibly polished. A world-class wine by any standards. Drink 2017-2027 Alc 14% Errazuriz, Kai, Aconcagua 2012 17.5 (91) £80-£90 Christopher Keiller, Edencroft, Fareham Wine Cellar Exotically smoky, spicy and peppery – a hugely exciting top-level Carmenere, though a touch on the pricey side. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14%…

Scoring system Tasters rate the wines using the 20-point scoring system, in increments of 0.5pts; however, we also publish the 100-point equivalent. The overall Decanter rating is the average of all three judges’ scores. For example, If a wine averages 18.5 points or more, the wine is automatically awarded Decanter’s ‘Outstanding’ rating. The ratings are set out below: To see the entire scoring conversion chart, go to Decanter.com/buyingguide . For the ‘Outstanding’ Decanter rating, judges’ individual scores and tasting notes are listed in addition to the average score. For the ‘Highly Recommended’ and ‘Recommended’ wines, individual and average scores are also listed but tasting notes are a combination of the three judges’ notes. We plan to post all individual tasting notes for all the wines tasted on Decanter.com. Due to technical…

The tasters’ verdicts Patricio Tapia Tapia is the DWWA Regional Chair for Argentina. He has a journalism degree from the University of Santiago and a diploma in winemaking from Bordeaux University. The wine critic for Argentina, Chile and Spain for Wine & Spirits, he is host on South America’s El Gourmet channel and also writes the annual Descorchados bilingual wine guide to Argentinian, Chilean and Uruguayan wine. Tapia’s verdict ‘Tasting 157 Chardonnays allowed us to assess very precisely the state of this grape across South America. And for me there’s both good and bad news. The bad is that the problems that still plagued Chardonnay in the past – specifically excess oak and overripe fruit – are still evident. The good news is that these are in the minority to…

Recommended 15–16.75pts (83–89pts) Fair 13-14.75pts (76-82pts) • Casa Donoso, Bicentenario, Gran Reserva, Maule, Chile 2014 14.75 (82) • Casa Donoso, Evolución, Reserva, Maule, Chile 2014 14.75 (82) • Casa Silva, Reserva, Colchagua, Chile 2014 14.75 (82) • Lapostolle, Cuvée Alexandre, Casablanca, Chile 2013 14.75 (82) • Santa Ema, Select Terroir, Unoaked, Chile 2013 14.75 (82) • Antigua Bodega Stagnari, Del Pedregal, Selección, Canelones, Uruguay 2014 14.5 (81) • Carmen, Gran Reserva, Casablanca, Chile 2013 14.5 (81) • Cousiño-Macul, Antiguas Reservas, Maipo, Chile 2014 14.5 (81) • Dos Puentes, Uco Valley, Argentina 2014 14.5 (81) • Alpamanta Estate, Mendoza, Argentina 2012 13.75 (79) • Santa Alicia, Gran Reserva de Los Andes, Maipo, Chile 2014 13.75 (79) • Uma Colección, Mendoza, Argentina 2015 13.75 (79) • Viña Casablanca, Cefiro Reserva, Casablanca, Chile…

Expert summary: Patricio Tapia Chile shone in 2013, especially in Limarí and the Quebrada Seca vineyard. Lofty sites in Argentina also fared well in 2014, with Brazil and Uruguay showing promise THIS TASTING PROVED that the best Chardonnay in South America comes from cooler areas, either from the heights of the Andes in the Uco Valley or coastal sites by the Pacific Ocean such as Limarí, Casablanca or Huasco. It is also evident that the advances are the clearest in Chile. All four Outstanding wines are Chilean, as well as five of the six Highly Recommendeds. The well-deserved exception – and sadly the only Brazilian wine in this 157-strong tasting – is Pizzato’s Fausto from Brazil’s Serra Gaucha region – a cool, rainy area where the grapes ripen slowly and…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at very reasonable prices – and all UK-available denotes supermarket and high-street wines Tanners, Prosecco Brut, Trevisio, Italy NV 16.75 (89) £9.95 Tanners With demand pushing supply, there has never been a better time to choose your Prosecco wisely, and this appealing house fizz is a safe buy. It has lively, ripe white summer fruits and a lemon intensity. It’s a drier style than your average Prosecco and has a dazzling, tangy finish. Alcohol 11% Rainer Wess, Grüner Veltiner, Wachau, Austria 2014 17.5 (91) £7.95 The Wine Society Schooled in Austria, Wess cut…

A wine lover’s guide to Buenos Aires From old favourites to the latest openings, humble parrillas to high-rise haute cuisine, Alejandro Iglesias names the best venues to wine and dine in the Argentinian capital BUENOS AIRES IS famous for its elegant European style and multicultural energy. Every neighbourhood displays a fascinating, and individual atmosphere: some have a bohemian and fiery tango spirit, others are glamorous, or cool and trendy. In all of them the colourful cultural mix is combined with a tremendous offer of art, design and gastronomy, positioning Buenos Aires as one of the must-visit capitals of the world. Historically, gourmands visiting Buenos Aires were told to enjoy the excellent beef and sip a nice Malbec. However, over recent years the culinary offer has widened, and wine has gained…

Collector’s corner Château Coutet, La Cuvée Madame 2003 £240 leading Bordeaux merchants Made in tiny quantities from late-picked berries from Coutet’s two oldest parcels of 55-year-old vines, this spends 10 years minimum in bottle prior to release. Krug, Clos d’Ambonnay 2000 £1,590 (ib) Bordeaux Index Only the fourth release from Krug’s walled Pinot Noir enclave, partner to Clos du Mesnil. The 2000 vintage has ‘astonishing grace and finesse’, says Olivier Krug. Ca’del Bosco, Cuvée Prestige NV £39.99 Selfridges A classic Franciacorta blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco, bringing plenty of fruit and freshness, but also great acidity and underlying structure.…

Weinert, Malbec Estrella 1977 Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina A legend because… This was a wine from only the second vintage produced at this estate, and spent an astonishing 19 years in casks before being bottled and released. It was one of the first pure Malbecs to be presented internationally as a fine wine, helping to establish it as Argentina’s signature variety. The next Estrella Malbec would not be made until 1994 and, like its successors, was a selection of the very finest casks of wine. A few bottles of the 1977 Estrella remain in the Weinert cellars. Looking back Brazilian-born Bernardo Weinert bought a ruinous 19th-century winery in 1975, having previously made an extended study of soils and vines in the Mendoza area, and, after renovating the winery, he…