Da Manの Caliber 2024 の目次

The Comeback Kings Earlier this year, the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar was unveiled. Two dial options were made available: a sporty silverywhite “panda” opaline dial with black counters and a 1/10th of a second scale and a luxurious opaline slate-gray dial with silvery-white counters and scale. The watch is housed in a sleek 38mm steel case that seamlessly integrates a complete calendar and moon phase function with an automatic high-frequency 1/10th of a second chronograph movement, all while maintaining elegant proportions. Ultimately, this Chronomaster is presented in a compact design that draws inspiration from historical aesthetics, making it distinctly recognizable. ZENITH CHRONOMASTER ORIGINAL TRIPLE CALENDAR CASE SIZE: 38MM CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS-STEEL DIAL:  SILVERY-WHITE “PANDA” OPALINE DIAL OR OPALINE SLATE-GRAY DIAL STRAP:BLACK CALFSKIN STRAP MOVEMENT:EL PRIMERO 3610 AUTOMATIC HIGH-FREQUENCY CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENT…

Distinctive Identity THE NEWEST Hermès Cut showcases minimalist designs with a distinct personality. Its sharply defined edges and elegantly proportioned satin-brushed case emphasize its individuality. The crown is notably positioned at 1:30 and features either an engraved or lacquered H, which adds to its uniqueness. The watch’s understated elegance is further enhanced by the embossed lettering. The Hermès Cut case is available in stainless=steel as well as a two-tone option that combines steel and rose gold. It can be matched with either an integrated metal bracelet or a rubber strap, offered in a selection of eight colors inspired by the Hermès color palette, complete with a convenient interchangeability system. HERMÈS CUT CASE SIZE: 36MM CASE MATERIAL: CIRCULAR SATIN-FINISHED STAINLESS-STEEL DIAL: OPALINE SILVER-TONED STRAP: STAINLESS-STEEL BRACELET OR RUBBER STRAP MOVEMENT: MANUFACTURE…

KUDOKE 3 Salmon INDEPENDENT German watchmaker KUDOKE has solidified its place among the elite of horology with a second win at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The KUDOKE 3 Salmon captured the coveted “Petite Aiguille” award, honoring exceptional watches priced between 3,000 and 10,000 CHF. This victory follows the brand’s 2019 triumph with the KUDOKE 2 and underscores its innovative craftsmanship and creative vision. The KUDOKE 3 Salmon impresses with its unique time display. While the blued steel minute hand operates traditionally, the triple-armed hour hand introduces an ingenious system where each arm sequentially measures hours on distinct scales. The salmon-hued upper dial, paired with a silver-plated wave-pattern hour plate, achieves an elegant harmony. Thoughtful details like diamond-edged components and the HANDwerk collection’s signature infinity motif elevate the…

Styling assistants Isabella Harahap & Vanessa Yofania Model Matthew Rueben/Studio47 Grooming Arimbi Location Lotte Alley – Lotte Shopping Avenue, Jl. Prof. DR. Satrio, Kav. 3-5, Jakarta +62 21 2988 9292 www.lottemall.co.id…

Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary Breitling continues its exciting “140 Years of Firsts” celebration with the brand’s first exclusive perpetual calendar chronograph movement, the Caliber B19, presented in three of its flagship models: the Premier, Navitimer and Chronomat. Among these, the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary really stands out. This special watch features the famous slide rule in black on an attention-grabbing 18K red-gold dial. The strap is crafted from alligator leather with contrasting topstitching and an 18K gold folding buckle. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC Roman jeweler and watchmaker Bvlgari released the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC with a thickness of only 1.70mm. To achieve this technical feat, the caseback of the watch is designed to also serve as the mainplate, on which…

Daniel Hug is the go-to expert for fascinating stories surrounding Longines watches. As the Head of Brand Heritage, he can share so many intriguing anecdotes, such as the acquisition of aviator Amy Johnson’s Longines watch at a live auction. He can also share stories of the many other personalities who had a Longines on their wrist while achieving incredible feats, from Albert Einstein to Amelia Earhart. In short, Hug possesses extensive knowledge about the brand’s legacy, which covers nearly 200 years of history. Earlier this year, DAMAN Caliber caught up with Daniel Hug during our memorable visit to the Longines headquarters at Saint-Imier in Switzerland. As the nerve center of Compagnie des Montres Longines Francillon S.A., the facility houses the brand’s workshops and a museum that traces Longines’ rich history.…

Each year, the Cartier Privé collection captures the attention of watch enthusiasts worldwide, unveiling fresh interpretations of Cartier’s most iconic timepieces. In its eighth year, Cartier Privé revisits the Tortue watch, a model introduced in 1912 and cherished for its innovative design. Known for its unique shape—a nod to the tortoise shell—this model underscores Cartier’s mastery of form. This year’s iterations present is a contemporary homage to the original, blending luxury with cutting-edge craftsmanship. A TESTAMENT TO TIMELESS DESIGN The Tortue watch, a fixture of Cartier’s legacy, combines elegant curves with precise, angular lines. In its latest release, Cartier enhances these elements subtly but effectively. The slimmer profile and elongated lugs give the watch a lighter, more modern feel, while traditional features, like apple-shaped hands and the signature rail-track around…

BREITLING The Beckham Effect BREITLING has launched the Chronomat Automatic 36 in a limitededition collection of 1,500 pieces created in partnership with Victoria Beckham. This collection merges Breitling’s renowned craftsmanship with Beckham’s distinct design flair, blending feminine and masculine influences. Classic Chronomat details, such as the metal rouleaux bracelet and raised rider tabs as the 15-minute marks, remain intact. It comes in stainless-steel or yellow gold, with the Breitling logo on the dial and the VB initials on the seconds hand. The new dial colorways are inspired by the British fashion designer’s spring/summer 2024 palette. Each stainless-steel piece is marked with “One of 400” while the gold dials have “One of 100.” BREITLING CHRONOMAT AUTOMATIC 36 VICTORIA BECKHAM CASE SIZE: 36MM CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS-STEEL DIAL: PEPPERMINT, MIDNIGHT BLUE, DOVE GRAY…

Hands & Numerals The hands and numerals or indexes of a watch are actually carefully considered to ensure aesthetic cohesion as well as, most importantly, legibility. As such, most watch designs rely on the most basic variations. Crystal & Finishing Transparent crystal on a watchcase can be made of: • SYNTHETIC SAPPHIRE is the hardest and most used in Swiss watches. It is also sometimes used for casebacks. • MINERAL GLASS is basically made of ordinary glass. It is inexpensive but easy to break. • ACRYLIC or Plexiglass is the most affordable but has very low resistance to scratches. Basic types of dial featirs and finishings include: • SUPER-LUMINOVA is a brand name for a glow-in-the-dark material mostly applied on watch indexes as well as watch hands. • GUILLOCHÉ is…

The Most Iconic One INSPIRED by space exploration and the collection’s famous heritage, the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch features a lacquered white dial with black detailing and new applied indexes. Most notably, the designers have added a standout Speedmaster name in red and given the entire surface a glossy lacquered finish, making it the first time this technique has ever been used on the Moonwatch’s step dial. Beneath this new visual composition, the 42mm stainless-steel timepiece is driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 386, the most up-to-date version of the legendary Calibre 321 trusted by astronauts who went to the moon. OMEGA SPEEDMASTER MOONWATCH CASE SIZE: 42MM CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS-STEEL DIAL: WHITE LACQUERED DIAL STRAP: STEEL BRACELET, LEATHER OR NATO STRAP MOVEMENT: CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER CALIBRE 3861 POWER…

Uniquely Divine The “Escale à Asnières” Pocket Watch by Louis Vuitton represents a harmonious blend of Genevan craftsmanship and Parisian charm. This timepiece showcases the sophisticated techniques of high-end watchmaking at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, seamlessly merging with the rich heritage of the maison’s iconic trunkmaking workshop in Asnières. Visually, Louis Vuitton pays homage to its historic Asnières workshop by depicting it on the watch dial, which also features miniature enamel technics by master enameller Anita Porchet. What’s more, this exquisite 50mm pocket watch, designed as a one-of-a-kind creation in an 18K pink gold case, also features a minute repeater movement alongside an automata mechanism featuring seven intricate animations. LOUIS VUITTON “ESCALE À ASNIÈRES” POCKET WATCH CASE SIZE: 50MM CASE MATERIAL: 18K PINK GOLD DIAL: ENAMEL STRAP: 18K…

Creative Ingenuity LAUNCHED at this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, the breathtaking Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon blends mechanical ingenuity and artistic creativity. In this watch, the flying tourbillon occupies a prominent position, facilitating a balanced and concentric arrangement, moving away from Roger Dubuis’ traditional 7 o’clock positioning. The mechanism also features a patentpending planetary system optimised for a more compact design to create a minimalist appearance. The watch comes in an 18K pink gold case with matching bezel, and is powered by the manual-winding Calibre RD115. ROGER DUBUIS ORBIS IN MACHINA CENTRAL MONOTOURBILLON CASE SIZE: 45MM CASE MATERIAL: 18K PINK GOLD DIAL: CONCENTRIC CIRCLES IN 18K PINK GOLD AND GRAY STRAP: BLACK LEATHER STRAP MOVEMENT: CALIBRE RD115 POWER RESERVE: 72 HOURS WATER RESISTANCE: 50 METERS The Dynamic…

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription The Tourbillon Souscription from Daniel Roth was unveiled as part of the maison’s revival with the support of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This piece pays homage to the original design of 1988, which was also the very first Daniel Roth model: the Tourbillon ref. 2187/C187. Recently, at the esteemed Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony in Geneva, the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription watch was awarded the prestigious prize in the “Tourbillon” category. Design-wise, the case maintains the shape and size of the classic double ellipse while incorporating subtle improvements. On top of that, it also boasts refinements to its design and mechanics, most notably an all-new in-house calibre and the signature solid gold guilloche dial. Speaking of which, while the Tourbillon Souscription’s dial…

Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver THE SILVER-dialed version of Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Moon presents a masterful blend of technical ingenuity and timeless elegance. Recently awarded the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize at the 24th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, it’s celebrated for its seamless integration of calendar systems and a design rooted in classic watchmaking traditions. Housed in a 40mm 18K red gold case, the watch exudes understated sophistication. Its pebble-smooth curves frame a silver dial, detailed with slender Roman numerals, a petrol blue chemin de fer minute track and a striking cherry-red date numeral for the 31st. At six o’clock, the brand debuts its moonphase complication, rendered in aventurine glass with translucent enamel, evoking the night sky’s serenity. The LF126.02 calibre powers the watch, offering an 80-hour reserve and…

Roman jeweler and watchmaker Bvlgari has been hitting the high notes all year long. Which perhaps should come as no surprise, as 2024 marks the brand’s 140th anniversary, as well as the 10th for the Octo Finissimo family of watches. At the start of the year, Bvlgari broke yet another world record, this time for the slimmest COSC-certified chronometer ever produced with the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. There were also two new variations of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual, three versions of the limited-edition Octo Finissimo Sketch and many other novelties. Then, for the second half of the year, Bvlgari ramped things up with a series of spectacular new releases presented at Geneva Watch Days 2024. With “The Sound of Bvlgari” as the unifying theme, the brand’s latest releases…

This year, Piaget is celebrating 150 years of Swiss watchmaking excellence—an extraordinary milestone. At this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva, the maison once again showcased its ability to blend heritage with innovation, building on 2023’s success by presenting iconic designs and bold advancements while embracing a forward-looking vision that resonates with longtime aficionados and newcomers to fine watchmaking. Highlights from Piaget’s showcase for the year includes the bright and distinct gadroons of the timeless Piaget Polo and the casual sophistication of the Piaget Polo Date, which nicely underscores the maison’s aesthetic evolution. Piaget’s dedication to ultra-thin innovation also took center stage with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, a piece that continues to redefine horological boundaries with remarkable technical finesse. During the event, DAMAN Calibre had the chance to speak with…

Styling Assistance Bagoes Abyoso Grooming Talia Subandrio Model Enzo/Myers Model Agency Location Grand Hyatt Jakarta, Jl. M.H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30, Jakarta +62 21 29921234…

The Longines Legend Diver, initially crafted for underwater exploration, has evolved into a sophisticated timepiece for both land and sea. With a rich history spanning over six decades, this watch embodies the perfect blend of heritage, cutting-edge technology and elegance. Now, celebrating its 65th anniversary, the 2024 edition expands with refreshed dials in striking shades of green, terracotta and anthracite gray—all presented on a 39mm stainless-steel case designed for remarkable durability. At the heart of the Legend Diver’s design is its purpose: to deliver precision and reliability in extreme environments. Certified by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) as a chronometer and as an actual diver’s watch under the ISO 6425 standard, this timepiece is tested to perform under challenging conditions. Its 300-meter water resistance ensures reliability even during…

PIAGET Timeless Aura WHEN Piaget’s high jewelry Aura timepiece was first launched in 1989, it created a sensation with its bold design. Featuring baguette-cut diamonds that seamlessly united the bracelet and case, the timepiece was powered by the ultra-thin Piaget Manufacture 40P manual-winding movement—a daring choice in an era dominated by quartz. Now, as the design celebrates its 35th anniversary, Piaget unveils a captivating new addition with a radiant ruby dial. Expertly set, the rubies radiate from the center of the dial, creating a deeply saturated red that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding baguette-cut diamonds. The latest Aura model epitomizes the pinnacle of both high jewelry and watchmaking artistry PIAGET AURA CASE SIZE: 35 X 32.5 MM CASE MATERIAL: WHITE GOLD DIAL: EMERALD-CUT RUBIES MOVEMENT: ULTRA-THIN PIAGET MANUFACTURE MANUAL-WINDING CALIBER…

For aficionados of rare timepieces, Officer’s-style watches by Patek Philippe hold a special allure, particularly when adorned with the artistry of hand-engraving. The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts Ref. 5160/500R-001 reimagines this tradition in rose gold, replacing its white gold predecessor. Its silvery opaline dial features a hand-engraved center, blackened white gold Breguet numerals and pear-shaped hands in black-oxidized yellow gold, creating a harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary elegance. The watch’s 38mm case is a definite masterpiece, showcasing intricate handen-graved volutes and foliage inspired by a pocket watch from the Patek Philippe Museum. Every detail, from the bezel and lugs to the fold-over clasp and even the strap screws, is meticulously crafted. But what truly sets this model apart is its hinged caseback, revealing the sapphire crystal display…

Echoing Emotions This year, two new Oystersteel versions of the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II were unveiled by Rolex. The first watch is equipped with an Oyster bracelet, whereas the second sports a Jubilee bracelet. Both watches are adorned with a 24-hour graduated two-color Cerachrom bezel insert introduced last year in grey and black ceramic. The black lacquer dial prominently displays “GMT-Master II” in green, harmonizing with the color of the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand, a crucial design feature of this model. The latest GMT-Master II is driven by the Calibre 3285, a movement that allows it to indicate the date and an additional time zone in a 24-hour format, along with the standard hours, minutes, and seconds. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II CASE SIZE: 40 MM CASE MATERIAL: OYSTER CASE DIAL:…

Berneron Mirage Sienna The Mirage watch from Berneron is arguably the first shaped watch that derives its asymmetry from its movement, rather than from an external free shape. Designed to allow the mechanics—which includes a large barrel, a direct small seconds display and a pocket watch-style balance wheel—to operate freely, the movement transcends traditional circular designs. This complete lack of symmetry fosters a harmony that is intentionally imperfect—and which is further enhanced by the watch’s all-gold construction. The slim profile of the Berneron Mirage Sienna watch—which was awarded the “Audacity” prize at the esteemed Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—establishes a distinctive contrast. Compared to the more conventional round case design, the asymmetry imparts a distinct character and a strong sense of individuality, ensuring that the piece stands out visually…

De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication At this year’s esteemed Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) ceremony, De Bethune was honored with the Best Watch of the Year award in the highly regarded “Men’s Complication” category for its DB Kind of Grande Complication. This remarkable timepiece exemplifies the innovation and excellence that have become the hallmarks of De Bethune, reflecting two decades of dedicated research and creativity. The challenge embraced by Denis Flageollet and his talented team was to encapsulate the heritage and artistry of De Bethune within an extraordinary timepiece that showcases the technical skill and artistic excellence developed in the brand’s L’Auberson workshops. The award-winning DB Kind of Grande Complication features a unique doublesided reversible case that seamlessly blends aesthetic appeal with advanced technical prowess. This intricate…

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana is a tribute to speed, heritage and shared ambition, merging the prowess of TAG Heuer and Porsche in a single, powerful creation. Limited to 255 pieces, this exclusive timepiece celebrates the 70th anniversary of Porsche’s victory in the famed Carrera Panamericana race, a grueling Mexican rally known for pushing drivers and machines to their limits. The watch’s design reflects the spirit of this legendary race, with stylistic nods to Porsche’s iconic 550 Spyder, which triumphed in the 1954 event. The Carrera Panamericana’s endurance ethos permeates this watch, from its skeleton dial—styled after the 550 Spyder’s wheels and detailed with grained asphalt-textured elements—to its stainless steel case. The dial’s silver, yellow and black colors…

Jaeger-LeCoultre has consistently distinguished itself in the world of high watchmaking through its strong design philosophy. The nearly two-centuries-old watchmaker is also steadfastly dedicated to honoring exceptional craftsmanship and its rich heritage, all while embracing innovation that respects its illustrious history. The stunning array of new timepieces that the maison unveiled at this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva fair deftly exemplifies this notion. From this lineup, the Duomètre line took center stage with the Chronograph Moon, Quantième Lunaire and the distinguished Héliotourbillon Perpetual. A standout among these, the Héliotourbillon Perpetual dazzles with a triple-axis tourbillon and elegant pink gold case, thoughtfully reimagined to evoke the iconic savonette pocket watches of the 19th century. This delicate balance of timeless style with advanced watchmaking speaks volumes about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to heritage and…

Major shifts in leadership at watch brands have always garnered a lot of attention, and for those excited about movement at the top and hopeful about the kind of changes that such changes might bring, 2024 certainly didn’t disappoint. Among the many new appointments to top positions happening at the start of the year, one that certainly drew our attention was the Benoit de Clerck as CEO of ZENITH. The growth of the brand since the last changing of the guard back in 2017 has been nothing short of impressive, thanks in no small part to the strong leadership of former CEO Julien Tornare. So, the new head of ZENITH certainly has his work cut out for him. Of course, de Clerck didn’t get appointed to the position of CEO…

Patek Philippe has introduced a new collection, the Cubitus, bringing with it a bold new look to the realm of luxury sports watches. Known for crafting iconic timepieces, Patek Philippe is not new to breaking boundaries in horological design. The Cubitus collection is no exception: these models stand out for their square cases with rounded edges, innovative finishes and bold, textured dials. A TRIO OF NOVELTIES The Cubitus collection offers three unique models, each with its own personality and a carefully considered combination of materials, movements, and complications. Leading the line is the Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day and Moon Phases Ref. 5822P-001. This model, crafted in platinum, introduces a newly developed complication that combines a large date, moon phase and day of the week, each shifting instantaneously. The complexity…

VACHERON CONSTANTIN One of a Kind THE ÉGÉRIE – The Pleats of Time is a singular piece that fuses haute horlogerie, haute couture and haute parfumerie. This concept watch was born from an artistic collaboration between Vacheron Constantin and designer Yiqing Yin. Central to the design is a pleated mother-of-pearl dial that mimics flowing fabrics, set within a 37mm 18K pink gold case accented by 92 brilliant-cut diamonds. Yiqing Yin also designed an exclusive strap, intricately embroidered with silk threads and inlaid with delicate mother-of-pearl shards. And in these straps, perfumer Dominique Ropion added a sensory dimension, where he meticulously and cleverly steeped encapsulated droplets of fragrance concentrate. These droplets will release subtle notes as the strap interacts with the wearer’s skin, thus awakening the senses through a luxurious interplay…