Da Manの Caliber 2020 の目次

When word came out that the 2020 Summer Olympics was postponed, nobody thought that it was the absolute end of the games. When Baselworld 2020 was postponed—following the exodus of the fair’s few remaining major exhibitors—nobody thought that it would recover. And they were right. The COVID-19 pandemic hit the watchmaking industry especially hard, but the biggest changes we witnessed throughout 2020 had their roots in pre-crisis times. In short, as traditional as watchmakers are—especially those based in Switzerland—they are very much operating in the modern world. The success of LVMH Watch Week Dubai 2020 showcased how the one-size-fits-all approach can no longer meet the needs of individual brands and large groups. Similarly, the success of the online Watches & Wonders Geneva 2020 highlighted the power of—and the need for—digital…

This is a big year for Audemars Piguet, as 2020 marks the opening of its spiral Musée Atelier. Established as an extension to the Swiss watchmaker’s headquarters in Le Brassus near Le Chenit, the new watch museum currently houses a collection that spans over two centuries and consists of more than 300 timepieces. Located at the Vallée de Joux, the museum is recognizable by its spiraling glass pavilion design, which complements the company’s oldest building where Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet set their workshop in 1875. From the outside, the spiral has been designed to perfectly integrate the surrounding landscape. The curved glass walls converge clockwise towards the spiral’s center, before moving in the opposite direction as visitors travel through the building just like they would through the…

CASE SIZE: 40MM CASE MATERIAL: SATIN-FINISHED AND POLISHED 18K ROSE GOLD DIAL: BLUE SUNRAY DIAL STRAP: SATIN-FINISHED AND POLISHED 18K ROSE GOLD BRACELET MOVEMENT: CALIBRE BR-CAL.321 POWER RESERVE: 38 HOURS WATER RESISTANCE: 100M A DIALOGUE OF COLOR Bell & Ross BR 05 Blue Gold Bell & Ross’ BR 05 Blue Gold combines elegance and sophistication in an integrated design. Its satin-finished and polished 18K rose gold case offers a subtle contrast to its navy-blue sunray dial, while the 18L rose gold sapphire case-back gracefully showcases the BR-CAL.321. mechanism with a 360-degree golden oscillating weight. Thanks to its square shape, its intense blue dial that boosts the golden tone and provides elegance and refinement to this timeless sport chic watch, its round dial ensuring optimum legibility, its broad dimensions, and the…

CASE SIZE: 42MM CASE MATERIAL: MICROBLASTED AND POLISHED BLUE CERAMIC DIAL: SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL PROCESSOR: QUALCOMM SNAPDRAGON WEAR 3100 POWER RESERVE: 1 DAY STRAP: BLACK AND BLUE STRUCTURED LINED RUBBER STRAP WATER RESISTANCE: 30M FOR LOVE OF THE GAME Hublot Big Bange UEFA Champions League Hublot’s Big Bange UEFA Champions League comes with a number of features that enrich the UEFA Champions League fan experience. For one, the wearer will get notifications to alert them of kick-off times (15 minutes before the game starts), goals, penalties, substitutions, yellow and red cards as well as time added on. Moreover, the wearer will also have various dials to choose from—downloadable from the Hublot Store—as there are blue digital and analogue options, and also special color-dial that can be customized to match one of…

SECRET SERVICE Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition Omega’s brand new Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition is crafted in platinum-gold, with a platinum-gold plate on its side and engraved with each Numbered Edition number. Furthermore, as part of the Omega James Bond collection that was launched last year, this new watch also includes a hidden number 50—which is a reference to the 50th anniversary of the James Bond film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”—within the Super-LumiNova coating of the 10 o’clock index. Furthermore, with a 007 logo at 7 o’clock on the white enamel minute track, as well as a second Bond family coat-of-arms on the back this watch surely offers plenty of details for 007 fans to enjoy. CASE SIZE: 42MM CASE MATERIAL: PLATINUM-GOLD DIAL:…

MASTER CONTROL MEMOVOX TIMER Continuing the maison’s tradition of adding useful auxiliary functions, the new Master Control Memovox Timer from Jaeger-LeCoultre incorporates an entirely new alarm-setting mechanism. This time, the brand has taken inspiration from the first Memovox watches of the 1950s, giving it a contemporary style, while retaining the spirit of utility and charm that defined the originals. As a result, the dial is laid out in concentric rings, in two shades of blue with a sunray finish and complemented by an inner ring engraved in bas-relief with polished numerals. On this inner ring, the elapsed hours-until alarm is indicated by a small hand tipped with a red JL logo. Moreover, the Memovox’s signature triangular marker—which is set at the outer edge of that ring—points to the time at…

The watch industry was relatively quick to adapt to the fallout of the pandemic, with brands and groups embracing online platforms and various other means to introduce and showcase their latest novelties. But what about the retail side of things? To answer that question, we reached out to Irwan Danny Mussry, President and CEO of Time International, a “brand builder and retailer organization” whose vast portfolio of brands it operates in Indonesia includes Cartier, TAG Heuer, Breitling along with plenty of other names from the realm of fashion. It goes without saying his insight into luxury retail in Indonesia—especially in these trying times—makes for an intriguing read. DAMAN: Hi Pak Irwan, thank you for making the time for us. How are you doing these days? Irwan Danny Mussry: It’s a…

For some of us—and perhaps “all of us” is more accurate—2020 is definitely a tough year, to say the least. Due to the coronavirus pandemic, we are living in truly unprecedented times. For the watchmaking industry, it was clearly time for reevaluation as brands are looking closer at the way it presents itself and its novelties to the public. Compared to previous years, everybody in the industry seemed to be a bit more cautious. All that being said, H. Moser & Cie. seemed to be doing well. Even better, perhaps. Highlights of 2020 for the independent brand includes the launch of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon timepiece in collaboration with MB&F along with the release of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic and Streamliner Centre Seconds. In short, H. Moser & Cie.…

Some movies are promoted as being a recipient of the Palme d’Or award at the latest Cannes Film Festival or having an Oscarnominated actor as the lead. A book, meanwhile, might boast about it being on The New York Times Best Sellers list. As anyone really into high end watches can tell you, though, there is also an award for watchmaking that gives its winners that extra bit of cachet and prestige: The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève aka the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix or simply GPHG for short. THE STARTING LINE The very first GPHG was awarded in 2001, in November of the year. The event has been held every November since then, so by the time you are reading this story, the winners of GPHG 2020 would have…

“What is even more remarkable is that Patek Philippe has an extensive collection of grand complication watches as part of its regular production” There is something inherently intriguing in the way Patek Philippe creates its watches—which are arguably among the best timepieces in the realm of haute horlogerie. While people often talk about, say, the hand finishing on the movements or the Patek Philippe Seal, an even more remarkable aspect of the Genevan watch manufacture is its long line of grand complications. Before we continue, let’s take a quick look at the definition of a grand complication watch. In the world of watchmaking, a “complication” refers to anything that a mechanical watch might do beyond telling the time. Simple date displays are usually not counted as a complication. So, we’re…

CASE SIZE: 45MM CASE MATERIAL: 18K WHITE GOLD SET WITH 102 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS DIAL: 18K WHITE GOLD SET WITH 241 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS STRAP: BLACK RUBBER AND BLACK ALLIGATOR STRAP MOVEMENT: CALIBRE HUB1710 POWER RESERVE: 50 HOURS WATER RESISTANCE: 50M A PRECIOUS PIECE Hublot Classic Fusion High Jewellery This year, in an invisible closed setting that allows the merest glimpse of 18K white gold, no fewer than 391 diamonds encrust the elegantly contemporary Hublot’s Classic Fusion High Jewellery. A composition of rectangular and trapeze-cut stones covers the entire surface of the dial, converging in the center beneath which beats the HUB1710 self-winding movement. Furthermore, the buckle on the alligator leather and natural rubber strap is also set with 36 diamonds. If anything, with its horological technology and materials, it’s safe to…

RECORD BREAKER Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon Introduced at this year’s LVMH Watch Week Dubai, the indisputable highlight of the 2020 debuts from Bvlgari was the new Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. As the smallest women’s tourbillon in the watch world, this unique small-sized timepiece is specially designed to fit inside the sleek dimensions of the serpent-head case. We are talking, naturally, about the latest incarnation of Bvlgari’s most iconic watch: the Serpenti. Driving the watch is a rare tourbillon movement for women, the BVL150 Caliber. This movement represents that synthesis of Swiss knowledge and jewelry-making savoirfaire that only Bvlgari can execute. Finally, the new Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon models come in rose gold or white gold with diamond pavé and a leather strap or white gold with diamond pavé and a full diamond…

BACK TO BASICS Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 Longines revisits one of its iconic heritage pieces with a new version of The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935. As the name suggests, this chronograph is a reinterpretation of the Type A-7 model ordered by the U.S. Air Force back in 1935. Faithful to the original model, this new variation comes with a black dial shifted 40-degrees to the right. This particular orientation of the dial allowed pilots to read the indices without having to release the plane’s control yoke. Aside to that, the watch also adopts the specifications of the historic model with its “train track” chapter ring and matt black dial. If anything, this is truly a testimony to the brand’s historic ties with the world of aviation.…

Devilishly Striking Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus in Machina Excalibur Diabolus in Machina The from Roger Dubuis combines a minute repeater, which is one of the most challenging horological complications to achieve, with the famous flying tourbillon that has been an integral part of the brand’s identity right from the start. The wearer can check the time using a push piece that activates a ring tone with a low pitch for the hours, a high pitch for the minutes and two tones for the quarter hours. More importantly, Roger Dubuis has chosen to tune its minute repeater to the sound of the tritone, the famous “Diabolus in Musica” chord outlawed in medieval religious music, thereby offering listeners a uniquely enchanting sensory experience. CASE SIZE: 45MM CASE MATERIAL: CARTECH MICRO-MELT BIODUR CCMTM DIAL:…

OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER Rolex introduces the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual Submariner this year with a redesigned, slightly larger 41 mm case—whose profile is highlighted by the light reflections from the case sides and lugs—which is also fitted on a re-modelled bracelet. True to its aesthetic heritage, the new Submariner in Oystersteel has a black dial and rotatable bezel with matching Cerachrom insert up front. Speaking of which, the Submariner also features a Chromalight display, an innovation that improves visibility in dark environments as the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in dark conditions. Completed with the Superlative Chronometer certification that ensures excellent performance on the wrist as well as the newly launched calibre 3230, which is…

Piaget is a traditional watch brand with deepseated roots in classical haute horlogerie that go back almost one-and-a-half centuries. At the same time, it is a modern watchmaker that has continued to innovate in terms of craftsmanship and design, while also effectively embracing the digital future of the industry. The former is on full display at this year’s online Watches & Wonders event, while the latter is perhaps best exemplified by Piaget’s virtual boutique that was launched earlier this year in Singapore. A while ago, we had the opportunity to chat with Quentin Hebert, Piaget’s Head of Watch Marketing, whose position and experience has resulted in a deep understanding about watchmaking that makes for a very compelling narrative. DAMAN: The traditional period when new novelties are traditionally unveiled at Watches…

Things are changing at Swatch Group and LVMH Group. For the latter, LVMH announced the appointment of Frédéric Arnault to the role of CEO of TAG Heuer. Meanwhile, Stéphane Bianchi assumed the role of CEO of the Watches and Jewelry Division. This will see him take the reins of jewelry maisons Chaumet and Fred, in addition to TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith. Swatch Group also announced several changes in management for some of its watch brands. Of particular note, the legendary Walter von Känel of Longines, who has been in the industry for over fifty years, announced his retirement. Matthias Breschan—formerly head of Rado—has been appointed as the new CEO of Longines. Furthermore, Sylvain Dolla takes over as CEO of Tissot while François Thiébaud has been appointed Chairman of the…

CASE SIZE: 42MM CASE MATERIAL: STEEL DIAL:SILVER DIAL MOVEMENT: OMEGA CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER CALIBRE 3861 POWER RESERVE: 50 HOURS STRAP: COATED NYLON FABRIC STRAP WATER RESISTANCE: 50M AND THE AWARD GOES TO Omega Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary Omega has released its Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary with Snoopy appearing as an embossed silver medallion on the blue sub-dial at 9 o’clock. This time, he is shown wearing his famous spacesuit upfront, in the exact style of the unique 925 sterling silver pin that NASA astronauts gave to award recipients. Meanwhile, at the back, there is an animated black and white Command and Service Module (CSM) on a magical hand, with Snoopy as a passenger. On top of that, a vision of Earth is also included in the…

ONE OF A KIND TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Heuer 02 TAG Heuer has revealed its second collaboration with the Godfather of Streetwear, Hiroshi Fujiwara, with a one-of-a-kind design. Building on the resounding success of its first creation with the Japanese designer and his Fragment Design label in 2018, the latest collaboration between the two brands has resulted in a daring reinterpretation of TAG Heuer’s signature motor-racing-inspired C-case models from the 1960s and 1970s—a case shape also found in the brand’s present-day collections. Titled TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Heuer 02, the watch is equipped with a manufacture movement, the Calibre Heuer 02. As a testament to Hiroshi Fujiwara’s sense of design and TAG Heuer’s disruptive motorsport legacy, it is truly a collector’s timepiece of the first order. CASE SIZE:…

Spirit of simplicity Chopard L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton Chopard introduced its first partnership with the Kiton Ateliers, masters of Italian tailoring, with the L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton timepiece. This strictly limited edition of 100 ultra-thin timepieces comes in beadblasted DLCcoated steel, and is soberly attired with a houndstooth-patterned dial and a slatecolored cashmere strap lined with red alligator leather. The watch is perfectly proportioned thanks to a 40mm diameter case that is a mere 7.2mm thick. Equipped with the L.U.C 96.53-L mechanical movement and Chopard Twin technology, this ultra-thin look enables genuine wearer comfort and imposes an aura of simplicity—two imperatives that sum up the philosophy of the L.U.C collection and contribute to its famed elegance. CASE SIZE: 40MM CASE MATERIAL: BEADBLASTED DLC-COATED STEEL DIAL: BLACK AND GRAY…

TAG HEUER CARRERA SPORT CHRONOGRAPH 160 YEARS SPECIAL EDITION Throughout 2020, TAG Heuer has commemorated its 160th anniversary with special editions of its signature TAG Heuer Carrera chronograph collection. Recently, the brand has released the last of the year’s three limited-edition releases with the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Special Edition. This time, the watch is inspired by the classic Heuer “Dato 45,” which in 1965 was notably the first Heuer wrist chronograph ever to feature a turning date disc. As we can see upfront, this special watch has its date window positioned at 12 o’clock just like its famous ancestor. Meanwhile, at the back, the stainless-steel screw-down case back is engraved with the words “One of 1860,” indicating its limited-edition status. As a final touch, the watch…

Looking back at the state of the watch industry throughout the first half of 2020 can be quite thought-provoking. Events were cancelled, new events with new formats were announced, launches were delayed, new novelties were unveiled. And, of course, there were also new names and old names with new titles. Perhaps the most important this year is Matthias Breschan, the new CEO of Longines. Breschan is definitely not a newcomer to the scene, having previously managed two other brands under Swatch Group—namely Hamilton for seven years and, more recently, Rado for nine years. His appointment to the spot of Longines also came with the announcement of Walter von Känel’s retirement. It goes without saying that Breschan had his work cut out for him. Yet, despite facing unprecedented challenges, Longines has…

Nobody can deny the appeal of Japanese craftsmanship. Grand Seiko, which fetes its 60th anniversary this year, has been a master in precision, quality, beauty and, of course, craftsmanship. It was only in the late 1950s when a small team of Seiko’s finest watchmakers came together with a very simple yet ambitious aim: To create the very best watch of which they were capable, with the highest possible levels of precision, legibility, durability and ease of use. Then, in December 1960, their first creation was born and, in keeping with the team’s ambition and desire to create the “king” of watches, it was named Grand Seiko. It had a level of accuracy equivalent to the superior grade of the recognized chronometer standards at the time and it marked the first…

Baselworld used to be the most important experience platform for the global watchmaking, jewelry, gemstone and related industries. Building on a tradition started over a century ago, it has become the annual must-attend trade show where discerning buyers, influential media and savvy connoisseurs unite as a community to discover and experience new trends and innovations showcased by top brands first-hand, and share these globally. At one time, over 150,000 visitors from more than 100 countries around the world came to Baselworld to admire innovations presented by 1,500 exhibitors. However, you have to accept the fact that sometimes certain things will never go back to how they used to be. Last year, I was there on behalf of DA MAN and our sister publication Prestige Indonesia, alongside 3,300 other media representatives—which…

Throughout its long and rich history, Maison Cartier has introduced quite a few iconic—and much beloved—watch collections. There’s the Santos de Cartier, obviously; then there’s also the various Tank variants, also the unique Crashwatch and many more, especially when we go into the realm of ladies’ watches. 2020, however, is most definitely the year of Pasha de Cartier. While perhaps newer than many other Cartier watch collections, the Pasha excels in its own right with an emblematic design and an intriguing history. Named after the last and greatest Pasha of Marrakech – a lover of fine watchmaking and lifelong customer of Louis Cartier – the Pasha de Cartier might be rather young compared to the likes of the Santos or the Tank, but it has gained quite a cult following…

CASE SIZE: 40 MM CASE MATERIAL: STAINLESS STEEL DIAL: RED-WINE GUILLOCHÉ LACQUERED DIAL STRAP: SHINY ALLIGATOR STRAP MOVEMENT:CALIBRE 657 POWER RESERVE: N/A WATER RESISTANCE: 30M The Color of Love Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One For 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced new aesthetic interpretations of its classic and most immediately recognizable watches of all time: the Reverso. In particular, for the Reverso One, the maison introduces fresh colors and new refinement. Distinguished by the strength and purity of lines derived from the original Art Deco design, this beautifully understated composition receives a jolt of bold color, with a vivid new red-wine dial. Achieved by applying multiple layers of lacquer over a subtle sunray guilloché pattern and complemented by white numerals and the cool shine of the polished steel case, the watch is completed with a…

NATURAL BEAUTY Breguet Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia The House of Breguet depicts the Posidonia oceanica–an aquatic plant essential to the sea’s balance–on the new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia through the art of mother-of-pearl marquetry and invisible setting. Set with 85 baguette-cut diamonds, the dial appears to ripple across the intense iridescence of Tahitian mother-of-pearl, which appears deeply colored or silvery depending on the light. The magnificent setting continues on the bezel, case-band, lugs of the strap and also the clasp of the buckle. Needless to say, through Breguet’s extensive artisanship and expertise, the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia is an exquisite reflection of the fascinating natural beauty of the seas. CASE SIZE: 38.5MM CASE MATERIAL: 18K WHITE GOLD DIAL: TAHITIAN MOTHEROF-PEARL STRAP: IRIDESCENT LEATHER STRAP MOVEMENT: BREGUET CALIBRE…