Sommaire pour December 2023/January 2024 de Wanderlust

Highlights: “I feel like a big kid,” I thought to myself as I hurtled the tundra on a husky-pulled sled in temperatures of -24°C. For the sixth year in a row, Finland has been voted the world’s happiest country (Gallup World Poll), and I could see why. I was based well within the Arctic Circle, close to Saariselkä but a long way from the Santa sightseers. This is a place to relax, go slow and enjoy the serenity of snowshoeing in the wilderness. I dipped into icy lakes and surfaced looking ten years younger, enjoyed reindeer rides and endless cups of blueberry tea, then headed back to my luxurious glass-igloo cabin in the evenings to see the northern lights dance nightly overhead. Must see: I travelled with Not in the…

“The Raeburn Orchards in Perth Hills, Australia, turn a fiery orange in persimmon season (May).” @homeintheworldblog “Wandering the quaint streets of Colmar, France, feels like stepping into the pages of an enchanting fairytale.” @worldcitizensud “While exploring Antigua’s backroads, north of Half Moon Bay, its colours seemed to capture the Caribbean vibe.” Rhett Arens “It was a long ride to Chiang Mai with no air-con when this man opened the door to let in a breeze.” @sheradon.travelarchive “The blast furnaces of Belval, although now shut down, are a link to Luxembourg’s long industrial past.” Ewelina Dziedzic “The Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, USA, is a surreal landscape formed over 150 million years ago.” @wayne_and_ling “Philadelphia’s Eastern State Penitentiary was built to inspire penitence. Visiting it is both humbling and…

The home of Sydney Opera House was named after Eora man Woollawarre Bennelong, who lived here during the early days of British colonisation 233 designs were considered, via an international competition in 1956 1 million Swedish roof tiles cover the structure 7 A380 aircraft (the world’s largest passenger airliner) can sit wing to wing across the site Queen Elizabeth II opened the opera house on 20 October 1973 22.5 degrees is the required temperature when the Sydney Symphony Orchestra is on stage 10.9 million people visit Sydney Opera House each year Source: sydneyoperahouse.com…

Paper to Google Maps Wanderlust once advised readers not to be so blatantly obvious when using paper maps abroad, as looking like a tourist can increase your chance of being targeted by muggers! Now, it’s easy enough to blend in with the invention of Google Maps, as everyone these days seems to be looking down at their phones anyway, sadly - but perhaps just turn down the volume on the spoken directions. Although it saves a huge amount of time when it comes to plotting routes, and prevents you from getting lost, we do miss this part of the adventure. Postcards to social posts How did you used to share your travel memories? Perhaps you sent a postcard with your travel tales to your loved ones, or if on a…

Geography: The Capital Region consists of Washington DC and the states of Virginia, Maryland and Delaware. Getting there: Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD) welcomes daily non-stop flights from London Heathrow with British Airways (ba.com), American (americanairlines.co.uk) and Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com). Flights cost from £420 return and take eight hours. If you fly in from elsewhere in the US, you’ll likely land at Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA), which is only four metro stops from Union Station. Getting around: A SmarTrip Card is a good way of getting about in the Capital Region; this can be used on the Metrorail, Metrobus, DC Circulator and bus networks in Virginia and Maryland. In Baltimore, water taxis are an affordable way to reach waterfront locations. In Alexandria, a free trolley bus links the…

Getting there and around: Multiple airlines fly from London Heathrow to Brisbane, typically via a connection in Doha, Dubai, Los Angeles or Singapore, with flights taking from around 23 hours. Bundaberg is a four-hour drive north of Brisbane International Airport, passing the beaches of the Sunshine Coast and crossing the former gold-mining region of Gympie. It’s also possible to fly direct from Brisbane to Bundaberg Regional Airport with Qantas (qantas.com); this takes about 55 minutes and costs from £109 one way. Scenic flights from Bundaberg to Lady Elliot Island are included in the cost of day visits and overnight packages, which start at £277pp for a day trip (ladyelliot.com.au). Activities: Bundaberg is the southernmost access point to the Great Barrier Reef islands of Lady Elliot and Lady Musgrave, but it’s…

The Arctic With temperatures rising and sea ice (unfortunately) reducing, will many more of us be heading north to enjoy a bit of midnight sun? Greenland, Svalbard, Arctic Canada, Alaska and Far North Russia will surely benefit from tourism, with visitors wanting to experience traditional culture, wildlife and adventure activities. Saudi Arabia With ambitious social and economic changes underway, tourism is one of the key pillars at the heart of the country’s Vision 2030 economic plan, and it has well and truly opened its doors to international travellers. Saudi has set a target of 70 million visitors a year by 2030, and as the biggest country in the Middle East, with a wealth of historic and cultural sites, an unspoiled stretch of Red Sea coast and a variety of landscapes,…

Day 1 Bari and Trani Start in Bari by visiting the Centro Storico neighbourhood, watching the nonnas roll out their pasta in the narrow lanes leading off it and exploring the Romanesque Basilica di San Nicola and Cattedrale di San Sabino. Next, head to the seaport town of Trani, whose waterfront cathedral is a masterpiece of Pugliese Romanesque. Day 2 Gargano peninsula Aim for the whitewashed town of Vieste, where you can take a boat tour of the Gargano’s dramatic coast (grottemarinegargano.com). Spare some time to visit the pre-Christian dream cave that became the pilgrim site of Monte Sant’Angelo. Day 3 Castel del Monte and the trulli of Valle d’Itria Make a beeline to the most peculiar castle in Italy: Castel del Monte. Then, after a beach break at Polignano…

Besides breakfast, lunch and dinner, Chileans also have a fourth meal, known as la once (the eleven). It was inspired by the British tradition of elevenses, which was brought over by merchants, engineers and miners in the 19th century and is eaten in late afternoon. It often features a mix of sandwiches - or bread, butter, cheese and jam - and cakes, tarts and doughy croissants known as medialunas, as well as pastries that often feature manjar (Chile’s take on dulce de leche). Café de la Candelaria on Avenida Italia in Santiago and Emporio La Rosa (emporiolarosa.cl) in Valparaíso are both good places to try it for yourself.…

What inspired you to become a tour guide in Morocco? I’ve always wanted to be in a job that could change people’s lives. As a tour guide here, I have the chance to make a significant impact, whether it’s ensuring that my guests have a good time or by bringing people together, such as when we visit the tents of nomads or share a meal with a local family. It’s incredible how something as simple as a glass of mint tea can remind us that we are all fundamentally the same. Was it hard to break into the guiding industry at first? When I first entered the world of guiding, I faced the challenge of securing a place in a male-dominated industry. It became evident that I had to put…

LYNN BROWN Capital Region, p80 Sixty years after the March on Washington took place in the USA capital, journalist and professor Lynn Brown heads to Washington DC to explore its legacy and the effect it has had on the area: “While in many ways it seems like we’re still struggling with the same issues they were protesting all those years ago, I found that in others it seems like there’s a lot more support in the USA - even from large institutions - for more forward movement towards equality.” RADHIKA ALIGH Dream Sleep, p61 Journalist, filmmaker and travel writer Radhika visits one of South Africa’s most eco-conscious safari lodges to see if it is possible to both leave no trace and support the area around you: “Sustainability has become catch-all…

The rise of West Bengal As a Bengali, I could not help but feel pride at West Bengal’s Shantiniketan ‘world university’ being recognised as an UNESCO World Heritage site (see p27), especially as I’d visited it days before its inscription. This followed on the heels of Kolkata’s Durga Puja festival being recognised for its Intangible Cultural Heritage, so it’s rewarding to see the region get the recognition it deserves, since West Bengal has never been on India’s tourist track. The state has more to offer, too, whether it is the chhau dancers of Purulia, the terracotta temples of Bishnupur (pictured) or the painters of Kalighat and Pingla. There is also an interesting colonial past that goes beyond just the British - the city of Chandannagar has more than a whiff…

NOV 1993 WANDERLUST HITS THE SHELVES After scheming the idea on a flight to Ecuador, Lyn Hughes and Paul Morrison publish the first issue of Wanderlust, now the UK’s longest-running consumer travel magazine. JAN 1994 THE ORIGINAL ’TRAVEL BLOG’ Facebook was ten years away when US journalist Jeff Greenwald posted a series of ‘live’ online travel pieces called ‘Big World’ on the now-defunct Global Network Navigator site. He even uploaded the first image from Kathmandu - it took 14 hours to send! SUMMER 1994 E-TRAVEL LAUNCHED The USA’s Southwest Airlines rolled out e-tickets for the first time in 1994. The following year, a start-up in Palo Alto called Internet Travel Network claimed to have overseen the first online ticket booking. It would become the first of billions. FEB 2004 FACEBOOK…

IN ASSOCIATION WITH Readers get 10% off by using the code ‘Wandering’ on the Stanfords website (www.stanfords.co.uk). Wanderlust members can get 25% off. Türkiye by Julian Sayarer Quercus; £25 Stanfords Book of The Month for October 2023 Sayarer pedals his way across Turkey, from the Aegean coast to the Armenian border, meeting farmers, workers, Syrian refugees and Russians avoiding conscription. The result is a love letter to the country and its neighbours, but one that also doesn’t shy away from the many issues. Great Scottish Walks by Helen & Paul Webster Vertebrate Publishing; £25 All you need to know to trek 26 of Scotland’s finest long-distance trails from the brains behind the Walkhighlands website. If you’ve ever been marooned mid-walk without a bed in the Highlands, then this practical overview…

1 It pays to consult a travel clinic before you set off, as you may need to update your vaccines. Also, bring over-the-counter remedies for diarrhoea, sickness and rehydration. 2 We’ve all got used to having hand sanitiser, so pack some hygiene essentials. And make sure that your travel insurance is up to date and easily found if needed. 3 Wash your hands even more frequently than normal. 4 Stay hydrated and keep an eye on your urine - if it gets any darker than the colour of pale straw or white wine, you need to drink more. Dehydration can make you feel really sick, really quickly. 5 Good resources for travellers are the US (cdc.gov/travel) and UK governments’ travel-advice sites (gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice).…

The sound of free-flowing water can sometimes give the illusion of being closer than it is. At Noka Camp, I searched for the source of this burble only to discover that I’d wandered to the edge of a clifftop and was staring down at the Palala River below as it crashed against the rocks of the Lapalala reserve. It was only when my gaze shifted back to where I’d come from that I realised that the five sandy-coloured tents that were my temporary home barely seemed to touch the rugged ground. Low-impact tourism, conservation and human development are at the heart of Lepogo Lodges, which runs Noka Camp, just three hours’ drive north of Johannesburg in the Waterberg region. The lodge has been constructed to leave as little footprint as…

Getting there: VentureSail (venturesailholidays.com) offers a seven-night itinerary sailing the Saronic Islands, departing from and returning to Athens’ Piraeus Port. Prices start from £3,075pp and include accommodation, water and all meals apart from one, which guests are encouraged to enjoy ashore. Prices exclude international flights, train transfers and taxis to and from Piraeus. British Airways (ba.com) operates daily direct flights to Athens from London Heathrow from £140 return, taking about 3 hours and 45 minutes. When to go: The Saronic Islands are a year-round destination, with temperatures reaching 35°C in summer and 15°C in winter. Peak season (July and August) is best avoided; try to travel during the low and shoulder seasons instead - particularly between late April and June and from September to early November. Where to eat: In…

1 Ben’s Chili Bowl, Washington DC Ben’s Chili Bowl has been a staple in the U Street neighbourhood for generations, and even provided food to protesters during the March on Washington. In fact, this local institution recently celebrated its 65th anniversary. Be sure to swing by to try its famous halfsmoke sausage in a bun with chilli sauce. benschilibowl.com 2 Georgia Brown’s, Washington DC This Black-owned restaurant is a more recent institution. Known for its delicious brunches and live music, it serves up elevated ‘Low Country cuisine’ reminiscent of some of the soul-food restaurants found further down the coast in South Carolina. gbrowns.com 3 Cuples Tea House, Baltimore Owned by Eric and Lynnette Dodson, who utilised the city’s Boost programme to start up, this charming tea house in the Howard…

Just beneath the water’s surface, walls of iridescent fish hovered and bobbed in the current, the filtered sunshine reflecting off their fins. Below them, colourful parrotfish made their rounds, while a school of big-eyed trevally moved slowly along the seabed, unaffected by my presence. To them, I was just another small fish in the big azure sea surrounding Queensland’s Lady Elliot Island. A short flight from Bundaberg, this remote island off Australia’s east coast marks the southernmost coral cay of the Great Barrier Reef. It’s best known for its large marine species. The deep waters of the continental shelf are just kilometres away and an upwelling of nutrients attracts humpback whales, sea turtles, sharks and manta rays to the area. Included among this collection is the bizarre Inspector Clouseau, a…

Sunshine glittered on the water’s surface like eight-carat diamonds, and every stroke of my paddle set off a chain reaction of sparkling ripples. Swamp laurel oaks and cabbage palms leaned inquisitively over the water’s edge, as if to see who was disturbing their peace. Everything else was still. I was kayaking through Florida’s Rock Springs Run State Reserve, a 5,700-hectare semi-tropical wilderness that lies a 30-minute drive from Orlando - not that you’d know it. Just 150 years ago, this was what most of the region looked like, and it was a side to Florida I hadn’t expected to encounter when I set out to explore a newly expanded rail route across the state. But as I followed its tracks further, a remarkable history started to unravel. Back in the…

National Archaeological Museum Delve into the history of humanity at this Neoclassical museum near the northern end of El Retiro park. Among the outstanding exhibits are Celtic and Egyptian pieces, pre-historic displays from the Iberian Peninsula and an Andalucían collection that includes an incredible Mudéjar ceiling. man.es Museum of the Americas Spain overran much of the Americas, conquering the Aztec, Inca and Maya empires. This museum provides insight into these pre-conquest cultures and civilisations, without shying away from the more difficult aspects of this era of colonisation. Collections include masks, carvings, gold and paintings made from multi-coloured feathers. esmadrid.com Museum of Romanticism A window on the cultural, political and everyday life of Madrid’s aristocracy during the Romantic Period of the 1800s. Set in the former palace of the Marquis of…

International dialling code:+39 Currency: Euro (€) Getting there: EasyJet (easyjet.com) and Ryanair (ryanair.com) regularly fly to Bari from London Gatwick and Stansted respectively. Ryanair also flies nonstop to Brindisi from Stansted and operates seasonal flights from Manchester in the summer. Flights cost from around £79 return and take just under three hours. Getting around: If you are sticking to Puglia’s cities and towns, it’s easy to get around by train and bus. But if time is short, you’ll want to hire a car at a major train station or airport. Do book early in summer to avoid disappointment. Weather: Summers are hot and dry, making the area perfect for coastal escapes (do all your touring in the morning, before the afternoon siesta). Spring and autumn are ideal for walking, cycling…

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, Santiago This museum has a vast collection of Indigenous artworks and artefacts spanning 10,000 years and most of Latin America. Highlights include exhibits of items from Rapa Nui (Easter Island), Aymara silver jewellery and Inca quipu, an ancient system of colourful knotted threads used to keep records and convey messages. museo.precolombino.cl Museo de la Memoria y Ios Derechos Humanos, Santiago A visit to the glass-fronted Museum of Memory and Human Rights is essential for understanding modern Chile. It uses multimedia displays to provide insight into the human rights abuses of the Pinochet dictatorship, during which more than 3,000 people were killed and many more ‘disappeare’, tortured, detained or exiled. mmdh.cl Cerros Alegre and Concepción, Valparaíso These labyrinthine neighbourhoods were once home to wealthy European traders.…

Highlights: The Asitz has been dubbed the ‘mountain of the senses’, and it’s easy to see why this peak in western Austria, overlooking the twin towns of Saalfelden and Leogang, has earned such a moniker. High up on the mountaintop sits a ‘nature cinema’, which consists of terraces of hammocks and benches installed not only as a practical way to reduce the risk of landslides in this erosion-prone area, but also to prompt hikers to pause for a while to admire the natural spectacle on show around them. Surrounding you are towering mountains on all sides, while an expansive view of the Steinernes Meer (meaning ‘Rocky Sea’) karst plateau that divides this region from Bavaria also yields bright blue skies, cotton-wool clouds clinging to the peaks and the occasional flash…

Japan’s digital art museum teamLab Borderless (pictured top) reopens in a new central Tokyo location in the Azabudai Hills development in January. Expect familiar works alongside exciting new immersive installations. teamlab.art A series of pieces by Black artists set on the banks of the USA’s Alabama River is bringing the stories of enslaved Africans to life. Freedom Monument Sculpture Park in Montgomery, Alabama, is part of the Equal Justice Initiative and is due to open in early 2024. legacysites.eji.org Pablo Picasso is known for his paintings but he was also a prolific sculptor, often using found objects. The Guggenheim Bilbao marks 50 years since his death with Picasso Sculptor: Matter and Body (until 14 Jan), an exhibition delving into this work. guggenheim-bilbao.eus Mongolia’s medieval history takes centre stage at France’s…

Why would anyone buy a travel magazine?” said the representative of WHSmith, then by far the biggest retailer of magazines in the UK. “They can get a free brochure from a holiday company.” It was 1993, and my partner, Paul Morrison, and I had decided to launch a travel magazine, having had the idea on a flight to Ecuador. We knew there must be other people like us who wanted to explore the world and whose idea of travel went far beyond lying by a hotel swimming pool. There had been other travel magazines launched but none had lasted, and many ‘experts’ predicted we would fail too. Indeed, a few months after we brought out our first issue, put together in our spare room, I was in the audience of…

Take inspiration from travel leaders around the globe with a new book charting their crisis response to the COVID-19 pandemic. The Call to Leadership (Whitefox Publishing; £20) by Canadian travel expert Anita Mendiratta features interviews with 20 of the world’s foremost business leaders, offering insights into how to navigate a crisis - personal or professional - and emerge stronger. Are you a travel mastermind? Test your travel know-how or challenge your friends and family this festive season with the Wanderlust Ultimate Travel Quiz Book (shop.wanderlust.co.uk; £9.99). It’s packed with new quizzes and the toughest questions around, guaranteed to stump even the most intrepid adventurers. What better Christmas present for the explorer in your life? Or why not go a step further and buy them a gift subscription to Wanderlust and claim…

TRAVEL THROUGH TIME IN ICELAND Hopping between two diverging tectonic plates in Iceland’s Thingvellir National Park is one of many primeval highlights on Audley Travel’s tailor-made Northern Lights Winter Break in Iceland. You might also be lucky enough to admire the aurora shimmering above bubbling mud pools and black-sand beaches on the Reykjanes Peninsula. As well as driving the highlights of the Golden Circle (including Gulfoss waterfall and Geysir’s hot-water spouts) and dropping in on the Blue Lagoon in the quieter winter months, you’ll don crampons to trek on the Sólheimajökull glacier surrounded by white-capped volcanoes. Afterwards, return to your hotel’s astronomical observatory to gaze at starlight that began its journey across the cosmos some 2.5 million years ago. Audley Travel (audleytravel.com). Flexible dates; 6 days from £5,495pp, including international…

The lesser-known Cyclades Did you know there are about 220 islands in Greece’s famous Cyclades group? A 10-day itinerary with VentureSail on the Rhea takes in a handful of more famous stops, including Syros, Delos and Mykonos, along with lesser known isles such as Andros and Kea. Be prepared for some hiking through grassland in search of archaeological sites, as well as taking in glorious taverna views while sipping on local wines. Ionian delights A springtime voyage on the Kairós starts and ends in Corfu. This eight-day itinerary explores the island cluster of Paxi, Ithaca and Lefkada, where Greek and Italian cultures come together in the Ionian Sea. Enjoy locally produced wine on Antipaxos and learn more about the mythological Greek king and adventurer Odysseus on Ithaca. Every day brings…

1 National Museum of African American History & Culture, Washington DC The largest museum dedicated exclusively to the history of African Americans, this Smithsonian institution is a must for ail visitors. Exhibitions follow the history of the Black community, while the upstairs galleries delve into its historic accomplishments and cultural impacts, nmaahc.si.edu 2 Manumission Tour Company, Alexandria Manumission offers several different historical walking tours through Old Town Alexandria, Virginia, focusing on the history of its African American community. manumissiontours.com 3 Freedom House, Alexandria Once the location of the largest slave-trading firm in the US, this building serves as a museum that honours the memory of those who were trafficked and focuses on the contributions of African American Virginians. freedomhouse.org 4 Lillie Carroll Jackson Civil Rights Museum, Baltimore Located in the…

Australia’s Aboriginal peoples have lived in harmony with the land and sea for tens of thousands of years. Increasingly, their perspective and knowledge are being called upon to help manage the reef for future generations. Here are two ways you can learn more from them. Lady Musgrave’s Taribelang Overnight Experience On this three-day departure from Bundaberg, visitors join a team of marine biologists and Taribelang Bunda guides for an all-inclusive retreat on the reef. You’ll spend your days learning about local Aboriginal culture and history, taking guided snorkelling tours and eating meals prepared with indigenous ingredients. At night, retire to your on-deck glamping tent on the Lady Musgrave pontoon or sleep next to the fish in its underwater observatory. ladymusgraveexperience.com.au Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel Up in Cairns, there are countless…

Getting there and around: Several airlines fly direct to Orlando International, including British Airways (ba.com), which has return flights from £374. These take around nine hours. When you’re in Florida, take advantage of the new Brightline (gobrightline.com) service as an alternative to a hire car; one-way trips from Orlando to Miami start from £65 and take around 3.5 hours. Currency: US dollar ($), currently around $1.221 to the UK£. Credit cards are widely accepted. Accommodation: In Winter Park, The Alfond Inn (doubles from £230pn; open year-round; thealfondinn.com) is a stylish boutique bolthole that offers a relaxing sanctuary close to the city’s main Park Avenue thoroughfare. In Palm Beach, the White Elephant (doubles from £405pn; open year-round; whiteelephantpalmbeach.com) feels effortlessly beach-chic, thanks to its combination of Spanish Colonial design and smart…

ACROSS NORMANDY As the cradle of Impressionism, Normandy is pulling out all the stops for the 150th anniversary. The main event will be the Normandy Impressionist Festival, a six-month-long programme with 150 events taking place in cultural sites and public spaces around the region. 22 Mar–22 Sep; normandie-impressionniste.fr GIVERNY One upcoming highlight of the Impressionist Festival is to be found at the Musée des Impressionnismes, where the Impressionism and the Sea exhibition will showcase the works of artists such as Eugène Boudin, Johan Barthold Jongkind, Claude Monet, and Gustave Courbet, exploring their enduring fascination with coastal life. 29 Mar–30 Jun; mdig.fr ROUEN Another festival highlight arrives at the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen, which is staging the James Abbott McNeill Whistler: The Butterfly Effect exhibition. This will feature up to…

Location: Trogir lies in central Dalmatia, a 27km drive west of Split, though it’s actually closer to Split’s airport (which is about 5km away) than the city. Regular buses run from the airport to Trogir and cost about £1.70; the journey time is 10 minutes. Getting around: Most of Trogir’s Old Town has been pedestrianised and the whole island is so compact that you can walk from one end to the other in less than 10 minutes. If you are staying on the island of Čiovo, where the area’s best beaches are found, you might want to rent a bike. When to go: Any time, although July and August can be extremely hot and very crowded, so are best avoided. Try shoulder season or winter for a much more pleasant…

CYCLE the Alta Murgia National Park, where a local company offers mountain-bike and e-bike hire as well as half-day guided tours of the area’s dolines (karstic sinkholes), blazing-red bauxite mines, ancient masserie and almond groves, from which the locals make vegan cheese. 4cyclingandtrek.com SAIL to the Tremiti Islands, off the Gargano peninsula, and take a boat tour of their cave-pocked coasts. San Nicola has a fortress-monastery and a beautiful sandy beach, whereas San Domino, the largest of the Tremitis, is famous for its breeding falcons and a cave that was used in the 1961 film The Guns of Navarone. LEARN howto create the classics of Puglian cuisine. With the Leccebased Awaiting Table cookery school, you’ll visit the local fish market and prepare homemade orecchiette (the region’s ‘little ears’ pasta), antipasto,…

Getting there: British Airways (ba.com) operates regular direct flights between London Heathrow and Santiago from around £784 return, taking from 14.5 hours. Getting around: Frequent buses connect the cities of Santiago and Valparaíso; the journey takes around 1.5 hours and there is no need to book ahead. More information: The new edition of Lonely Planet’s Chile guidebook (co-written by the author of this feature) was published in September. The Chilean tourist board’s official website (chile.travel) is also a useful resource for travellers.…

“So many parts of Shetland fire my imagination, especially the beautiful beaches and lonely landscapes in the northern isles of Yell, Unst and Fetlar. I’ve also grown to love the coastline on Shetland’s Mainland: places like Troswickness and the shores of the South Mainland, such as West Voe and Quendale. I am hugely fortunate to live on a beach, so a lot of my inspiration is right here on my doorstep.” Ruth Brownlee (ruthbrownlee.co.uk) is a Shetland artist who exhibits at Yell’s The Shetland Gallery…

GO WILD at Up Helly Aa in Lerwick. January’s annual ‘fire festival’ creeps into all areas of life here and reaches its zenith with its fiery marches and the burning of a galley ship. Arrive on 30 January 2024 for the big event and you’ll soon be au fait with terms like ‘guizers’ and ‘squads’. There really is nothing quite like it. uphellyaa.org ESCAPE to Foula, which lies a spectacular 22km flight west of Mainland or an often hairy ferry ride away. The most remote inhabited isle in Britain is a wild and wildly beautiful place, inhabited by a tight-knit community most city dwellers can only dream of. shetland.org GO NORTH, really north! Take a short ferry ride to the isle of Unst, the UK’s most northerly inhabited isle. See…