Sommaire pour November 2019 de Wanderlust

92 The number of stalls at Pettah Floating Market near Beira Lake. Here you’ll find handmade crafts and fabrics – the perfect souvenir! 5 The number of peaks at Gombaniya mountain range. If you dare to take on all of the ‘Knuckles’, you’ll get a panoramic picture of the region’s indigenous flora and fauna. 1,970m The elevation of Lipton’s Seat, where Scottish tea baron Sir Thomas Lipton is said to have overlooked his tea empire. Arrive in the early morning for the best views of the surrounding emerald valleys and hills.…

AT A GLANCE Berlin Population 3.7 million Area 892 sq km Famous for An art scene, Christmas cheer and world-famous iconic landmarks Prague Population 1.13 million Area 496 sq km Famous for Beautiful Baroque architecture, lots of beer, and the 14th-century Charles Bridge DID YOU KNOW? You can travel from Berlin to Prague in just 4.5 hours – enjoying the views of the Elbe and Vltava rivers from a comfortable seat in a smart modern train. Stop over in Dresden to break the journey at no extra cost. VERDICT: Berlin and Prague are both captivating city-break destinations, and each has its own fascinating history and culture. Berlin’s the clear winner for festive markets, but for a picturesque winter getaway with an old town feel Prague may be your best bet……

1 Kiss a whale Though there are several locations on the peninsula to visit to witness a grey whale pushing her calf up to your boat, the best is the less busy San Ignacio Lagoon. 2 Meet the world’s largest mammal The blue whales in the waters off Loreto can reach the size of a Boeing 737. Take a day trip to spot them as well as fin, minke and humpback. 3 Get lost among the islands Around an hour from La Paz are the islands of Espirítu Santo. Venture out for a day’s excursion to see a 450-strong colony of sea lions, nesting frigatebirds, and mobula ray leaping out of the water. 4 Swim with whale sharks Just 15 minutes from La Paz waterfront by…

1 Nagasaki Still synonymous with the atomic bomb that fell here during the Second World War, the city has some poignant memorials and museums. 2 Kagoshima Friendly and warm with a palm-tree climate, the southern coastal city of Kagoshima has a rich history (it went by the name Satsuma for seven centuries) and several dozen bathhouses. 3 Takachiho Gorge Created more than 100,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, this spectacular gorge is a vision of high cliffs and tumbling waterfalls. There’s a walkable nature trail above the gorge and it’s also possible to row alongside it in a boat. 4 Beppu Steamy Beppu is one of the best-known hot spring resorts in Japan, gurgling out tens of millions of litres of natural warm water a…

JAY BURLESON Where he guides: USA Booked through: Trek America (trekamerica.com) & Grand American Adventures (grandamericanadventures.com) Pro photographer and full-time adventurer Jay has been passionate about the great outdoors ever since he first spied the Rocky Mountains as an impressionable teen. From the soundtrack to the food, Jay always delivers an epic American experience, introducing travellers to the wonders of Yosemite and Zion National Parks. TIM PENDLEBURY Where he guides: Europe Booked through: Insight Vacations (insightvacations.com) Tim may hail from Australia, but he knows Europe like the back of his hand. Having travelled from West to East over the past 20 years, he enjoys immersing guests in different cultures and ways of life, winning them over with his on-the-road commentary and stories of the regions. He always makes every traveller…

From the dark recesses of the room came a sharp snore and a loud fart. We gated our giggles behind cupped hands and waited for Gul Naz’s grandfather to slip back into a deep sleep. He rested on one of six woven-rope beds arranged around a central wood-burning stove, and from the rafters hung heavily beaded headdresses, rumpled shirts and cobwebs. Gul Naz’s mother, Jamsher, shooed away the kittens winding between her legs on the compact mud floor and passed me a cup of weak green tea. I’d met her daughter, just an hour ago while wandering around the village of Balanguru in the folds of the Hindu Kush and she’d invited me into the family home. ‘Marco Polo once described the region as ‘noisy with kingdoms’ They are Kalash,…

1 Kalasha Valleys The three valleys of Rumbur, Acholgah and Bumburet are home to the Kalash people – a pagan tribe famed for their colourful embroidered dresses and animist ceremonies. 2 Skardu A remote region in Pakistan’s far north-east with Tibetan influences. Highlights include the azure-blue Satpara Lake and mid 19th-century timber-and-mud brick Khaplu Palace. 3 Badshahi Mosque Lahore’s red-sandstone 17th-century Mughal-era mosque is filled with intricate frescoes and motifs. The tomb of national poet Allama Iqbal – founder of the Pakistan Movement – lies nearby. 4 Shandur Pass Nicknamed the ‘Roof of the World’, this plateau has the highest polo field in the world and hosts a polo festival every July that was featured in Michael Palin’s Himalayas TV series. 5 Shah Faisal Mosque The…

Tucked away in the northernmost tip of Italy, guarded by the mighty Dolomites, is the wintery world of the Three Peaks region – also known as the 3 Zinnen. In this South Tyrol (Südtirol) spot, the slopes are always perfect, the sun shines 300 days a year, and the Italian passion for good living thrives. The region is made up of the three UNESCO-listed granite peaks of the Dolomites, which stand stoically above the valleys, icy lakes and wooded mountains. This is where you’ll find 110km of immaculate slopes set across five interconnected ski mountains, with runs for all abilities. You can steel yourself for one of the steepest slopes in the Alps, or glide down child-friendly toboggan runs. There are also hiking and  snowshoe trails available nearby, if skiing…

Enter and win a photography trip to TEXAS There have now been over 2,000 entries for the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2019 competition, with more being added every day. But there’s still time to submit your best travel snaps to this year’s competition. As always, the standard of entries is extremely high, but if you have images that you think will catch our expert judges’ eyes then we want to see them. It doesn’t matter when you took the photo; as long as you’re an amateur photographer with a winning image on that memory stick, then you could be one of four lucky winners heading to Texas with your camera. Here we shine a spotlight on just two of the Texan regions you could be going to……

1 THE GREAT OUTDOORS With the Columbia River wandering on its fringes, the Willamette River cutting through the city’s heart and Mt Hood looming large, the natural outdoors is an evergreen presence in the Portland Region. The city itself contains 113km of  walking trails in Forest Park while the nearby Portland Japanese Garden is perfect for finding your zen away from the city buzz. And you don’t have to travel far from the region’s titular capital to find wilder escapes. A little north, Scappoose Bay offers the chance to birdwatch from a kayak or stand-up paddleboard on the Columbia River. More birdwatching can be enjoyed in the Tualatin Valley, where you can spot bald eagles, blue herons and red-tailed hawks. For more exhilarating winter escapes, Mt Hood’s historic Timberline…

BRIGHT IDEA “My luggage got taken by someone else once at Heathrow Airport. After that, I painted it bright yellow with red stripes. It never got taken again!” Anna Hadjicosta SWITCHING TEAMS “I lost my luggage going on holiday, so my friends lent me some clothes, which was nice of them; however they were all Newcastle United FC tops and shorts. I support Sunderland, so I wasn’t impressed. ” Mark Cameron LIGHT LOAD “Flying back from Munich this year, the airline forgot to load any of the luggage on the plane. They had to courier each individual piece to passengers over the next few days.” Lucy Evans CHEESY BAGS “I was coming back from France and put some really expensive goat’s cheese in my suitcase, which got lost. It took…

Year of the Monkey Patti Smith Bloomsbury, £12.99 Any semblance of chronological narrative is discarded in Patti Smith’s Year of the Monkey. But no matter – instead, we trespass into her inner world, wandering the USA with Patti and her trusty Polaroid, traipsing its west coast, hitching rides in the desert and helping her dying friend finish his final book in Kentucky. Here, she weaves the threads of her thoughts and past relationships together, creating a dreamy memoir on the passage of time and our changing world. The Two Week Traveller Matthew Lightfoot Amazon Print, £9 Do you have an insatiable wanderlust, but no time to indulge it? Do you have a full-time job, but daydream about the adventures you could be having? Matthew Lightfoot found himself in this position,…

• What do you need the bag for: Sure, the smart hard-sided, four-wheeled number may look nice, but what sort of trips do you go on? If it’s multi-day treks, no hard cases are allowed, so look for soft-sided options. If the bag is going to take some man-handling (for example, overlanding), then you’ll need something robust, such as a hard-wearing duffle. If hiking is your chosen activity, look for something that doubles up as hand luggage and a backpack. • One may be better than two: There’s been an increase in hybrid bags that offer you several options in one. That’s great in theory – if you know in advance you’ll need something smart-looking for hand luggage that’s also practical on the trails – but if you never use…

1 Tripoli Lebanon’s second city (Trablous in Arabic) is two hours north of Beirut. Its fine stone souks date back 600 years, with historic hammams, mosques and courtyard warehouses revealing themselves on each street. Overlooking them all are the impressive ramparts of a 12th-century crusader castle, guarding views over the old city and port. 2 Qadisha Valley This picturesque valley tucked into the northern mountains contains a host of ancient monasteries, as well as one of the oldest stands of cedars of Lebanon in the country. Nearby Bcharré is the last resting place of the poet Khalil Gibran, and has a mountainside museum dedicated to his life (gibrankhalilgibran.org). For hikers, the Qadisha Valley (pictured) makes up part of the countrywide Lebanon Mountain Trail (lebanontrail.org). 3 Tyre/Sidon In…

Before you arrive The capital city of Queensland, Brisbane once sat quietly in the shadow of its southern neighbours, Sydney and Melbourne. However in recent years, ‘Brissie’ – as locals call it – has entered the spotlight. A boom in contemporary art galleries, alfresco dining and 24-hour nightlife has transformed the capital, earning it the title of ‘Australia’s Hippest City’ by one guide book. It’s also home to Brisbane Festival, one of the country’s leading international arts festivals, which attracts around one million visitors annually. The main sights gravitate around the edges of Brisbane River, which divides the central business district from the arts and entertainment precinct of South Bank. The traipse-able European-inspired floral parklands, quaint bridges and bustling waterside eateries blend seamlessly with the quintessential ‘no worries, mate’ attitude…

Jonathan Kemeys Dispatches Zoological Society of London (ZSL) writer Jonathan arrived in ventured into Nepal’s lowland jungles to find out about gharials and the race to save them (p32). Top snow & ice tip: “After a three-day trek, I stood atop Poon Hill at dawn. The snowy peaks of Annapurna South and Dhaulagiri glowed amber in the morning sun – I’ve never felt quite so small!” Eliot McFarlane How To Looking for your next AirBnB? Keen writer, avid filmmaker and Wanderlust intern Eliot has got you covered. He’s compiled a handy guide on p149, listing all the dos and don’ts for swapping homes while abroad. Top snow & ice tip: “The Dolomites are stunning in the snow. In winter, the mountains’ wrinkled faces are lit up by low light bouncing…

You’d be forgiven for feeling a little dizzy at Sigiriya. Crumbling beneath the clouds, the UNESCO-listed fortress – aptly named Lion Rock, and you need the courage of one to climb the 1,250 steps to the apex – floats between sky and jungle, and was once home to both kings and Buddhist monks. On your ascent, you’ll pass by 1,000-year-old frescoes and mirror walls, before you finally tiptoe past the mighty paws of the lion, through the gateway that leads to the plateau, where ancient ruins and panoramic views overlooking central Sri Lanka will greet you.…

“Travel with your eyes open, be open to learning everything about the place and the people” Tell us about The Americas... I’m travelling the length of the Americas, two continents that make up a quarter of the land space of our planet. The first series covers North and Central America, starting in Alaska and travelling down to Costa Rica. Why the Americas? I was looking at a big map of the world and thinking [where] would be interesting and challenging with extremes of landscapes, people, climates and conditions? The Americas just kind of jumped out. What was the aim of the trip? I try and come home with different tales to tell people than what they’re expecting and hopefully show the reality of life being lived out there. But it’s…

They circled me menacingly. I couldn’t move a muscle without being eyed with a type of intensity that made me nervous – as though at any minute they might attack and take everything I had. “Pirates,” said my kayak guide, sensing the uneasy atmosphere and attempting to defuse it. “That’s what we call the frigatebirds – they steal food from other birds – and I dare say from us too, given half a chance.” When I’d told people I was going to drive Mexico alone, people were quick to point out that pirates – or rather bandits – would surely be lying in wait for me. With President Trump and his followers shouting about the need to build a wall to separate this country from the USA in a more…

GOLD AWARD WINNER MEAS CHANTHA SAIL THROUGH SOUTH-EAST ASIA See the very Best of Cambodia and Northern Thailand with Meas on this G Adventures tour. Cruise through Vietnamese villages on a boat tour of the Mekong Delta, before crossing the border into Cambodia, where you’ll see the ancient wonders of Angkor Wat lit up at sunrise and encounter local cultures. Meander through bustling Bangkok’s small canals, then float atop the famous River Kwai with an overnight stay in a rafthouse. Who? G Adventures (gadventures.co.uk; 020 7313 6953) When? Dates tbc How long? 15 days How much? From £1,199 (excluding international flights) SILVER AWARD WINNER NITIN DHAMI GO TRIBAL IN PAPUA NEW GUINEA Discover rich cultures, rugged mountains and birds of paradise on A Tribal Odyssey with Nitin from…

1 TRAVEL INSURANCE Most policies become null and void when you flout FCO advice, so you’ll have to take out specialist insurance. 2 ETIQUETTE People of the opposite sex shouldn’t really shake hands in greeting; just a smile and nod is sufficient. It’s poor etiquette to eat using your left hand. Wearing the traditional shalwar kameez isn’t compulsory, but it is greatly appreciated. 3 DOCUMENTS Carry multiple photocopies of your passport and visa because they’re requested (and kept) at some checkpoints. 4 THE USE OF ‘NO’ It’s polite to say, ‘Nahi, shukran’ (‘No, thanks’) at least once before accepting something from someone. 5 RAMADAN It’s rude to eat, drink or smoke in public during the holy month of Ramadan. Not only should this be observed, but it also makes finding…

ASIA See snow monkeys relaxing in Japan The simien craze for hot-tubbing at Jigokudani – a hot spring (or onsen) in the foothills of the Japanese Alps near Nagano city – is thought to have started when a plucky female macaque dipped her toes in the 40°C water back in the early 1960s. Now hundreds of so-called snow monkeys are at it. The best time to see the pink-faced primates soaking in the steaming waters is during winter when snowdrifts surround the geothermal pool. You can catch a train from Nagano to the Jigokudani trailhead, from where it’s a 45-minute hike to the monkey park. These are wild animals, free to come and go as they please. Feeding or touching the monkeys is a no-no – and don’t even think…

Kelly Reid, product manager at Exodus Travels, gives us a guide on what to do in Japan and when… Best time to visit… Japan is an all-year travel destination, but the best time to visit is during spring (cherry blossom season) or autumn when the foliage changes colour. Where to go… For the iconic bucket-list adventures, head to Tokyo, Kyoto and Hiroshima! If you want to venture further afield, the north island of Hokkaido is less-visited and full of wild beauty. Cuisine… Japan’s cuisine is not just about taste, it is a full-sensory experience. Half the fun is trying all the dishes that only Japan can offer! Why not try?… Staying at a traditional Japanese ryokan. Sleep on a futon on tatami mats, enjoy eating local dishes, and experience soaking…

Be fit for travel As the years roll on, it is common to become more sedentary and for that once slim waist to become a thing of the past. It is all too easy to overlook waning fitness and increasing girth but adventurous trips might need a bit of training or toning for maximum enjoyment [see issue 174, May 2017 for tips]. Take extra medicine Those who take regular medicines need to ensure they have plenty to last them for the entire trip with a spare packet in case luggage is lost or delayed. It is important to know what these medicines are (calling them ‘those little white tablets’ just isn’t helpful) and what they’re needed for. Understanding the action of any medicine you take will help you manage any…

Respect the places you visit. When we travel, we have to respect the local culture; for example, in the way we dress. If we’re going to temples, I prepare my group beforehand: if they want a photo with Buddhist monks, I explain how to treat them with cultural sensitivity. “Asia is so friendly – you don’t need to be afraid” A smile always helps. When people get tired, the first thing I do is smile and explain how it’s part of the adventure. When we are going to a homestay in Laos and need to travel for over nine hours from Luang Prabang, I motivate people with the benefits: how many people get this opportunity to see this? If you lose your group, don’t panic. Once, in the middle of…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/ wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the…

Remembering a visit to Minintale: “There are some places in the world I’d return in a heartbeat and Sri Lanka is one of them.” @delboy2828 Recalling Ireland: “I loved Trim. One of our favourites and we did it on a total whim.” @travelurbucket Sharing a hidden London gem: I love Postman’s Park, which has a memorial to people who died trying to save others. It is only small, but it’s fascinating to read the plaques.” Tabitha Green Remembering Marsaxlokk in Malta: “It’s a little gem of a place, especially this little fishing port” Adventures of a Bear…

MUMMY DEAREST The mummy returns! As the touring exhibition Tutankhamun: Treasures of the Golden Pharaoh hits London’s Saatchi Gallery (2 November-3 May 2020), the life of the boy king will once again be celebrated. With more than 150 pieces on display to commemorate the upcoming 100th anniversary of his tomb’s discovery, the show is sure to be one of the hottest tickets in town. Previous exhibitions have attracted record turnouts with only a third of these priceless treasures on view, but this one will feature even more fanfare: more than 60 items are travelling outside Egypt for the first – and last – time before being permanently housed at the new Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza. Proceeds from the Saatchi’s exhibition will support the new museum, which is set to…

ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM Be a friend to the elephants and visit the Elephant Transit Home. Sponsored by the Born Free Foundation, this rehab centre shelters orphaned and abandoned elephants with the aim of releasing them back into the wild. CANOE THE LAGOON Book an eco tour of Pottuvil Lagoon and sail through its lush mangroves. Kingfishers, pelicans and herons are among the birds you’ll see here, but you’ll also duck past lurking crocodiles and lizards, too. Watch your back! RIDE THE RAILS Catch the train from Ella to Nuwara Eliya and cross the colonial-era Bridge in the Sky, also known as Nine Arch Bridge. With dense jungle behind you and tea leaves being cultivated beneath, you won’t know where to look first.…

Sometimes, I wish we didn’t have to choose a winner of the Wanderlust World Guide Awards. It’s a delight, yes, but it also feels like an insurmountable challenge: every year brings thousands of testimonials by you and the guides’ colleagues, full of heartfelt praise for these incredible individuals. It’s always difficult to whittle such a stellar shortlist down to Bronze, Silver and Gold. As the awards have grown, we’ve introduced new specialist categories too, to salute guides who focus on safari, conservation, history and more. But even now, in the awards’ 14th year, the job never gets easier. I spend hours poring over those impassioned, inspirational anecdotes – often with a tear in my eye. I established the World Guide Awards after the death of Wanderlust co-founder (and my late…

Vital statistics Capital: Islamabad Population: around 215 million Language(s): English and Urdu Time: GMT +5 International dialling code: +92 Visas: UK nationals are now eligible for the new single-entry tourist e-visa (visa.nadra.gov.pk), which has cut application-waiting time from six weeks to around one. The e-visa is valid for three months and costs US$60 (£40). It requires a Letter of Invitation (LOI) from a UK or Pakistani tour operator stating that they will accept responsibility for you. Money: The Pakistani rupee (PKR) is currently around 193PKR to the UK£1. ATMs are available, but you get better rates if you bring US dollars and exchange them. When to go May-October:This is the high season and the best time to travel due to the dry, warm weather. June–September: The summer rainy season is…

Throughout the borderlands of Nepal and Kenya’s national parks, the ZSL is working alongside communities like Krishna’s to support new ways for people and wildlife to live together in harmony. We need your help to bring these projects to more people in Nepal and expand this project to Kenya. Give to ZSL by 31 December and the UK government will match every pound you donate – up to £2m – meaning your donation has never made more difference. Donate now at ZSL.org/ForPeopleForWildlife…

St Petersburg Even under a shroud of snow, the City of the Tsars is irresistibly cultural. Walk the historic centre admiring frozen canals lined by Italianate mansions, peruse Picassos in the Hermitage and catch a concert at Mariinsky Theatre. Bergen Norwegian knitwear should be top of your shopping list on a winter trip to Bergen. Wear a new purchase on the cable car ride up Ulriken for panoramic views 643m above the city. You can also take a snowshoe walk around the summit. Reykjavík Winter festivals in the Icelandic capital include the contemporary Dark Music Days. New Year’s Eve witnesses a city-wide fireworks extravaganza, and there’s always the Blue Lagoon for a warming dip.…

• Don’t: Operate outside the site. While paying the host directly may seem like cheating the system, it’s more likely they’re cheating you. Sites such as Airbnb use an escrow system to hold your money until check in. If you go off-site, there’s nothing to protect you. • Do: Use search filters. This is your chance to eliminate listings that don’t cut the mustard. Airbnb hosts are only required to provide you with bedding, towels, toilet paper and soap. To ensure yourself an iron or a smoke detector, make sure you check what’s on offer. • Do: Contact the host. It’s good to build a rapport with potential hosts as this gives you a chance to gauge what they’re like. Remember, this is the person you’re calling at 3am if…

Sovietstan Erika Fatland MacLehose, £20 Pravda Ha Ha Rory MacLean Bloomsbury, £20 It’s been 30 years since Germans sprayed booze from the top of the Berlin Wall. But after the party – the sense of hope that came with the collapse of the USSR – has come the Putin-flavoured hangover. Two eye-opening travelogues take entirely different journeys and writing approaches to explore this fallout – literally so, when it comes to Kazakhstan – with both discovering people struggling with identity and their neighbour’s lengthening shadow. “Everyone who was old enough to remember the Soviet Union longed for the good old days”Erika Fatland The early 90s saw Central Asia’s Soviet states – Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan – each become independent, only to then seemingly fall off the travel radar.…

This issue: Luggage SHERPA ADVENTURE GEAR Yatra Duffle, £70 Made in Nepal, this water-repellent bag has a padded shoulder strap and several pockets, including one perfect for storing muddy boots. A donation from every purchase helps Sherpa schoolchildren. sherpaadventuregear.co.uk MOUNTAIN WAREHOUSE Ultra Traveller 65+15L Rucksack, £200 This rucksack, made from durable, ripstop fabric (meaning it can stand some manhandling), has a padded airmesh and adjustable back, lockable zips, a rain cover and also boasts a detachable daypack. mountainwarehouse.com JACK WOLFSKIN Neuron Laptop Backpack, £140 Not only will this well-designed backpack protect your computer, it has integrated LEDs that keeps you visible after dark. The zips are anti-theft and there’s a hidden, easy-to-access pocket for your wallet. jackwolfskin.co.uk ORTLIEB Duffle 85, £155 If you’re headed on a watery adventure, keep your…

The restaurant waiter had the deepest baritone I’d ever heard. ‘Welcome!’ he boomed, ushering us inside. Menus were battered and the decor didn’t look like it had been updated for decades, but we took our seats with the promise of a good meal. My partner was a regular diner here when she lived in Beirut more than 15 years earlier. And to our delight, the staff remembered her, overjoyed she’d come back to order her favourite dish. The experience sums up Beirut – a bit worn around the edges, but keen to welcome you in with an optimistic smile, and feed you until you burst with a succession of tasty meals. I didn’t start to understand the city properly until I began to explore the place on foot. On any…

Get orientated With its historic Old Town, winding streets and Adriatic coastline, Dubrovnik is the kind of fairytale city you feel you already know – probably from the silver screen, as it’s so often featured in big productions, most notably Game of Thrones. However, the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ is more than picture-perfect. Its history is built into its bones, the very stones of the unshakeable 2km-long city walls that date back several centuries, withstanding earthquakes and armies alike. Other structures, however, such as the Sponza and Rector’s Palaces, St Blaise’s Church and the Onofrio fountain, did get hit during the 1991›2 siege of the city. Today, although repaired, you can still see exactly how each building fared from a map. Although summer is long gone, the city has all…

Population: 2.3 million Language: Primarily English Time zone: GMT+10 International dialling code: +61 Visa: Apply online for a free eVisitor visa, which allows UK passport holders to stay in Australia for up to three months. The majority of applications are processed within three days. Currency: Australian dollar (AUD) currently AUD$1.80 to the UK£. ATMs are widely available, but expect a withdrawal fee of at least A$2.50 and a daily withdrawal limit. Health issues: No major health threats, but try to avoid dehydration and sunstroke. Drink plenty of water, wear protective clothing and sunscreen, and avoid excessive sun exposure between 10am and 2pm. Guidebook: Australia (Lonely Planet, 2017) has the essentials. For laughs and to kill hours on the plane, read Bill Bryson’s Aussie travelogue Down Under: Travels in a Sunburned…