Sommaire pour June 2019 de Wanderlust

I’m sure the scourge of single-use plastics is very much on your mind, but it is easy to forget that awareness about the issue can be very low in some countries, as I have found on a couple of my recent trips. On page 92, Emma Thomson takes a look at the issue and what we can do in a positive way. And look out for a special Saving the Planet supplement with our next issue. It was lovely to meet so many of you at recent events, and to hear your questions. So, John from Croydon, here is the Peru feature I promised (p60) and for Claire and Charles, I think you’ll love the Ruahu National Park feature (p44)! I look forward to meeting many more of you at…

“There is a love of wild nature in everybody, an ancient mother-love ever showing itself whether recognised or no…” John Muir, pioneering conservationist Return of a deer friend Abruzzo NP, Central Apennines, Italy Photographer: Bruno D’Amiscis The broad-leafed forests and valleys of Abruzzo NP hide plenty of wildlife, but it’s in late autumn that one in particular makes itself known to visitors: the belling of the red deer stags echoes the wild hills, signalling the start of breeding season. It’s a welcome sound, given that these shy, nocturnal animals were only reintroduced to the region in the early 1970s. Along with the grey wolf and Apennine Chamois, who have also made a return, it’s a happy reminder that what was once lost can sometimes – not always – be recovered.…

”Taking in the many wonders of Meroë, in Sudan – pyramids, temples and tombs devoid of visitors.” Andrew Heppleston ”Enjoying Brazil’s Rio Carnival with a few thousand of our closest friends.” Bruce & Geri Haney ”Looking down on St Helena’s capital, Jamestown, from the top of Jacob’s Ladder and its 699 steps.” Scott Bennett ”Just chilling amid the frozen tundra of Iceland’s Thingvellir National Park, which spans two continents.” Carl Fryer ”Cruising the streets of Havana, Cuba, in a vintage 1955 Chevrolet proved rather good fun.” Nigel Branscombe ”Wandering the endlessly rippling desert and rolling dunes of Wahiba Sands in Oman.” @holydanoly ”Jumping for joy at the rose-pink salt lakes of Murcia, Spain – home to the largest saline lake in Europe.” @idreamliveinspire ”Getting to the top of Dead Woman’s…

The baboons were furious. High in the branches of a sausage tree, a leopard was lurking in the exact same area of the Mwagusi riverbank that they’d selected for rest, play and grooming. It’s hard to switch off and unwind when there’s an apex predator in your midst. The adult males circled the tree, shrieking and grunting with rage, while an impala grazed around the base, oblivious to the threat that waited above. Whiskers appeared, then piercing yellow eyes surveyed the scene below and found an opportunity too good to miss. Target chosen, the leopard bounded headfirst down the tree, pushing off from the trunk and flying at the impala, snaring a leg in its jaws. A frenzy followed. Berserk baboons jabbed violently at the leopard, while, in a cloud…

DURATION: 15 days ROUTE: Lima • Huaraz • Caraz • Trujillo WHY GO? The mountains yield adventures in stunning surroundings, while the coast has pre-Inca archaeology, surfing, seafood and festivals. WHEN TO GO? Dry season in the mountains is May to October; Trujillo is dry all year round. Christmas/New Year’s is a popular holiday time, even up to February in Trujillo. The aptly-named Cordillera Blanca has several of the highest mountains in South America. Climbers, hikers and bikers head for Huaraz, the main town, for the tried-and-tested routes over mountain passes and to high-altitude lakes; some are long-distance, others just day treks. Even a non-Alpinist will enjoy the beautiful scenery, little towns and journeys around the two parallel mountain ranges. Don’t miss the fortress-temple of Chavín de Huántar (built around…

Discover Utah The best thing about Utah? The wild outdoors. With five national parks and 44 sprawling State Parks, you’ll find plenty of adventures. wanderlust.co.uk/DiscoverUtah Back on the map Having been off travel radars for a variety of reasons, these countries are finally back, and ready to reward travellers with epic landscapes, vibrant culture and zero crowds. Here’s our pick of the trips... wanderlust.co.uk/BackOnTheMap Volcanic gallery From a snow-capped giant in Antarctica to a fire-spitting monster in Japan, these photos reveal the true power of the Earth. wanderlust.co.uk/VolcanoSummits Street Art Forget the so-called street art capitals, the artists in these cities and towns have far more fascinating tales to tell – and it shows in their incredible work... wanderlust.co.uk/StreetArt Georgia trip selling out Pick up the last few remaining spots…

‘By 2050, there will be more plastic than fish in the world’s oceans.’ I was sitting in a boat off the coast of Greenland when I first heard this claim, from a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and World Economic Forum, and it hit me like a sledgehammer. But life is busy and making mindful choices takes effort. Before long, I had fallen back into my old habits. Then a long-haul flight to Mauritius changed everything. I forgot something on the plane, and when I went back to retrieve it, the flight attendants were unloading all the waste from the flight. You expect it to be a lot, but I was appalled: 60 giant plastic bags bulging with plastic bottles, knives and forks, headphones, pudding pots – even those…

Capital: Havana Population: 11.5 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT›4 (Oct–Mar GMT›5) International dialling code: +53 Visas: UK nationals need a Tourist Card, valid for 30 days. Virgin Atlantic sells them to UK passport holders for £15 at Gatwick; the cheapest online is at cubavisas.com (£24). Money: Cuba has two currencies: the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC), currently around CUC1.31 to the UK£, and the Cuban Peso/Moneda Nacional (CUP), currently around 25CUP to the CUC. US dollars ($) are accepted by airport taxis at $0.87 to the CUC. Exchange sterling cash at the airport and at city exchange bureaus (CADECAs). When to go November–April: Cuba’s high (and dry) season. A sweater is needed in the evenings in December and January. Temperatures can often hit the late 20s/early 30s (ºC). May–July: May is…

Bern is a beauty. With its bijou dimensions, UNESCO-listed centre and relaxed air, it doesn’t feel like a capital city at all. It’s vibrant, yes, but also appealingly laid-back. Charm oozes from every street corner, cellar bar and fountain, while the surrounding hills hint at the wildness beyond. The Bernese Oberland is home to many of the country’s most breathtaking mountains. The immense Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau grab the headlines, but this whole region is an outdoor playground, where you can hike, bike, swim, paddle, climb, run, rail-ride, eat and be merry amid the Alps at their most magnificent. UNCOVER THE CAPITAL Bern is a brilliant introduction to Switzerland. Like the rest of the country, it has excellent public transport, though exploring on foot gets you even closer to the…

Think like a local Thailand to Laos “Make sure you take the slow boat between Chiang Khong in Northern Thailand and Luang Prabang in Laos. Ignore the speedboat option, which is unsafe due to rocks and unpredictable water levels. The public boat is so much cheaper than a tourist package, and you will get the chance to observe Mekong life. You will also make friends with other travellers, who you are likely to see on the rest of your travels.” Josh Johns Troubled waters Kanchanaburi, Thailand “Absorb the history of Kanchanaburi and walk along the train tracks of the Thai-Burma (Death) Railway, crossing the bridge over the River Kwai that was built by Allied POWs during the Second World War.” Michelle Coogan Going with the flow Vietnam “We took a…

It shocks them to learn that Abu Simbel was moved stone by stone My mother is illiterate. She can’t read or write. But ever since I was a child in Egypt, she told me that language is the key to learning about other cultures. She made me study, and every day she’d say: “May god put you to use for other people.” That has always been her prayer for me. Then, when I was old enough to go on school trips and saw guides taking guests around for the first time, and what they did for them, I knew I’d found my calling. Helping people is part of my nature. Even if it’s simple things, like providing guests with coins to pay the bathroom attendant for toilet paper, I like…

What is ‘forest bathing’? It might sound New Age, but it’s the latest travel trend – new forest-bathing experiences keep popping up across Britain’s wooded areas. It’s founded on the Japanese nature therapy, shinrin-yoku. While that’s not a literal translation – there’s no soaking yourself in water – it is about immersing yourself in nature’s healing powers. So it’s just a fancy walk? Except there’s no specific destination in mind. Here, you’re fostering a deeper relationship with the space around you – keep things slow and relaxed. Be extra mindful of your surroundings and notice exactly what is around you – meditate to gentle birdsong, smell fresh pine after rainfall, and touch old oaks. How does it work? Japanese researchers developed the therapy in the 1980s, discovering that a two-hour…

Get orientated All roads lead to Rome – and in Pula that’s no exception. Perched on the edge of the Adriatic, Istria’s biggest city channels an old-world glamour dating all the way back to the first century AD. International filmmakers and critics only add to this ambience when they descend on the city’s atmospheric amphitheatre en masse for Croatia’s oldest annual film festival (13›21 July). A number of museums cover Pula’s history – it was once a regional centre of Roman rule and governed by Italy up to the Second World War – but it’s best to experience it for yourself. By meandering those cobbled streets you not only ogle its Roman heritage but also its extensive Medieval and Renaissance architecture. If you time your visit to coincide with the…

Star letter A Caribbean secret If you’re thinking of a visit to the Caribbean, try Saba (aka ‘The Unspoilt Queen’), a small Dutch island just ten minute’s flight from St Maarten. Home to the world’s shortest runway (400m), which is carved into the edge of the island – it’s like landing on an aircraft carrier – just one road snakes its four villages of white, green and red wooden buildings. The interior has great hiking, though, and we saw lizards, a snake, hermit crabs and not a single human, which isn’t surprising given the 13 sq km island has just 1,900 inhabitants. Best of all, the 1,064-step ascent of Mount Scenery took us up to the highest point in the Netherlands. Stuart Pester, via email Baalbek from the brink Your…

GET INTO POLE POSITION Bring your polar plans to life at Wanderlust’s Polar reader event, held at London’s Royal Geographical Society in June. Travel author Sara Wheeler, Antarctica’s first female writer-in-residence, is just one of the experts on stage, sharing her insights and the stories behind her polar-inspired books. An entire panel of specialists, chaired by Wanderlust editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes, will also be sharing their tips for planning the perfect polar trip, before answering your burning questions. Book at wanderlust.co.uk/PolarEvent; RGS, London. 20 June, 6.30pm. £10. See p87 for more information. GET BACK IN THE SADDLE It’s all fun and games for cyclists this month. Not only is it World Bicycle Day (3 June) but a new coastal bike trail is launching in Sweden to mark the occasion. Skane’s new…

As chef Ben Tish writes in his latest cookbook, Moorish, “It would be hard to find a Spanish dish with more recorded history than the gazpacho.” This quintessential chilled Andalucían soup has Roman and Moorish influences, giving visitors to Southern Spain a potted history of Europe in a bowl. But it wasn’t always the cold tomato soup of today. Gazpacho was already the food of the people long before the red fruit arrived in Spain in the 16th century. Before then, Andalucía’s farm labourers were fed with rations of oil and bread, pounding them into a thin gruel with whatever else was to hand, just as the Romans had. This simple base (oil, bread, garlic) spawned a host of similar dishes. Explore the almond-scattered hills of Málaga and you’ll taste…

Liberian journalist Carielle Doe fondly recalls childhood memories of 1980s beach holidays in her homeland. “When I was little, I’d go to Hotel Africa at the weekend. People of means would lounge at the pool, and I remember playing in the water,” she told me. Nowadays, the five-star Hotel Africa resort, built in 1979, is a wreck. It sustained damage by rebel fighters during the First Liberian Civil War (1989–1996) and was later looted. I entered the lobby’s carcass to find a cantilevered staircase dangling like a shattered spinal-cord while broken tiles and glass crunched underfoot. Not a window or door remained. Yet in the wreckage lay hope. From Hotel Africa’s debris-strewn rooftop, I looked out to the coastline and traced one of the finest beaches I have ever seen.…

The facts are stark. From 2009 to 2015, Tanzania’s elephant population fell from 109,000 to an estimated 50,000 as a result of poaching. The south in particular was hit hard, says Dr Trevor Jones of the South Tanzanian Elephant Program (STEP), as one of East Africa’s largest populations lost over 50% of its elephants. The situation is worse for its lions. Some 200,000 once roamed Africa; now there’s a little over 24,000, with 10% of those left in the wild found in Ruaha NP. But even here it’s not been plain sailing. Prior to 2012, conflict with villagers led to 60 lions being killed every year by the Barabaig people. While hard work on the ground and global goodwill to crack down on the ivory trade is helping deter elephant…

The road wound its way up into the Yauyos mountains from the green Cañete river valley through rocks, sand and shale the colour of ash. Grey-green cacti guarded the slopes under a cloudless sky, while the gorges above revealed irregular pockets of cultivation alongside acres of centuries-old terracing. We arrived at Refugio Viñak after a full-day’s drive from Lima, gasping for breath in the high altitude. A coca tea, a soak in a hot tub under the stars and a comfy chair in front of the open fire in the lounge all eased the soroche (mountain sickness). Above the lodge is Santiago de Viñak, all zinc roofs and faded whitewash, punctuated by the occasional sky-blue or turquoise wall. We explored tracks that climbed up above the tree line, passing cattle…

DURATION: 10 days (plus 4-5 days for an Amazon extension) ROUTE: Lima • Chiclayo • Chachapoyas • Celendín • Cajamarca • Chachapoyas • Tarapoto • Iquitos • Lima WHY GO? There is a wealth of pre-Inca sites in the coastal desert and the Chachapoyas area of the Andes, plus forests, waterfalls, birdwatching, horse riding and trips on the Amazon. WHEN TO GO? All year on the coast. Chachapoyas’ dry season is May to September (roads may be difficult in rainy season). The Amazon is typically drier from April to October. The huge adobe pyramids around Ciclayo (in the Lambayeque department, 260km north of Trujillo) contain noble tombs, such as Sipán, the artefacts from which are now mostly displayed in fine modern museums. A highlight, though, are the Sicán ruins in…

Our encounter only lasted ten minutes but I was instantly in love. Our eyes met, a lingering look that belied the mere seconds it took, then, in an instant, she reached for my hand and held it close to her chest. There we floated, amid the cool water, locked in a moment, a close embrace. Then, minutes later she was gone, taking with her a little piece of my heart. That was my first introduction to Florida’s manatees – the so-called sea cows – who, every winter, leave the food-rich but decreasing temperatures of the Atlantic Ocean to warm up amid the natural warm springs of Crystal River. But it wouldn’t be my last encounter. First spied by the explorer Christopher Columbus in 1493, these gentle giants were originally mistaken…

South-East Asia is one of the world’s top adventure destinations, boasting everything from untapped jungle to cathedral-like caverns. It’s a place where orangutans swing among the canopies and exotic wildlife, from elephants to ‘dragons’, can be seen in close proximity. In the water, teeming reefs and snorkelling opportunities are plentiful. Trekking, cycling, climbing, diving, surfing, wildlife watching, wellness – it’s all here in an action-packed region where the activities won’t break the budget. 1 Explore the Gardens by the Bay, Singapore A game changer for gardens all over the world, this billion-dollar botanical wonder is made up of temperature-controlled biodomes that showcase environments from the Mediterranean to montane rainforest. The ‘Supertrees’ (pictured) are the iconic image of this project, and twinkle every night at 7.45pm and 8.45pm in a dazzling…

Georgia has always intrigued me – I’ve long dreamed of exploring the little-visited monasteries, the remote villages, the UNESCO sites and pristine mountain passes. And then there’s the wine, of course, considered some of Europe’s best. So come and join me in Georgia to experience this beautiful country together. Lyn Hughes There are few places left in Europe that can be truly labelled ‘undiscovered’ but Georgia remains one of them. Set at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, lying across a key section of the fabled Silk Road route, it is a fascinating country – both culturally and visually. As Mike Gerrard wrote in Wanderlust, ‘If I had to come up with a description for Georgia, geographically as well as culturally, it would be Middle Eastern Europe’. This 11-day small-group…

As travellers, we seem to be drawn to water, from great lakes and enormous oceans to rapid rivers and thundering falls. Even wet weather has its allure; trekking in snowy landscapes, climbing mist-cloaked slopes or exploring in humid jungles. But when it comes to finding waterproof gear that can keep up with you, the options are surprisingly limited. Traditional backpacks don’t provide enough protection from the elements, putting clothes and cameras at risk, but fully waterproof packs are typically cumbersome and make accessing your kit difficult. That is why Ortlieb designed the world’s first waterproof pack that can be opened easily like a travel bag: the Ortlieb Atrack 35L backpack. Now Ortlieb is offering you the chance to win two of these packs, so you can stride with confidence into…

The highlight: Driving through ever-changing scenery is a photographer’s dream – especially the southern beaches in the early morning light. A close second was Friday’s goat market in Nizwa. Must see: Sub-tropical Salalah is bounded by the Dhofar Mountains and the Arabian Sea, and has a lively centre, banana plantations, palm-fringed beach and one of Oman’s best markets. But don’t fly there – instead, drive the 1,500km coastal route from Muscat, camping at oases and on beaches. The scenery is stunning and the roads, cut through the mountains, are incredible feats of engineering. Top tip: Stop and chat to locals when they offer coffee and dates. They are friendly and proud of their country, and you learn all sorts. Family groups of women also often picnic together in parks, and…

STEPPING OFF THE TRAIN AT NIAGARA FALLS Q I’m travelling from Toronto to New York and thought about taking the train rather than fly. Can I easily stop off at Niagara Falls en route? And how is the border dealt with? David Juler, via email A Amtrak’s Maple Leaf train travels between Toronto and New York City, with stops on both sides of the Canada/US border. To experience the Niagara Falls you need to stop off at the towns of Ontario or New York State. Most people prefer the Canadian side, where the Horseshoe Falls have a much longer, sweeping crest. In the past, visitors have crossed on a high wire or gone over the rim in a barrel, but you can enjoy safer thrills on a Maid of the…

For every 1,000 passengers, some 5.7 bags were ‘mishandled’ in 2017 (SITA). Given that extended across 4.3 billion travellers last year, that’s a lot of misplaced luggage. So, as a passenger, what can you do? Often as passengers we are on the back foot, but knowing when you’re at risk helps. Some 48% of lost bags are misplaced on connecting flights, particularly when carrying multiple bags or on short layovers. This is exacerbated in small airports where infrastructure may be more basic, or on routes with high footfall. You can help yourself as well. Avoiding late check-ins is proven to lower the risk of mishandled bags, while luggage tags ripping off in transit is another cause, which is why using smart tags is wise. These have GPS trackers or codes…

Before you arrive Johannesburg (aka Joburg) may lack Cape Town’s wild setting but this busy hub is more than just an entry point. It’s an energetic city developing at pace, with an artsy vibe and a bustling food scene. Joburg’s rich present is built on a torrid past. Gold was discovered here in 1886, leading to an influx from across Africa and beyond. The city grew unchecked until the 1930s, when forced removals pushed much of the local black population into townships on the city’s outskirts, such as Soweto (aka South-Western Townships). In 1948, apartheid was officially implemented in South Africa and it would prove to be a long road to the country’s first democratic elections in 1994, when former Joburg resident (and inmate) Nelson Mandela was elected. Much has…

The Greeks christened it Kallisté (the most beautiful); the French call it L’ile de Beauté (the island of beauty) – even the great French painter Henri Matisse was so dazzled by Corsica’s sunlight and colour that it forever infused his work. Olive groves and orange trees scatter the island and wild maquis cloaks the sloping hills, leaving an indelible impression on all who visit. But Corsica is more than just its looks. Sandwiched between Italy and France, this French island has more history than most nations. French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte was born in capital Ajaccio – where you can still visit his old home – while Horatio Nelson famously lost an eye in a siege of Corsica in 1794. A good place to tap into the island’s long history is…

There is a saying in Japanese: ‘Never say kekko [beautiful] until you’ve seen Nikko.’ This rural region of Japan, just two hours north of Tokyo, looks as if it’s been painted from an artist’s imagination. Waterfalls cascade down enormous rock faces, aquamarine lakes reflect the towering mountains like mirrors, and ornate shrines adorned with intricate gold carvings stand stoically among the cedar trees. Most people visit Nikko for its history. The area has a long tradition of mountain worship, with the region’s many UNESCOlisted shrines and temples arranged neatly on the mountain slopes – the first constructed back in the 8th century. They were described as “the most wonderful work of their kind in Japan,” by Victorian explorer Isabella Bird, who was one of the first outsiders to discover Nikko…

Capital: Dodoma Population: 59.9 million Language: Swahili and English are official languages, with many others spoken across the country. Time: GMT+3 International dialling code: +255 Money: Tanzanian shilling (TZS), currently TZS2,975 to the UK£. US dollars ($) are often used. There are no ATMs in Ruaha NP, but most lodges and camps accept bank cards. Cash is useful, including for park entrance fees and tips. When to go November–May: It can get hot and humid in Ruaha NP, but the land is at its greenest and most beautiful from January to June. Migratory birds also visit between December and April, making this the peak time for birding. If you don’t mind the heat, you can take advantage of some good deals and discounts at this time of year, but be…

DURATION: 15 days (plus six days if you visit Cusco) ROUTE: Lima • Paracas • Nazca • Arequipa • Lake Titicaca • Juliaca or Cusco WHY GO? See the mysteries of the Nazca Lines, Andean condors in flight and sample island life on Lake Titicaca. WHEN TO GO? All year. The coast is cool and cloudy from May to December, and warm the rest of the time. Arequipa is sunny most days, but Colca is rainy from January to April and dry and cool the rest of the year. Lake Titicaca is usually hot and sunny in the day, with occasional rain (Nov–Apr), but nights are cold – and bitterly so between June and August. South of Lima, Paracas is a good base for visiting the seabirds and mammals of…

DURATION: 2-7 days ROUTE: Lima WHY GO? In the colonial city centre and surrounding modern suburbs are scattered Pre-Inca monuments, the country’s most extensive museums and its best cooking. WHEN TO GO? All year. It’s typically misty and cool from May to November, and sunny and hot the rest of the time. The historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has a fine central square (Plaza de Armas) and splendid colonial buildings, many with elaborate wooden balconies. Close by is the busy Barrio Chino (Chinese quarter) and Parque de la Reserva with its fountains and light displays. South of the centre, San Isidro and Miraflores, where most visitors stay, boast many of the restaurants on which Lima’s reputation as a gastronomic capital of South America was founded. One, Huaca Pucllana…

Vital statistics State capital: Tallahassee Population: 21.6 million Languages: English; Spanish is also widely spoken Time: GMT-4 (Nov–Mar GMT-5) International dialling code: +1 Visa: Not required by UK nationals. You will need to obtain an ESTA before arrival; these cost $14 (£11) and are valid for two years. Apply online at the official site at esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta Money: US dollar ($), currently around $1.33 to the UK£. ATMs are plentiful, credit cards are widely accepted and tipping is expected. When to go November–April: Right in the middle of these months is the prime time for spotting manatees in large numbers; some linger year round but, generally, the mass congregations (around 2,000 manatees) happen in winter – as long as it’s been cold enough. May, June & October: Shoulder seasons are good…

“So, Claire, you fell off twice during this trip. And your speed at the time? Precisely zero kph,” my Cuban guide teased. I didn’t recall ever claiming to be a biking ninja but, for the record, I hadn’t exactly crashed, either; I’d simply toppled off the seat, inelegantly, while setting off. Bikes, balance and I have not always been the best of friends, but cyclists have long since adopted Cuba. I’d watched them chug up and down pine-scented hills and race past quivering sugar cane for years, looking on with a mix of admiration and horror. The Caribbean island has potholes big enough to wind a tractor, and there’s barely a slip of shade on the 186,554km of tarmac that spiders this crocodile-shaped isle. Yet seeing Cuba from a bike…

Wild camping has many lures. There’s a sense of freedom you can’t experience any other way – just you in the wilderness, alone with the great outdoors. You can feel the warmth of first light, smell the dew on the grass and taste the fresh air after a night tucked up in your tent. It’s invigorating. And yet there’s no denying it: lugging around camping gear can be a challenge – especially if you are out hiking. If you opt for comfort in the tent, it often means settling for bukier, heavier kit, which isn’t practical to carry. That is why Exped is giving away two of their lightweight SynMat sleeping mats, plus two AirPillows – desgined to help you have a good night’s sleep in the wild. Innovative technology…

Switzerland’s got the looks. It’s got the drama. It’s got the ease. It’s got the cheese. This country is Alpine perfection; a class act, where the many delights – from glittering lakes and soaring mountains to cosmopolitan cities and delicious dishes – are effortless to experience thanks to a vast number of hiking and biking trails, a diverse range of activities and matchless transportation. Indeed, with well over 5,000km of tracks, including gravity-defying cogwheels and funiculars, Switzerland has one of the densest rail networks in Europe. No matter where you want to go – even to the top of some of the highest peaks – there’s usually a train that can take you there. And where the trains can’t quite reach, there are cablecars, ferries, paddle steamers and charming yellow…

Lucerne is the sort of city to make others weep. With a handsome medieval heart and an enchanting lake, set within a hug of mighty mountains, it seems to have all the luck. It also has a modern and artistic edge – as evidenced by its avant-garde Culture and Convention Centre and hip Bruch neighbourhood. Lucerne is a place in which to wander at leisure, browsing the markets, museums, boutiques and bridges, before making a break for the spiky peaks and hiking trails, valley-tucked villages, historic railways, lakeside lidos and cosy inns that lie within easy reach. STROLL THE CITY The city of Lucerne is (quite literally) pretty as a picture. Joseph Mallord William Turner, the great English Romantic painter, was bewitched by Switzerland, and visited the country – and…

By 1969, England had its second National Trail: a 177km clifftop roller coaster fringing the North Yorkshire coast up from Filey before arcing inland to Helmsley. Known as the Cleveland Way, it is wreathed in stately cliffs and gothic ruins, but for those after a taste, the 35km stretch from Scarborough to Whitby is the trail in microcosm. This shorter walk can be done in two days and is just as striking, yet as I gazed from Scarborough’s headland, the long slivers of shore whittling into the sea, it wasn’t just the views that caught my eye but the wild stories behind them. Further along, the trail wound to Ravenscar, the seaside town that wasn’t. This ghostly Victorian boondoggle faltered when its investors asked: “Where’s the beach?” It was never…

Baalbek’s temple complex has long been hidden in plain sight. For years it languished on many countries’ ‘no travel’ lists due to instability in the area; it meant that few made the two-hour drive from Beirut to its colossal temples. Then, in late 2018, the FCO relaxed its stance, and now the chance to explore some of the best-preserved Roman architecture outside Italy – and one of the ancient world’s great mysteries – is back on itineraries. Baalbek was a Phoenician city long before the Greeks (334 BC) or Romans (64 BC) arrived. The latter built over the old foundations to raise huge temples (Jupiter, Bacchus, Venus) with Corinthian columns that rose high into the heavens. Built atop giant monoliths – some weighing 800 tonnes – how these were cut…