Sommaire pour April 1, 2015 de Wallpaper

SIMON FUJIWARA Artist Since winning the Frieze Foundation Cartier Award in 2010, Simon Fujiwara’s installation-driven works have made him a rising star in the art world. He regularly blurs the line between autobiographical fact and fiction to keep his audiences guessing. Born in London, and now based between Berlin and Mexico City, Fujiwara’s mix of cultural backgrounds is reflected in the recipe for fried oyster tacos that he shares on page 274. STEFAN RUIZ Photographer Acclaimed Brooklyn-based photographer Stefan Ruiz captured his impressions of visiting Kamakura, Japan (page 260). Ruiz says, ‘Kamakura is a laidback beach town with a lot of temples and a kind of young hippie element that reminded me of the northern California beach town that I grew up in. Of all the temples and shrines, the…

PROOF OF THE PUDDING When Coralie Marabelle won the Prix du Public at the 2014 Hyères Festival of Fashion, the 28-year-old Parisian designer – who had previously worked for Hermès, Maison Martin Margiela and Alexander McQueen – was inundated with job offers. She plumped for the role of artistic director of Duvelleroy, France’s only haute couture fan maker, established in 1827 and currently undergoing a revamp under the discerning eyes of Eloïse Gilles and Raphaelle de Panafieu. ‘The fan is a very feminine fashion accessory, but also highly practical,’ says Marabelle. ‘It’s easy to carry in a handbag, then bring out for instant cool.’ Mirabelle’s first designs for the company are just launching. She has worked on both the couture line and the more accessible designer line, and she is…

Raf Simons and Kvadrat have renewed their creative vows with a second collaboration that matches the Belgian fashion designer’s facility with colour and texture to the Danish company’s textile smarts. Making their debut in designs presented on the catwalk at Simons’ A/W15 show in Paris in January, ‘Noise’, ‘Masai’ and ‘Sirocco’ are the latest upholstery fabrics added to the Kvadrat/Raf Simons collection, bringing the grand total to 14. The three textiles will also feature in a range of cushions and throws. The new fabrics are an investigation of the potential of twill, a diagonal woven textile that allows greater freedom of colour experimentation through intersected patterns. For the first time, Kvadrat has adopted this method in its fabrics, continuing to make this alliance a unique and striking meeting of minds.…

In bed with Picasso THE SERRAS, BARCELONA Located in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, with views of the swish new Marina Port Vell, The Serras neatly sums up the city’s breezy attitude. Housed in a 19th-century building (the site of Pablo Picasso’s first studio in 1896), the hotel boasts a tapas restaurant headed up by Catalan chef Marc Gascons, as well as a rooftop terrace that attracts both guests and locals, thanks to its slick lounge area and infinity pool. Eva Martinez’s interior design mixes linen fabrics, rustic iron and wood to create a light and airy atmosphere, while the 28 monochrome rooms and suites all come with oversized headboards, panelled walls, ash wood flooring and graphic Modernista tiles. Ella Marshall 9 Passeig de Colom, tel: 34.933 151 528, hoteltheserrasbarcelona.com. Rates: from €128…

This project actually came about because of Wallpaper*,’ notes Australian-born, London-based architect Russell Jones, describing his client as ‘very thorough’. Having bought the land, the client drew up a list of a dozen architects from around the world, including Jones, after he’d seen his brick apartment building in Notting Hill, west London, in our March 2006 issue. ‘He liked the fact that I was very conscious of the use of natural materials.’ The site turned out to be a prime residential plot a few miles outside Eindhoven, set in a heavily forested, sandy landscape complete with maritime pines and large patches of white sand that locals use for sunbathing in the summer. The land was one of a tranche of residential plots owned by Dutch electronics giant Philips and sold…

A rather handsome new shop dedicated to the fine art of letter writing opened recently in Zurich’s old-town banking quarter. Hieronymus carries an extensive range of fine paper, stationery designs, gift boxes, wrapping paper and leather goods such as wallets and notebooks. All of it is designed in house, all of it handmade to the highest level of quality by selected craftsmen in Switzerland, Germany and Italy, and all of it highly desirable. It seems strange to invest so much time, energy and Swiss currency in a stationery venture just when the rest of the world seems committed to a high-speed life of paperless digitalis, but this is precisely why it is the perfect moment to do so, believes owner Fabian Hotz. His father Victor founded an art book publisher…

During the summer of 2013, Michael Hermann, the licensing director for the Andy Warhol Foundation, was looking for a partner to produce a new wallpaper collection. He couldn’t find anyone suitable. Warhol himself had had no such problems five decades earlier. Ivan Karp, his dealer at New York’s Leo Castelli Gallery, had suggested he paint some cows or something pastoral. Warhol came back instead with screen-printed explosions of pink on yellow, with which he papered the whole Castelli space in spring 1966. Over the next two decades, Warhol published other rolls bearing his images of Mao, the Washington Monument, fish and, of course, himself, while the Cow paper appeared in various colours for installations at four other venues – including his 1968 retrospective at Stockholm’s Moderna Musset, whose facade got…

Even first-time visitors to Japan quickly discover that, contrary to the postcards of kimono-robed Shinto priests or carefully codified temple gardens, much of the country in reality is rather messy. Its cities are a big confusion of urban grieve, pockmarked with fake plastic fascias and ceramic tiles in every colour imaginable, failing miserably to imitate the common brick they were supposed to replace. You find big office towers constructed around or above ancient temples, and for all the collective creativity no one ever seems to stop and consider if this is right. The countryside is not much better: just when you think you might have found an unspoiled rural vista you spot a bridge, dam or some high-voltage power lines. All the same, in the ordered chaos that is modern…

The ceramic used in the horology industry is not the same stuff that is used to make bathroom tiles and dinner plates. Watches use high-tech, synthetic ceramic that contains materials including aluminium, silicon carbide, yttrium and zirconium. Moulded, sanded, polished and laser-cut to lightweight, deeply hued perfection, it is not only sleek-looking but water-resistant, hypoallergenic and unaffected by temperature. It won’t tarnish, and the salt in perspiration won’t alter its integrity. Better still, it’s super strong. Drop a ceramic watch and its microscopic components expand upon impact, helping prevent shattering. In a strength test using the industry-standard Vickers hardness scale, the ceramic used in top-quality watches scored twice as highly as steel. Ceramic watches aren’t new. In 1986 Rado created a scratch-resistant finish on its bold timepieces. But ceramic remained…

The various métiers that make up Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking business are now all under one roof at a new 4,000 sq m facility, La Fabrique du Temps workshop in Meyrin, Geneva. Wallpaper* visited and was impressed by the airy, naturally lit ateliers and calm integration of traditional, artisanal techniques with state-of-the-art engineering equipment. But we were most charmed by this gorgeously crafted tool kit, presented in a distinctive, Louis Vuitton attaché case. ‘At Louis Vuitton,’ reflects chairman and CEO Michael Burke, ‘we like to say we make time.’…

Gin is experiencing a steady revival globally, with new herb-infused creations appearing from Argentina to Australia. The Dutch, arguably the originators of the spirit, are fully embracing the trend with dedicated bars opening across the country to serve G&Ts with a twist and interesting food pairings. Rotterdam’s Ballroom (pictured), fitted out by young design office Instability We Trust with a blend of prismatic patterns, mirrored cubes and taxidermies pink flamingos, offers a staggering 52 types of gin at the bar and pairs its G&Ts with meatballs. The bar menu offers small ‘ball plates’ including shrimp balls with pimento dip, smoked pork balls with barbecue sauce, and the signature ‘balls and bread’ (pictured right, served with 6 O’clock gin and tonic water). Mains include Thai cod balls with udon noodles in…

First the iPod click wheel ushered in the pocket library, then Spottily and its ilk promised to stream us anything, anytime. Throughout this rush to convenience, audiophiles complained quietly that technology was doing sound quality a massive disservice, as algorithmically crunched MP3s shed the complexities of master recordings. This year sees a new wave of tech aimed at reclaiming those missing bytes. First up is Neil Young’s Pono, kickstarted into existence by the legendary songwriter last year to restore ‘soul’ lost to compression. It’s joined by Astell & Kern’s chunky metal AK100II and Sony’s new ZX2 Walkman. High fidelity no longer plays second fiddle to portability. ponomusic.force.com; astellnkern.com; sony.co.uk GENERAL ASSEMBLY For those weary words ‘concept store’, the general store revival that’s currently afoot in North America is presenting itself…

Few things can bring on dismissive eye-rolling in a sophisticated consumer like a luxury-goods giant talking about social responsibility and sustainable production. Inevitably, suspicions of ‘green washing’ and token gestures are quick to surface. Yet something of substance does seem to be happening. At one end of the spectrum, luxury powerhouses such as the Kering group, LVMH, Burberry and Hermès are beginning to integrate sustainability strategies into the mechanics of their businesses; and at the other, a clutch of innovative brands is emerging that has successfully fused ethical values with smart design. As our demands for transparency increase, sustainability – what used to be seen as a dry, technical issue involving complex studies of biodiversity and supply chains – is even becoming sexy. The results can be seen in Gucci’s…

Glory days THE KNICKERBOCKER, NEW YORK The energy of New York’s Times Square might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but the plush calmness within The Knickerbockers belies the chaos that awaits outside. For that, plaudits go to local form Gabellini Sheppard, whose clean and precise interiors act as a restorative contrast to the hotel’s theatrical beaux-arts architecture. Built in 1906 by American businessman John Jacob Astor IV, the 16-storey hotel was a hot spot for the city’s elite, hosting legendary shindigs for the likes of business magnate John D Rockefeller, Italian tenor Enrico Caruso and author F Scott Fitzgerald. The Knickerbockers has now been restored to its former glory, with contemporary additions including the St Cloud rooftop bar, a restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Charlie Palmer and a cosy lobby…

The city of Ballarat, about 100km from Melbourne, first gained attention in the Victorian gold rush days. More than a century later, signs of the past are still evident in its historical streetscapes, but are now entwined with the present. The recent addition of an angular house designed by Melbourne-based Inarc Architects respects this combination of then and now. For Inarc architect and director Reno Rizzo, who worked closely with the practice’s co-director, interior designer Christopher Hansson, finding the right materials for the house was just as challenging as providing the right form. ‘We were presented with a relatively modest site [500 sq m], but we also had to work within strict heritage controls,’ says Rizzo, referring to the leafy street’s rich legacy of housing styles that range from Edwardian…

Switch craft Enchanting finishes for your tech fittings In the quest for a more personalized domestic space, manufacturers are incorporating new materials into their tech accessories and fittings, but losing none of the fine details of the original. Hi-tech manufacturer Siedle dresses its classic Scope phones and video panels in luxurious leathers in hues ranging from bright blue to tan, and in woods such as sleek wedge and mahogany. Its products form a strong contrast between new home technology and handcrafted, quality materials and its Manufacture line won the Interior Innovation Award at this year’s IMM Cologne furniture fair. Similarly, switch manufacturer Berker’s minimal fittings now come in a variety of materials ranging from slate and concrete right through to wood and leather. Its classic ‘R.1’ square for switches and…

Born in London to a British mother and Japanese father, Simon Fujiwara has consistently used autobiographical truths to hash out issues of identity, sexuality and politics in his immersive installations. Now based between Berlin and Mexico City, the artist has chosen a recipe for deep-fried oyster tacos that brings together the best of two worlds. Like his work, this hearty dish is a heady mix of cultural references and ambiguous origins. ‘I generally don’t like fusion food, especially involving Japanese cuisine, but the purity of Japanese food is itself a myth. Over the centuries it has been influenced by foreign foods,’ explains Fujiwara, who also holds great admiration for Mexico’s diverse gastronomy. Enjoy while hot. For Fujiwara’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com or download the iPad edition at Wallpaper.com/iPad…

The Apple Watch is set to launch this spring: heralded and discussed like no product in history, and with Apple promising it will do for the smart watch market what it did for the smartphone market. Some estimates sugest Apple could sell 30 million watches in a year, netting the company $10-15bn, and making it the largest watch company in the world by revenue. No one in the Swiss watch industry, though, sees the launch of the Apple Watch as the same kind of existential threat as the ‘Quartz Crisis’, in which the Swiss watch industry was brought to its knees by the introduction of cheap quartz watches in the 1970s. Indeed, the Swiss industry’s recovery and transformation since then make it less susceptible to the challenge from the Apple…

A dinner at Noma might be rounded off with a potato mousse and plums. Maybe that doesn’t sound so wild for Noma, but what about a celery sorbet at New York’s Del Posto or a strawberry fennel chef on with black garlic ice cream at San Francisco’s Central Kitchen? Sugar being the dietary poison du jour, chefs have become increasingly inventive in seeking alternatives. ‘During the war, beetroot replaced sugar in chocolate cake,’ says Andrew Dargue, of Vanilla Black in London, who is currently wowing the crowds with his roasted white chocolate and cap mushroom custard with caramelized rice. ‘Now chefs are more likely to do it to entertain, inspired in part by the mood for healthier food on plates,’ he adds.…

Homemade cucumber masks are thankfully a thing of the past. Increasingly, design graduates and start-ups are taking on the future of DIY beauty. Here are four brands that are transforming homemade cosmetics. THE ORGANIC OIL CO Swedish couple Josef n Kvist and Daniel Carlsson set up The Organic Oil Co in 2013, offering carefully sourced, organic oils, waxes and hydrosols for home use. A new retail space, in Saltimporten, Malmö, offers a place to herborise among the apothecary-style bottles. organicmakers.se SILK + HONEY London-based Sharonda Flynn’s Silk + Honey offers beauty kits, designed by Imagist, with the tools, ingredients and manuals to create all-natural luxury skincare, hair and beauty products at home. silkandhoney.co.uk TEARDROP ‘Phytocosmetic lab’ Teardrop lets the user extract beneficial qualities of plants, herbs and flowers in natural…

On the occasion of its 20th anniversary, the German furniture manufacturer E15 is announcing a new collaboration with the British architect David Chipperfeld. The result of this union is a solid-wood family comprising the ‘Fayland’ table, the ‘Fawley’ bench and the ‘Langley’ stool. Chipperfeld originally designed the table to go with his Fayland House project – a large country property in the UK’s rolling Chiltern landscape, which he completed in 2013. He liked the design of his farmhouse table so much that he made another for his own apartment in Berlin’s Mitte – also completed around the same time. Small wonder that Chipperfeld likes to design the main tables to go with his houses – they are the heart of the home, the key link between occupant and architecture, the…

No one outside my circle has seen this before and certainly no journalist,’ says Vladislav Doronin as his black Bentley Flying Spur pulls through the gates of his new home in Barvikha, Moscow’s Beverly Hills. ‘It’s interesting, don’t you think?’ Calling his $160m Zaha Hadid-designed space rocket in the woods ‘interesting’ is like saying the Mona Lisa is mildly diverting. The 35m-high structure is perhaps the most striking new private home in world. It’s certainly one of the most ambitious. ‘People told me it couldn’t be built,’ he says. ‘The builders said it couldn’t be built. At times, I thought it couldn’t be built. But Zaha, who is a strong woman, very intelligent, very smart – a genius, in fact – insisted.’ The 30,000 sq ft structure is more of…

With 1,000 apartments and a height of 134m, the Uni-Center by architect Werner Ingendaay in southwest Cologne is one of Europe’s largest residential buildings. A glass penthouse crowns each of the three wings of the 1973 building’s Y-shaped footprint, and two of these – offering a breathtaking view of the entire city – belong to Achim Lippoth. One, on the 41st floor, is the fashion photographer and film director’s home. The other, on the 29th floor, has been transformed into his studio with the help of local architects BeL. ‘I am a very visual person,’ says Lippoth, who is also the founder and editor of award-winning magazine Kid’s Wear, currently celebrating its 20th anniversary. ‘The visual aesthetics that characterise my work are naturally reflected in the way I live.’ The…

Albondigas (Meatballs) Serves 4-6 1 slice white bread, crust removed (approx 80g) 500g minced beef or pork 1 egg, beaten ½ onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tbs chopped fresh parsley salt and pepper 2 tbs flour 3 tbs olive oil, for frying Tear the bread into chunks and soak in cold water for a few minutes. Squeeze out the excess water and place in a large bowl with the mince, eg , onion, garlic and parsley. Season the mixture, then work it with your hands until well combined. Shape into walnut-sized balls. Sprinkle the f our into a wide shallow bowl and season. Roll the meatballs, a few at a time, in the seasoned f our, then shake of the excess. Heat the oil in a…

Anyone visiting the SIHH and Baselworld watch fairs this year will have noticed that weapons-grade ceramic – harder even than steel in scientific tests – is big news. Following ceramic pioneer Rado’s lead (the brand introduced this scratch-resistant finish back in 1986) marques such as Hublot, Omega and IWC are all incorporating ceramic elements in their models. Perhaps the vogue for super-hard ceramic is a metaphor for the wider horology business, a sign that the watch industry is adjusting its materials and attitude accordingly as times get tough. Certainly, the high end of the watch market has taken some low blows of late. The prospect of the Apple Watch (with predicted sales of 30 million units a year) and the government crackdown on ‘gift giving’ in China proved mere inconveniences…

Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani has been the director of the Bulgari Watch Design Centre in Rome since 2001. As Bulgari celebrates the 40th anniversary of its ‘Bulgari Bulgari’ watch with a new collection, he talks to Wallpaper* about shapes, sketches and superheroes. My passion is drawing. From the age of four, I started drawing superheroes, then I moved on to cars. the shape of a car must suggest its use, its performance; watches have the same goals but with the added, perhaps harder, challenge of fitting all this into a space 40mm across. At Bulgari we like to play with shapes, and the ‘Bulgari Bulgari’ has a very pure shape for a very bulky watch. some watches are pure functionality, but the first ‘Bulgari Bulgari’ was digital. Its design focused on…