Sommaire pour March 2023 de Robb Report

To explain how the pandemic placed a rocket booster on luxury-watch sales, the industry has embraced an overarching narrative: Stuck at home, watch-world aficionados and newcomers alike suddenly had nothing but time—and extra cash—to indulge their passion. Jaclyn Li is the embodiment of that phenomenon. An Ivy League undergraduate student pursuing a psychology degree with a minor in economics, who also worked part time for a Singapore-based venture-capital firm during Covid, Li discovered her interest in timepieces in 2019 and homed in on her passion during the lockdowns of 2020, the same year she and four fellow watch lovers founded the Waiting List podcast. She's since bought and traded some of the most sought-after wristwatches on the market, including vintage and modern styles from all the heavies: Audemars Piguet, Cartier,…

See Part of the National Gallery of Victoria, the Ian Potter Centre focuses on Australian art. The more than 16,000 works in the permanent collection include paintings, sculptures and textile pieces from First Nations artists, making it the best place in Victoria, and perhaps anywhere else, to see Indigenous art. Imbibe Need a break from all that wine? Stop in at Gimlet at Cavendish House, from star Melbourne chef Andrew McConnell, a retro-inspired cocktail bar inside a 1920s Art Deco building. As its name suggests, the gimlet is a standout drink—pair one with a plate of oysters with seaweed butter and rye. Caffeinate Melbourne is famous for its coffee, and the hype is warranted. A beloved staple, Atomica Coffee was the first coffee shop in the city to roast beans…

LUIS CAMPUZANO The Scandinavian Brands Reimagining Prep AMERICANS ARE USED to having Ivystyle, one of the nation's chief sartorial exports, served back to them. Typically this comes via Japan, where it's known as Ametora, or “American traditional,” and takes the form of bold, colorful neo-prep from retailers such as Beams Plus or precise period reproductions by bespoke makers including Tailor Caid. Today, a new batch of brands are playing in the Ivy sandbox, though they hail not from the Land of the Rising Sun, but of the Midnight Sun. Call it Scand-Ivy, and for those who appreciate American prep's easy but unfussy aesthetic, these clean, luxe interpretations take the genre in a direction that's less costume, more contemporary. “We wanted to create the type of ready-to-wear garments that worked for…

DOMAIN WHERE DESIGN LIVES Figlio di Audiface, Mauro Mori Like a Constantin Brancusi masterpiece, Italian sculptor Mauro Mori's sensual console table is reminiscent of an abstract portrait; an image of a father looking over his child. “Figlio” means son in Italian, Audiface is the name of Mori's father, and the sphere at the base represents the pupil of an eye. The artist hand-carved this one-of-a-kind functional artwork out of albizia rosea wood, which is an invasive species in Seychelles, where he lives half the year. A natural wax finish protects the material and celebrates the wood's grain. $43,000 Moltini, Coco Republic No, you can't play catch with this fiberglass sphere nor play checkers on the top. (There are just 36 squares here-a proper board calls for 64.) But with its…

I'm having this dream. I'm in a field, gazing up at the ruins of an old castle. My father is there. We head for the tower through the wind and tall grass, but all of a sudden we're surrounded by the castle guards. They're on all fours, staring at us, mute and beefily immovable-the guards are cows. I turn to my father, to ask what he makes of it all, but he just snaps a few pictures on his phone and says, “I thought it would be bigger.” A car honks on the road behind us and I realize I'm not asleep, I'm standing with Dad in a dairy pasture in County Cork, Ireland, in the shadow of Condon Castle, the ancestral home going back over 500 years-not that you'd…

Or the South of France, perhaps aboard a yacht, watching the beads of perspiration on my rosé trickle down the glass. (Neither reverie is likely to come true anytime soon, as my vacation venues are currently entirely chosen to best suit the changing fancies of my 5-year-old son, but whatever …) Such sartorial musings bring me to the discovery of a new generation of excellent Savile Row tailors plying their trade … not on Savile Row. Allow me to elaborate with an example. A couple of years ago, I tried out a new tailor in London. I commissioned a suit in a heavy herringbone tweed, and the result was outstanding. So we did a linen one. Up till then I'd always thought there was little point having a linen jacket…

HUBLOT IS WELL-KNOWN for its bombastic approach to watchmaking. Big and bold is its perennial aesthetic, achieved through high-octane complications, unexpected collaborations (Shepard Fairey, DJ Snake) and groundbreaking material innovations. The brand has never tried to be for everyone, though its latest, candy-colored-case construction is sure to resonate beyond its normal high-viz clientele. The Big Bang Tourbillon Yellow Neon SAXEM is crafted from a material used only by Hublot (it was also employed for a Spirit of Big Bang in green in 2019). A mixture of sapphire aluminum oxide and rare earth minerals (hence the acronym), it was concocted to achieve the timepiece's glowing yellow hue, which some have dubbed Mountain Dew thanks to its resemblance to the soda. “Color development took approximately three years,” says Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe.…

A TULIP GLASS of Dom Pérignon and a glass of Iwa 5 sake stood side by side as Richard Geoffroy, the man who made both, circled the dining room at Jungsik, a Korean restaurant with two Michelin stars in lower Manhattan. The pairing feast was about to begin. The Iwa 5, he announced, would be served at body temperature, cellar temperature and freezing throughout the meal, “to fully understand its yin-yang duality.” And to showcase how one luxury product had given rise to the other, guests could sip both sake and Champagne with every course—with the tuna and caviar, the charred octopus, the sea urchin bibimbap. Diners had paid $800 apiece to experience the unlikely synergy between East and West and to be among the first in America to enjoy…

The new seascapes and landscapes in Amy Lincoln's cozy studio, a skylighted converted garage behind her house on a quiet street in Queens, N.Y., burst with blues and magentas so vibrant, yellows and reds so brilliant, they'd make fireworks jealous. There are pink raindrops, green clouds and purple earth, lit by sunrays beaming down or radiating outward in concentric circles. The paintings, destined for a solo show opening at Sperone Westwater in New York this month, practically glow, as if illuminated on a giant iPhone. For Lincoln, that's no coincidence. Since creating a website for her art in the early 2000s, she has aimed to replicate on canvas the way pigment can light up digitally. “I remember thinking, ‘I want the color in the painting to be as bright in…

2023: Today, Jet A and A-1 type aviation fuels account for 99.9 percent of all jet-aircraft fuel usage; in 2022, about 60 million gallons of low-emissions, blended sustainable aviation fuel (SAF) were sold across all US flights, with about 12 percent used by private jets. Currently, 375 eVTOL designs are in development. 2025: The first eVTOLs are in service, as are a small number of hybrid-gas-electric aircraft, while hydrogen-fuel-cell propulsion is in the experimental phase, led by prototypes from Airbus and Embraer. 2030-2035: The use of SAF in US aviation is targeted to reach 3 billion gallons as refineries and distribution channels have expanded. With six market leaders projected to emerge, eVTOLs go mainstream, as do hybrid-gaselectric planes. Meanwhile, hydrogenfuel-cell and battery-powered aircraft enter service. 2050: The industry becomes carbonneutral…

Yellowstone PROBLEM: John Dutton's Barton Perreira sunglasses WHY IT'S WRONG: What is this, fashion week? Wealthy horsemen prefer purpose-built, impact-resistant shades from the likes of Vallon and Maui Jim. Dynasty PROBLEM: Dominique Deveraux accusing Alexis Colby of serving “burned” Champagne WHY IT'S WRONG: It's almost impossible to detect if your bottle has been briefly frozen. And if it has, the cork will pop out. Gossip Girl PROBLEM: Serena van der Woodsen running late to class because she can't get a cab WHY IT'S WRONG: It's New York City. Even rich kids take the subway-and those who don't have no problem getting a driver. Dallas PROBLEM: The modest house at Southfork Ranch WHY IT'S WRONG: The Ewings’ $2 billion oil empire (worth over $5 billion today) could have bought a home…

vs. NAMING RIGHTS Ingeniously named for its location between Fourth (now Park) and Sixth Avenues. Indirectly named after President James Madison. (The avenue begins at Madison Square, which is directly named after him.) ICONIC IMAGE Holly Golightly wearing last night's black dress outside her favorite store in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Don Draper falling from the Sterling Cooper offices during the opening credits of Mad Men. SECRET ORIGIN STORY After the Civil War, Mary Mason Jones built a series of mansions between 57th and 58th streets, minting the original Millionaire's Row. The Vanderbilts (and everyone else) followed suit. Madison wasn't part of the 1811 plan for Manhattan's rectangular grid. Developer Samuel B. Ruggles used his influence to have it pass through land he owned-and make it more valuable. NEW KIDS ON…

Australia's picturesque Yarra Valley offers a singularly opulent and ambitious culinary experience. If you've never visited Levantine Hill, a winery in the cool Yarra Valley region in the Australian state of Victoria, know that it's perfectly normal to see a helicopter landing outside the restaurant beside the vineyards. In a dining room hugged by wraparound windows, three banquettes are set inside sleek wine-barrel sculptures that jut dramatically through the glass walls, adding curves to the building's angular exterior and mirroring the structure's gently arced roof and the surrounding hills. Wherever you sit, be sure to enjoy one of the stellar, ChefHatted (Australia's equivalent of Michelin-starred) tasting menus. This is a culinary experience worth traveling across the world for. In 2020, executive chef Vinnie Robinson, who got his start washing dishes…

Looking to toast Saint Patrick this month? Bushmills, the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world, recently dropped Rare Cask #3, one of the most complex and full-bodied whiskeys ever produced by the storied Irish brand in its more than 400 years of existence. As the name implies, this is the third in Bushmills’ Rare Cask series of periodically released limited editions that showcase some of its oldest and most collectible whiskeys. Triple-copper-pot-distilled, then aged in a combination of bourbon and Oloroso sherry barrels, the whiskeys comprising Rare Cask #3 were left to mature for 13 years, after which they were vatted together to continue developing for another 17 years in a trio of first-fill Madeira casks. Finally bottled at a non-chill-filtered cask strength of 98 proof, the whiskey reveals…

WHEN PORSCHE PULLED Out of the nowdefunct Le Mans Prototype 1 (LMP1) division of the FIA's World Endurance Championship after the 2017 season, it walked away from a reign composed of three consecutive overall titles in four years. Now, though, the marque is on a crusade to crown itself in a new category and with a new car: the Le Mans Daytona hybrid (LMDh) Porsche 963. Porsche's return to endurance racing's highest echelon was pragmatic; the nascent LMDh class is found in both the FIA's global series and the IMSA SportsCar Championship, in North America. “To make a run for the big trophies in both championships with the same car, that was the main reason to come back,” says Urs Kuratle, Porsche's director of Factory Motorsport LMDh, citing the resultant…

A SAVILE ROW SUIT is a beautiful commodity: It's also a deeply traditional one. The Row's largest bespoke tailors-those, such as Huntsman and Henry Poole, whose names are spoken reverently by connois-seurs-stick rigidly to their house styles and offer an experience that can at times be, if not intimidating, then perhaps not entirely a bundle of laughs, either. And while men's style has grown more casual in recent years, many of the senior denizens of The Row have con-tinued to prioritize formalwear and business suits rather than evolve with the times. It's a state of affairs that can be frustrating to younger tailors, particularly those who joined the industry with dreams of working on the most famous street in fashion but who are also desper-ate to remain relevant, both culturally…