Tabla de contenidos para August 2019 en Wilderness

I’VE BEEN TAKEN TO TASK this month because in the July issue I reviewed three ‘budget’ raincoats, only some readers felt they weren’t budget at all (see a sampling in Pigeon Post, p6). Granted, the Rab jacket that cost $399 is debatable, but I reckon the other two – an Outdoor Research and Marmot jacket that both retail for $199 – are in the budget category. I like a bargain as much as the next person and I’ve had my fair share of really cheap gear: $4 walking poles that lasted just a few trips before the section clamps started slipping. Then there was the $25 stove that took 45 minutes to get my water luke-warm on a winter camping trip. I had a pair of cheap as chips over-trou…

THEY MAY NOT KNOW IT, but there’s more than a few whio, roroa and other species on the Mt Arthur tablelands of Kahurangi National Park who owe their existence to Maryann Ewers and her conservation-minded colleagues. And as the battle for their survival continues, Ewers remains very much at the forefront. “Did you hear the dawn chorus, aren’t those bellbirds amazing?” Ewers beamed as she greeted still-sleepy me, sipping coffee outside Whariwharangi Hut at 6.30am. I did, yes they are, and where are you off to so bright and early, I asked back, noting her backpack and boots. “I’m just popping over to Mutton Cove to do the toilets, I’ll probably see you on the way back,” and off she strode, still smiling about the bellbirds. This was last January.…

IN THE DARK COLD of Lake Rotoiti, the serpentine longfin eel prepares for her final journey. For 80 years, she’s prowled the lake’s depths, stalking fish, koura and ducklings. At well over a metre in length, she has long ago grown into her role at the top of the food chain. Her eyes, once small and beady, have become large, orb-like, with an ocean blue ring surrounding the pupil, and her head has elongated to a point, hydrodynamic and sleek – she is ready to breed. As the rains of autumn begin to fall, swelling lakes and rivers, the longfin sets off on her final swim. But to where, no one knows. The longfin eel is the most revered of all New Zealand freshwater fish species, and with good reason.…

A LASTING sanctuary in a sea of farmland, Trounson Kauri Park offers some of Northland’s most impressive remaining giants. Half an hour from Dargaville, the well-presented park is a humbling stroll back in time which keeps your eyes fixed ever upwards. Almost entirely boardwalked, and with a comprehensive kauri dieback station which all but forces you to clean your footwear, it’s a safe way to observe this threatened taonga. The 1.7km loop track won’t raise a sweat, but the breathtaking kauri will last in memory. When you stand awe-struck before a 1200-year-old specimen, it’s hard to comprehend how any industry could be worth the lives of so many giants. A weta box – full on my visit – is a neat addition to the walk, and the likelihood of spotting…

LIKE MOST GLACIERS in New Zealand, Franz Josef is retreating fairly quickly. From the valley floor, it is now impossible to get a sense of the sheer enormity of it. And the price of a helicopter flight isn’t within everyone’s budget. Fortunately, there is a way to freely view the glacier. But, it will cost eight hours of your day and an uphill puff of over 1000m. A small enough cost for priceless views with no queues. The track to Alex Knob is 2km along the glacier access road, just south of the township, where its beginning is shared with the Lake Wombat Track. It’s a well-maintained path lined with many exquisite ferns which leads hikers through the lush forest. After approximately 1km, a sign points to the beginning of…

OPOTIKI PROUDLY FACES NORTH, collecting the first rays of the morning sun as it rises over the Bay of Plenty. Sandwiched between the Otara and Waioeka Rivers, the town has survived many floods and storms to rebuild and move on. It was once Eastland’s major port and populated centre, but this, along with other industries and services, drifted west to Whakatane and Auckland. These days, the town is chocka over the summer with people flocking to its beautiful beaches, great fishing and now its incredible mountain bike tracks and trails. The Motu Trails are three very different rides that can be enjoyed individually or ridden sequentially and clockwise to form an epic 90km loop back to Opotiki. The three trails have their own distinct feel, scenery and soundtrack. They each…

AFTER 15 YEARS OF SKIPPERING, Abel Tasman AquaTaxi operator Spencer Bailey has seen it all – the good, the bad, and the smelly. From the North American visitor who spent a night up a tree because he thought he saw beer poo on the track, to the hiker who smelled so bad he was forced to swim before boarding, it’s impossible to predict what a new day will bring. “You can’t have a big group of people without a few tossers in the mix,” says Bailey. Regular offenders leave their rubbish behind, steal nights in the park or try to run off without paying for their taxi, but some visitors are so bizarre, staff are still scratching their heads, years later. Bailey’s colleagues were once shocked to find a brand…

SELECT YOUR SITE Avoid avalanche zones: Learn to recognise the risks and check the avalanche forecast for your area. Work with the weather: “If it’s possible, pitch your tent on the lee side of a slope, so you’re not hammered by the wind,” Johnson says. Look for landmarks: A heavy snow can make your tent site hard to find – take time to study your surroundings. Seek morning sun: Pitch your tent where it will catch the sunrise – it’s worth it for the views and the head start in drying your damp gear. Look for running water: Melting snow will deplete your gas quickly. Point your door downhill: Cold air sinks, and you don’t want to catch it as it flows downhill. SCULPT YOUR SLEEPING SPOT Dig down: In…

CONSERVATION STATUS Introduced and naturalised. FEATURES California quail are about the same size as a blackbird but look plumper. They are predominantly a blue-grey colour with a creamy chest covered in distinctive black scallop shapes giving a mottled appearance when seen from a distance. The female is generally slightly smaller and lacks the black chin strap of the male. This species of quail is best known and recognised by the prominent forward-curling black plume that grows from the top of its head. The male plume is larger than that of the female. CALL The male quail is more vocal. He likes to do his calling from elevated perches such as fence posts and the tops of shrubs. His most recognised call sounds just like ‘Chi-ca-go’ or ‘Dick-Vercoe’ or ‘qua-quergo’. Other…

Your book has won the grand prize at the NZ Mountain Film and Book Festival. What sets it apart? I think much of the appeal of the book is in how visual it is. It’s got stunning images that show the evolution of the way we’ve seen mountains in New Zealand from the late 18th century to the 1960s. It’s a visual record of the way we’ve seen the mountains through the promotional imagery that has been used and that really brings the story to life. In writing the book, what surprised you about early tourism to New Zealand? Two things that surprised me were how some of those really early paintings [by the first European visitors] were used to promote the country. And how much early European explorers and…

HYPOTHERMIA NEVER FAR AWAY Two articles in the June issue – one about the Timber Trail cycle trail which was billed as an ‘all-weather track’ and the other about hypothermia reminded me of a Manukau Tramping Club ride of the Timber Trail a few years ago. As we began the ride, clouds were gathering and at the 10km mark, it started to snow. We thought we were well-equipped with gloves and coats and decided to carry on. The snow became heavier and heavier. Our muscles produced plenty of heat as we climbed towards the top of the ridge. Fat mountain bike tyres go well over fresh snow and the snow made a soft cushion to fall in when we took a tumble. Once we started to come down the other…

SO CLOSE TO WELLINGTON, with a storied history encompassing triumph and tragedy, the Tararua Ranges have a near-mythical status in the tramping fraternity. Many a love affair with tramping has been born in these hills, yet it’s a mountain range that has more than its fair share of accidents and near-misses. One recent example was that of Peter Crosland, chronicled in the story ‘Rocks for a hard place’ (Wilderness, July 2019). By his own admission ill-equipped, and on an unfamiliar route in deteriorating weather, Crosland was plucked from the Tararuas by a rescue helicopter in the nick of time. In the century since the Tararua Tramping Club started leading trips into the ranges, many other trampers caught in similar conditions haven’t been as lucky. Crosland’s experience last January led him…

SEARCH ‘EVANS’ on the website topomap.co.nz and no fewer than 24 names pop up, including five mountains. Evans is a common Welsh surname, so it’s hardly surprising that so many feature on our maps, but who are these mountains named after? Three of the mountains are probably named for one man. Frederick John Evans served as the master on the Acheron, the ship that under Captain John Stokes made a comprehensive survey of New Zealand in the 1850s. These are all prominent peaks, visible from the sea: one in what is now Abel Tasman National Park, another on Banks Peninsula, and at least one in Fiordland National Park. The highest of the Mt Evanses is a striking summit in the central Southern Alps, a great bastion of a peak lying…

THIS IS NOT another account of a nose-to-tail march across Tongariro’s Alpine Crossing, but an alternative off-track adventure avoiding the crowds and visiting some hidden and untouched waypoints encircling Mt Ngauruhoe. We followed the well-beaten track from Mangatepopo car park to just past Mangatepopo Hut, where we scrambled through hardy tussock to Hardmans Ridge. Following the ridge, the tussock gives way to scoria, rocky outcrops, wildflowers, and patches of snow. It was June and early winter snowfall had given Tongariro and Ngauruhoe a solid base. The weather was nothing short of spectacular, and the vivid contrast of deep blue skies, pristine white peaks, and green moss underfoot made for very satisfying hiking. From our vantage point, as we negotiated the ridge, a full panorama of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Ruapehu,…

THERE ARE CERTAIN SOUNDS YOU EXPECT TO HEAR WHEN APPROACHING WAITEWAEWAE HUT IN TARARUA FOREST PARK. The steady rush of the Otaki River, for example. And certain sounds you don’t, such as a shrill, Australian-accent, welcoming your dog to the hut. But this is exactly what my uncle Andrew got last year when he and his tan-coloured cattle dog Sharni were greeted at the hut by an excited man strangely proclaiming, “Eats a dean-go!” Andrew didn’t know what to make of this sound at first until he realised the man was actually trying to say, ‘It’s a dingo!’ When my uncle told me this story, I listened with interest. He added that Waitewaewae Hut was full that night, and the night after. Along with the Australian, there were Americans, Germans…

IN THE 1970S, WOMEN WANTING TO EXPERIENCE THE GREAT OUTDOORS HAD TWO OPTIONS WHEN IT CAME TO CLOTHING AND GEAR; GET IT ALTERED TO FIT, OR PUT UP WITH DISCOMFORT. Thankfully, much has changed over the last several decades. New Zealand women are now properly catered for in the outdoor gear department both in retail stores and online. I should know; past shopping expeditions at Kathmandu, Macpac and Bivouac have left me with a drawer full of once sleek and now slightly battered trekking gear including women’s trekking pants, fleeces and thermals. My pride and joy is a beautiful tree-frog green raincoat which has stood me in good stead for nearly 10 years. The only time I opted for men’s outdoor clothing was because, at that particular time, they had…

1. SIZE THEM UP Poorly-fitted crampons are a danger on the slopes, so it’s important to purchase the right type, and adjust them before use. “There are a multitude of crampon options which vary in point, size, and count (how many metal spikes they have, and how long and sharp they are), the rigidity of the frame bar, and how they attach to your boots,” Sinclair says. “The best way to differentiate [which crampons to use] is to decide whether you are doing technical climbing, or just walking on snow.” To fit, slide the linking bar through the adjustment clip until your boot fits snugly between the toe and heel bindings. “When fitted well, the crampons should cling to your boots without the binding strap,” Sinclair says. When choosing…

I have fond memories of taking dense loaves of unsliced bread, stuffed into plastic milk bottles in an attempt to keep them intact, on my childhood tramping trips. Large slabs of these loaves were carved with our trusty Swiss Army knife and covered with my dad’s homemade chutney and cheese. This recipe is my version of this childhood loaf. PROFILE Prep time: 5min Rise time: 8hr Cook time: 45min Makes: One loaf Cost: $5-7 RECIPE 1¾ cups warm water 1 tsp honey 1 tsp baker’s yeast ¼ cup sunflower seeds ¼ cup pumpkin seeds 2 tbsp chia seeds 2 tbsp ground flaxseeds ½ cup whole rolled oats 1 tsp salt ½ tbsp cocoa powder METHOD In a large bowl, stir honey and water until honey is dissolved. Add yeast and…

Fly A heavy ripstop fabric is used to handle strong winds and snow-loading. A silicone coating raises the waterhead rating. The vestibule should be large enough to store all gear away from the elements. Guylines Multiple guyline attachments will be added to provide extra stability – essential for the exposed locations in which these tents are used. Floor A heavy-duty floor with a waterhead rating of up to 15,000mm will prevent water and melting snow seeping through. The higher the floor rating, the more durable it is and the less need to use a separate groundsheet. INNER To trap warm air, there will be little in the way of mesh fabric here. What little there is may be backed by a separate fabric lining to slow heat loss. Size Choose…

Get your photo published here to receive a double pack of BPA-free, biobased plastic Sporks worth $13. Learn more about Sporks at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz…

A MIRACULOUS FIND At the summit of Mt Urchin, during a four-day tramp in the Kaimanawas, the sole of my friend’s left boot began flapping like a demented pukeko. Tape was deployed and we continued to our Waipakihi River campsite. But on the following day’s walk up the river to Waipakihi Hut, the boot disintegrated. Using a pocket knife to punch holes, my mate tried to stitch the sole back on with twine. But the knife closed shut on his finger, leaving a deep gash. Frustrated by these speedbumps, I needed some alone time and headed up to Pt1475m nearby. That was when I spotted a lone boot lying abandoned in the middle of the track. With my mates approaching, I discretely hid it in my pack and we convened…

THIS IS NOT a dramatic story of crawling off the tops in a blizzard with a broken arm, but it is a reminder that we always need to be prepared to deal with unexpected challenges when in the outdoors. Following a late morning climb of Tararua Forest Park’s Jumbo Peak, I was at Jumbo Hut contemplating the route down to Atiwhakatu Hut. Raingauge Spur Track was a short distance away and, until last night, that was the route I intended to take. But that evening, with 17 souls crammed into the hut while a gale raged outside, a group of strangers had sat discussing the tracks in the vicinity and the alternative route off the tops, just to the north of Raingauge Spur Track. A seasoned tramper who knew the…

QUEENSTOWN is a party town and it’s the last place where I felt like staying. The hills beckoned beyond the tinsel town though, so I boarded the gondola for my escapade. Past the Skyline Restaurant, I followed the Ben Lomond Walkway into the shady pine forest. Eventually, the sounds of the town were lost to birdsong. The well-worn path sidled through steep terrain above One Mile Creek and up to a distant saddle. The trail then switched south-west for the final climb to the top of Ben Lomond (1748m). Short of the saddle, I followed a subsidiary ridgeline back towards Lake Wakatipu. Traversing a sequence of rounded tussock tops and tip-toeing along a serrated spine of rock, I searched for a campsite. Numerous bluffs peppered the slope, but I bravely…

ONE OF SOUTHLAND’S many well kept secrets, East Dome (1349m) is situated at the southern end of the Garvie Mountains, deep in sheep and cattle country. Flanked by the Dome Burn on the east and the Mataura River on the west, the summit offers spectacular views of the region. It was a dawn to dusk trip on a crisp winter’s day for our group. From Glenlapa Station, we followed the farm road above the Mataura river in our 4WD vehicle and at the first fork, took the left branch and continued to a mini saddle at Pt451. We left our vehicle here and continued on foot along the ridge for about 9km, dodging frozen puddles and passing an airstrip. When the road turned sharply to the right, directly below the…

MANSON COUNTRY INVOKES images of remote, wild terrain and campfires where weary souls might share tales of backcountry adventure. According to the book Shelter from the storm, the remote area, west of Kiwi Mouth Hut, was once part of Ngamatea Station and was grazed until as late as the 1950s. The area includes three huts, all named Manson: there is a Manson Hut, Old Manson Hut, and Manson Biv. It is common for hunters to fly into one or other of the huts, but the only thing being hunted on our long weekend was an outdoor adventure. Arriving at the Lakes car park, a DOC sign points the way to Kiwi Saddle Hut and the start of our adventure. The track passes beneath aromatic pines then zigzags through kanuka forest…

A PANORAMA OF TOWERING LIMESTONE FORMATIONS, CRAGS, SHEER CLIFFS AND SMOOTH MOUNTAIN FLANKS OPENED UP AROUND US WHEN I FIRST CAME ACROSS IMAGES OF THE INCREDIBLE KARST LANDSCAPE AT MT OWEN, I PUT IT RIGHT AT THE TOP OF MY WISH LIST. The terrain looked like something from a fairytale. Take the rolling limestone rock-scape of Canterbury’s Castle Hill, put it into Fiordland’s Valley of the Trolls, then blow it up tenfold. The result would look something like Kahurangi National Park’s Mt Owen and the surrounding open tops of the Marino Mountains. Our first attempt to visit Mt Owen failed due to a flooded ford – the road was under a solid metre of water. The second time we got our hopes up, I ended up in bed with a…

1- Macpac Hike Tight Softshell Pants $159.99 Pertex Equilibrium four-way stretch fabric, DWR treatment, quick-drying, soft elastic waistband, articulated knees, elastic cuffs, zipped hand pockets. www.macpac.co.nz 2- Rab Women’s Nexus Pull-on $139.95 Stretch fleece midlayer in a regular fit and with low bulk seams, YKK deep venting chest zip and chest pocket. 225g. www.outfitters.net.nz 3- The North Face Women’s Isabella $180 A 21-litre capacity pack with female-specific FlexVent injection-moulded shoulder straps, large compartment with universal sleeve, mesh zip pocket and two slip-in pockets and external mesh water bottle pockets. 595g. www.thenorthface.co.nz 4- Marmot Women’s Angel Fire Treadlight (TL) $699 An all-purpose, three-season bag made with recycled materials and certified 650-fill-power down with Down Defender to improve performance in wet conditions. Female-specific fit puts more insulation in areas of…

When walking a bearing, you can usually face the bearing, pick an identifiable feature and walk to it. This technique works well in open terrain, but it can be foiled by bad visibility or a lack of landmarks such as when travelling in dense bush. The leapfrog technique uses two or more people in the place of landmarks. Here’s how it’s done. 1. Everybody sets their compass to the bearing (direction of travel). Do this by rotating the dial until the desired degrees are set on the direction of travel arrow mark. 2. One person (the marker) stays put, facing the bearing. To do this they hold the compass flat with the direction of travel arrow facing away from them. They turn the dial until the red magnetic needle points…

Black Diamond Spot 325 $84.99 / 325 lumens / 80m / 86g Features: Three light modes – two white lights and a red light. There’s a large on/off button and a second smaller button which cycles between the three light modes. It’s powered by thee AAA batteries, offering a run time of 4hr on high (8hr on medium, 200hr on low). There’s also a transport lock and a strobe. Holding the large button dims and brightens the light. The PowerTap function allows you to tap the side of the lamp to instantly go back to full brightness. Tap again to revert to the dimmed setting. A battery indicator shows remaining battery life and an IPX8 rating makes it waterproof to 1m. 5/5 Comfort: With…

PACK My Black Diamond Stone 45 is a great climbing pack. It’s not too big (and if it is you can remove the lid for multi-pitch days) and not too small (and if it is you have straps on the side to attach more equipment). One neat feature is the full zip on the side in case you realise what is in the bottom of your pack should be at the top! CARABINERS I climb with DMM Alpha Sport Draws because they have a lovely clipping action and if you still cannot clip them fast enough you can also grab the nice thick dog bone rather than taking the flight. HELMET My Black Diamond Vapor is lightweight and comfortable, which means I am happy to wear it all the time.…