NOBODY GOES TO TIMBUKTU, RIGHT? PATRICK SYMMES DID, TO DISCOVER WHAT HAPPENED WHEN JIHADI REBELS SET OUT TO BURN ONE OF THE WORLD’S FINEST COLLECTIONS OF ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS. BOUNCING AROUND BY TRUCK, BOAT, AND BOOTS, HE GOT AN INTIMATE LOOK AT WEST AFRICA’S MOST MYTHIC LOCALE.
P PEOPLE DRESS LIKE kings and queens in the capital of Mali, even in the dirt streets on the far side of the river. The women walk down mud lanes wearing immaculate gowns with puffed shoulders, gold detailing, and beadwork. The dudes are natty, too, in safari suits, crisp officeboy outfits, or the grand boubou, the national robing that makes any man walk like a giant. Only the heroic boys everywhere—young teens carrying loads, pushing groceries, directing trucks—go around in recycled jeans and T-shirts.…