Table of contents for Sept 2017 in Wanderlust

The artistry of Moscow and the opulence of St Petersburg have long thrilled travellers. But the two cities were also once focal points for an erupting political scene that would change Imperial Russia forever. This year marks a century since a pair of uprisings saw the country first overthrow its ruling tsars, then swap its provisional government for Bolshevik-led Soviet rule. Yet many of the landmarks and buildings that defined this oppressive-era are now iconic sights, offering visitors a rare window on a remarkable moment in European history. Where should I visit? Begin in Moscow with the Russian capital’s Red Square; this was the parade ground of Bolshevik troops following the October Revolution. The mausoleum of Lenin (co- founder of the Bolsheviks) and the Kremlin also lie on its fringes,…

We’ve all seen it: a plastic bottle floating in the water while we’re snorkelling in the Mediterranean shallows or on board an expedition cruise around the Galápagos Islands. It’s a blatant eyesore, and one that never fails to blunt our travel experience. But it’s not just the idea that somewhere so remote could still bear the signs of human interference, it’s also the unseen damage that it’s doing to the environment. It’s a concern shared by tour operator Steppes Travel, which is keen to raise awareness about the harm plastics are doing to the world around us, a message that is also the focus of its Beyond Travel Festival later this year. Now Steppes is hoping to get you involved in making a difference and ensuring our planet’s waters and…

‘Travelling with something that’s small enough for a plane cabin ensures there’s no hanging around at the baggage carousel when you reach your destination, meaning you can start your adventure that bit earlier’ Fitting all of your travel possessions into one piece of luggage small enough for an overhead locker saves time and reduces the chance of losing your belongings en route. But too often we give into doubts: am I bringing enough? How will I squeeze it all in? What do I leave out? But it’s easier than you think, so read on, and you’ll soon be waving goodbye to the baggage carousel… Why do it? “Freedom,” says Wanderlust’s editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes, who co-founded this magazine after returning from a trip around South America with just hand luggage. “You…

The 6,000 islands and islets that dot the waters off Greece’s coast are the thing of legend – quite literally. But they serve as a playground not just for the mythological gods, but for travellers too, with visitors lured away from the mainland by the volcanic lands, wild trails, ancient ruins, and authentic tavernas. Ample ferry services mean anyone can afford to go island hopping, while sailing enthusiasts can easily find a boat and willing crew in the larger port cities and towns for a more active adventure – whether marvelling at the historical wonders that dot the Aegean, or traversing the more relaxing charms of the Saronic Gulf and Ionian Sea. Southern Aegean Sea Ferries link most of the inhabited islands of the Aegean Sea, but if you don’t…

Get orientated Nearly 30 years ago, Berlin was the focus of one of the biggest moments in European history. The Berlin Wall was the symbol of the Cold War, dividing not only Germany but Western Europe and the Eastern Bloc. But when tensions thawed in 1989, it finally came down and reunification began. Over the decades since, Berlin has transformed into a cosmopolitan capital known for its nightlife, art and food. Checkpoint Charlie and chunks of Wall still stand, but few realise how much of the city has been rebuilt. From the Brandenburg Gate to the political hub of the Reichstag – restored in 1999, though graffiti scribbled by its Soviet liberators in 1945 can still be seen – this is a capital reborn. Getting there & around Several UK…

You can’t avoid politics in Washington, DC. Home of the White House, the Supreme Court and the National Archives (keeper of the Bill of Rights and the Declaration of Independence), it is decidedly inescapable. But don’t let that put you off. Scratch below the surface and you will find a surprisingly laid-back city – in 2014 it was voted the second most liberal metropolis in the country. That’s not to say people don’t discuss the resident of the nation’s most famous homestead, but they do it here over fresh coffee in independent bookshops or while out jogging in one of the 23 parks that dot its sprawling – and lush– surburbs, or while kayaking or paddleboarding down the Potomac River. This is a city whose residents like to get outside…

China is enormous in every way. A vast landscape, epic history and rapidly growing cities make it simultaneously travel’s oldest and newest destination. And with the recent launch of Hainan Airlines’ newly expanded daily route from Manchester to Beijing, unravelling its wealth of sights has never been easier. Not only that, even its new uniform evokes the very traditions you’ll be travelling in search of, meaning Hainan Airlines is perfectly placed (and dressed) to whisk you away on your very own Chinese odyssey. Dressed to impress With Hainan, your Chinese adventure begins as soon as you set foot on the plane. That feeling is embodied by its new uniform, which is laced with important elements of Chinese culture. Clouds are a prominent part of the country’s traditions, representing good fortune,…

1 Great Wall, China Walking the tourist area of this ancient wonder is one thing, but many travellers want to camp on its wilder sections. However, not only is this largely illegal, but it can further loosen its fragile stones. 2 Sistine Chapel, Vatican City  Michelangelo’s frescoes may take your breath away but they’re being scarred for that very reason: bodily humidity and carbon dioxide from visitors’ breathing is gradually damaging the ancient facades. 3 Phuket, Thailand  The islands off the coast of Phuket are known for clear waters and palm-fringed coastlines, but its shallow reefs are most at risk, with swimmers accidentally stepping on, and destroying, its delicate coral. 4 Teotihuacan, Mexico  The ancient city complex is one of Mesoamerica’s great mysteries, and summitting its Pyramid of the Sun…

Following catastrophic losses in WWI, the Russian Revolution of 1917 forced Tsar Nicholas II to abdicate, ending more than 300 years of Romanov rule. Vladimir Lenin became the founder of a new soviet state, ushering in an era of communism that would last for over seven decades. Now, a century after the Russian Revolution, Regent Holidays explores Moscow and St Petersburg – two cities shaped by the gigantic political and cultural shifts of the 20th century. MOSCOW The sprawling capital comes caked in thick layers of history; here remnants of the Soviet era are sandwiched between glittering treasures of imperialism and modern-day oligarch wealth. Every inch of Red Square - the beating heart of the city - oozes importance. Bordered by the colourful cupolas of St Basil’s Cathedral, the imposing…

How do you put a price on a bowl of fish soup? You may well have had cheaper chowders than the cream-topped broth of salmon and prawns served at the Fjöruhúsid café, but when sat on its terrace, snug between the glittering Atlantic and a snowcapped volcano, shelling out just over a tenner will seem like an absolute bargain. Walk the clifftop path between Arnarstapi and Hellnar and you’ll find a pair of far-flung fishing villages at the tip of West Iceland’s Snaefellsnes Peninsula. It’s only a short walk – barely 3km. But in the couple of hours that you will spend ambling along the wave-gnawed coast, you may spot seals squirming in kelp off a beach of polished basalt pebbles or a white-tailed eagle pirouetting against a meringue whip…

The sound was eerie, almost primeval. It made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up. The loud roars were coming from different sides of the lagoon, as if two groups of something fearsome were trying to outdo each other. Paddling in the half-light of pre-dawn, it was easy to imagine that we were canoeing past Jurassic Park, and a dinosaur might stick its head through the tangle of trees any minute. I turned to guide Abdul. “Howlers?” “Yes,” he confirmed. “Howler monkeys. The sound scares people if they don’t know what it is.” We entered a tranquil channel, and paused in awe as the golden orb of the sun came up over the reed-beds. As the roars of the monkeys faded, they were replaced by an explosion…

 Q I want to do a rail tour of Switzerland. What’s the best way? ‘The Glacier Express is predictably stunning, running from St Moritz and passing over 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels’ Dale Sharpe, via email A Switzerland is ideal for touring by train – all the clichés of efficiency and smooth service are true. Even the smallest towns and villages are connected either by train or a fully integrated network of local buses, plus boats, cable cars and rack (cog) railways where needed. The Swiss Travel Pass ( swisstravelsystem.com ) allows travel over continuous days, or several designated days during a set period. For example, three consecutive days costs £176, rising to £372 for 15 days. The Flex passes cost £202 for three days, and up…

‘Nick extolled the benefits of an island where parents could let their kids run wild on empty beaches, knowing they would come to no harm’ A voice hissed from the dark: “Quick! They have found one up ahead!” We turned our torches away from scanning the undergrowth and strode up the hill towards the silhouetted figures, anticipation rising. Reaching the spot where the guide was waiting, we formed a silent semicircle as she switched on her torch to finally reveal our quarry: a little blonde hedgehog. Not that the hedgehog was thrilled to see us. It scurried off, across the fairway of Alderney Golf Club and into a bush. So, a brief encounter, but at least we had seen one of the island’s most famous residents. Alderney is the most…

Some bias should be admitted first. I grew up, and live, in South Africa. I also wrote the first international guidebook to the country in the aftermath of Nelson Mandela’s release, and I’ve since dedicated something like three years to exploring its highways and backroads. Yet, far from harbouring a been-there-done-that feeling about South Africa, it remains my favourite travel destination. Primarily, this is due to the breadth and depth of its natural attractions. When it comes to biodiversity, ecologists have ranked South Africa among the world’s three most significant countries. And you don’t need to be a scientist to be inspired by a country that goes from the wildlife-rich savannah of Kruger National Park and the heather-draped headlands of the Cape Peninsula to the austere desertscapes of Kgalagadi and…

Coral reefs are among the world’s most dazzling sights. That feeling we get when snorkelling these hidden worlds rightfully puts them at the top of most traveller’s bucket lists. But it’s worth remembering that they are also very fragile. And nothing shows that better than these photos taken in Pago Pago, the capital of American Samoa. The images were captured in new documentary Chasing Coral (Netflix, out now). The one on the left was shot in December 2014; the other, just three months later. The change in colour illustrates coral bleaching – where rising sea temperatures result in the coral expelling its living algae. But though it’s a serious issue, it’s not all doom and gloom. Travellers who choose responsible tour operators on coral visits to places such as Australia’s…

Why go? While most travellers heading to Denmark flock to its stylish capital, Copenhagen, few explore the country’s far north. But with Norwegian flights now departing London Gatwick for the revitalised city of Aalborg in September, what better time to grab a slice of northern soul. Aalborg’s setting certainly justifies those extra kilometres. Sat on the banks of the Limfjord – scything the Jutland peninsula in two – its once derelict dockside has been reborn as a promenade. Follow it west to the curvaceous Utzon Centre, the last building to be designed by Sydney Opera House architect Jorn Utzon. For views, head up the dizzying Aalborg Tower before grabbing a new perspective underground. A lift by the Salling department store takes you down into the remains of a dark 13th-century…

Hopping on a cruise is the ultimate in travel indulgence for some: drink in hand, sunning yourself on deck and watching landscapes drift on by. But river cruises are a whole other proposition, with no lazy days spent milling about at sea and plenty of wild stops throughout the day. They can give you a fresh perspective on familiar places and help ford hard-to-reach destinations, as well as provide a window on local history and untouched wildernesses. These aren’t your normal clichéd cruises, and we think these nine trips will definitely float your boat... 1. Vietnam & Cambodia Meander the Mekong Hop on board a replica 1920s steamer along one of Asia’s great waterways on Audley Travel’s Cruising the Mekong from Saigon to Siem Reap trip. Explore Ho Chi Minh…

All was not what it seemed in the bamboo and mahogany forests of Cambodia’s Dangrek Mountains. Besides cicadas revving like tiny chainsaws, I heard the distant grunts of soldiers performing PT (physical training). A mess tent surrounded by black sandbags rattled to the sound of cooking pans, and fixed to the anaemic bark of a dipterocarpus tree was a red sign bearing a skull and crossbones. Landmines, it warned. “The mines are cleared now,” reassured my guide, Kao Bunthoeun. “But we should stick to the pathway.” We followed the 2,400 steps of the ancient Angkorian Khmer route until reaching a sinuous trench resembling something out of the First World War. It stretched along an escarpment protecting pokey little bunkers and bulwarked by yet more sandbags. There were no Cambodian troops…

What’s happening in Brazil? A very special celebration of freedom. This 7 September marks 195 years since Brazil declared its independence from Portugal, following more than three centuries of European rule. Of course, it wasn’t until 29 August 1825 that an official treaty was signed by the two countries, but locals still prefer to celebrate the original date. I’m guessing it was a bloody affair... It wasn’t, actually. There was relatively little violence, mainly down to the fact that the revolution was partly instigated by Portugal’s own royal family, which had fled to Brazil 15 years earlier, to escape Napoleon’s of invasion of their country. So you’re telling me it was an inside job? Yes. When Napoleon was finally defeated, King João VI returned home and left his son Pedro…

HOOD As softshell jackets are not meant to be waterproof, it’s not vital that they have hoods. It’s solely a case of personal choice whether or not you want one, but if you do, an adjustable hood that fits well is a good idea, so that when you turn your head, the hood moves with you. To use on activities (cycling, kayaking, climbing, horseriding), opt for one that is helmet compatible. POCKETS These can be useful for maps, tickets, important documents and phones. Some people like lots; but remember, they will add weight. Mesh ones offer better ventilation, and zips will help keep your things secure. FABRIC For flexibility in a multitude of conditions, look for a wind-stopping fabric that is breathable and water-resistant (so it will keep you dry…

Status Alderney is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey, a British Crown dependency, meaning that it is self-governing but its residents remain British citizens. Health & safety There are no particular health risks, but note that there is no reciprocal healthcare with the UK or EU, so you will need to pay for any treatment. There are two GPs and a hospital on the island. Getting there Alderney is 15 minutes flying time from Guernsey. Flights from London Gatwick to Alderney via Guernsey are available from £203.58 return with Aurigny (www.aurigny.com, 01481 822886) and take around 2.5 hours. The same airline also flies direct from Southampton, which has good train links with London. But note that planes can occasionally be grounded due to fog or adverse weather conditions. It is…

Where does your Wanderlust take you? Every month, we ask ‘Where does your Wanderlust take you?’, giving you a chance to win a goody bag including a versatile High UV with Insect Shield Buff® – the ultimate travel accessory (from £23.25 RRP). But can you top Pete (above)? Show us where your Wanderlust takes you and where you take your Wanderlust! Take your magazine with you on your next trip and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk  or hashtag it #wanderlustmag on Instagram.…

Before you arrive Fez may lag behind Marrakech when it comes to hip riads and sophisticated restaurants, but there’s a transformation underway. Ancient palaces are being reinvented as boutique hotels and homegrown and expat chefs are turning market produce into gourmet fare. Still, in Morocco’s oldest and, arguably, most fascinating imperial city, some things will never change. Time appears to have ground to a halt in the 8th-century Fez el Bali, the world’s largest living medieval medina. Inside lies a jumble of souks, workshops and mosques; a sensory overload of sights and smells all competing against the sound of the muezzin (men issuing the call to prayer). Wandering its tangle of more than 9,000 narrow alleyways is like stepping into the past. Nearby, outside the Bab Boujeloud (Blue Gate), the…