Table of contents for July/August 2016 in Wanderlust

Have you found yourself dreaming of escaping? We certainly have, so we set about exploring some of the world’s most incredible outposts, from remote archipelagos to isolated towns (p38) – all well worth the effort it takes to visit. Not that all are difficult to get to. There has been a flurry of new flight routes launched recently. Even though the highly anticipated passenger flights into St Helena (p43) were delayed as we went to press, they’re still expected to happen this year. With fresh routes opening up South America, including direct flights to Peru from the UK, we decided to revisit magical Lake Titicaca (p26). We also tackle an Australian legend: the route that links Cairns to the very northernmost tip of the country (p86). But you don’t have…

CAROLINE EDEN Cookbook author and travel writer A prolific traveller, Caroline turned her hand to food writing after trips to Central Asia, Turkey and Russia convinced her to write Samarkand: Recipes & Stories from Central Asia & the Caucasus. Turn to p16 for her take on Azerbaijani grub Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Definitely mountain. First great travel experience? India. After graduating, I spent six months travelling around from north to south, east to west – it blew my mind and I still love it now. Favourite journey? Edinburgh to the Highlands on a sunny day. Top five places worldwide? Samarkand, Uzbekistan; Kolkata, India; North Yorkshire, UK; Bangladesh; and the gardens at hotel La Mamounia, Marrakech. Passport stamp you’re proudest of? Haiti. Passport stamp you’d most like…

‘Wait until after the Games and you could see bigger crowds than during the Olympics’ When cities host the Olympic Games, we often picture huge crowds and immediately delay any potential travel plans there. But tourist-trauma is not always the case. The Games can even free up space for travellers as focus turns elsewhere. The Guardian reported that some UK attractions suffered a 60% dip in visitors when London hosted in 2012. For travellers it can mean the best of both worlds. “The feeling has been to stay away from Olympic Games in the past,” explains Kate Kenward of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. “Now travellers may be more inclined to go there and enjoy the fun with the locals, especially if it’s on their bucket list.” It’s not…

Visitors to Azerbaijan receive the belly-benefits of its position and history straddling Eastern Europe and Western Asia. Its people are of Turkic origin, while its position along the Silk Road brought it a host of rare ingredients. Plenty of Russian dishes have also crept onto menus, largely thanks to its Soviet past. Geography has shaped Azerbaijan’s cuisine in other ways. With the Caucasus range to the north and Caspian Sea to the east, it’s said to experiences nine of the 11 climate types, with its soils yielding a variety of produce. The closer you get to the Caspian, the more you find the sea’s treasures: salmon, sturgeon and sardines, while its black caviar is a delicacy sought the world over. In turn, Azerbaijanis are fiercely proud of their cuisine. Officials…

Fancy an enjoyable peak at the frantically paddling legs underneath the travel industry’s ‘smooth’ runnings? Dave Richardson’s Let’s Go (Amberley, £15) charts the rise of ‘package and escorted’ tours in the 1950s – and the lowering of prices – that revolutionised tourism. He navigates his way through the people, practices, places and politics that helped open up the planet – and also society a little bit too. Of course, there are still people who go it alone. Roger Taylor really does do it all by himself in his fourth book Mingming II & The Islands of Ice (The FitzRoy Press, £12), which sees the sailor takes his self-made yacht on a 55-day voyage from Scotland all the way up to Svalbard. It’s a rather extraordinary Arctic adventure from an equally…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Lima (Peru) / La Paz (Bolivia) Population: 30.8 million / 10.8 million Languages: Aymara, Spanish, Quechua Time: GMT-5 / GMT-4 International dialling code: +51 / +591 Visas: UK nationals do not require a visa for stays of up to six months in Peru and up to 30 days in Bolivia. Money: Peruvian Sol (PEN), currently about PEN4.81 to the £UK; Bolivian Boliviano (BOB), BOB9.95 to the £UK. When to go • Dry season: cool after dark, but clear skies and low winds make the lake a very pleasant environment. July to August are peak holiday times, so the islands and archaeological sites get busier. Temperatures are around 15ºC. • Rainy season on the altiplano and in Peru’s Sacred Valley. Cooler weather; January is the wettest month. Health…

1 Best for... solitude North Cornwall, UK The North Cornwall coast is one of the most consistently impressive runs in the UK – and it’s quiet, too. I’ve never passed another runner between Beeny Cliff and Tintagel. 2 Best for... views Table Mountain, S. Africa The climb out of Cape Town is slow at first but the incline soon sharpens up on Table Mountain, so even the fittest of runners will switch to a walk-run. The view from the top hits you like a sucker punch – but perhaps take the cable car back down. 3 Best for... history Berlin, Germany There are few places that make history feel so present as Berlin. It has all the parks and wide-open spaces that you would expect of a major city, but…

1 Check your lens Keep your camera, or phone, in a waterproof cover when not in use and regularly check the lens. Moisture can form on its surface when shooting in mist, so use a clean, soft cloth to gently wipe away any that develops. 2 Carry a map Fog can be disorientating. GPS technology is not foolproof. So, for safety and to save a lot of time and anguish, carry a compass and map as backup (and know how to use them). In the UK the Ordnance Survey Explorer series (scale 1:25,000) provides detailed information and is indispensible when searching for good shots. 3 Find the right balance Obviously there is a point at which mist goes from dramatic interest to scene stealer. You need the right balance of…

WHICH TYPE? There are a range of water treatment devices on the market, from simple chlorine drops and tablets to more advanced purifiers, such as microfilters (in bottle or pump-action) and UV light stirrers. All have their advantages and disadvantages. Tablets and drops are small and easy to use but can taste unpleasant. In bottle filter-based systems are quick but will mean changing the filters regularly; they will also take up space in the water bottle, meaning less water. Pump-action filters require effort to make your water safe, and while UV purifiers are lighter, you will need to take spare batteries. It’s a case of personal choice as to which you prefer. WEIGHT AND SIZE Both are key when travelling. Smaller and lighter are usually better for the casual user,…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Canberra Population: 24 million Language: English with Aboriginal and islander languages. Time: GMT+10 International dialling code: +61 Visas: Visas should be obtained prior to travel. An eVisitor visa can be obtained online for free at www.border.gov.au and allows for visits lasting up to three months. Money: Australian dollar (AUD), currently AUD1.95 to the UK£. When to go • 4WD season. Temperatures remain hot (over 30ºC) and humid. June-August is peak season. Look out for Cooktown’s re-enactment of Captain Cook’s arrival (10–12 June) and the biannual Laura Dance Festival (June 2017). • Wet season – driving is too dangerous, but the mainland tip and Torres Strait can be reached by ship or air. Health & safety No specific vaccinations are required, but insect repellent is a must. The…

High in the heart of Switzerland, where dragons live in history and myth, a hotel touches the alpine sky, offering a rare escape. Soaring imposingly above the charming lakeside town of Lucerne, Mount Pilatus welcomes thousands of visitors every day. We seemed to meet most of them as we crossed the town’s famous wooden footbridge on the way to take the slowboat across its glassy lake. We clung to the handrails of the vertiginous cog railway beside them and then followed them along the Dragon Path, which wound around the heights of the mountain, where centuries-old legends tell of fearful winged creatures that once dwelt among the crags. Every one of the peak’s many vantage points offered endless views of lakes, foothills and ancient towns. Tiny cows clanged their bells…

STAR LETTER Invasive tourism I was recently in Venice for a few days of relaxing and sightseeing. As I was sitting in a piazza drinking wine and people-watching, I heard a commotion and looked over to see what was going on. I was taken aback to see a funeral procession leaving a church and walking towards a row of gondolas. As I watched, the coffin was carefully placed in the first gondola while the family climbed into the others. At first it seemed an unusual sight, but I quickly realised that, to the Venetian people, it must be a part of life – how else can they conduct funerals in a city with no roads? After the initial surprise, my expression changed to one of horror because of the commotion…

Birding and biking together in the Netherlands. I cycled the Ijsselmeer and spotted geese, kestrels and more. Dineke ten Hove Gawping at Kangaroo Island’s wildlife. I’ve really got to travel to Australia one day! @bokeflo Sharing the waters with gentle giants. Swimming with humpback whales is a humbling experience. krismadden Inspiring the next generation. Wanderlust has definitely taught my two to value the world and become the hardworking adults that they are. Sharon Charlemos-Cheung Being wowed by whale sharks. I was once surrounded by 25 of them as the sun dipped below the South Atlantic horizon. Best evening ever. @Essex_Grouch Meeting death-defying cyclists in Tuscany. Tiny, winding roads with hairpin turns and then boom! Cyclists right in front of you – it seemed so dangerous! Kelly Follett Getting top-notch travel…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Bissau Population: 1.7 million Languages: Portuguese and Crioulo. Some English and French is spoken. Time: GMT-1 Visas: Required by British nationals. Apply online at www.rgb-visa.com Money: West African CFA franc (XOF), currently around XOF860 to the UK£. ATMs are not easily available and credit cards not widely accepted. When to go • The rainy season – July and August are usually the wettest months. • The best time to visit, with cooler temperatures and dry conditions. • Hot and humid, with average temperatures of around 33ºC. Health & safety Proof of a yellow fever vaccination is required for entry into Guinea-Bissau. Precautions should be taken against malaria, but there have been no cases of Ebola reported. Avoid tap water. Guinea-Bissau is, largely speaking, a safe country, but…

Before you arrive Set deep in the lush Gianyar foothills, amid tumbling ravines and rippling rice fields, Ubud’s inland setting is both its charm and saving grace. The city’s location has meant that it skipped a lot of the rapid 20th-century growth that befell Bali’s southern coast, letting it develop at a slower pace. In many ways it’s a work of art. What were once a handful of artisan villages, home to wood-carvers, textile makers and painters, merged over time. By the 1930s, European artists flocked here, drawn by its creative spirit, building the city’s first galleries and confirming it as Bali’s cultural heartland. But the old skills were not forgotten. Even now, some neighbourhoods and villages are still better known for their specialist crafts. Pay a visit to Mas,…

Whether knowingly or unknowingly, if you have ever seen an image of the Republic of Macedonia, it will almost certainly be of the cute little church of St Jovan Kaneo, perched on a clifftop with the cerulean shimmer of Lake Ohrid twinkling behind it. And yet relatively few find their way to these ancient waters. Lake Ohrid (“Ok-rid”) is one of the oldest lakes in the world, almost certainly the oldest in Europe, and among the deepest too. Not surprisingly, it has a rich history and is a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with the jewel that is Ohrid town. Here you will find churches galore (it is believed that Ohrid once had 365, one for every day of the year) as well as a medieval fortress, a Roman theatre,…

• Essential Info When to go: There are a number of summer festivals, including Ohrid Summer Festival (mid-July to mid-August) which has classical music and plays. Spring and autumn are beautiful, quiet and cheaper. Getting There: Wizz Air (wizzair.com) fly twice-weekly (Wed and Sun) from London Luton to Ohrid (3 hours; from £60 return). They also fly five times a week to Skopje (3 hours; from £64 return), with a three-hour bus connection (£4.50 return) to Ohrid. Getting around: The old town is easily walkable (although hilly). Boat trips and boat taxis are available from the harbour. Where to stay: St Naum, at the southern end of the lake (near the Albania border), is busy during the day but less so later in the evening. A stay in converted monastery…

Get orientated If its old moniker holds true, there will always be a Rome. Forever is a long time, but 2016 could be the best year yet to embrace the Eternal City, as it gets a rather belated spring clean. The Italian capital is currently abuzz with Catholic fervour. Pope Francis has declared a ‘Year of Mercy’ – only the 27th such jubilee ever – with parts of the Vatican previously off-limits now open to the public. And in the spirit of dusting away cobwebs, two of Rome’s stars have had facelifts: the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum. The latter spent more than a year being cleaned (for the first time), and now the scaffolding has come down, it has returned to its original sandy hue – not seen in…

Japan is synonymous with the modern. Yet an older world survives. In rural Japan, the year is ticked off in festivals, marked by centuries-old rituals. These are the subject of Charles Fréger’s new book in which he recreates the folk figures (yokai) of traditional Japanese dances – many of which are still performed today. Deep in the southern hill town of Tsuwano see the sagi (heron; bottom left) dance every July in a good luck ritual. April sees taueodori (rice-planting dances) held across north-eastern Honshu villages, where a paddy owner welcomes a saotome (rice-planting maiden; top left) to his fields. Yokainoshima: Island of Monsters (Thames & Hudson) is out now…

1 Sir David Attenborough can’t drive (Nigel Marven once drove him across Spain); p18 2 You can grab an alternative sleep in Arctic Norway by kipping inside a glacier on Svalbard; p56 3 Birds are as perilous as crocs or death adders in Cape York – a cassowary can hospitalise you; p86 4 Divorce in parts of Guinea Bissau is simple – the woman just hangs a special bag outside her home; p118 5 Traditionally, Aymara men in Bolivia impress women not with their looks but their knitting skills; p26…

‘We were in the water too long and the specialist got fish oil on his leg: a bull shark took 26 inches out of his flesh’ How did your interest in wildlife start? I’ve never been interested in anything else. My parents thought I would grow out of it, but I’ve lived and breathed animals for as long as I can remember. How did you make a passion your day job? If you want to become a producer or presenter, it’s best if you work hard at school and get a degree in the subject you love because then you can speak to experts competently. My first job was as a worm wrangler when I was still at university. They were doing a thing where Andrew Sachs was miniaturised and…

YES Tabitha Green Wanderlust reader “From what I’ve read, Koh Tachai has been very badly damaged, and anything short of a full closure could result in the harm becoming irreparable. If so, I think full closure is a reasonable response – plus they are still allowing some dive sites. I think we have too much expectation these days that we should be able to access anywhere we wish to go.” NO David Higgins Wanderlust reader “There are many protected places that could benefit from limiting visitor numbers. But this sounds like an example of where management has gone wrong by not being pro-active and having policies to ensure protection and still allow visitors, albeit in fewer numbers. The main problem with placing limits is that the price goes up and…

VITAL STATISTICS Regional Capital: Longyearbyen Population: 2,100 Languages: Norwegian, but English is widely spoken in the region. Time: GMT+1 (GMT+2 Mar-Oct) International dialling code: +47 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Norwegian Krone (NOK), currently around 12NOK to UK£. There is an ATM in Longyearbyen but taking cash is strongly advised. Most bars, restaurants and shops accept credit cards. When to go • Polar Night: Temperatures plummet (between -7ºC and -17ºC) and the aurora borealis comes out to play. Great for husky-sledding and snowmobiling. • Midnight Sun: 24 hours of daylight. May-Sept is a prime time for spotting polar bears and watching whales. Temps average between 3ºC and 7ºC. • Shoulder season: A good time to avoid the crowds, but still spot the local wildlife. Temps are mild but…

Wanderlust reader Anna Blackwell tells us about the first time she braved the wild What made you want to try wild camping? Social media. I saw photos of wilderness sunsets, sunrises and views through the tent door that made me desperate to try it. Where did you go for your first camp? Avon Dam Reservoir on Dartmoor, UK. I’d bought books on wild camping and read a lot of advice online, so decided to try somewhere near where I live first. Were you scared? I used to go camping as a child with my family, but only ever on campsites, so walking off with no phone signal and no hot shower nearby was a bit worrying. Plus I had a friend with me who had very little outdoors experience, so…

‘The fitter you are, the less likely you will be to suffer from air pollution, so the overweight may struggle where air quality is poor’ As my overnight flight zeroed in on Yangon, I sat transfixed, watching the rising sun paint the clouds a rich, deep orange. But this wasn’t just a trick of the light: what I saw was a huge slick of air pollution in the sky, looking for all the world like brick dust. Most cities have such plumes now. A new report by the World Health Organisation (WHO) underlines the extent of the problem, reporting that more than 80% of people living in urban areas – where pollution is monitored – are breathing air containing unhealthy quantities of disease-causing particles. The problem is at its worst…

WATER-TO-GO Go! Bottle £13 THE TEST: Using filter technology (where the water is squeezed through tiny holes to force out contaminants), this bottle offers 99.9% protection against bacteria, protozoa and viruses. The filtration is mechanical (though no batteries are required) and the device works by attracting the impurities magnet-like. It reportedly remains effective for up to 130 litres and has a handy indicator to tell you when it needs changing (replacements around £15 for two). However, users should note that it can be left to ‘dry out’ (not used for long periods) just three times before it needs replacing. In terms of use, it couldn’t be easier. Simply unscrew the lid, fill the bottle and you can drink immediately. The flow rate is reasonable (600ml/minute) and it’s light (103g), but…

On a sunny day tourists rain down upon the ancient Roman city of Pompeii. So, as we wandered its perfectly preserved streets, houses and palaces relatively undisturbed, soaking in the city’s timeless beauty, I couldn’t help but reflect on a plan well executed. We visited during February’s mid-term break, choosing to stay in Pompeii town rather than make the arduous day-trek up from Naples. Long before the crowds hit, we would be at its gates, and eventually reached the amphitheatre entrance around 8.25am. Inside, it looked for all the world like we were the only visitors there, until the ‘guides’ descended. We swatted them away, choosing to wander on our own. But, as we passed, one pointed to a steel staircase, yelling: “Did you see the bodies?” – a hopeful…

Scotland Wanderlust forum user Kenneth Langley reflects on 19 days in the UK’s wild jewel The highlight: The Isle of Skye was unspoilt and rugged, with great hiking, tremendous views, wildlife (golden and sea eagles) and wonderful seafood. Must see: Lots – the pass of Glencoe, Eilean Donan castle, the road from Ullapool to Durness, the coast at ‘the top end’ and a boat trip to Canna. Top tip: Travel around. We’d investigated which area to spend most of our time, but concluded that the answer was all of it! Cautionary tale: In Spring, CalMac ferries are liable to change their sailing times at short notice. Our ferry was moved forward an hour and we only just made it on time. I wish I’d known... That it isn’t always raining…

How did Collette start? Jack Collette started the company in 1918 with a bus tour from Boston to Florida. Nearly 100 years later, we’re taking guests all around the world to all seven continents. Jack sold the company to Dan Sullivan Sr. and his brother-in-law Arthur McWilliam in 1962 and when Dan visited the New York World’s Fair in 1964, it was a turning point in the company and the perfect time to introduce escorted touring. So much has changed, but as the company thrives in its third generation of family ownership, the heart and soul of Collette remains the same. Early challenges? When Dan took over the company it was not without risk. He had six kids at home but he knew how to take the initiative. As his…

Essential Info Population: 30,000 Languages: Indonesian, but locals often speak Balinese. English is widely spoken. Timezone: GMT+8 International dialling code: +62 Visas: Depending on which airport visitors to Indonesia land at, guests staying up to 30 days will either be free to enter the country without a visa (Jakarta Airport, for example) or will be asked to pay for a visa on arrival (Bali Airport and others). To minimise any hassle, try to bring US$35 (£24) in exact cash. Currency: Indonesian Rupiah (IDR), currently IDR19,249 to the UK£. However, many businesses use US Dollars or Euros instead. Credit cards are widely accepted and Ubud’s central tourist information office has a reliable currency exchange. Tipping is not expected, but a 10% tip for good service is always welcome. Best viewpoint: Unusually,…

PHOEBE SMITH • EDITOR • Packing her tent ahead of another successful wild camping trip SEE PAGE 72 TOM HAWKER • PRODUCTION EDITOR • Looking to lend a helping hand to the plight of Borneo’s orangutans SEE PAGE 75 GARETH CLARK • SUB EDITOR/WRITER • Donning his Stetson and gorging on pancakes at the Calgary Stampede SEE PAGE 20 RHODRI ANDREWS • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT • Wondering whether Rio will bring Olympic-sized crowds this summer SEE PAGE 12…

COLOUR AND VISION: THROUGH THE EYES OF NATURE London, from 15 July www.nhm.ac.uk Natural History Museum, London, SW7 5BD. Tickets from £10.80; book online. In association with Wanderlust and Wild Frontiers, this exhibition shows how vital colour is to the natural world, giving insight to how it’s perceived and used to survive. Display specimens include rose-ringed parakeets and jewel beetles, and there’s also a prize draw to win a £5,000 Holi festival trip to India. GLOBETROTTERS CLUB Chester, 16 July www.chesterglobetrotters.co.uk Grosvenor Museum, Chester, CH1 2DD. Doors open at 1pm. £3. To book tickets, email chesterbranch@globetrotters.co.uk Linda White chats about female solo travellers, while David Gregson divulges tales of mucking in with the Maasai on safari in Tanzania. ADVENTURE TRAVEL FILM FESTIVAL London, 12–14 August www.adventuretravelfilmfestival.com Mill Hill School, The…

Natasha Preston, marketing manager at Exodus Travels, explored Svalbard on a trip with wildlife experts Paul Goldstein and Mark Carwardine. She shares her tips on visiting Norway’s Arctic archipelago… Pick the right shiP: Go for a smaller expedition vessel (around 100 passengers). Not only do they minimise the impact on Svalbard’s fragile surroundings, but they’re designed to operate in polar regions – unlike the average cruise liner – which means you get lots of landings. Magic MoMents: My expedition’s main goal was to spot polar bears. With no fixed itinerary, it led to some wild encounters, from observing a female bear and her two cubs to the drama of Diskobukta, where we watched Arctic foxes picking off kittiwake. The most surprising moment was watching a blue whale swim alongside us…

• Those prone to chest troubles should arrange for flu immunisation before travel. However, these shots are usually only available during the winter in the UK. • Some people wear smog masks; this is definitely worth considering if you plan cycling or walking a great deal in a polluted city. • Smokers are at an increased risk of chest infections in polluted areas – try to quit or at least cut down. • Think about what health problems you have had in the past – including during childhood – and ask your GP if you think you might need any ‘just in case’ medicines.…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Beijing (China); Tibet (Lhasa) Population: 1.4 billion (C) 3.2 million (T) Language(s): Mandarin is China’s official language. In Tibet, different languages and dialects are spoken, but Central Tibetan is the most common in Lhasa. Time: GMT+8 International dialling code: +86 Visas: UK nationals need a visa to enter mainland China. Make an appointment to visit the China Visa Application Service Centre (visaforchina.org) in London, or simply turn up at the Manchester or Edinburgh centres. You can also apply by post. The embassy recommends applying one month prior to travel. An additional permit is needed for Tibet. For this, send a copy of your Chinese visa and passport to a licensed Tibet travel agency – UK tour operators can arrange this if needed. Entry regulations can change at…