Table of contents for April 2022 in Wilderness

Many people walk because of the personal benefits, but walking is also good for the planet when it’s our mode of transport. Leaving the car at home and walking – to work, to school, to socialise – lowers your carbon footprint and has a positive impact on climate change. Right now, the Government is working on an Emissions Reduction Plan that will help New Zealand meet its pledge under the 2015 Paris Agreement: to halve greenhouse gas emissions by 2030, reduce them to net-zero by 2050 and limit global warming to 1.5°C. Transport is New Zealand’s second-largest greenhouse gas emitter. Some comes from freight; however, as a nation we’re hugely dependent on private car use. One of the plan’s goals is to reduce people’s reliance on cars and support walking,…

To get to the Routeburn Track, we’d have to pass a sleeping giant: Matau, kidnapper and en-trapper of beautiful Māori maiden Manata, and whose scorched-yet-still-beating heart is considered by Ngāi Tahu to be responsible for the extraordinary rise and fall of the waters within Whakatipu Waimāori / Lake Wakatipu. Journeying from Tāhuna-Queenstown, our waka (shuttle) would skirt the length of Matau’s resting body before eventually crossing Te Awa-Whakatipu / Dart River, and arriving at Routeburn Shelter. It’s little exaggeration to say the Route-burn really is all things to all people; if diversity of whenua is your waka, you will find it here. Alpine buttercups feature along with goblin forest, mountain tarns, cascading water – so much water – schist rock (a tenacity test) and a scenic up-and-over at Tarahaka-Whakatipu /…

The word ‘pass’ (nōti in Māori) has an evocative meaning for most trampers. There’s the physical meaning of crossing a mountain range, but also the more metaphorical sense of crossing from one world into another. On the approach to a pass, you experience growing anticipation of what lies on the far side, mixed with the uncertainty of the difficulties that may lurk in the unknown beyond. Although many ranges bear differing characteristics from one side to the other, the contrast between west and east is particularly strong in Kā Tiritiri o te Moana / Southern Alps. While the east often boasts drier, more open conditions, and most likely beech forest, the west features confined gorges, tangled forest and usually wetter, wilder conditions. Curiously, very few landmarks named ‘pass’ exist in…

THE TRACK BEGINS in the Montgomery Park Scenic Reserve at the eastern end of Te Ara Pātaka and immediately goes up a steep and rocky former riverbed through native forest, before emerging onto the vast hilltop farmlands. Remain alert here and watch your footing for rocks and tree roots, while also enjoying the viewpoints along the way. After just 10min an impressive 2000-year-old totara measuring 8.5m wide is reached. Stunning views across Banks Peninsula await once out of the reserve, as the track continues through farmland toward the first peak of two along this section of Te Ara Pataka, with a gentle climb up to Mt Sinclair (841m). From Mt Sinclair, the track continues along a ridge towards Mt Fitzgerald (826m). On a clear day, this section of track presents…

Thank you to all who entered this year’s photo competition. It’s been amazing to see the places – mountains, huts, forests – you have all been visiting, not to mention the incredible encounters many of you have had with native wildlife. If readers ever need extra motivation to get outside and go for a tramp, enjoying the photos shown on these pages should do the trick. We’d like to especially thank our sponsor Panasonic which has supplied the prizes to our winning photographers. Campsite on Hump Ridge Photographer: Thomas Girard Thomas took this photo on Hump Ridge and it shows Lake Poteriteri in the distance. “It was such an amazing feeling to camp on the heights of Fiordland,” Thomas said. Judges’ comments Alistair Hall: This is an instantly engaging scene…

What’s your advice for walking Te Araroa? There is so much information out there that I tend to tell people not to plan too much. I really like to encourage people to go with the flow of it. It's not a huge undertaking, but can be a life-changing experience. What are the gear needs when walking the trail? It's always good to be familiar with your gear before starting, especially your sleeping setup and cooking system. IF PEOPLE ARE ON THE FENCE ABOUT DOING THE TA, I REALLY URGE THEM TO GO FOR IT, TAKE THE PLUNGE. And don’t be afraid to spend up a bit and get the best options for your raincoat and tent. In New Zealand, you need equipment that’s durable and will stand up to our…

Te Araroa Trail walker Victoria Bruce Sleep system I sleep cold and love the feel of a warm sleeping bag, so it’s taken a while to get used to my Sea to Summit women’s Flame II which has a comfort rating of 2°C. It weighs 500g and is warm enough when paired with a Sea to Summit Thermolite Reactor Liner. It squashes down to a tiny size and quickly lofts when unpacked. I’m also using a Sea to Summit UltraLight insulated sleeping mat. I like to sleep on my front or my side, so this thin 440g pad works well. Walking POLES My Komperdell-Explorer Compact Titanal hiking poles weigh 220g each. JACKET I wanted a durable and lightweight jacket so opted for a Patagonia Torrentshell 3L which has kept me…

FILL High-density open-cell foam, down-insulation or synthetic-insulation are the warmest mattresses. Air-filled mats are the coolest, but also the lightest. Antimicrobial treatments will prevent fungal and bacterial growth inside the mat, caused by moist breath (from inflating the mattress). Foam-filled sleeping mats are die-cut or horizontally cored to reduce their weight. INFLATION Foam-filled mats are self-inflating, drawing air in as the mat regains its unrolled shape, but they may require a few puffs to reach the desired firmness. Synthetic and down-filled mats will come with a pump sack to ensure moisture from your breath doesn’t get inside. The easiest way to use these is to hold the pump sack 30cm from your face and blow into it, then force the air into the mattress. Air-filled models only need your lungs…

Anne Henley lives on Australia’s Sunshine Coast, but calls herself a QueeNZlander. A deep family history has seen Henley visit New Zealand countless times, usually with one thing in mind: walking. Growing up on the edge of the bush in Sydney, Henley was on the move from a young age. “My mother remembers me crawling off in pursuit of our two red setter dogs, out the back gate and into the bush. She would watch me until she couldn’t see my nappy anymore.” However, Henley’s lifelong love of walking was in danger of being snuffed out prematurely by chronic hip pain. In December 2020, she had a hip replacement, which she says has been life changing. “The Walk1200km challenge came up at about the time I was starting to walk…

“RAKIURA IS IN A PRECARIOUS POSITION NOW. WE NEED TO BE CAREFUL TO NOT GIVE AWAY OUR UNIQUE CHARACTER IN HOPE OF A QUICK DOLLAR.” Perhaps his destiny really was written in his name. Rakiura Herzhoff had been living in Europe and elsewhere in Aotearoa for a number of years. But he was born and raised on Rakiura/ Stewart Island – and the island he was also named after was calling him back. “The love I feel for this island is what drives me to be part of its future,” he says of his decision to return in 2016. “I probably didn’t have the experience or knowledge to know how to be engaged with the future of a place before I came back to live here.” Herzhoff – also known…

Māori use pepeha to locate ourselves in time, space and cosmos in a way that acknowledges past, present and future. It’s an affirmation of who we are and where we come from, resounding back through ancestral generations to our creation stories and forwards through our descendants. References to specific places and land features act as anchors and enablers of whanaungatanga (kinship connections) with whānau (family members) and whenua (land-embedded ancestors like Aoraki).…

County Stream is the largest tributary of the Waitaha River – a wild and rugged valley in Westland. It receives few visitors, mainly trampers seeking a remote wilderness experience or climbers attempting Mt Evans. Clearview Spur separates the County from Moonbeam Torrent and can be used as a route in and out of the valley. After spending a night in County Stream Hut, we used Canary Creek to access the steep tussock faces of Clearview Spur opposite the hut. These faces are very steep near the top and the route should only be attempted in fine, dry conditions. As we reached the crest of the spur, we stopped to admire an amazing view of Mt Evans (2620m) and The Red Lion (2444m). Mt Evans was first climbed in 1934 by…

THE 800HA Miramar Peninsula lies at the south-eastern end of Te Whanganuia-tara/Wellington City. Once an island, its rocky coastline, sweeping beaches, steep cliffs and small pinnacles and caves reflect the geological influence from two severe earthquakes that raised the isthmus to form the peninsula. The Eastern Walkway traverses the main ridge from Tarakena Bay in the south to the Pass of Branda. The walkway was a project by the Eastern Suburbs Lions Club and the Wellington City Council, and was opened 1982. It’s been rerouted and upgraded since then and passes mainly through regenerating native forest. Along the way are excellent views of the peninsula, the harbour entrance and Cook Strait. Native birds include tūī, pīwakawaka, tauhou / waxeye, kōtare / kingfisher and kororā / little blue penguin. Due to…

Jack and I weren’t talking. After nearly 2000km together on Te Araroa, I threw my hands up and walked away. It had been a bad morning after a poor night’s sleep in a crammed Blue Lake Hut. I had lost an important piece of kit; one-half of my hut sandals. After an hour of searching amidst bodies slumbering and others hunched over cooking pots, we left an hour late, hurrying to beat the impending weather – persistent rain, high winds and low visibility. The morning’s frustrations were compounded by perpetual tiredness. Resentment boiled over; a fight became inevitable. Words hung as thick as the clouds brewing over Rotomairewhenua / Blue Lake, our moods reflective of the weather. I scurried away from the lake towards Waiau Pass, increasing my pace, creating…

HERE are some things you need to consider before continuing with your trip based on recent weather and the forecast for during and after the trip. Before the trip How has recent weather affected the area where you’re planning on tramping? Slips and mud: If there has been recent heavy rain there may be slips. This is particularly important if you intend crossing known slips or to go along narrow cliffside tracks. Slips may mean you have to turn back, change your route, or camp instead of reaching a hut. If you are able to cross a slip face or go around it, consider if all your group will be up to doing so. If returning the same way, will you still be able to go across or go around…

THERM-A-REST AIRHEAD PILLOW $89.99 (REGULAR) Inflatable core with synthetic-fill top and brushed exterior, baffled air chamber for stability and loft, machine washable polyester cover. 158g. www.ampro.co.nz THERM-A-REST AIRHEAD LITE PILLOW $69.99 (REGULAR) Ultralight pillow can stow inside a pocket, 10cm of air padding, stretch fabric for customised firmness. 58g. www.ampro.co.nz SEA TO SUMMIT AEROS PREMIUM PILLOW FROM $64.99 Brushed 50D polyester stretch knit face fabric for soft hand feel, synthetic fill between pillow case and TPU bladder, curved internal baffles cradle the head, secures to any Sea to Summit sleeping mat. 79g. www.southernapproach.co.nz KLYMIT PILLOW X $49.95 Self-centreing X design positions and cradles the head, inflates in one-two breaths, ultra compact stows into a pocket. 55g. www.outfitters.net.nz…

FEATURES: This is MSR’s proven classic stove system with some modifications that allow use of canister fuel (butane/propane), unleaded petrol or white spirits (white gas) fuels. Kerosene can also be used. The leg/support assembly for the stove has been redesigned for easier maintenance. It’s more stable than earlier models. 5/5 CONSTRUCTION: This stove upholds MSR’s reputation for building reliable gear that can be taken just about anywhere. It’s strong, well made and field serviceable. The current iteration of the pump assembly has been criticised by some reviewers for being less strong than its predecessors, but I have been using one for a couple of years and have no complaints. 4/5 POWER: Running white spirits, the Whisperlite Universal will boil one litre of water in 3.5 minutes, or 3.75 minutes with…

REPAIR WORK BEGINS ON HEAPHY TRACK Work on repairing damage to the storm-ravaged Heaphy Track has begun, although through-trips remain off the cards. DOC closed the track in February after torrential rain swept through the West Coast and the 147m-long Heaphy River suspension bridge was written off. The Gunner River bridge was also damaged, the Pitt Creek bridge washed away and there was a slip on Mackay Hill. The track has since been partially reopened for return trips from Golden Bay and the West Coast, but the section between James Mackay and Heaphy huts is likely to remain closed for several months. Work began in March to salvage the Heaphy Bridge for parts that can be used in a replacement bridge and to clear the site, said Suvi van Smit,…

Our North Island retail partner is offering a $100 gift voucher. To win, tell us where in Auckland you can find Living Simply. The Mountain Trainer Lite is a nimble, alpine approach shoe for hikers who like to pick up the pace in any terrain. To win, tell us which track you’d most like to use these shoes on. We have two pairs of merino socks to give away. To win, tell us how many km you’ve walked so far. Our South Island retail partner is offering a $100 gift voucher. To win, tell us the web address of Further Faster. Email entries with ‘the prize’ as the subject line to: walk1200km@lifestylepublishing.co.nz…

BUCKLED BY earthquakes, riven by rifts, wrested asunder by the shifting continental plates, it’s no wonder that New Zealand’s crumpled terrain has resulted in a myriad of waterfalls. One of the more striking but little-known ones lies in the heart of an extensive block of native forest in the King Country: Tawarau. Although Tawarau Falls is not particularly high (25m), it makes up for it by its unusual shape and position. Near the drop-off, the Tawarau River swirls through a limestone gorge, which narrows where the waterfall cascades through a fissure in a limestone bluff, splaying into a wide apron. A large, colourful overhang nearby gives the whole scene a grand appearance. The Tawarau Falls Loop Track makes a worthwhile half-day circuit. Take notice of the access of Appletree Road…

THERE ARE few ‘forest sanctuaries’ and those that exist have often been designated due to conservation activism. A trip into Zekes Hut takes in the Hihitahi Forest Sanctuary, between Waiouru and Taihape. Park on the eastern side of SH1 where a DOC sign stands. There’s room only for a few cars and be careful not to block the farmer’s gate. From here, take the well-marked Hihitahi Forest Sanctuary Track across farmland, over a small stream on the Hihitahi Swingbridge and avoid some slightly swampy land to the south-east. Ensure you have picked up further markers, including a large orange triangle where the track leads into the bush on the northern side of a stream draining from just north of Hihitahi peak. A stile indicates where the forest sanctuary’s boundary begins.…

THE last time I ventured into this neck of the woods, the track was in a terrible state of disrepair alongside the Crooked River. Back then, I had made a vow: never again would I battle through dense West Coast bush along the banks of twisting, falling rivers. Yet here I was with my friend Malcolm driving down Nelson Creek Road into the backblocks near Lake Haupiri. The memories of past trauma temporarily forgotten as we negotiate dusty gravel roads past paddocks full of cows and fields full of crops headed for Gloriavale. We try not to maim free-range children as we park at the commune’s headquarters and, at the office, sign the visitor’s book. All this before an hour’s walk along a private 4WD road to O’Shanessy Creek, where…

It was weird being on a bus without a backpack and walking poles, without smelling like some rotting piece of fruit. It was a new experience after four and a bit months of walking along the squiggle of Te Araroa Trail. Through the window, I could see two men stopped by someone in the street. I could tell in an instant they were TA thru-trampers: dishevelled hair, beards long and scraggly. Their clothes ripped and grubby, hanging off their stick-like bodies, two sizes too big. Yet their unkempt and emaciated figures were full of strength and energy, and they bounded away from the stranger, backpacks bulging, walking poles clacking on the sidewalk. They were the trail. It sang in their hearts and seeped from their pores. Not long ago, that…

It’s never a good idea to pack your backpack for the first time an hour before starting a six-month tramp. Bits of kit lay littered around me on the Airbnb floor. Various sizes and colours of dry bags, ropes, straps, repair kits, gear instructions, two sleeping bag liners (one for winter, one for summer), three sizes of travel towel, two pairs of gloves (thermal and waterproof), clothes, eight days’ food, personal locator beacon, foot cream. So much other stuff, plus a foldable plastic kitchen sink. My eyes moved from the gear to the tiny 38l backpack. How was it all going to fit in there? I squeezed and crammed, pushed and stuffed and still the top wouldn’t close. I emptied everything back onto the floor and started again. This time…

IN this recipe, the cherry tomatoes are cooked until their skins burst. This method creates a silky sauce of sweet tomato juices with olive oil, balsamic and oregano which is perfect for pouring over pasta. If not using the anchovies, make sure to add some salt to the tomato sauce. Profile Serves: 4 Time: 30min Cost: $20 Ingredients Salt Cracked black pepper Olive oil 400g pasta 1 lemon, rind peeled or zested 5 cloves garlic 2 punnets cherry tomatoes 4 tsp fresh (or 2 tsp dried) oregano, plus extra for garnish 100g tin anchovies in olive oil (optional) 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 zucchinis Walnuts/nut sprinkle Parmesan to garnish Method Boil a big pot of salted water and cook the pasta according to packet instructions. Drain, retaining about one cup…

In After Dark, you mention being given a bat detector and registering a bat through it as ‘the moment this book was born’. Tell us about that. I’ve always loved the night, but as you grow up and become an adult, life becomes busy and you forget those lovely moments you had as a child in nature. One evening, I had this bat monitor in front of me and it pinged to say there was a bat above me and it was completely unexpected. I knew there were bats in the Waitākere Ranges but did not know they were on our little 10-acre block. When I looked up and saw that bat, it was a heart-stopping moment. I wanted to connect to its world, and it was a sudden memory…