Table of contents for September 2016 in Wallpaper

SARAH MOWER Writer Mower is one of the fashion industry’s most respected and influential figures. Since winning a Vogue talent writing contest in 1979, she has been The Guardian’s fashion editor and worked for most major fashion titles. A relentless supporter of young designers, in 2009 she was appointed the British Fashion Council’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent and co-chair of the BFC NewGen committee. She surveys the future of the fashion show for us on page 147. STAS KOMAROVSKI Photographer Moscow-born Komarovski emigrated to the US at the age of ten. He later moved to New York to learn photography and, after a few years of freelancing, he became Steven Meisel’s first assistant. He shot this month’s fashion and lighting story (page 228): ‘My digital tech told me after the…

The new sleeve The maximalism movement that’s been sweeping fashion for the past few seasons has taken hold of the sleeve for A/W16. At Moncler Gamme Rouge, Giambattista Valli’s gauzy Swiss folk blouses had an elegant Victoriana vibe, inflated from above the elbow in ethereal silk voile. Ever the conceptualist, Junya Watanabe upscaled his to an avant-garde degree, while Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon toyed with a more subverted take on the smocked shirt, teaming their crisp cotton version with a patent pinafore, inspired by the anime character Sailor Moon fused with a naughty twist on the Japanese schoolgirl uniform. In Milan, Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni rolled out a collection of rounded proportions, in turn proposing a detachable, balloon-sleeved model for those not quite ready to commit to the season’s…

J SHIRT, £200; TROUSERS, £370, BOTH BY WOOYOUNGMI SHIRT, £240; TROUSERS, £285, BOTH BY DIESEL BLACK GOLD COAT, £1,695; JUMPER, £595; SHIRT, £765; TROUSERS, £625; SHOES, £750, ALL BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ust as women’s sleeves are inflating skywards, men’s are reaching for the ground. From Indian kurtas to Middle Eastern thobes, traditional tunics have been remixed with trailing sleeves and oversized proportions, first seen on Demna Gvasalia’s Vetements runway. At Wooyoungmi, Madame Woo and daughter Katie Chung’s petal-shaped sleeves furthered fashion’s gender fluid conversation, while the casting of female models foreshadowed their move into womenswear. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton’s talisman collection united a threadbare mandarin collar with a dropped hemline. This silhouette was also explored in lambskin at Jil Sander and heavy cotton twill at Diesel. Far from being…

Three esteemed brands are proving the power of fusing great design with handmade craftsmanship and customisation. Danish eyewear brand Lindberg allows its sustainably sourced water buffalo horn and titanium frames to be entirely personalised – from the nose bridge to the earpieces – for maximum comfort. British stalwart Dunhill’s made-toorder crocodile belly ‘Brook’ briefcase, named after the Mayfair street, is handcrafted by leather artisans in its east London workshop. And Santoni’s ‘Kenneth’ mountain boot is similarly hand sewn – in this case, with soft nappa leather and lamb lining at its factory in Corridonia, Italy.…

Giorgio Armani created this pyramid-shaded lamp for his own design studio in 1982. When he launched his interiors arm Armani/Casa in 2000, the design became an integral part of his home collection and got its ‘Logo’ lamp moniker. To celebrate the autumn opening of the new Armani/Casa store in Milan, at the former De Padova HQ on Corso Venezia, the ‘Logo’ lamp has been photographed across the globe by Wallpaper* contributor Beppe Brancato in the homes or offices of leading figures in the design world. Among them are Vincenzo de Cotiis, John Pawson, Jaime Hayon, Vincent Darré, Roksanda Ilincic and Tadao Ando – not forgetting Wallpaper’s own Nick Vinson. The lamp is shown here in the Osaka office of Pritzker Prize-winning architect Ando, who completed the Armani/Teatro in Milan in…

CASE STUDIES Horological heroes of the hour Jewellers are generally wary of taking an horological turn, but Delfina Delettrez is uniquely suited to the task. Quality watch design – while not watchmaking – is a tricky, technical and uniquely collaborative pursuit. A curious mind and creative persistence are essential. Delettrez, a scion of the Fendi family, has chosen to launch her first timepiece, ‘Policromia’, under the keen eye of the Italian fashion house’s Timepieces division, rather than her eponymous jewellery label. Despite Apple’s move into watches, Swiss Made is still the horological benchmark and Fendi Timepieces has been producing fashion-savvy watches in Switzerland since 1988. The Delettrez collaboration is a smart move, edging both designer and maker onto the fringes of haute horlogerie. Like any good jeweller, Delettrez admits to…

This September, Bottega Veneta turns 50 and celebrates 15 years under the creative stewardship of Tomas Maier. In that time Maier has overseen the men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories and jewellery collections, a fully fledged home and furniture line, as well as the fit-outs of around 350 stores, a show space and showroom in Milan, a new base for the brand in Montebello Vicentino, in the Veneto region of Italy, and most recently a ‘maison’ in Beverly Hills, one of a new generation of the brand’s stores that embrace local architecture. The maison, opened on North Rodeo Drive this summer – its facade ‘nothing more than the name and three big arches’, in Maier’s words, and the playful shadow of a giant palm tree planted in front – takes its…

Hair: Gilles Degivry at Artlist using Bumble and Bumble Make-up: Carole Colombani at Jed Root Photography assistants: Maxime Leyvastre, Thibault Van Elslande Fashion assistant: Pia Abbar Hair assistant: Asen Lien Model: Valerija Kelava at Oui Management Casting: Elodie Yelmani at Creartvt Production: Anais at Kitten Paris Post production: Thomas Geoffray…

Hair: Louis Ghewy at The Book Agency Make-up: Linda Andersson using Chanel Le Rouge Collection No.1 and Le Lift V-Flash Manicurist: Saffron Goddard using Chanel Le Vernis in Ballerina and Body Excellence Hand Cream Set design: Amy Stickland at Webber Set build: Cloud & Horse Photography assistants: Adam Kaniowski, Tom Skinner Digital operator: Bastian Jung Fashion assistants: Marianne Kakko, Lune Kuipers Set assistant: Jess Coleman Model: Sophia Friesen at Next Casting: Beth Dubin…

Marc Newson says he has probably spent around 20 years perfecting rolling luggage in his head, long before he was called in by Louis Vuitton to improve on its core products, for which it has been famous since 1854. The trunks come in three sizes and several style options that range from classic monogram to one of a rainbow of seven colours, including yellow, orange and red. (We can also exclusively reveal a natural calf leather version, pictured here.) Newson has substantially increased packing space by relocating the anodised aluminium extendable cane to the outside, creating a 36-litre capacity, an increased internal volume of 15 per cent, and reduced the weight to a mere 3kg. He has moulded the frame in an elastic, shockproof mesh matrix of self-reinforced polypropylene composite,…

The sumptuously furnished, Peter Marino-designed House of Dior opened on London’s New Bond Street earlier this summer and is the first to display the new Dior Home collection. Creative director Isabelle Dubern was tasked with creating a range that reflects the DNA of the fashion house, while holding its own in a community that is increasingly as discriminating about the quality of the accessories that top its table as trim its frames. ‘I imagined what could be a Dior house today, with its furniture, its art, its objects, and I built the collection by dreaming it and enlisting artists and artisans who understood Dior’s codes,’ Dubern says. The roll-call of contributors is a mix of established designer and artists, such as India Mahdavi, alongside younger design-world mavericks, including glass artist…

Launched in Lecce, in southern Italy, in 2015, design brand Da a (which translates as ‘from to’) follows a simple principle: to create furnishings using the tools and techniques traditionally used to make heavy-duty machinery. With a growing collection of indoor and outdoor furniture and accessories designed by a healthy roster of young Italian designers, the brand experiments with old manufacturing processes to bring to life new design ideas. Its latest collection includes the ‘Ring-O’ swing, a whimsical but technically accurate piece by Saverio Incombenti. Featuring a hand-welded, curved metal frame, the swing is essentially composed of two intersecting metal rings suspended by a jute rope. The Milanese industrial designer drew inspiration from his penchant for geometric shapes, resulting in a minimal nest that offers the body a few moments…

London’s St James’s has traditionally been seen as the stiffer, stuffier, more masculine mirror of its neighbour, the glitzy, ritzy Mayfair. It is home to barbers, gentlemen’s clubs and shirtmakers, and its borders are marked by such storied institutions as The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason, and Clarence House. Until recently, the area’s eastern edge was little more than a rat run for black cabs, but now it’s playing catch up. Dover Street Market transferred from Mayfair to Haymarket this March, and the area’s newest addition is St James’s Market, incorporating restaurants, retail and offices. A partnership between the Crown Estate and Oxford Properties, the new complex was designed by Make Architects as a set of contemporary, sinuous structures framing a central square. The Crown Estate also worked with cultural strategists…

R oberto Vedovotto likes to think of Kering Eyewear as a startup, a lean, mean entrepreneurial upstart bringing innovation and disruption to a business dominated by a few too-powerful players. But if this is a startup, it’s an unusually smart one. No Ikea trestle-tables and stickerplastered laptops here, none of the scruffy urgency of Silicon Valley or Shoreditch. Vedovotto’s startup is backed – to what percentage has not been disclosed – by luxury goods giant Kering Group (formerly known as Gucci Group) with a 20-strong brand stable that includes Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney. And its new inside-butoutside eyewear division has suitably glamorous quarters in Villa Zaguri, a smartly restored Renaissance pile just outside Padua. Less than half an hour’s drive west of Venice, this…

Sir Paul Smith has built a global empire and one of Britain’s most successful fashion brands through hard work, creativity and making the ordinary extraordinary. He takes the same approach to his favourite dish. While resolutely British, it is anything but ordinary and is tricked up with a twist – in this case, the world’s most famous sourdough and Echiré butter. ‘I’m not much of a cook but I do love classic, simple dishes. My recipe for beans on toast is exactly that. I’m close to the Poilâne family and always visit their bakery when I’m in Paris. They make the best bread in the world, so you start there and work up – perfect French butter combined with Heinz baked beans and a dash of HP sauce.’ It’s Paul…

The sharpest trends, trailblazers and sartorial triumphs THE NEW SLEEVE MODERN TAKES ON SLEEVES INFLATE BLOUSES TO CREATE VOLUME AND FEMININITY Award-winning London-based architectural practice Carmody Groarke has just completed its first house – a single-family home on the north-western edge of Highgate Wood in north London. Aiming to create something modern that would, at the same time, embrace the nearby woods, the firm’s work on this landmark emphasised context, views and orientation. ‘In a suburb of typical Edwardian detached houses, a new home of different character was always going to be treated with suspicion,’ say the architects. ‘The form of the house was carefully composed to respond to the proportions of other houses on the street, and brick was chosen as the dominant material to give it coherence and…

This season, Milan was swarming with sumptuous velvet accoutrements. Mrs Prada liberally draped her modern-day vagabond in the plush pile from elaborately embroidered sheaths to traveller’s capes, platformed heels and saddle-shaped bags, finished with antique gold hardware. At Salvatore Ferragamo, the show heaved with opulent optical patterns, which swirled all the way down to tri-colour velvet ankle boots. Shoe showman Giuseppe Zanotti’s 2016 vision walked a more classical road: ‘I’ve lightened the rich texture with an elegant ankle strap and a slim heel for a sophisticated take on the trend,’ he says of the season’s new, subtly rounded toe. Meanwhile, over in the States, Frame’s second ready-to-wear line, Zac Posen’s sophomore Brooks Brothers’ womenswear collection, 3.1 Phillip Lim and DKNY all succumbed to the plush fabric’s lustrous allure that shines…

Oscar Niemeyer’s sinuous lines hit the fashion headlines in May when Nicolas Ghesquière presented Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2017 collection within the architect’s saucer-shaped Niterói Contemporary Art Museum in Rio de Janeiro. But Brazilian designer Pedro Lourenço already had Niemeyer in mind when working on La Perla’s A/W16 offering. Lourenço’s collection for the luxury lingerie brand sought to reflow the curvilinear shapes of the iconic modernist – nicknamed the ‘king of curves’ – into one hell of a swimsuit. With a Zamak alloy underwire, and the juxtaposition of transparent nude tulle and black Lycra panelling creating sweeping freeform cutouts, this sensual swimsuit could also be worn as underwear. laperla.com FRAME WORK There’s always intrigue in Kim Mee Hye’s designs. Her new collection of architecturally considered earring designs, called ‘Foyer’, is ‘more…

‘Grayson Perry got in touch,’ recalls Erdem Moralioglu of the email he received inviting him to join the Royal Academy’s committee, an honour that puts him in the company of Ron Arad, Thomas Heatherwick and David Bailey. ‘I’d met him at the Turner Prize a few years ago, but didn’t really know him. So yes, I was thrilled.’ The London-based fashion designer has a serious art habit, and word of it is now spreading. Earlier this year, he guest-edited the first Sotheby’s Contemporary Curated sale in London. He began collecting eight years ago, and his latest acquisition is a Tracey Emin watercolour bought from White Cube during Art Basel Hong Kong. Scanning his personal art inventory (he’s currently renovating his London home, so much of his collection is in storage),…

For stockists, see page 240 Set design: Janina Pedan at The Magnet Agency Hair: Alexander Soltermann using Bumble and Bumble Make-up: Nicola Moores-Brittin at Coffin Inc using MAC Cosmetics Manicure: Saffron Goddard Photography assistants: Katrin Backes, Andrew Moores Fashion assistant: Lune Kuipers Set design assistant: Jess Coleman Model: Wanessa Milhomem at Elite…