Table of contents for #209 - June-July 2020 in Threads Magazine

CORRESPON DENCE RETU RNS For more than 30 years, I have been an avid reader of Threads. I have learned so much from all aspects. I was disappointed not to see the Letters department in #208 (April/May 2020). The letters represent input from ordinary sewers like myself. I hope that you will continue to publish letters from your readers in the future. —Sharry F. Pollock, via email Dear Sharry, I am happy to say letters are back. A few issues ago, we ran into a dry spell and did not receive enough letters on varied topics to fill the department. In upcoming issues we are looking into including comments and questions from social media, which has become a more prolific source of feedback for us.—SMc THIMBLES DEMYSTI FIED Thank you,…

Double-knit fabric is made of two connected layers, created on a knitting machine with two sets of needles. The result is a textile that is wrinkle-resistant, doesn't ravel or stretch out of shape, and has two faces—or right sides. It is heavier and sturdier than single, or jersey, knits. Known by other names, such as ponte, this stable fabric is easy to cut and sew. Its desirability is often dependent on its fiber content: Most sewers today agree that polyester double knits are unpleasant to sew and wear, while those with natural fiber content are quickly becoming wardrobe staples. The 100 percent wool version lends a structured look that works for pants, skirts, dresses, and cardigans. It is unlikely to roll or run at the edges like other knits. The…

Over the centuries, kimono have been made from specialty silk, linen, and cotton fabrics that were developed to suit Japan’s climate. The superb weaving, dyeing, and design techniques used to create the kimono offer fabrics of unrivaled beauty. Adventurous sewers can use vintage kimono as a valuable resource. They contain a good amount of fabric that can be transformed into yardage to use in sewing new garments or projects. Today, kimono are available in import and antique stores, on the Internet, and occasionally in consignment and thrift shops. They may have stains or holes, but there is usually enough fabric to make a simple garment. Beware of larger stains, which are difficult to cut around—they are often decades-old and impossible to remove. I’ll explain how to work with a kimono’s…

If you’re investing time in sewing clothes to fit your figure, it’s worthwhile to employ smart, durable construction techniques. In Threads #208 (June/July 2020), I described the basic method for adjusting a standard-sized pattern for a fuller figure. Once you’ve gotten your pattern to fit correctly, you can build in some give where you need it and create stronger seams where there may be strain during wear. You don’t have to default to knit fabrics to get the comfort you desire—although knits are an important part of most contemporary wardrobes. The methods I show on the following pages work for any size garment or figure but are especially helpful in clothing for plus-size women. As the body bends, moves, or sits, fullness can shift. This causes waistbands to dig in…

Whether in ruffles, at skirt waistlines, or in the caps of puffy sleeves, gathers are used in subtle or dramatic ways to add volume, shape, and interest. There’s nothing lovelier when they’re beautifully formed, and there’s nothing worse than poorly made gathers. They can spoil an otherwise carefully sewn garment. A properly made set of gathers has uniform fabric folds, evenly aligned and distributed along the attachment seam. There are no unwanted tucks or pleats, and no folds are noticeably wider or narrower than the others. To create nice gathers, take the time to apply some extra steps. They are not difficult, but you’ll find they make all the difference in the quality of your results. Your garments will look better than professional—they’ll display the beauty of truly couture work.…

MARLA KAZELL (“Refine Your Patterns,” p. 40) says, “My students taught me that they each learn in different ways. Most are visual learners, while others need to hear the words. If I see a confused look on their faces, I’m happy to review the details, demonstrate a technique, or explain in another way until I’m sure they understand completely.” Marla has created custom clothing for clients for 40 years. She teaches sewing and fitting techniques in the greater Portland, Oregon, area and across the country. Follow her on Instagram @MarlaKazell. MarlaKazell.com PAMELA LEGGETT (“Relax with Linen Knits,” p. 64) says, “More than 30 years ago, when I first started teaching, I was showing a group of students how to turn a corner in a waistband. I had always used the…

There’s more to learn online Serge knits smoothly: Learn how to use your serger’s r’s differential feed to control stretchy fabrics, as in the knit dress at left, in this video supplement to “Relax With Linen Knits,” p. 64. Gorgeous zippers: See 360-degree views of the designs from “Zippers in Sheer Garments,” p. 58. With the story’s techniques, learn to hide the closure or flaunt it, as at right. Kimono information: Expert June Colburn shares her resources for finding out more about the history of beautiful kimono like those in “Refashioned Kimono,” p. 34. New video Double-binding seam technique Learn an attractive, streamlined alternative to a basic bound edge. This seam finish works on tops, dresses, and other garments. Start it as a standard binding encircling a neckline, then join it…

Typically the go-to fabric for towels and bathrobes, terrycloth has desirable characteristics for a variety of garments. Standard ter-rycloth has a looped surface on both sides. French terry has a knit side and a looped side. It is soft to the touch and has a moderate level of stretch. Stretch terry is softer and more pliable. It is knit on one side and looped on the other. While terrycloth is typically 100 percent cotton, stretch and French terry are often a blend of cotton and spandex, and many French terry fabrics are made from bamboo. Terrycloth is available in different weights. Lightweight ter-rycloth, from 9 ounces to 13 ounces per square yard, can be used for light beach cover-ups, while heavier weights, from 16 ounces to 21 ounces, can be…

Over several decades of making custom clothing, I’ve learned a lot about garment fitting. Many of my favorite techniques were taught by Roberta Carr and published in her book, Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing (Palmer/Pletsch, 1993). From her, I learned to make some small changes that better accommodate a body’s curves and help a garment hang smoothly over the figure. These refinements don’t appear substantial on the pattern, but I have found that they make a difference in how a garment looks when worn. They’re easy to accomplish, even for a beginner, and I encourage you to try them. They can take your sewing up a level and give you more to be proud of when you wear your garments. Add a curve to straight seams Commercial patterns often…

Zippers and garments made of sheer fabrics seem at odds with each other. We need to get in and out of our clothing, yet we don’t want to break up a delicate sheer panel with an obvious zipper. I’ll share two ways to deal with this challenge. The first is to camouflage the zipper and its corresponding seam allowances. The other is to highlight the zipper as a design statement. This calls for purchasing a decorative zipper and incorporating it into the overall garment design. Both methods require planning and an unconeach can be the perfect finishing touch to a special garment. ventional approach to the zipper installation, but Camouflage an invisible zipper In sheer fabrics, an invisible zipper’s tape and the fabric’s seam allowances may show on the garment’s…

My hope is that, by the time you receive this issue, we are on the way back to normal routines. As I write this letter in late March, it feels impossible to avoid thoughts of the coronavirus, when it is all I see on the news and it has separated our close-knit team (the Threads staff is working from home to finish this issue). What I can do is focus on the positive, as so many of us are doing at the moment. There are inspirational efforts under way in the sewing community right now, and I hope we can all look back at how sewers rallied with drives to make face masks, other projects, contests, and online events and conversation. Our mutual interest can keep us occupied and help…

Shisha embroidery is the technique of stitching a border around small pieces of metal or glass to attach them to fabric. It originated in Southeast Asia, and examples of shisha embroidery can be found from as far back as the 17th century. The name “shisha” comes from the Persian word for glass. The mirrors in shisha embroidery were thought to ward off the evil eye. Now, paillettes are an inexpensive and lightweight alternative to metal or glass mirrors, which makes creating shisha motifs easier. Following these simple instructions, you can add shisha embroidery to any garment or project you can stitch on. I’ll show you the basic attachment method, but you can build on the technique to create more complex motifs. The shisha stitch encloses the mirror or paillette behind…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern Deer and Doe: Sirocco Jumpsuit (Deer-and-Doe.com) This short-sleeve jumpsuit and romper will hug and highlight your curves. It has a surplice bodice, a 1-inch-wide neckline band, an inset waistband, and diagonal side pockets. The front waistline has tucks above and below the waist seam; the back has tucks above the waistline and darts below. The jumpsuit pulls up over the hips without a zipper. The illustrated instructions are complete, but pay attention to the right-and wrong-side tints, or you may sew the tucks backward, as we did in the sample garment. The pattern requires knits with at least 60 percent stretch, such as midweight jersey or…

Linen is a natural fiber spun from the cellulose inside the stalk of a flax plant. Woven linen fabrics are a favorite of many sewers, but that is not the only way linen fiber can be used. When knitted, it is transformed into a breathable, fluid, semisheer, fine-gauge fabric that is perfect for warm weather fashion. Linen’s natural slubs give this fabric an appealing, rich texture. Dyes permeate linen beautifully, and the colors can be soft and muted or vibrant and bold. Linen is most commonly blended in knits with spandex for recovery and body. However, it is also available in other blends. Common blends include linen/rayon/spandex, linen/cotton/spandex, and linen/polyester. Most linen knits are lightweight jerseys, although some midweight knits can be found. There are also openwork linen knits. When…

When you know how to sew, you can mend open seams and fallen hems easily with a bit of stitching. If you make your own clothes and save some fabric remnants, you can fix fabric that’s more substantially damaged. Stains that can’t be removed, and snags and tears that aren’t at seamlines, can be cut away and patched with an exact—or close—match. In decades past, small tears, burn holes, or moth holes could be rewoven, a technique in which a patch of fabric was woven into the damaged area to fill it. That specialty service is practically defunct today. I’ll show you an updated version that uses fusible products and matching fabric. If you have scraps from sewing the garment, you are in luck. If not, consider harvesting patches from…

Italian fashion of the 20th century has a reputation for exquisite fabrications, up-beat and contemporary style, and high-quality construction that ensures longevity. This Italian dress from 1969 was made when fine double knits were at the height of their popularity. Although its silhouette is simple, it features an unexpected machine-sewn appliqué that takes advantage of some of the best qualities of 100 percent wool double-knit fabric—including its resistance to raveling. This dress is more than 50 years old and the appliqué edges are still in excellent shape. Learn how to create appliquéd embellishments with wool double knit on p. 24.…