Table of contents for #195 - February-March 2018 in Threads Magazine

BECKY FULGONI (“Embellishments: Echo the print,” p. 22) says, “I am seeing velvet, lace, fur, sheers, and I am excited to figure out ways to use these wonderfully luxurious fabrics in my everyday wardrobe. I don’t have many formal or fancy occasions in my life, but the idea of making ‘everyday’ an occasion really appeals to me. Velvet sweats? Fur-trimmed denim? It will be fun to see where the idea takes me.” Garment sewing has been Becky’s creative outlet since she could reach the foot control of her mom’s Singer sewing machine. She lives in Michigan and blogs about her sewing at TBalloons.blogspot.com. KATHLEEN CHEETHAM (“The Low-Profile Pocket,” p. 36) says, “I love the abstract prints and vivid colors that are forecast for spring 2018. I’m planning a wrap dress…

Part of this timeless blouse’s charm is the hand embroidery, fashioned in No. 5 pearl cotton, and the coordinating hand-finished edges. The simplicity of the execution is fetching. The flattering round neckline and interestingly shaped sleeve hems (see the facing page and the back cover) are faced with bias strips of self fabric. When you choose this edge finish, the proper preparation of the bias strips is essential. That includes the right fabric choice, prewashing, and pressing the facing to a template. This last shaping step ensures a smooth, flat finish on any shape. Judith Neukam enjoys reverse-engineering vintage techniques and sharing what she discovers in the process. 1 Cut the bias strips. Use a plain-weave (not twill) fabric with a loose weave. The facing can be cut from matching…

Consider combining a beautiful knit fabric with your favorite woven pattern for a comfortable, stylish garment. I have developed a way to resize patterns designed for woven fabrics so they work successfully for knits. In technical pattern drafting there are complex formulas, but this is a streamlined application for the home sewer who is adjusting patterns for personal use. My simple-to-follow method uses the degree of stretch in your chosen knit as the basis for making a straightforward reduction to your pattern. This is the best of all worlds: You can use your favorite woven-fabric patterns for easy-to-sew and easy-to-wear knit clothes. In addition to their carefree wearability, knits make perfect travel clothes that are wrinkle resistant and washable. START WITH A PATTERN THAT FITS Patterns for knits are drafted…

The Japanese art of mending, called boro, is experiencing a resurgence. Originally, the quilting technique was applied to extend the life of ragged and tattered clothes and household items by sewing patches in place with sashiko, a simple running stitch. Typically sewn in a pattern of parallel lines, the overall sashiko design was unique to each item. Years of patching and repairing resulted in a one-of-a-kind garment or item that told a story. Boro never became popular with the upper class, but vintage examples are now a collectible art form. FASHIONABLE BORO The word boro comes from the Japanese word boroboro, which means something tattered or worn out. Japanese women used the boro technique to repair clothing and other items so they could be used from generation to generation. In…

When you’re making a garment, several layers come into play. Of those layers, some of the most vital have an undercover role. Interfacing is a textile used on the wrong side of fabrics in stressed areas such as facings, collars, and button plackets. It can give a garment section more body or strength and prevent it from losing its shape. You can’t see it from the outside, but interfacing plays a part in your garment’s performance. To new sewers, interfacing is mysterious. Beginner sewers may not realize that there is a world of interfacing varieties with amazing drape, hand, and durability. For experienced sewers, it is smart to refresh your understanding of the types and applications. Selecting the correct interfacing from the options at the fabric store or online shouldn’t…

The benefits of fiber-reactive dyes Q A project I am interested in making calls for fiber-reactive dyes. What makes these dyes so special, and when should I use them? —Sheila Patterson, Schaumburg, Illinois A Katrina Walker is an educator and designer who specializes in natural-fiber textiles and is the featured instructor in two classes available at TauntonWorkshops.com. She says: Fiber-reactive dyes create bright, colorfast hues on textiles. Before such dyes were invented, it was difficult to achieve vibrant, lasting color on cotton and other plant-based fibers. These fibers are hydrophilic, meaning they absorb water and swell. In doing so, they “let go” of dye, contributing to color fading. Fiber-reactive dyes react chemically with the molecules of textile fibers in an alkaline, water-based solution. This strong chemical bond (a covalent bond) means…

EDITOR’S NOTE Something to talk about Every year, we have a holiday party with a more-or-less successful craft project. We’ve bedazzled shoes, made beaded jewelry, and sewn scarves from silk sari yarn. Last year, as I was planning the gala afternoon event, I thought “I’ll make it a sewing party. We’ll bring our machines and work on projects!” There were about 10 of us: our editorial team and a few authors who live in the area. I collected extension cords and sturdy tables, booked the largest conference room, and gathered irons and ironing boards. The day of the party, we were like a moving crew as we unloaded sewing machines and rolled them into the building on hand trucks. After all the machines were plugged in and ready to go,…

I love to experiment with embellishment techniques. As a result, I have a closet filled with samples I’ve made of stitching, appliqué, stenciling, painting, quilting, color-blocking, beading—the list is endless. My goal is to apply these techniques to garments so that the adornment relates organically to the whole design. However, it can be a challenge to translate embellishment ideas into great garment designs. An approach I’ve found inspiring is to “echo” a fabric’s print. Here is the thought process I use to develop a successful echoed embellishment. REFLECT AND REPEAT First, look closely at your fabric. Study the fabric’s color, texture, and print. Choose features that can become a coherent design. I identify an element I’m drawn to and echo it to make a companion fabric. It is not an exact…

Many garments, even those that are semifitted or fitted, can be made better with a discreet in-seam pocket. I have a great one to share with you. I use this technique to add invisible, no-bulk pockets to my clients’ custom or ready-made skirts or pants with side and waistline seams. It’s easier to build the pockets into a garment during construction, but you also can add them to finished pieces. Inspired by a pant pocket from an expensive ready-to-wear line, this pocket is guaranteed to lie smoothly and neither pull open nor flare out. It adds functionality to a garment without disrupting the silhouette. This is not a fast and easy pocket, because getting it right involves precision cutting, notching, and a series of steps that include stitching, clipping, and…

Most of us who sew women’s pants struggle to get a great fit. There are so many variables in the body and the pattern that it’s difficult to decide where to focus the fitting work. In my experience with female clients and students, I’ve learned that getting the pattern’s front and back crotch curves to reflect the body is a crucial step, but it’s only part of the equation. I will give an overview of the process I use to fit pants, and then focus on how to correct the crotch curve fit. The method I use, working with a muslin marked with horizontal and vertical guidelines, makes fit problems easy to diagnose and solve. Follow my steps, and you’ll achieve a smooth and flattering fit that’s also more comfortable.…

During a recent online window-shopping spree, I discovered a skirt in a menswear-inspired fabrication that encapsulated some of my favorite style features: a flattering A-line silhouette enhanced with pleats and military-style details. Rather than contend with its nearly $1,800 pricetag, I decided to build some of its details into an existing skirt pattern. The key element that set this skirt apart was a peplumlike overskirt extending from the waistband to lower hip level, from side front to center back. I started with a gored skirt pattern with side-front and side-back seams and found it easy to add this feature, plus a generous knife pleat at each side-front seam. Follow along to see how I adapted McCall’s 6993, view B, to create the look. Carol J. Fresia is senior technical editor.…

As I perused the want ads, I saw a posting for a seamstress at a local women’s clothing manufacturer. It was the summer of 1982, and I was a graduate student in need of a pay-check. I knew how to sew from watching my mother, an accomplished self-taught seamstress and patternmaker. Her ability to make anything I could dream up turned me into a clotheshorse at a young age. Plus, I had done a bit of sewing myself. I mailed in my résumé, noting that I had been sewing since age 12. Within a few days, I got a call from the manufacturer’s patternmaker, who asked me to come to the warehouse for an interview. On the day of the interview, I entered the huge building where at least 100…

BEST TIP Make-and-bake underwire tips As a seamstress working with professional cheerleaders’ uniforms, I am always trimming underwires. I have tried a number of techniques for coating the underwires’ cut ends so they don’t damage the fabric or hurt the cheerleader. My last project was under a strict deadline, and I didn’t have time to apply the usual coatings. Then I had a light bulb moment. I thought to use oven-hardened polymer clay, such as Premo, Sculpey, or FIMO. I pinched a piece onto the cut wire end, smoothed it, and baked it for about six minutes. It took a short time to bake because it was such a small piece. I sanded down spots that weren’t as smooth as I liked. The best part was it stayed on the wire.…

With a luxurious hand and easy-care reputation, synthetic suede is a fantastic fabric choice, especially when you seek a sumptuous feel without bulk. Halston made it famous in the 1970s in his iconic shirtdresses and jackets. It is available in a range of weights and colors, prints, and embossed and perforated versions. Choose a lightweight type for drapey styles or a medium-bodied fabric for structured garments. Faux suede’s no-fray nature makes it wonderful for cutwork or appliqué. SYNTHETIC ORIGINS Faux suedes are made from microfiber polyester and a polyurethane binder. Some are constructed as a nonwoven fabric with a suedelike nap on one or both sides. Others have a woven or knitted base with a napped surface on one or both sides. Ultrasuede, a trademarked fabric developed by Toray in…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Petite options For knits Downloadable pattern Bootstrap Fashion: Front Drape Tunic 81989 (BootstrapFashion.com) This on-trend tunic by Yuliya Raquel features a scoop neck, a floating front overlay, raglan sleeves, and a separate hip band. Bootstrap Fashion patterns offer custom sizing: Input your measurements and the site’s program adjusts the pattern to fit. Included with each pattern are a spreadsheet with the various seam allowances and stretch gauges for selecting suitable fabrics. There are sewing instructions, but they are not illustrated. Our tester would have liked to see more detailed instructions and found that the notches on the neckband and neck edge did not align. Our staff seamstress suggests marking the neckline at…

Aserger, or overlock, machine can create consistent versions of many classic sewing-machine techniques. Just as specific sewing-machine presser feet are invaluable, sergers have specific feet to speed and improve your results. In “Part 1: Specialty Serger Feet,” Threads #194, Dec. 2017/Jan. 2018, I explained how to use the lace applicator foot and the ruffler foot on a standard serger. Now I’ll go into detail about using the versatile blind-hem foot and the handy elastic-application foot on a serger. These attachments are not limited in purpose, and it is fun and enlightening to explore their potential uses. The availability of specialty serger feet may depend on the your serger brand and model, and the feet for your machine may not match what is shown. I recommend checking the manufacturer’s website and…

Classic trousers are among those staple garments that work in every wardrobe. They can go from an office setting to dinner at a restaurant and from errands to the kids’ soccer games. A basic pants pattern that you can pull out any time you need to update your look is a good idea. (Find out more about fitting a slacks pattern in “Improved Pants Fitting,” p. 54.) It’s even better when you know how to revise that pattern to create new styles. There are many ways to adapt a simple pants pattern, including changing the leg shape or length and updating the pockets. Redesigning the waist treatment is another way, which can add style and can flatter your figure. I’ll show you how to make two of my favorite waist…

Designs weave in and out of fashion through the decades and sometimes even hundreds of years. The simple pullover style of this ensemble’s top has been worn for centuries, yet it is as pleasing today as it was in the 1930s when this example was made. You could easily wear this exact look while walking on the beach in Italy or shopping in town. Or, you could change the fabric to fluid black crepe, embroider it and a matching skirt with tone-on-tone thread, and wear the ensemble on New Year’s Eve. The top’s hand-sewn edge finish yields smooth curves with colorful topstitching. Learn more about this edging method on p. 20.…