Table of contents for August 2018 in Sunset

WELCOME TO THE FOURTH ANNUAL Sunset Travel Awards (page 47). And let me begin by acknowledging that what we’re talking about here is a privilege. My first job out of college was at a travel magazine in New York where the far-flung itineraries cost considerably more than my annual salary. In those days, I lived in a fifth-floor walk-up above a bread factory (the early-morning smell was fabulous; the resulting rodents, not so much), and my work felt like a portal into another existence, one of lavish hotel suites and town cars that whisked you to and from the airport. But at every budget, the benefit of travel is universal—its ability to bring you outside your comfort zone and teach you about landscapes and lives beyond your own. I thought of…

Six years ago, art photographer Mandy Mohler spent a week in northern Montana’s backcountry at a remote cabin just outside Glacier National Park. She was there to collaborate with two musicians on an album cover, but the 27-year-old couldn’t keep her eyes off the well-worn objects strewn about the two-room log structure. There was an axe with a red blade, an old tin coffeepot, a first-aid kit from the 1950s, a pair of dusty brown-leather hiking boots. Where some might have seen random castoffs, Mohler saw intriguing clues about explorers who found respite there over the years. Compelled, the Flathead Valley native lugged dozens of the most interesting artifacts to a bedsheet outside, photographing them in small groups. Later, she neatly assembled the individual shots into a complex photo collage,…

JUST TO THE NORTH OF THE California-Mexico border, amid the curling waves and cruiser bikes of San Diego, the ocean’s pull is magnetic—and the beachside taquerias and craft beers are first-rate. Yet there’s much more to this port city than a day at the shore. A contemporary Mexican sensibility channeled through nearby Tijuana populates design shops and animates the art scene, while homegrown restaurants put a spin on campfire cuisine. Perhaps the most unique aspect of all: an enthusiastic nerd culture that has skyrocketed thanks in part to the annual San Diego Comic-Con. So although you may find yourself joining the suntanned masses for a game of volleyball, what really defines this town right now is seeing how its various subcultures intersect. Don’t be surprised if your bartender is an…

This city’s passion for the outdoors extends from its sea-cliff trails to its boulder-strewn inland hills (all told, there are more than 42,000 acres of parks and preserves). That affection has started crossing into the great indoors, thanks to playful spaces that serve upscale meals with campfire style. At One Door North (onedoornorthsd.com), near the expansive Balboa Park, antler chandeliers, a hearty cheese-and-charcuterie picnic board, and canvas tents pitched over some of the tables blur the line between restaurant and “glampground.” Just south of Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve in coastal La Jolla, Farmer & The Seahorse (farmerandtheseahorse.com) has gone as far as placing a bookable Airstream in the middle of the space—though you don’t have to reserve that private dining room to enjoy the earthy plancha-seared baby beets during a weekday…

In North Park, about 7 miles inland from the beach, historic commercial buildings that once served a sleepy neighborhood have been reimagined, drawing crowds to the city’s newest epicenter of cool. 11 A.M. Start off with a honey-and-lavender latte from Communal Coffee (communalcoffee.com). Inside, you’ll also find Native Poppy (nativepoppy.com), an adorable pocket-size flower shop. 12 P.M. Hit up the carefully curated boutiques near the intersection of University Avenue and 30th Street, starting with Pigment (shoppigment.com) for Unison camp mugs, geometric jewelry, and an in-store terrarium bar. Then try Artelexia (artelexia.com) for vibrant Mexican art and decor, from vivid textiles to quirky piñatas. 1:30 P.M. Order a meaty (or vegan!) bowl of pho at newcomer Shank & Bone (shankandbone.com), where the dining room pops with floor-to-ceiling murals and bold primary colors. 3 P.M. Yep, North…

DIGITAL BONUS Find creative containers to house your plants and add style to the yard at sunset.com/pots.…

The Beaux Arts mansion and stunningly landscaped grounds that make up the Virginia Robinson Gardens (robinsongardens.org) in Beverly Hills are an escape on any given day—but it takes a garden party to truly bring them to life. At the 30th Annual Garden Tour and Showcase event on May 19, presented by the Friends of Robinson Gardens, designer and author Nathan Turner joined Sunset editor-in-chief Irene Edwards in hosting a table of stylish guests to celebrate the historic property’s preservation efforts.…

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK CALIFORNIA We hear you loud and clear: You love Yosemite, no matter what the season. Sunset reader Julian Siminski of Los Angeles, for example, recommends the “majestic” cross-country skiing through the valley in December, with El Capitan as a backdrop. Each year, the 1,189-square-mile Unesco World Heritage Site receives more than 4 million visitors—and for good reason. This is nature at its finest, whether you’re spying the spectacular Horsetail Fall; making the epic climb up Half Dome; taking in the valley’s panoramic views; or standing in silence in the Mari posa Grove of Giant Sequoias. In April, the park announced a $5 increase in entrance fees to help support restoration programs, campground maintenance, and infrastructure. Consider it a small price to pay for having this awe-inspiring part…

MEXICAN CHEESE CRISPS (CHICHARRÓNES DE QUESO) SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER / 1¼ HOURS 2 tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro2 tbsp. finely chopped white onion12 oz. cold Monterey jack cheese, coarsely shredded (see Shopping Tip below), dividedPico de gallo, salsa verde, and guacamole, for servingCorn tortillas, for serving (optional) 1. Preheat oven to 350°. On a piece of parchment paper big enough to line a rimmed baking sheet, draw a 10-in. circle with a pencil. Make 5 more and put all 6 aside. Set baking sheet in oven until hot. Combine cilantro and onion in a small bowl. 2. Set 1 piece of parchment paper on a work surface, pencil side down. Evenly scatter ½ cup plus 2 to 3 tbsp. cheese over circle (it won’t be covered completely). Chill remaining…

SERVES 4 TO 8 / 1¼ HOURS 4 boneless New York strip steaks, each 1¼ to 1½ in. thick and 12 to 14 oz., fat and silverskin trimmed2 tbsp. ground dark-roast coffee¼ tsp. ground cumin1½ tsp. kosher salt, divided1½ tsp. freshly ground pepper, divided1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oilBlack Lager Demi-Glace (recipe at right) 1. Let steaks stand at room temperature 1 hour. Meanwhile, combine coffee, cumin, and ¼ tsp. each salt and pepper. Brush steaks all over with oil and sprinkle all over with remaining salt and pepper. Season evenly on 1 flat side with coffee rub, gently pressing it in (you may have some rub left over). 2. Prepare a grill for indirect high heat (450° to 550°). For charcoal, leave an area cleared of coals; for gas, turn…

Bothell, WA (Wildwood Spirits Co., Kur Gin; 40% ABV; $28) State-grown wheat distillate forms the base along with juniper, Seville orange, coriander, fennel, and cardamom. Distiller Erik Liedholm also throws in Braeburn apples and Douglas fir grown in his backyard. Woodsy sweetness, citrus, and pine make this a mellow yet complex spirit. Healdsburg, CA (Alley 6 Craft Distillery, Harvest Gin; 40% ABV; $40) Jason Jorgensen makes his grappa-like base using Sonoma County Viognier pomace sourced from nearby wineries. The resulting gin blends foraged fennel and California bay laurel with juniper, long pepper, rose petals, and ginger for floral and licorice flavors. Fun fact: Jorgensen’s mother is a professional botanical illustrator who draws the plants that grace the bottle’s label. Santa Fe, NM (Santa Fe Spirits, Wheeler’s Western Dry Gin; 40%…

As autumn approaches, we can’t help but dream about curling up on the couch with a warm beverage—or coming up with a fresh take on fall decor. Look for our September makeover issue, which comes packed with design inspiration for indoors and out. We’ve partnered with Pottery Barn, whose new Chateau aesthetic blends sumptuous textures and old-world inspiration with sophisticated ease, to offer one lucky winner a $1,000 gift card. Enter the contest (July 16–August 17) on Instagram and get the official rules at sunset.com/potterybarncontest.…

Inside a sunlit space in Portland’s Alphabet District, hand-stenciled black-and-white floors and a beaded skull by Onora Casa are among the first signs that Vía Raíz is no ordinary Mexican crafts shop. Born and raised in the San Francisco Bay Area by parents from the central Mexican state of Michoacán, owner Jennifer Bolanos made her first trip to Mexico City in 2013 and discovered a wealth of designers using traditional techniques and materials to create contemporary wares. “I couldn’t comprehend why I wasn’t seeing this in the U.S.,” Bolanos says. So she began stocking her shelves with magazine-worthy goods, including sculptural brass-and-stone candlesticks by Peca and statement-making Caralarga neck laces fashioned from raw cotton and jute. Says Bolanos, “My vision is to reframe what it means to be made in…

You don’t have to be a trekkie or have a favorite Avenger to appreciate the area’s penchant for the fantastical, though catching up on the latest Marvel blockbuster isn’t a bad way to prep for a trip. The obsession with superheroes and graphic novels comes by way of San Diego Comic-Con, the massive pop culture convention that brings celebrity sightings and geek-approved events galore downtown every summer, drawing more than 135,000 fans. Seriously, it’s a big deal, which is why even though this year’s crowds have returned home, the buzz over the future Comic-Con museum and entertainment complex remains strong. Spoiler alert: The Balboa Park newcomer is talking about screening films in addition to its exhibits as early as next year. In the meantime, fill the void at the recently…

The Mendocino Coast is dotted with hamlets that feel (charmingly) out of sync with the 21st century—places where swooping gulls and hidden coves compensate for the spotty cell coverage. But if you want to balance walks on the beach with a pint and a search for artisanal housewares, Fort Bragg is the spot. With around 7,000 residents, it’s not huge, but that still makes it the county’s biggest coastal city. Here, festive tie-dye and utilitarian fishing jackets mingle at restaurants serving the day’s catch alongside jaw-dropping ocean overlooks. And whenever the confines of civilization start to grate, expansive redwood forests are just a stone’s throw away. 9 A.M. At Eggheads Restaurant (707/964-5005), an offbeat local’s spot with a Wizard of Oz theme, dig into an omelet loaded with Dungeness crab from…

THE VOTES ARE IN. We waded through a sea of entries—and spent endless days on the road and nights on hotel beds, forest floors, and airport benches—to bring you our 2018 Travel Awards. Whether you’re in search of time-tested icons, intriguing newcomers, or insider experiences, you’ll find them here. Use our list of landmarks, restaurants, gear, and more to help plan your next great Western adventure. There’s plenty for the picking, and they’re all winners. Mountainside escape VICEROY SNOWMASS SNOWMASS VILLAGE, CO In the Rockies, close-ups of snow-covered summits aren’t limited to those who reach the top of the ski lift. At this chic hotel near downtown Aspen, 163 rooms are built into the slope of Assay Hill, giving guests immediate access to the mountain from the newly redesigned lobby.…

HOTELS THAT IMPRESS C Lazy U Ranch, Granby, CO; clazyu.com Carmel Valley Ranch, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA; carmelvalleyranch.com Glendeven Inn, Mendocino, CA; glendeven.com Glorietta Bay Inn, Coronado, CA; gloriettabayinn.com Hotel del Coronado, Coronado, CA; hoteldel.com Hyatt Regency Lake Washington at Seattle’s Southport, Renton, WA; lakewashington.regency.hyatt.com Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point, CA; monarchbeachresort.com The Oasis at Death Valley, Death Valley, CA; oasisatdeathvalley.com Paradise Point Resort & Spa, San Diego, CA; destinationhotels.com/paradise-point Paséa Hotel & Spa, Huntington Beach, CA; meritagecollection.com/pasea-hotel Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa, Rancho Santa Fe, CA; ranchovalencia.com The Redwoods In Yosemite, Wawona, CA; redwoodsinyosemite.com Shore Lodge, McCall, ID; shorelodge.com Stephanie Inn, Cannon Beach, OR; stephanieinn.com Tetherow, Bend, OR; tetherow.com Triple Creek Ranch, Darby, MT; triplecreekranch.com The US Grant, San Diego, CA; theusgrant.com GOOD TO PACK Beach LT, orukayak.com Psi Bands, psibands.com…

MELON FROSÉ SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES 5 CUPS) / 30 MINUTES, PLUS 6 HOURS TO FREEZE Get in on the frozen rosé trend with a twist by adding fruit to the ice cubes. Then purée some whenever the mood strikes. You’ll need 3 ice cube trays. ½ full-flavored orange melon (about 1¾ lbs.) such as cantaloupe or Charentais, seeded¼ cup simple syrup*1 bottle (750 ml) rose wine 1. Using a 1-in. melon baller, scoop out 12 melon balls; chill airtight. Trim rind from remaining melon and chop the fruit to make 3 cups. 2. Distribute chopped melon among 3 standard-size ice cube trays. Drizzle with simple syrup and pour rosé on top. Freeze until melon is frozen (rosé will remain slightly slushy), at least 6 hours. 3. Spear melon…

SERVES 4 / 50 MINUTES ¾ cup mayonnaise2 tsp. each very finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves and lemon juice4 skinned coho salmon or halibut fillets, each about 5 oz. and 1 in. thick, with pin bones removedAbout 1 tsp. kosher salt2 tbsp. blackened redfish rub*2 large sweet onions, such as Walla Walla, cut into thick rings2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil4 pieces soft baguette, each about 7 in. long, splitRomaine lettuce leaves2 Roma tomatoes, sliced 1. Heat a grill to high (450° to 550°). Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, rosemary, and lemon juice; chill until using. Season salmon all over with salt and redfish rub. 2. Put onions and olive oil in a 10-in. cast-iron or other ovenproof skillet. Grill, covered, stirring often, until onions are caramelized, about 20 minutes. Remove skillet from…

Yes, the hustle is real. And we’re not going to pretend a daily planner is going to solve the whole work-life balance conundrum. But even the skeptics among us will concede that there’s an inherent satisfaction in organizing your schedule—and the new Day Designer 2018–2019 Academic Year Flagship Edition is one of the most visually pleasing methods imaginable. While the gold foil stickers and bookmark send us straight back to our eighth-grade locker (in the very best of ways), it’s the goal-setting worksheets and inspirational quotes that play to the Oprah in all of us. $59; daydesigner.com.…

Each Wednesday afternoon on Kauai’s south shore, beneath the windswept palms of The Shops at Kukui‘ula, some three dozen food purveyors gather for an outdoor market that doubles as a culinary attraction. It’s just a tiny taste of the tropical delights at Kukui‘ula, located on more than 1,000-acres with a garden centered spin on the good life. Granted, it would take a major anniversary for many of us to justify a stay at one of the plantation-style residences (a two-bedroom cottage starts at $900). But the real draw is the 10-acre farm (shown), which provides most of Kukui‘ula’s produce. Guests can pick tender lettuces and herbs from raised beds, gather plumeria for leis, pluck bananas straight off the stalk, and collect just-laid eggs from the henhouse to cook their own…

This summer’s hottest ticket is Wonderspaces, a roving collection of immersive, often high-tech art installations that debuted here last year and returned in June. Our favorites among the 15 pieces? Nonotak Studio’s Hoshi, a display of fluorescent tubes and standing mirrors that feels like a sci-fi movie set. There’s also the 8,000 suspended spherical lights in Squidsoup’s Submergence (below) that evoke LED-lit computer circuitry, while TadaoCern’s Black Balloons fuses minimalist sculpture with childhood daydreams. Now that’s what we call the light fantastic. $24/adult; wonderspaces.com.…

After spending two years earning certification from England’s centuries-old Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley, Dustin Gimbel was qualified to be a head gardener almost anywhere. But after a quick jaunt home to Southern California, he realized that no opportunity could compete with his heart’s desire to work in the West Coast’s sunshine and warm weather. So Gimbel dug in stateside, applying his education and talents to his own landscaping business, Second Nature Garden Design. Yet now he rejects certain aspects of his formal training: “The English attitude is centered around tradition,” he says. “They like to do things how they’ve always done them, which may or may not actually be the best practice.” But there’s much from Gimbel’s time abroad that informs his choices today. For instance, a series of…

CLASSIC Use a single ingredient, such as California white sage (Salvia apiana). If you find this variety to be too pungent, weave in some California blue sage (S. clevelandii) for a softer fragrance. FLORAL For a combination that looks as good as it smells, use a twig of palo santo as your base and add colorful sprigs of globe amaranth, lavender, miniature roses, and yarrow. AROMATIC Eucalyptus and cedar make for an earthy duo that’s strong but won’t overpower. Use equal parts of both or play with the ratio if you have a favorite of the two. DIGITAL BONUS See the step-by-step to make your own at sunset.com/smudgesticks.…

NORTHWEST Your CHECKLIST PLANT As early as possible, buy nursery transplants of fall and winter vegetables. Purchase a handful of autumn crocus corms (Colchicum autumnale), and set them upright in a bowl containing an inch or two of pebbles. Add enough water to reach the base of the bulbs. They’ll bloom on a windowsill by month’s end. MAINTAIN Snip rampant tomato vines or support them with twine; otherwise, the weight of ripening fruit may break branches or lower developing fruit to the ground. Irrigate in early morning to minimize how much water is lost to evaporation and conditions favored by plant diseases. In cold-winter zones of Alaska, feed grass with 5 pounds of 8-32-16 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet of lawn late this month. It will strengthen the turf for the…

COSTA PALMAS EAST CAPE, BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR, MEXICO The hype about Costa Palmas seems inevitable, given its location within an hour of Los Cabos International Airport and opposite the party-ready Cabo San Lucas corridor. The 1,000-acre compound on the East Cape of Baja, with its two-mile sweep of shore bordering the calm and swimmable Sea of Cortez, was nothing but a stretch of white sand when L.A. real estate firm Irongate purchased it in 2014. But now all eyes are on Costa Palmas, site of a soon-to-open Four Seasons Resort and Residences and an outpost of the ultra-exclusive Aman Resorts (at press time, more luxury developments were under way). Four modernist cabanas by New York architects Guerin Glass—open to prospective buyers of the multimillion-dollar residences—sit by the water, flanking an…

Cantaloupe. Summer’s standard can be exceptionally flavorful if you go for fragrance, well-developed netting over a tan background color, and an indentation at the stem end. Ambrosia. A delicate, extra-sweet hybrid with pale orange flesh. Similar to cantaloupe when ripe, but with finer netting. Charentais. This green-striped French variety has perfumed, deep orange flesh. Look for heady aroma and a grayish-green rind between the stripes. Ha’Ogen. Luscious, juicy, and tropical, with green flesh. The ripe ones turn deep yellow and have a rich scent. Galia. The pale-green flesh is a little crisp, sweet, and spicy; the rind is webbed and deep yellow when ripe. Sharlyn. Soft, off-white to pale yellow flesh with tropical notes. Look for a yellow rind.…

SERVES 1 / 1 HOUR CARDAMOM GINGER SYRUP ⅔ cup sugar½ cup chopped fresh ginger2 tbsp. Chardonnay1 tbsp. cardamom pods, cracked COCKTAIL 1½ oz. Empress 1908 Original Indigo Gin * or Magic Blue Gin (recipe at right)½ oz. each lychee liqueur, such as Soho, and elderflower liqueur, such as St-Germain1 oz. H2rOse Apple rose water beverage * (or use 1 tbsp. each water and filtered apple juice, plus 2 drops rose water)1 oz. lemon juice 1. Make syrup: In a small covered saucepan, bring 1 cup water and remaining syrup ingredients to a boil; then reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Let cool; strain. 2. Make cocktail: Pour gin into a small glass. Combine liqueurs with remaining ingredients plus ½ oz. syrup in another small glass. Set a large ice…

YOU’D EXPECT TO DRINK Pinot Noir and discuss terroir, the idea that the climate and land in which grapes are grown impart unique characteristics. But gin? Why not? Instead of fruit, local botanicals—soaked in a still or suspended in baskets above the spirit base as it’s vaporized en route to a condenser—define terroir. Aside from juniper berries, the general recipe is a blank canvas, says Heather Shade, owner of Port Chilkoot Distillery in Haines, Alaska. Each spring, the former National Park Service biologist gathers budding spruce tips, often less than a mile from her stills, to confer a lemony flavor that pairs with piney juniper. “We want it to taste like Southeast Alaska,” she says. “We harvest mostly from younger trees along the Chilkat River—right before they open up to…

TRAVEL TRAVEL AWARDS 101 Birch Aquarium 102 Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park 103 Greater Ontario Convention & Visitors Bureau 104 Jelly Belly Visitors Center and Tours 105 Santa Monica Travel & Tourism 106 Skunk Train, Railroad Adventures 107 Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite 108 Tetherow Resort 109 VenturaCountyCoast 110 Visit Newport Beach 111 Visit Ventura 112 Wine Road Sonoma County 113 Yosemite Sierra Visitors Bureau ALASKA 114 Explore Fairbanks BED & BREAKFAST INNS 115 Sorensen’s Resort—Hope Valley BRITISH COUMBIA 116 Marine Link Tours 117 CALIFORNIA 118 Alpine County Chamber of Commerce 119 Black Oak Casino Resort 120 Calaveras Visitors Bureau 121 Fairfield—Gateway to the Napa Valley 122 Redding CVB 123 Stockton Visitors Bureau 124 Trees of Mystery 125 Visit Benicia 126 Visit California 127 OREGON 128 Cannon Beach History Center & Museum…