Table of contents for April 2023 in Getaway

BRIEFS Blurred lines WHERE ON EARTH? Hazy View In January, India’s population hit 1.417 billion, making it the most populous country in the world, with 5 million more people than China. Between this staggering number of humans and the country’s rapidly growing economy, there has been a dramatic rise in CO2 emissions. In 2019, India emitted a record high 2.56 billion metric tons, a 300% increase since 1990. Today, India is the world’s third largest emitter of CO2, and it was responsible for 7% of global emissions in 2020. China is the largest emitter, followed by the USA.…

Amsterdam authorities are banning the use of marijuana on the streets and are discouraging drinking in the Red Light District. All this in an attempt to improve the quality of life of the city’s residents. Already alcohol can’t be sold after 4pm on Thursday to Sunday. The city is also considering banning takeaway purchases of soft drugs at certain times, as well as smoking at coffee shops’ outdoor seating areas. The Stay Away campaign kicks off in mid-May, just before the summer. Other measures the city has looked at include limiting river cruises, shortening opening hours for pubs and restaurants, and window prostitution in the Red Light District on weekends. The authorities have also looked at nuisance bachelor parties and banning pub crawls in certain parts of the city centre.…

1 Full toiletry bag I’ve been caught too many times having to overnight somewhere without any clothes or toiletries. 2 Torch In case of an emergency and the lights go out in the cockpit, and it’s also useful in the crew rest. 3 iPad All the flight information is there; it’s essential. 4 Disposable underwear Again, when short trips turn into unexpected overnight trips, you need to be prepared. 5 Washing powder In case I have to wash my Air Force uniform while I’m on a trip. It’s happened before!…

FOOD Peak Ramen There is something ethereal about ramen. Although Japanese food - or washoku - is steeped in tradition and often traces a deep lineage, ramen is a relatively young addition to the country’s culinary landscape. It also reflects a history of gastronomic appropriation and adaptation rather than denoting purist practices. Typically, ramen is a fast and humble source for a nourishing pick-me-up. Its roots lie in working-class tastes and are intertwined with a history of immigration to Japan. Its precursor, a comparatively bland noodle soup once known as Shina soba, arrived with Chinese settlers, and in its modern evolution it has transformed into a multi-dimensional dish rich with soy-based seasoning sauce and laced with ingredients such as roasted pork, naruto (fish-meal cake), boiled spinach and nori (seaweed). That…

CLIMATE HORROR ‘At the first sign of Spring, when sunlight reaches Sólgata (Sun Street), everyone in town lights up their stoves and makes pancakes to share with their neighbours.’ Luke Miller, who is both local adventure guide and marine biologist, explained how many celebrate the end of winter. We got to taste a version of these on a hike with Luke in the Hornstrandir Reserve. In these parts, they’re topped with sugar and butter only. Canadian by birth, Luke has been in Iceland for two years, splitting his time between guiding and doing academic research of shorebirds. Changing climate was the biggest, overriding threat to the region, he told us as we made our way along the cliffs. Weather patterns have shifted, and extremes have intensified. Water from melting glaciers…

TRAVEL catalonia An April hailstorm in Barcelona on Sant Jordi? Indeed, it was coming down in torrents during the city’s biggest event, Catalan Valentine’s Day. Given the twoyear pause in celebrations, there was much disbelief, outrage and bandying about of phrases such as ‘absolute tragedy’. Catalonians are a passionate people, more so when religion’s involved. God, Mary and all the saints (especially Sant Jordi, or Saint George) would have received fervent prayers from millions of citizens when rain was first forecast. But as the Divine would have it, passion and wrath were served in equal measure that day, yet there I stood on Passeig De Gràcia, eyeing Gaudí’s Casa Batlló adorned in red roses for the big day, as pebble-sized hailstones hit the ground. In Catalonia, the legend of Sant…

Scan the OR code with your phone or fill in the entry form for Thornybush online at getaway.co.za/competitions Entries close on 30 April 2023. THE PRIZE A two-night stay for two at Thornybush Game Lodge including meals and two daily game drives, conservation fees and local drinks. TERMS AND CONDITIONS The prize is valid until 31 March 2024, is subject to availability and excludes public holidays, long weekends and peak season (18 December to 5 January). It is non-refundable, non-transferable and cannot be exchanged for cash. Not included in the prize is transport, premium beverages, spa and curio items or gratuities.…

PAARL PEARL Chef Gary Coetzae has a few tricks up his sleeve. Keen on a prawn lollipop, mieliepap crisps or Beluga lentils? Cauliflower risotto or aubergine biltong anyone? On the sweet side, do you fancy a bit of Stroh rum gelato? Perhaps some grapefruit compote or poached plum and vine leaf gelato? It’s all on the menu at the spanking new The Bistro and Tasting Room at Brookdale Estate in the Paarl Winelands. It’s open for lunch from Tuesdays to Sundays, and dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings. The Tasting Room is open daily except Monday, to try the fine wines grown on the estate and vinified by winemaker Kiara Scott. It’s all packaged in a contemporary style, with indoor and outside dining spaces on the wide terrace overlooking the…

About 290 million servings of instant noodles are eaten daily, according to the World Instant Noodles Association. That’ s around 106.4 billion servings of ramen instant noodles every year - half of which are sold in China. This ubiquitous, quickto-make, popular-amongstudents, two-minute noodle standby dish owes its existence to Taiwanese food innovator Momofuku Ando, founder of Nissin Food Products. The legend goes that while walking through war-ravaged Osaka in 1945, he saw that his factory buildings had been flattened and then noticed a makeshift ramen stand with a queue of hungry people. It sparked an idea and 13 years later he launched Chicken Ramen, the first commercial instant ramen. By opting to use chicken flavour, he circumvented religious taboos, whether among Hindus who do not eat beef or Muslims who…

Stay Here TANKWA KAROO NATIONAL PARK Two restored farm cottages, PAULSHOEK and DE ZYFER, offer authentic off-the-grid accommodation. Paulshoek has the luxury of a solarpowered fridge and a gas stove, otherwise it’s paraffin lamps, candles and braai. Each cottage sleeps six. Base rate R900 pn for two ELANDSBERG WILDERNESS CAMP has five cottages each with a splash pool, kitchen, living room with sleeper couch, bathroom and fireplace. Cook on a braai or gas stove. Keep it cool in the solar-powered fridge. Paraffin lamps and candles are provided. Base rate R1 700 pn for two TANQUA GUESTHOUSE COMPLEX is designed somewhat like a desert fort, offering a range of self-catering units with kitchens, lounges and braai facilities. Some units have en suite bathrooms, others are shared. Ideal for group bookings. Base…

At more than 4 000m, Kinabalu is the highest mountain in Malaysia. About 5 000 species of plant can be found on its flanks, including carnivorous pitcher plants, as well as about 300 bird species and 100 mammal species. it s a popular destination for hikers and there are numerous local tour operators who will make arrangements for you. Google “hiking Kinabalu” for the options and prices. This non-techmcal climb typically takes a few days to complete, with an overnight stay in a hiker’s dorm.…

HERE BE DRAGONS Browsing at Bræournir Eyjófsson, a historic bookstore in Flateyri, I paged through a children’s book. ‘It’s a true story, you know,’ said shop manager Ágústa Guomundsdóttir. ‘It happened in 1987. A cow escaped from the slaughter-house. She jumped into the fjord and swam to the other side. The cow’s name was Harpa, but it was changed after that swim,’ said Ágústa, who grew up in this double-storey building made of wood and corrugated iron. ‘The village called her Saeun - the one who loved the sea.’ Harpa/Saeun was spared the slaughterhouse, of course, and lived out her days in the local fields. When she died of old age, residents built a cairn on the beach and erected a sign with her name on it. They also inaugurated…

THE CAR There ere Ceyennes end then there is the Turbo GT, the overechieving superster of Porsche’s SUV line-up. It should have its own nomenclature - the 850Nm V8 engine and upgraded running gear puts it into a league of its own; on a power-to-weight basis, it is equivalent to a 911. Add electronic suspension, all-wheel drive (with a rear emphasis) and one of the world’s best launch control systems and you have a very special machine indeed. That it is capable of playing in the sand as well as rocketing up mountain passes only makes it more desirable. In the Al Wadi Desert the traction central worked a treat, sending power and traction to the required wheels, automatically. And, of course, up Jebel Jais turn-in, braking, visceral acceleration and…

Catalonia, tucked in the north-eastern corner of the Iberian Peninsula, is integrated into the Kingdom of Spain, but it has its own language, parliament, civil law and traditions. It also has control over some public services and has its own police force. But one of the region’s main claims for independence has been the lack of power it has over its laws, financial system and general affairs. The Spanish state has these powers, even though Catalonia, home to about 7.5 million people, has a legal framework to operate with autonomy.…

The seventh generation, locally built D-Max bakkie was launched in 2021, with four double cab variations in the fleet; L, LS, LSE and the rangetopping V-Cross. For many, the LS 4×4 is the sweet spot plenty of power from the unstressed turbocharged 3-litre engine and all the ability of Isuzu’s tried and tested all-wheel drive system. Inside it’s almost as luxurious as the V-Cross, with new ergonomic seats, premium new materials and that large infotainment screen. It also comes with a raft of active and passive safety aids, including brake assist, traction control, ABS and stability control. On the road - tar or gravel it’s a genuine mile-eater, that turbocharged 3-litre and quick-shifting six-speed gearbox working well together. The steering is light and direct, noise suppression at speed is excellent…

EMERALD ZANZIBAR RESORT & SPA A holiday in the sun that suits a budget pocket but is more than a hut on a beach sounds like a good idea. Overlooking Muyuni Beach in Matemwe, the luxury resort has all you need - activities for the active, sun loungers and cocktails for the less active. The garden junior suite has a king-size bed, mini bar and air-conditioning. Book your trip with Africa Stay. From R24 950 pp for seven nights, including flights, meals and drinks africastay.com/emerald-zanzibar-package…

BRIEFS First Person ‘I flew President Nelson Mandela for five years. When I first started, he asked for my mother’s telephone number; he didn’t believe I was so young and qualified to be flying that plane! I joined the South African Air Force (SAAF) in 1999 and I’ve been a presidential pilot for more than 20 years. At the time, I don’t think I realised how momentous it was for me to be flying President Mandela, just a few years into democracy. I was just focusing on being professional, doing my job, and doing it well. He once said to me: ‘This is what we fought for. This is what I wanted to see’. I remember going to the airport as a child, when my mom was travelling. I watched…

Not All The Same Passive noise cancelling headphones are the most common. Although they can be quite big and bulky, they are great for blocking out ambient noise. Active noise cancelling headphones have a built-in audio processor that allows you to hear significantly cleaner sound. They work well when you want to cancel out low range noise, like that of an aeroplane engine or traffic. Adaptive noise cancelling headphones have adaptive technology that adjusts the strength of the noise cancellation depending on the type and level of the surrounding noise you need to block out. 1 | VolkanoX Silenco Active Noise Cancelling Bluetooth Headphones R1 199, incredible.co.za Flights can be noisy affairs engine drones, rowdy children, snoring passengers - making these an essential for watching movies or listening to podcasts…

The opening of RAMENHEAD (ramenhead.co.za) on Parliament Street in downtown Cape Town, signals a sea change for South Africa’s relationship with this Japanese street food staple. Authentic noodles are produced on site - the machine churning them out is in full view - and you can observe the assembly of the ramen bowls in the open kitchen around the corner. The ramen flavours are immaculate: aside from popular tonkotsu and chintan variants (both with pork chashu), there’s a zero-pork wagyu broth (with truffle tare) and a vegetarian option (made with shiitake mushrooms, bean sprouts and bok choy, it brims with flavour). Sticking with another tradition practised by most Japanese ramen shops, there are no reservations, so if there’s a queue, you’ll have a good excuse to get stuck into the…

Borneo has numerous huge cave systems in which reside millions of swiftlets. Their nests are made from bird saliva, a delicacy in China that is made into a gelatinous soup. The birds glue their resinous nests (each is about the size of a teacup) to the highest reaches of the cave ceilings. Locals will risk life and limb climbing rickety bamboo scaffolding to reach this precious commodity, and over the years many harvesters have fallen to their deaths. The harvest is sustainable because the swiftlets make a second nest if the first is removed. At Gomantong Cave (near Kinabatangan River) there are millions of swiftlets and bats as well as a huge multistorey pile of guano covered in cockroaches and other creepy crawlies. Lovely!…

ROAD WORKS A chance conversation with an attendant at the Westfjord History Museum began with the coming of roads to the region after WW2 and diverted surprisingly into a quick education on regional rivalries. ‘My grandfather was a postal worker, making deliveries on foot,’ Gunnar Smàri Rögnvaldsson said. ‘The mail would come by ship. If he had a lot to deliver, he’d be back in a month. In winter, two months when the weather was bad, and he’d have to stay at local farms.’ When the roads came, many postal workers such as Gunnar’s granddad were awarded Iceland’s highest accolade for nation-building, the Order of the Falcon. Gunnar is pleased with the progress: ‘The roads are way better now. There used to be a mountain road; I’m so glad there’s…

GETTINGTHERE Mast of the world’s airlines fly into Dubai and there are often excellent special offers. From there it is an easy hour’s drive up the coast on a multi-lane highway to Ras Al Khaimah. South African residents need a UAE visa before flying, obtainable online, which costs R3 000. The UAE drives on the right-hand side of the road. Hire car companies are plentiful, most operating from Dubai. Stay Here Ras Al Khaimah hosts many of the large hotel groups, including Hilton and Intercontinental, although not in the numbers of Dubai or Abu Dhabi. Many visitors stay in these coastal hotels as part of a package, booked from their home territory. Alternatively, there are smaller hotels, desert camp resorts and campsites aplenty. For a comprehensive list, see the ‘Where…

GETTING THERE Qatar Airways Qatar Airways has 14 weekly flights from Cape Town to Doha and 18 weekly from Joburg. There are two flights a day from Doha to Barcelona. From R13 159 qatarairways.com Getting Around Top Tip A Barcelona Card is available for 72, 9B or 120 hours and gives free entrance to 2B museums, free public transport, free metro and train to the airport and more than 50 discounts to other cultural attractions, visits and tours. €47.70 barcelonaturisme.com. Stay Here BARCELONA LA CASA DEL SOL In the heart of trendy Gràcia, this restored building with its rooftop terrace maintains its 150-year-old charm. It’s a good starting-off point to explore the Catalan bistros and wine bars close by. It’s cellphone-first service, meaning there is no reception desk and everything…

SMELL THE ROSES Pop into Ludwig’s Roses, a farm where more than 1 000 varieties of rose are grown. The farm’s restaurant, The Rose Kitchen, is open for breakfast, lunch and tea (you can book a picnic, too), and the drinks list is packed with rose-inspired drinks such as a rose latte (yes, it’s pink), a ‘rosetiser’ (rosehip syrup and rose soda) and a rose gin and tonic. ludwigsroses.co.za GO WILD Dinokeng is a Big 5 game reserve only 45 minutes from Pretoria. There are more than 140km of roads that you can explore, and there are picnic sites and bird hides for you to stop off at. Guided drives and bush walks are also available. dinokengreserve.co.za PUMP ADRENALINE Explore Limpopo from a new perspective - as you dangle from…