Table of contents for October 2017 in Getaway

My siblings and I have a tradition: three times a year we take each other away for a birthday weekend, somewhere splendid and nurturing. For two days, the birthday sib gets to live a life of luxury, pays for nothing, is cooked for (some of us fancy ourselves as gastronomists, so we like self-catering) and is waited on hand and foot. There’s something deeply curative about this, like your siblings are making up for every childhood wrong they ever did you (there’s nothing that makes my sister and I happier than when our brother is doing the washing up, for instance). The point is, the experience trumps a gift and we adore it. The tradition is seven years in the making, and I notice the weekends are getting more extravagant.…

I was in Amsterdam in April and the leaves were on the trees and colour was slowly welling in the canals, but I was unexpectedly at a loss. I had the early stages of flu, my energy was low and my curiosity was waning. I didn’t feel like Van Gogh or Anne Frank or sex shows or smoking weed. I didn’t know what to do. I found a travel guide in a magazine, one of those authoritative listicles that I always half-suspect have been made up by mutinous interns stuck in an office. ‘10 Unusual Things to Do in Amsterdam,’ it said. ‘Number 1: Check out the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky.’ I walked down the canals to the Damrak in the centre of town and found the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. It…

The happiest news to come out of the recent World Whale Conference in Durban was from ocean expert Prof Ken Findlay of the Centre for Sustainable Oceans at CPUT: after being hunted to the brink of extinction, certain species of the world’s whale population are bouncing back. The number of southern rights, for example, has doubled in just over a decade. He attributes this to the ‘rare paradigm shift in human thinking and behaviour’ achieved by Greenpeace’s anti-whaling campaigns of the 1970s. This shift in thinking is also impacting tourism. Last year, some 13 million people world-wide wanted to see marine mammals in the wild instead of at aquariums or theme parks. That’s good news – as long as it’s done responsibly. This was the main topic on the table…

‘Why do we climb mountains?’ If you’re one of the authors of this month’s hiking features (Rwenzoris, page 82; Langeberg, page 46; Golden Gate, page 66), the answer lies somewhere between solitude and conquest. If you’re the eminent mountaineer George Mallory, the answer is one you’ve likely heard before. ‘Because it’s there,’ he famously said to a New York Times journalist in 1923, shortly before he disappeared trying to summit Everest. Simple, eloquent and, frankly, a bit pithy for a man who reportedly read passages of Keats to fellow climbers as motivation. I can’t think of anything more unbearable. In fact, I suspect it had something to do with his disappearance; I think his climbing partner simply couldn’t stand his waffling enumerations any longer and shoved him into an abyss.…

WHAT WINE? Sangiovese. Go on, say it out loud: SUN-joe-vay-zay. Doesn’t your tomato taste better already? The edible fruits of the nightshade family tend to be rather acidic, and if there’s one basic wine-pairing rule worth obeying it’s this: match the acidity of the wine with that of the food. So for white fans, Sauvignon Blanc is an obvious contender. For lovers of red, start singing the praises of the Italians for working out that Sangiovese, the primary component of their classic Chianti wines, dances beautifully with tomatoes – the primary ingredient in many of their most famous dishes. Heady, spicy, meaty and savoury things tend to happen in bottles of Sangiovese and when the balance of fruit and acidity is bang on, it’s amore in…

Section 1: Cape Town to Marloth Nature Reserve Distance 250km Allow 6 hours driving and 2 nights in the reserve Turn off the N1 at Worcester and take the R60 towards Robertson. Turn left onto the Nuy road, then right at Nuy Winery and onto dirt. Stop at Saggy Stone brewery (1) for lunch and takeaway beers, then continue east to rejoin the tarred R60 through Robertson to Ashton. Take the R62 at Ashton for a quick detour to Cape Dried Fruit Packers (2) in Montagu. Stock up on hiking snacks, then it’s back to the R60 and east along the Langeberg to Marloth Nature Reserve (3) . Section 2: Marloth to Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve Distance 50km Allow 2½ hours driving and 3 nights in the reserve Have breakfast at…

1 BOTTLED EGGS Before travelling, break any number of eggs into a used water bottle (a 500ml bottle holds about eight). Then shake and cook up on arrival. Take some spring onions too – they last well, are lightweight and add fantastic flavour. Also pack some herbs and spices, such as basil and cumin – they’ll add interest to an otherwise standard meal. 2 PROTEIN AND VEGGIE POT Scoop enough peanut butter into an old jar to create a layer on the bottom and top up the bottle with celery or apple wedges. You can do this with hummus or cream cheese, too, and top up the jar with carrots or cucumber. 3 DIY FILTER COFFEE Spoon a portion of your favourite ground coffee into a large paper coffee filter…

Ntumi Kondile, brand ambassador ‘I love Urban Junction in Nahoon. You can almost feel the love that’s gone into the food. It’s also quiet so you can enjoy your meal in peace.’ 043-735-1319 Sethu Pota, project administrator ‘I love the ambience at Grazia on the Esplanade. The best is sitting outside, under the umbrellas, Champagne in hand, taking in the view of the ocean.’ 043-722-2009 Sasha Andrews, sports marketing assistant ‘I love the ocean, so a paddle on the Nahoon River or a boat ride with Barge Cruises is always a win.’ 082-783-7115 Mbulelo Ntlonti, candidate attorney ‘I enjoy going to Hand Made Coffees in Nahoon. They have the best moccaccinos in town. I always go back for more.’ 079-388-7654…

PENGUIN PORTFOLIO Africa’s only penguins are endangered, and we need to fight for their survival. We challenged renowned photographer David Crookes to show us their world (page 58). GOLDEN GATE You’d never guess how beautiful – and important – grasses are. This national park is a treasure trove, and here’s how to visit. See page 66. AFRICA’S BEST TREK No, it’s not Kilimanjaro. It’s the awe-inspiring Rwenzori Mountains in Uganda. Turn to page 82. SWIM WITH SHARKS This experience blew photographer Teagan Cunniffe’s mind and fired up Darrel Bristow-Bovey’s imagination (page 76). LOOK OUT FOR THE GOOD-VALUE STAR Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options, places to stay for under R550 pp (some for less) and that we think offer good value.…

Two-night farm stay for four people at Corrie Lynn Cottage worth R2 240 Wow, thank you so much! This is just the getaway I need. I really appreciate it – thanks so much to Getaway and Corrie Lynn Cottage. – Megan Scrooby Hi-Tec hiking boots worth R2 199 I am delighted to have won these fantastic boots. We go hiking every Sunday and my current ones are due to be replaced. These hiking boots will take me to new destinations and allow me to discover more wonderful areas in our amazing country! – Jill Wagner Wacky Wine Weekend in Robertson worth R5 000 Thank you so much for selecting me as a winner of the prize. I am looking forward to the weekend in Robertson. – Angela Bartsch Lightweight sleeping…

The interactive Eco Marine Village at the Hermanus Whale Festival updates visitors on everything from penguins, sharks, dolphins and seabirds to coastal flora, various conservation and ‘green’ projects and, of course, whales. One of the best skills you could walk away with is the ability to not only identify species of marine mammals but specific individuals who frequent our coastline. 29 September – 1 October. hermanuswhalefestival.co.za African Penguin Awareness Day is 7 October. Rehabilitated rescue penguins will be released back into the wild on Seaforth Beach, Simon’s Town, followed by the Penguin Festival on the lawns, which will have informative exhibits about these highly endangered birds (see page 58). In Port Elizabeth, the Cape Recife branch is hosting a 3K fun walk with prizes for the best dressed and best…

Chairman of Umgeni Steam Railway ‘I’m a founder member of USR, so I’ve been a volunteer for all of its 35 years of existence. I keep an eye on proceedings whenever the trains run. I usually also perform the duties of train guard, so you will probably see me shouting “all aboard”, blowing whistles and waving flags about. Durban is a great city, but when the humidity gets a bit too much, take a short drive up to Kloof – it’s drier here. It’s a leafy and quiet suburb, with no industrial activity and surrounded by undisturbed indigenous bush and forest. There are tremendous views over the nearby gorge towards the north, while the city and ocean can be seen below in the distance to the east.’ Kloof Station, Old…

1 Saggy Stone Brewery. Generous pub fare at reasonable prices (burgers for R80). Takeaway beers from R28 (440 ml). Try the easy-drinking California Steam. Open Friday to Monday, 11am to 4pm. 083-453-3526 2 Cape Dried Fruit Packers. Its Montagu farmstall sells low-priced dried fruits – nectarines for R43 (500g) and nuts of every description. Open seven days a week until 5pm, 3pm on Sundays. 023-614-1134 3 Marloth Nature Reserve. Stay two nights at Bushbuck Cottage and spend a day at Duivelsbos Waterfall or hiking one of the circular fynbos trails. The very fit can try summiting Twaalfuurkop (1 450 metres) for beautiful views along the Langeberg. From R785 for four (sleeps six). R40 pp daily conservation fee. 021-514-1410 4 Tredici. A slice of European cuisine in Swellendam. Delicious Belgian waffle…

THE INSIDER Ondela Mlandu grew up in East London and now lives in Cape Town. But she will be forever loyal to ‘Slummies’, as it’s affectionately known. No one knows where, when or how that nickname came about, but don’t take it too literally, she says. It’s a wonderful place. ‘Why is there traffic here?’ I grumble as I drive over the Buffalo River Bridge from the airport. Traffic in East London was a foreign concept when I was younger. I know it takes more or less 15 minutes to get from one place to another. Not any more, clearly. With a famous Shamrock steak and kidney pie in one hand (these pies, available at any garage shop or cafe, are found only in the Eastern Cape) and my phone…

3km... That’s how far Greyton Eco Camp is from the madding crowd – if one can say that of Greyton’s quiet main street. And yet the hoo-hooing of owls and calling of nightjars is as clear as the star-filled skies at night. That’s what we’re looking for in November’s off-the-grid camping feature: a reconnect with nature in places that may surprise you. Pitch a tent, swim in a river and nap under shady trees – all with a clear conscience, because the campsites we’ve found all around the country leave behind only the barest of carbon footprints. Warm nights and warmer days mean it’s summer. Let’s make the most of it.…

1 MEDITERRANEAN Huw Kingston (Whittles, R350) Ever wondered what it takes to embark on a big, fat expedition? Kingston’s idea – to circumnavigate the Mediterranean Sea (which sounds romantic, delightful) – turned into an epic trip during which he passed through 17 countries on his own steam. It took a year. The reader travels with a man constantly making life-changing choices, whether based on data, rumour or gut instinct; pushing through injury, weather, red tape or sheer bad luck. Landing on countless beaches, the irony doesn’t escape him: his journey took place in the shadow of a major refugee crisis. Many cross the same territory and water he did. So what does it take? A strong body, yes, but an even stronger mind. – CAROLINE WEBB 2…

Whether you’re a hiker, camper or trail runner a decent headlamp must combine power and durability in a lightweight, and preferably affordable, package. The new Petzl Actik Core is all of these, and charges via USB cable too. Petzl estimates that during the lifetime of a headlamp about 900 batteries get used – I don’t know how true this is, but even if you save 50 batteries it’s a win for your pocket and the environment. This little light weighs just 80g, but packs a hefty punch emitting 350 lumens of light (most headlamps in this price range peak at just 200) with a maximum beam distance of 95m. It’s easy to operate and features include white, red and dim lights plus an SOS whistle built into the comfy head…

Defending grass might seem like an odd intention but these precious grasslands are vital to South Africa’s survival. Situated in the Rooiberge of the Eastern Free State, in true highland habitat, Golden Gate lies in a critical watershed. Any rain falling here either runs down via the Caledon River into the mighty Orange, or via the Wilge River into the Vaal. This means that a third of the entire water supply of South Africa comes from this area. Essential to water retention, grass is the reason Golden Gate exists – and also the reason you should visit. People know the saying, to stop and smell the roses, but have you ever taken time to stoop down and look at how intricately delightful grasses are up close? Like other plants, grasses…

When quizzed about memorable food moments in Kerala, a state on India’s tropical southwestern coast, my instinctive response is pepper-banana chips with Babu. Babu Vattathara was our driver who, in the face of oncoming tuktuks, dictated personal recipes or tutored us in the Malayalam pronunciation of kozhy curry. He was our fixer for beer, the man with the selfie stick to hand and, after 10 days together, our friend. It was a vague mention of snacks that prompted his detour through Alleppey to Malabar Chips, where fresh bananas are fed through an electric slicer into a gigantic wok of boiling oil. They are left to swirl and bubble, tossed in the air and then whipped out, dusted with black pepper and offered around while still warm. We couldn’t get enough…

1. GONUBIE BEACH This Blue Flag beach is eight kilometres from the city. It’s a peaceful retreat or great for a family day out, and offers good swimming. It also has an estuary, high dunes, tidal pool, bird sanctuary and 500 metres of boardwalk built to protect the vegetation. 2. COVE ROCK BEACH This is one of East London’s finest fishing spots, 15 minutes from the city centre near the airport. The sandy white beach is secluded and has several fishing pools. Though it’s not great for swimming, it is one of the most scenic beaches, and a key whale-watching spot. 3. NAHOON BEACH This is home to local surfers and the East London Surf & Life Saving Club. Since 1974, the Discovery Surfers’ Challenge has taken place here (…