Table of contents for December 2016 in Getaway

IAN McNAUGHT DAVIS After suffering recurring bouts of wanderlust, Ian quit his desk job to work on a photography portfolio. Fascinated by Ethiopia, he headed there for the Timkat festival, a celebration and mass-baptism marking the end of an annual pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians. See his story and photos on page 92. MICHELLE HARDIE Getaway's copy editor is often distracted by people around her. On a recent horse-riding trip with her daughter in the Amathole Mountains, the presence of two hot-blooded Continentals almost lost her her reigns. Read about their adventure on page 105. CHRIS DAVIES The last time we heard from photojournalist Chris Davies, he was stuck between two brahmins in a hot place: a 30-hour train journey from Mumbai to Amritsar. Before that, though, we sent him somewhere…

Trip to Kapama Private Game Reserve worth R37000 So exciting! We have been wanting to get to that side of the world for some time now, and just not had the opportunity. Thanks to Getaway and Kapama: we can't wait! - Tracey Barton A Canon PowerShot SX610 HS worth R2500 I am ecstatic about winning this camera. I have always wanted a camera and couldn't afford one, so this is perfect timing. This is one of the best gifts I have ever received. Day made! - Xolelwa Mzili K-Way Travel Buddy bag worth R2699 I was super excited to hear I was the winner of the K-Way Travel Buddy bag and can't wait to use it for our next long weekend away. Thanks Getaway, K-Way and Cape Union Mart for…

To compile MapStudio's Life's a Beach, a guide to SA's beaches, Ann Gadd travelled some 9500 kilometres along our coastline, from the Namibian border to Mozambique. There are few people in the country who can say they've done that. Here's her choice of the best ‘all-rounder' beaches: Island Beach, Groot Brak (Garden Route) Unexpected and enchanting, accessed via a single-lane bridge. Has estuary and sea swimming options. Gonubie, East London (Eastern Cape) One of the best beaches in SA, with lovely swimming. Scottburgh (KZN South Coast) Great swimming in the tidal pool or sea. Addington, Durban Safe swimming, loads of facilities and action in and out the water. Kraalbaai, Langebaan (West Coast) Parking and space are limited, but flat warm water, sheltered from the South Easter, makes this a magic…

The best selection of outdoor films in South Africa is the Galileo Open Air Cinema in Cape Town, running until the end of April 2017. It has added new venues this year, more food vendors, plus Friday night screenings with live bands and Sunday night family shows with kids' entertainment. Tickets range from R79 no-frills to R159 VIP, with optional blankets, backrests, popcorn etc. Plus did we mention the new seasonal ticket? R790 pp for 12 shows. Some highlights: Crocodile Dundee (remember him?) on 14 December at Kirstenbosch. Grease (20 December, Hillcrest Quarry). The Lion King (9 December, Central Park Century City). Everest (6 January, The Castle). And we'd be in trouble if we didn't mention Twilight (5 January, V&A Waterfront). thegalileo.co.za…

AFFORDABLE FALLS Shearwater Village, opening on 15 December, is filling a gap in the market at Victoria Falls between luxury hotels and backpackers or camping. It offers en-suite thatched chalets kitted out, hotel style, with towels, crisp white linen and air-con, plus the ‘village' has a bar, restaurant and swimming pool. Just outside the gates, Shearwater Adventures has built individual stalls for local curio vendors ‘with nice shade and ablutions for them to use' – and it's a quick walk into town and to the Falls (there is a view of The Smoke that Thunders from the property). Plus there's access to all of Shearwater's famous adventure activities, of course. There are 16 two-sleeper chalets, as well as a campsite (dome tents can be rented). DETAILS R836 pp sharing, camping…

GOPRO HERO 5 BLACK R7 999, capeunionmart.co.za GoPro's latest action camera features some nifty updates to keep it at the sharp end of content capture. One that we liked is the new voice control. Simply say, ‘GoPro take photo' and it will start snapping – super handy when it's mounted out of reach (like on a surfboard). There is also no more removable waterproof housing. Instead, the unit itself is waterproof up to 10 metres. The result is better audio and an innately more durable device. As with its predecessor, it shoots 4K video but photographers will be delighted that it now shoots in RAW (more detail for better editing!). The final stand-out feature is a revised touchscreen that lets you preview and playback shots on the device.…

‘They come on planes, on the backs of trucks, on buses and on foot. They cross the Blue Nile and travel on roads that curl around vast lakes and slice through golden-brown plains’ I’ve been squeezed into a shuddering, wheezing bus that swells with people – old men in frayed fedoras, breastfeeding mothers, boys who hopped on to sell biscuits and haven’t bothered to get off. Drums thump through tinny speakers, layered with shrill ululations and ecstatic singing. Handfuls of chat (a mildly intoxicating leaf chewed as a stimulant) are passed around. Passengers make signs of the cross as we pass ramshackle churches. More people get on. Anticipation throbs and hums throughout the rickety bus as it lumbers through the highlands, sidestepping indifferent cattle. We pass barefoot children in fields,…

'TRUMPETER HORNBILLS SWOOPED THROUGH THE TREES ... IN THE DISTANCE A FISH EAGLE CALLED' I don’t usually order pizza at 11am, but it was an unusual morning and, besides, I had nothing better to do. Sunshine sparkled on a receding wave and fluffy cumulus drifted serenely overhead, but I was in a mood, and not even a breakfast pizza could cure it. I sat back on the beach and thought about the birds. I’d never heard anything quite like it. Until about three o’clock that morning I’d believed I quite liked birds, but that had all changed now. The birds, and their incessant night-long cacophony, were to blame. And so, with perhaps five minutes of sleep and a hatred of all things avian, I was shoving pizza into my face…

My brother has an excellent ‘festive season' policy: no material gifts, only experiences. Things are just things, he says, and he needs no more of them. What he'd much rather have is travel adventures with his people, and that includes his fabulous (my word) sisters. The idea is to create wonderful memories he can savour when he's old and we're both gone (my brother will outlive us not only through sheer stubbornness, but also because he's younger, and avoids the sun and sugar). So every year the Schoeman siblings go away together. We've been zip-lining in Ceres, snorkelling in Kleinbaai and leaping into rock pools in the Cederberg. Soon we will loll under a waterfall in Franschhoek (thank you Pippa de Bruyn for that On The Chart recommendation – don't…

On holiday we all become children again, eager for first-time experiences, new feelings, sensations and tastes. There are no to-do lists; just a whole lot of ‘nothing important to do' attitude, which I adopted on a recent road trip between Cape Town and Oudtshoorn. I could feel time peeling away my adultness with every majestic mountain pass we drove through and crystal stream we crossed. This is mountain country with a vast collection of passes, such as Michells Pass, Gydo Pass and Bainskloof. The kids were uncharacteristically quiet with their little faces pressed tight against the car window, watching the steep cliff drops of the Swartberg. As the car carefully hugged the road, each turn brought a brand-new vista, which always turned out to be more spectacular than the one…

1 This month Chris Bertish will hop on a custom-made six-metre board and embark on the first-ever transatlantic SUP crossing, all alone, from Morocco to Florida (7 500 kilometres). JUST HOW MUCH CAN YOU PACK ON A SUP BOARD? ‘My paddle craft is the ultimate survival kit – it’s built with every possible technical safety aspect, including a water maker. It has VHS radio, a special wind instrument and a top forecasting communications system (via satellite).’ That said, he’s also taking a life raft, emergency grab-bag, flares, water bladders and multitool for repairs, plus hand-held backups of vital gadgets: VHF radio, sat-phone, manual water desalinator, GPS and extra solar-panel unit. GADGETS ON BOARD: • integrated GPS/radar system, plus a manual compass; • AIS (automatic identification system) to communicate with nearby…

OUR EXPERT SAYS: ‘Kalk Bay punches way above its weight in terms of culinary and retail offerings’ TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 34 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 13 made her list. Most romantic bolthole BY THE SEASIDE COTTAGE TripAdvisor No. 4 of 5 B&B/Inns This dinky little freestanding cottage (shown on page 45) in the garden of artist Chris Silverston should be listed on TripAdvisor under Speciality Lodgings rather than B&B/Inns; that said, it's a real gem. French doors at the end of a garden path open into a compact lounge-dining-kitchen area, with another set of French doors leading…

WHERE IT ALL STARTED Chefs Warehouse & Canteen When food-writing colleagues drop into town, this is one of the first places I take them. It's not bound by a particular cuisine but defined by chef-patron Liam Tomlin's perfect technique, and securing a table is possible if you understand the terms of engagement. They don't take bookings, the kitchen closes at 8pm, the menu is set and the exact offering finalised each morning and served as trays of tapas for two (R560). In the case of small-plate eating, I'm quite happy relinquishing my freedom of choice or else trusting a professional. The experience is both convivial and carefully considered, with dishes arriving in three distinct waves that make sense as a beginning, middle and end. Lighting is bright, seating is communal…

DO IT YOURSELF Durban is a two-hour flight from Cape Town, Port Elizabeth and Johannesburg, or a five-hour drive from the latter. WHEN TO GO Weather is good throughout the year – winter in Durban, though there's a slight chill to the water, yields some of the most beautiful sunsets and sunrises. The December school holidays draw throngs of crowds to the beaches. NEED TO KNOW eThekwini municipality hands out identification armbands for children at the beach over the festive season. Be sure to pick one up for your kids in case you get separated. STAY HERE The Happy Hippo, near South Beach, is a friendly backpackers with a rooftop bar overlooking the streets below. From R460 for a double room. 031-368-7181, happyhippodurban.co.za Ushaka Unit is a top-rated two-bedroom…

NEW LOCKABLE LUGGAGE From R1999, capeunionmart.co.za The new American Tourister Lightrax Spinner is a collection of lightweight suitcases (from a 2,6kg 55cm case) that incorporates a new type of lock to deter thieves. It prevents any movement of the zippers by securing the grips into the body of the bag with a combination code lock. The hard-shell case features an interior hanging pocket and the double-wheel trolley makes it easier and more comfortable to pull. SPHERICAL SHOOTING R9400, nikon.co.za Nikon has entered the action-camera market with an exciting debut – the KeyMission 360, a dual-lens, twin-sensor camera that captures its surroundings in a 360-degree high-quality 4K video or stitched into a high-resolution 23,9-megapixel image. This is truly immersive travel cinema, and like most action cameras it's…

Miles from anyone... …is where you'll be at this secluded waterfall in the heart of South Africa's Wild Coast. The water is clear and cool, tempting you to kick off all your kit, dive in and lose yourself in a moment of uninhibited, natural bliss. ‘It's the finest rock pool I have seen in Southern Africa ... and the closest you'll come to a subtropical paradise,' writes photojournalist Scott Ramsay, who's seen almost all of SA's wild spaces. In the January 2017 issue of Getaway we dive head first into magnificent places like this one to bring you the ultimate South African bucket list – experiences you need to have, and feel, at least once in your life.…

 I was in Phuket one Christmas, visiting my friend Andre. He lives in Nai Harn with his wife and six-year-old son Nicholas, and one night he told me he was worried about raising his son in Thailand. He goes to school with other expat kids – mainly Kiwis and a couple of Australians – and Andre feared this might have a deleterious effect on his character. ‘The Kiwi kids looked at our castle in awe … then came to ask if they could help’ ‘Not this again,' said his wife. ‘It's true,' said Andre. ‘He's turning into a Kiwi!' One morning on the beach we watched some Kiwi kids building a feeble sandcastle. Their dads looked over and gave them the wishy-washy New Zealander thumbs up, even though these were…

‘I have been there twice and loved it ... the bridge on the River Kwai and the history that goes with it, the railway, cemetery and museum. Would love to go to the north to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, and also the southern islands you describe so magically (see bit.ly/GTA-thailand) are on my bucket list now but will have to hurry up as I’ve just turned 70!’ – MAUREEN BRADY ‘I love Thailand. Always something new and vibrant. Loved Chiang Mai and Phuket’s less touristy areas.’ – SU CARTER WIN! Maria wins a pair of Storm WP hiking boots from Hi-Tec. They’re designed for durability, breathability and comfort, and are worth R1099. Email your letter (no more than 250 words) to editor@getaway.co.za. Getaway reserves the right to edit your…

KEEP TRACK OF YOURSELF Tackle the trails this summer with the new TomTom Touch – one of the first activity trackers to measure your body fat and muscle mass, as well as all the normal stuff like counting steps. The bright touchscreen display can be connected to your smartphone for notifications; the sport mode tracks time, calories burned and heart rate. The unit is water resistant and there's a meaty five days' worth of battery life. This 24/7 gadget, which also has auto sleep detection, is a great way of keeping any holiday excess in check. R2 499, tomtom.com…

1 ELEPHANTS Ellies bring an extraordinary presence to any environment they inhabit or traverse. A good way to capture this is to use a wide-angle lens and shoot from a low-angle upwards. Alternatively, zoom in on their eyes, ears and trunk – ellies have fantastic texture to their skin, allowing you to create abstract yet intimate portraits (Prelena Soma Owen’s image on page 34 does this well). Emphasise the texture in post-production by increasing the clarity slider slightly. Elephants have semi-predictable routines so ask the camp manager or ranger where and when they are likely to amble down to a specific waterhole. BEST LOCATIONS Chobe National Park, Kruger National Park, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Addo Elephant National Park, Hwange National Park. 2 LIONS Lions are charismatic subjects, whether in profile, interacting with…

You have friends coming to Cape Town. Where would you recommend they stay? The Southern Sun Waterfront. The great thing about it is the friendly staff – they really go the extra mile to make it as comfortable as possible. Also, it's close to most of the city's tourist attractions – Table Mountain, the Waterfront and the beach. It's in the perfect spot. In your travels, what place has really stood out? There is something about Dubai that's vastly different to what I'm used to. It's the desert, the different culture, and also how they focus on entertainment to keep people busy. Usually when you think of a desert, you think of how there's nothing to do. And your favourite city? The day I set foot in Rome, I knew…

1 KAYAK (& LILO) UP THE STORMS RIVER This two-to three-hour adventure starts with a paddle in a two-man kayak on the Indian Ocean, passing under the iconic Storms River suspension bridge – a popular picturesque stop on the Garden Route (an hour from Knysna or two from Port Elizabeth) – and heading into the river mouth. Pretty soon our expedition is in the formidable Storms River gorge, which is over 100 metres high in some places. The river guides share the history of the woodcutters who used to inhabit the area and you’ll see the caves they often slept in – now home to a big Egyptian fruit bat colony. Chances are also good you’ll spot dark shadows in the water as you paddle. The Storms River is a…