Table of contents for August 2015 in Getaway

TYSON JOPSON When Getaway’s deputy editor is not banging away at his keyboard or frantically searching for his motorcycle keys, he’s on the hunt for the next far-flung escape. He recently visited the remote island of St Helena and its natural beauty left his jaw on the floor. Read about his adventure to an island on the cusp of change on page 74. TABBY MITTINS After studying Nature Conservation, Tabby headed abroad, and after nearly a decade away, she returned to South Africa. She now accompanies her husband, Villiers Steyn, through southern Africa as a travel writer, and together they present interactive lessons on environmental and conservation issues to schoolchildren. JACQUES MARAIS Jacques admits to being a ballie with a relatively high kilometre reading. Nonetheless, momentary lapses of unreason see…

1. The Eastern & Oriental coaches, built by the Japanese in 1972, were initially in service until 1979 with Silver Star, which operated the Auckland to Wellington route. All 31 carriages were then taken over by Orient-Express Hotels, now named Belmond Ltd, the same company that owns Cape Town’s beloved hotel, the Nellie. 2. The journey from Bangkok to Singapore is about 2 012 kilometres and takes four days. 3. Fortune-telling is common in Thailand, where even the prime minister has admitted to seeking advice from mystics.…

ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY FESTIVAL PRETORIA 1–2 August When 23 producers cart over 180 different types of wine over 1400 kilometres to turn a country estate outside Pretoria into a veritable vintner’s fantasy, you have to appreciate the logistics behind an event like this. Kids have cupcake decorating, beading, a jumping castle and sand art, and families can picnic. DO IT Day tickets are R150 and weekend tickets R280. Kids free.robertsonwinevalley.com IRONMAN 70.3 DURBAN 2 August You won’t be as awesome as the armoured superhero, but after the 1,9-kilometre swim, 90,1-kilometre cycle and 21,1-kilometre run, you’ll be pretty close - and you’ll have bragging rights for life, because it’s considered to be one of the most difficult one-day sporting events in the world. DO IT Entry is R3 500 pp.ironman.com DECOREX…

Loadshedding alerts you to stage changes and then provides detailed schedules for specific suburbs. Multiple suburbs can be searched and saved and the interface uses tabs to switch between the various active stages. The app will alert you to any stage changes as they are made public, and a quick look at its home screen tells you if the national grid is currently under strain or not. Free on Android and IOS. GridWatch is a simple, effective tool to help keep track of load-shedding schedules. It covers municipal areas with a search function that filters by suburb or zone. All possible outage scenarios are given for the next few days (the larger municipalities provide schedules up to 10 days in advance) and the simple interface shows how a change in…

YET ANOTHER NEW DOMESTIC AIRLINE FOR SA FlyGoAir launched in 2012 but only flew once and stopped operations. Now, it’s the new kid on the block for local carriers, but it’s got something extra - the option of ordering cocktails on board. It’s not labelled as low cost, but rather a premium carrier with meals, drinks and access to lounges included in the fare. FlyGoAir will operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. One-way fares from Joburg to Cape Town are from R1485 pp. flygoair.co.za NEW FLIGHTS FOR ETHIOPIAN AIRLINES Ethiopian Airlines has launched six scheduled flights from Addis Ababa to Cape Town. Flights will depart Addis on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 9.30am, arriving in Cape Town at 5.30pm. Another three will depart Addis on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at…

There was the invite to meet for a Bloody Mary and bacon bap at the V&A Waterfront, the bacon-roll-with-a-sea-view recommended in Durbs and then news of an NYC café named after (and dedicated to) the lesser-known bacy-eggy-cheesy-roll (BEC). The BEC, a Sunday institution at my home, is gaining traction as a legitimate brunch order. It was bound to happen, life is fast. Sitting down with knife and fork isn’t always practical and some things just taste better held between two hands and snaffled back with hungry abandon. Charcuterie specialist Richard Bosman had the same thought when trawling Cape Town for breakfast one morning-after. His wish was The Rooster: Kaiser roll, his own bacon, fried egg, taberu rayu chilli-garlic sauce. There wasn’t anything like it. So he opened a shop called…

A peek at Kruger National Park’s online booking system revealed gaps for the coming weekend and I snapped them up. I could already feel my spirits lifting. Awake at 5am, I tucked into Harrie’s famous pancakes for breakfast. After Lydenburg, the escarpment drops into the lowveld along Long Tom Pass, leading the way to Sabie. A quick stop at Graskop to browse the crafts, then a final easy stretch to Paul Kruger Gate. Once checked in, the first port of call was Lake Panic. Crocodiles lazed about and hippos harrumphed. A few kilometres on, we found our first felines. A trio of elephant drank beside them. Ahhhhh. Just what the doctor ordered. Closing time urged me on to Satara Rest Camp for a braai to the sounds of jackal, hyena…

Driving along the coastal road through Betty’s Bay in the Western Cape, it is easy to zoom straight past Harold Porter National Botanical Garden - which is a pity. Set within the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, this compact garden - founded by Harold Porter in 1955 - has something for everyone. Hiking the Disa Kloof Trail or the Leopard’s Kloof Trail provides ocean and mountain views - even whale sightings. In winter, a stroll through the gardens will deliver sightings of majestic king proteas. And you might even have a close encounter with one of the resident baboons - just don’t smile as they read this as threatening behaviour. Developed in 1849, Durban Botanic Gardens is the oldest surviving botanical garden in Africa. It also has the rarest cycad collection in…

CROCS RAINFLOE BOOTS R999, crocssa.co.za WATERPROOF RATING Splashproof, but no standardized rating. BEST SPECS Made with soft, flexible waterproof material and warm fabric lining, the boots are lightweight and comfortable. They’re odour-resistant and anti-microbial, and straps make them easy to pull up. Available in black, brown or red. VERDICT Yes they’re Crocs, but they are wonderful. Incredibly soft, warm and comfortable, they’re made for jumping in puddles stylishly. No water seeped in, but I made sure my waterproof trousers covered the leg of the boots. I’d happily wear them on the streets of London. They are also easy to pack and compress into a slim package. FIRST ASCENT FLASH FLOOD PANTS R849, firstascent.co.za WATERPROOF RATING 5000 mm BEST SPECS These pants are lightweight, packable and easy…

CYCLING SUNNIES This pair of Adidas Evil Eye Evo Pro sunglasses - designed for cyclists and other outdoor adventurers - provides good visibility with a wider-than-normal field of vision, and has sturdy, but flexible, arms for a secure fit. Protection against wind and glare are a given, but what sets these sunglasses apart is a new adaptation of the Adidas ClimaCool system - ventilation holes around the frame as well as inside the sweat bar - which prevents the lenses from fogging up. R2799, adidas.co.za MAGIC BINOCS A pair of Navstar 10x50 Autofocus Magic Binoculars doesn’t feature a focus dial between the eyes and automatically sees everything crisply from 12 metres to a kilometre away. It doesn’t require zooming or adjusting, but still has high-quality, fully coated optics, a decent…

In the last couple of weeks, I’ve experienced the full gamut of life: a wedding, a funeral and an adventure. I travelled for all of them, and it struck me that travel is a real show of commitment. The first event was in Germany. Ever been to a German wedding? They’re surprisingly un-Teutonic. There is no single best man’s speech. Instead, there’s a variety show of contributions from all the besties, which can range from poetry to singing or dancing in traditional costume. It’s a riot. It’s also a prime opportunity to see family - one of the great motivators of travel. And when people know that you’ve flown 10 000 kilometres their hearts expand with appreciation for the self-sacrifice you’ve made to them. The funeral was local, but required…

THE POPULAR ONE Gousblom (Gazania krebsiana) is one of the best-known spring flowering plants, which covers Namaqualand in a swathe of bright orange each year. It starts to flower in late August and continues until January, peaking from October to November. FIND THEM Hantam National Botanical Garden just outside Nieuwoudtville. You can picnic or go on a guided tour. Take your time, there’s lots to see. Entry is R18 for adults, R14 for students and R10 for pensioners and children. 027-218-1200, sanbi.org A RARE ONE Kelkiewyn (Geissorhiza radians), or wine cups, look like half-full wine glasses. They’re deep purple with a large red centre, and are a beautiful and rare sight when in bloom. FIND THEM Your best bet is to head to Darling. More than 10 per cent of…

CAPTURE ADVENTURE The GoPro HERO+ LCD is a point-of-view camera that captures clean video, superb stills and now features an LCD screen with touch-screen camera control and Wi-Fi. It’s probably the most user-friendly option out there. R4 800, omnico.co.za Once you’ve got the GoPro, get the Thule Legend GoPro backpack. The crushproof, padded compartment can hold up to three cameras and you can mount two cameras to the pack and record from multiple angles. Show price is R2 400 (normally R2 999). SEE THE LIGHT The Secur Spotlight is a cell phone charger and high-powered 10-LED lantern-cum-spotlight. It can be charged up four ways: the built-in dynamo generator, USB port, cigarette adaptor or via the electric mains. R499, capeunionmart.co.za A NEW KIND OF NAVIGATION The Garmin nüviCam has a built-in…

OUR EXPERT PIPPA SAYS: The South Coast is very, very affordable! TripAdvisor and booking.comgive lists of accommodation, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 15 years for Fodor’s, rates the rated, plus roots out new treasures. THE CASE FOR THE KZN SOUTH COAST • PROXIMITY An hour from Durban, and you’re on a deserted beach, toes lapped by a warm Indian Ocean, nothing but a lush green tangle of milkwoods and wild bananas behind you, and the occasional rumbling train. • UNTOUCHED Due in part to the coast-hugging railway line, vast swathes along the R102 have escaped the rapacious development that characterizes the north. The areas to look out for are Umkomaas’ Widenham beach and Clansthal Conservancy, the historically…

WHY IT’S WORTH THE TRIP The fishing is excellent from rock angling, salt-water fly fishing to deep-sea fishing. It s a birdwatcher s paradise, home to the full gamut of waders, forest and pelagic species. Snorkelling and diving is some of the best along this pristine African coastline. The water is 27 degrees Celsius all year round. It s a great family destination thanks to a variety of activity – from laid-back paddling on the beach for little ones to canoeing and diving for adults – and accommodation options. ‘One thing you can bargain on is that you won’t be spending a huge amount of time indoors. No siree – this is outside weather at its best ’ ‘Red-eye.’ The word doesn't come close to summing up how much I…

GETTING THERE The hike begins at Sentinel Car Park near Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. From Durban, take the R74 past Bergville and the Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve, and then right onto R712 to Puthaditjhaba. From there follow the signs to Witsieshoek. From Joburg, take the N3 to Harrismith, and then follow the R74, which becomes the R712 to Puthaditjhaba. WHEN TO GO Autumn or spring are the best times to hike in the Berg. There are fewer thunderstorms, and temperatures are milder than winter. DO THIS A guide is recommended. Caiphus Mthabela is a well-respected mountain guide who lives in the Mnweni area, and knows the northern Drakensberg better than most. Call him on 073-603-9107 or email him on caiphus@emachibini.co.za. He charges from R600 per day, depending on the length of…

WHY IT’S WORTH THE TRIP Nowhere else in the Lowveld can you watch lions from your car in some of the region s most scenic and productive veld without having to share the sighting with other people. It s just you, your camera and the Big Five. The Sabi Sands and Timbavati private game reserves might be world renowned for their pristine bushveld and leopards up every second marula tree, but just one drive through Manyeleti was all it took to nudge them from the top of my list of favourite Lowveld reserves. Tucked between these two exclusive reserves on the edge of Kruger, Manyeleti’s landscape is more scenic and open, which not only allows great visibility for sightings, but also attracts more plains game such as zebra, blue wildebeest…

‘WHAT WAS THAT?’ Sitting around the fire in Savuti, braaibroodjies crisping in front of us and boerewors spitting beside them, we hear branches rustling in the blackness. Ears prick and only the flames dare move. ‘I think it’s behind you.’ Those words top the list of ‘things you do not want to hear when camping in the unfenced wilderness of the Savuti marsh’. Famed for an abundance of feline predators, Savuti has just 14 campsites and we’d been warned about nocturnal visitors, to the extent that it’s forbidden to walk to the loos. ‘It sounds like a bushbaby landed in a tree,’ I whisper. Bryan leaps out of his chair and shines a beam into the bushes. The coal-dark night lifts, revealing an elephant nonchalantly grazing metres from our dinner.…

‘First you’ll need two litres of water, two tablespoons of Robertson’s ginger powder, two cups of sugar, one teaspoon of cream of tartar, a handful of raisins, the skin of a pineapple and, finally, a teaspoon of yeast.’ Mamma Swartbooi (or gogo, to me) from the township of Kayamandi (‘a pleasurable home’, in Xhosa) was describing the process of making gemmer (ginger beer), while we sat at Hartenberg Wine Estate in Stellenbosch. Meanwhile, I sipped on the estate’s Shiraz and my taste buds encountered heaven. It’s ironic, I think to myself, that of all places, I learn about making this popular Xhosa drink in Afrikaans Stellenbosch. Then again, the town is one of South Africa’s purest sources of all things infinitely quaffable. And edible. A little earlier, I was chatting…

2566km... ... in 10 days – and a wide, wide-open sky. Twice a year, a group of determined hikers traverse this considerable distance through the stony Karoo on a trek called the Tankwa Camino. The Spanish word caminomeans path, and although this walk is only a fraction of the distance of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes (where its name hails from), it tests the limits of the body, mind and heart. The first Tankwa Camino was a huge success with interest from all parts of South Africa. In its third year, the trail has just been awarded Green Flag status and been deemed a difficult trail due to the long distances covered each day and the demanding weather conditions. The Tankwa Camino stretches from Calvinia to Ceres and…

My favourite walk in all the world is the one from your compartment on a swanky train down a swaying corridor, all gussied up in your suit and clean shirt, to the saloon car for a drink before dinner. Outside the dark world rushes by and you’re reflected in the window glass like the happy, transparent ghost of a more sophisticated version of you. I was on the Eastern & Oriental Express, thundering down from Bangkok to Singapore. It felt a little strange to be there because I had been there before, a decade and a half earlier, with my girlfriend at the time whom I loved very much. It’s always strange to retrace the steps of a memorable journey with someone new. The past, too, eerily overlays the present…

WINNING LETTER We decided to be tourists in our own city on our last holiday. At first it seemed stupid - but ended up being one of our best holidays ever. We jumped on one of the City Sightseeing buses that have a hop-on, hop-off option. We did this over a few days, and our first stop was a trip up Table Mountain cable car. It was not our first time, but so many Capetonians have never done it! It is one of the New7Wonders of Nature and on our doorstep. The next day we took the red bus to the most beautiful garden in the world, Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Next on our to-do list was fish and chips at Kalk Bay harbour and a great photo session followed.…

If you’re after a bit of history and culture, Mayasree Moodley, the public relations officer at Durban Tourism, suggests the Inanda Heritage Route, which includes the site where former president Nelson Mandela cast his vote in the 1994 elections (zulu.org.za), the Oriental Walkabout that stops at the muthiand Victoria markets (031-322-4173) or the Kwa Muhle Museum (031-311-2237). For the foodies, Pedro Pimenta, director of the Durban International Film Festival, says do breakfast at Circus Circus Cafe (circuscircus.co.za), lunch at Palki (palki.co.za) - for the best crab curry in town - and end off with an evening chill at The Chairman, with its sophisticated atmosphere (thechairmanlive.com). Joanne Hayes, owner of Durban-based Tumbleweed Communications, recommends surfing lessons on the Golden Mile (learn2surf.co.za). No visit to Durban is complete without a bunny chow;…

1. BIGGEST IN SOUTH AFRICA Southern Sun Elangeni and Maharani, Durban Rooms 734 Restaurants 9 What makes it special? There are three heated swimming pools and an on-site spa. 2. BIGGEST IN THE WORLD Venetian Las Vegas and The Palazzo (operating as one hotel), Las Vegas, Nevada, US Rooms 7 117 Restaurants 39 What makes it special? It features a Guggenheim Hermitage Museum, a wedding chapel and Venetian landmark replicas such as Piazza San Marco. Other features TAO Beach, located on top of the resort’s nightclub, is a well-known day and night pool party spot. 3. ABOUT TO BEAT THEM ALL Abraj Kudai in Mecca, Saudi Arabia Rooms 10000 Restaurants 70 What makes it special? Five floors are for the exclusive use of the Saudi royal family and there are…

The Umhlanga or Reed Dance ceremony in Swaziland is a weeklong festival where girls from all over the kingdom cut reeds, present them to the queen mother and then dance in celebration. One of them could even be chosen as the king’s bride; he’s been known to choose a new wife from among the dancers. Up to 40 000 girls take part and dress up in traditional wear, making it one of the biggest cultural events in Africa. The last two days of the event are open to the public. 27 August – 3 September. DO IT Graham Chennells offers a day tour for R650 pp, including a light lunch (take your own transport and follow him). CONTACT 035-474-4919, eshowe.com While we’re on the topic of royal  affairs... Buckingham Palace…

You have family coming from overseas. Where would you recommend they stay? Ocean Eleven Guest House. First of all, it was nominated (by The Times, UK) for having one of the best views from a guest-house window in the world. It’s right on the very seafront and you look across the fynbos to the sea; absolutely amazing. The welcome is warm, atmosphere relaxing and the staff provides first-class service without being obtrusive. The decor fits with the environment: it’s grey and white, and the last time I was there it was a bit of a chilly evening so the fire was going and candles lit. And what makes Hermanus so special? We’ve got everything here - beautiful mountains for hikes, the wine farms up the valley, our town centre, which…

‘I’m a Dutchman so a potjie to me is very different to what it is for other people,’ says Bertus, starting with a definition. ‘A Dutchman potjie is layered and very mildly flavoured - it maybe has a pinch of curry powder. And it must be social. Because a potjie cooks so slowly (and South Africans love wine so much), it allows us to have a lekker kuier around the fire.’ • The older your three-legged cast-iron pot, the better your potjie will taste - flavours are embedded over years of use. • The legs are there to lift it off the coals and it’s best cooked over a very low temperature over a very long time. • The cut of meat is very important, tougher pieces like neck and…

The finest thing about travelling with - and living in - a caravan is the intimate relationship it can afford you with nature. I use the word 'can' because it really is up to you. And how sensitively you wish to move among the beasties. Bust out your Led Zeppelin at full volly of a morning and there ain’t a bird or snake that would be seen dead at close quarters. What better music, anyway, than the All Along The Watchtower-like skrewl of the fish eagle? Or the Black Keys’ synthesiser-spurt of the grottling of the blue crane? I am blessed to have both serenade me daily at my home base near Stanford. As well as the wildly different calls of spotted eagle owls and barn owls. And, in summer,…