Table of contents for August 2018 in delicious

WINTER IS ALMOST OVER , the sun is shining and the Italian issue is here! And what better way to experience it than for us to transport you there. When I conjure up my own memories of Italy, they are varied but have a common thread. I have visited in both salubrious and, well, less salubrious fashion: from backpacking through ferry towns, to foreign (shoe) correspondent in Milan, to civilised vacationer in Venice. The unique thing about Italy is that any which way to experience it is grand. For starters, given the great Italian tradition of aperitivo is on the rise here (thankfully a more sophisticated alternative to the Australian translation Happy Hour), we’ve whet your appetite on page 94. Then have a seat in Silvia Colloca’s cucina and feel…

PASTA PARTY Romani ravioli cacio e pepe (cheese & pepper ravioli), p 25 Even Keel Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2016 Fettuccine with calamari ragu, p 66 Polperro ‘Talland Hill’ Chardonnay 2016 Pasta with sausage ragu and kale (pasta con salsiccia ragù e cavolo nero), p 111 Even Keel Canberra District Syrah 2016 “This classic Roman dish goes well with the honest flavours of our easy-drinking pinot noir. For the seafood fettuccine, our single-vineyard chardonnay has a richness that works particularly well with strong flavours – the complexity of this wine really complements the unique texture of pasta. The key to pairing with the bold and rich flavours of the sausage ragu is to ensure the wine is not too big to overpower the dish. It’s why this cool-climate syrah is…

delicious. Produce Awards: “Seafood day. Making sure we pick Australia’s best seafood.” @chefbennett23 “Behind the scenes at the delicious. Produce Awards. #food #produce #delicious #fish #cooks #chefs” @chefmattmoran “@deliciousaus #produceawards. Blown away by produce in the ‘from the sea’ and ‘from the earth’ categories.” @wolfinkitchen “Australia’s sustainable producers and growers just keep getting better.” @wolfinkitchen “A great couple of days judging the delicious. Produce Awards.” @chefpetergilmore @deliciousAUS…

• RED CABBAGE, also called purple cabbage, has richly coloured leaves that vary in shade. When cooking, add vinegar or another acid to help the leaves retain their colour. • SCAMPI look like large prawns but have lobster-like flesh. In Australia, they are most commonly sourced from the waters off the west coast. Best paired with butter and garlic. • PORK LOIN is a favourite for roasting or grilling. It comes in a range of cuts, including bone-in varieties such as cutlets and racks, or boneless steaks and fillets. • PECORINO is made from sheep’s milk. The hard cheese gains its intensity through the maturation process – the sharp and salty flavour is perfect for indulgent Italian dishes.…

AS WITH WINE, terroir – the taste, or in the words of The Castle’s Dennis Denuto, “the vibe” of a place at a moment in time – is now a buzzword in the buzzed-up world of coffee. “A lot of people drink coffee, but not a lot taste coffee,” says Cam Stephens of Sydney’s Mecca Coffee. “The single-origin movement showcases terroir in coffee, and its complex flavour profile.” At Mecca, single origins are served neat, so the unique flavours of the farms in Bolivia, Peru, Vietnam, Papua New Guinea and Kenya can shine through. Don’t fancy notes of blueberry or leather boot in your cup? Skip acidic high-altitude varieties for a blend that has a chocolatey, nutty profile for mass appeal. It takes six stages to get coffee in…

THE BEAK OR BILL is a fairly unique facial feature of our feathered friends, dinosaurs and, of course, the platypus. But they’re not the only ones with a protruding pecker. Garfish, the slender, silver dart of the sea, boasts a pencil-like beak full of tiny jagged teeth, used for fighting and sifting through seaweed for a feed. And for its feistiness, garfish has earned the nickname ‘needlefish’. Handle with care when catching them and you’ll be rewarded. “There are a few species in Australia,” says John Susman of Seafood consultancy Fishtales. “Most average 20-45cm in length and 100-300g, but can be bigger. The most common are Southern Sea, Snubnose, Eastern Sea, Shortnose and the Three-by-two garfish from Queensland.” But if you’re fossicking around the local fish market, you’re more likely…

Europe’s majestic Rhine, Main and Danube waterways meander through a region steeped in history. Grand castles, fairytale palaces and romantic ruins of the past dot the ancient trade routes as they wind through five countries, including the Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary. Today, the sounds of feudal knights, historic battles and medieval jousts have been replaced by tranquil countryside with flourishing towns and villages. Let your imagination run wild as you explore the sights on Scenic’s once-in-a-lifetime Jewels of Europe river cruise. The 15-day journey from Amsterdam to Budapest includes unrivalled views of the World Heritage-listed Rhine Gorge in Germany, a visit to the 18th-century Benedictine Abbey in Melk, Austria, time following the Romantic Road to the walled town of Rothenburg and much more. It’s sure to be an…

FROM MEATBALLS IN tomato sauce to the over-the-top chicken parma Italian-American food is as big and bold as Italian-Americans themselves. As for those meatballs they have their origin in the immigrants escaping the poverty of Italy’s south for a new life in America. They arrived with recipes for small, bread heavy meatballs but soon discovered that meat, especially beef, was much more plentiful and, therefore far cheaper in their new country. It became a staple, and families started serving up meat dishes – including plus-sized meatballs – at the dinner table quite frequently. They combined this new-found bounty with one of the most commonly preserved foods then available tinned tomatoes, and classic Italian-American food was born. This ‘fusion’ also brought some confusion about the origins of various dishes being touted…

EVERYTIME SOMEONE TELLS me they are going to travel to Italy, I am always eager to know about their itinerary. Without fail, hotels are booked in Venice, Milan and Florence, as well as a rustic agriturismo near San Gimignano and an Airbnb by the Spanish Steps in Rome. From there, Naples and the Amalfi coast are only a few hours away. It’s so easy to experience Italy through the prism of its more famous landmarks. However, there is another destination, only a few hours east of Rome, that offers unparalleled, unadorned beauty, both in its scenery and in its food traditions. It’s the Abruzzo region, where my mother and her family are from. Abruzzo differs from the much-loved Tuscany and Umbria in the way it unapologetically stuns you with its…

SWEET OR SAVOURY? I prefer to serve small, tapas-style dishes to end a meal. GO-TO DESSERT Molten chocolate fondant or Milo and ice-cream half melt, if I’m preparing it. In terms of store-bought, it’s vanilla custard straight from the carton. BEAR FRUIT After all the serious business is done, fruit is refreshing and can cut the palate. In Italy, it’s quite common to finish a meal with fruit. TOP TIPPLES My preferred drink is a Negroni or a G&T, but I love Italian liqueurs like Amaro or Averna, too. PLATING UP I like standard white plates from Maxwell & Williams, which are flexible with everything you serve. GLASS ACT I use Riedel for wine and other alcoholic drinks, and Ikea for everything else. COLOUR PALETTE I’m drawn to woods, coppers…

JUNE’S MOST-LIKED POST 1981 likes, 52 comments Now that the long weekend is finally here, it’s time to cosy up with comforting desserts like this apple, gin and juniper tarte Tatin from the June issue. Recipe: @phoeberosewood Photo: @bendearnley Styling: @kirstenljenkins WINNING PIE: delicious. magazine with tea and toast is my morning ritual. I had been thinking about what to do with the mince I had in the fridge for dinner. Bingo! Matt Moran’s mushroom, beef and pepper pie (May 2018, p 82) was amazingly rich and hearty. The best thing is it didn’t take long to make and was ideal to feed a family. Thanks Matt. Penny Ingram HEY PRESTO: Matt Preston’s Greek lamb via an Aussie sheep station (June 2018, p 93) should be re-titled Ned Kelly…

“THE ACADEMIE MONS IS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST AFFINEURS. THEY’RE THE MASTERS OF LOOKING AFTER CHEESE.” ON THEIR FARM in Robertson in NSW’s lush Southern Highlands, Pecora Dairy’s Cressida and Michael McNamara are making some of Australia’s best cheeses. In fact, so highly regarded was their ewes’ milk cheese at last year’s delicious. Produce Awards, it saw them win our inaugural Alla Wolf-Tasker Good Food Matters Scholarship. In June, the couple used the $5000 prize to head to the world-renowned Academie Mons outside Lyon in France to learn the centuries-old art and science of affinage, or maturing cheese gracefully to create a distinct and unique flavour profile. “The Academie Mons is considered one of the world’s best affineurs,” says Michael. “They’re the masters of looking after cheese. The…

When looking for culinary inspiration for his Sydney restaurant, La Rosa, Nino Zoccali turned to the Eternal City. In Rome and its surrounds, he discovered traditional and sensational Italian dishes infused with modern zest. Two years ago, Zoccali embarked on a whistle-stop eating tour of Lazio, the central Italian region whose principal city is Rome. With three colleagues, he flitted from urbane pizza stores to coastal eateries on the Tyrrhenian Sea, from slick wine bars to rustic enoteca. The gastronomic blitz would inform the rebirth of La Rosa, Zoccali’s restaurant in Sydney’s Strand Arcade. “The experience was invaluable in helping us to create an authentic and delicious Roman eating experience at La Rosa,” he says. The idea of a unified Italian cuisine doesn’t exist in Italy, where regionality reigns supreme.…

Lots of chefs multitask, but how many can forge their own plates? Julian Hills, of new arrival Navi in Melbourne’s Yarraville, is a fine arts graduate turned hatted chef who crafts his own ceramic tableware. His refined designs are the perfect accompaniment to Navi’s innovative tasting menus. Pictured is the smoked bonito in beeswax, sea vegetables and honey dashi – on a custom plate. Navi is Hills’ first solo venture after Paringa Estate restaurant. TEA PARTY US retailer Anthropologie is a repository of exuberant homewares, such as this Gien tea set made in France. The tin-glazed earthenware collection is enlivened with a blend of floral and geometric patterns. It’s just the thing to transform your afternoon tea. MIDDLE FEAST ZAITOUN ($45, Bloomsbury) by Yasmin Khan is a dazzling celebration of…

REFRIGERATOR + SMART TECHNOLOGY SAMSUNG FAMILY HUB 634L FRENCH-DOOR REFRIGERATOR (SRF630BFH2, $5,499) With advanced cooling technology, and a 21.5-inch LED touchscreen that lets you do everything from order groceries to stream TV, the Samsung Family Hub refrigerator is as smart as it is chic. Voice-activated controls quickly adjust settings, make shopping lists and more, while food reminders help to minimise wastage. You can even check the contents of your fridge anytime through your smartphone or by using voice control. SMART ZONING The customisable Entertainer’s Drawer provides plenty of storage flexibility, thanks to its four pre-set temperature settings. With one touch, it can be optimised for fresh meat, poultry and fish, chilled beverages, deli foods or wine. INNOVATION Three built-in cameras allow you to see inside your Family Hub fridge on…

IF YOU’RE FEELING more stuffed than a centipede’s sock drawer after dining at Natural History Bar & Grill, spare a thought for the taxidermy. Yep, that’s right. As you ruminate on your rare hanger steak, an array of former foxes, mountain goats and peacocks – stuffed and mounted – peer over your shoulder from inside a magical mural-meets-diorama glass terrarium. Created by artist Vanja Zaric, it certainly raises the stakes for a point-of-difference dining environment. Natural History, from the 100 Burgers Group, is housed in a former ’40s bank on Melbourne’s busy Collins Street and fashioned on the ideals of New York’s Grand Central Oyster Bar. The steakhouse, designed by Michael Delany and Jamie Wirth, is of gargantuan proportions – some 350 seats. As such, there are different areas, experiences…

STOP FOR ONE MOMENT and think of all the amazing food that Italy has gifted the world… then ask yourself: among all that great deliciousness, what would be the greatest dish? Certainly, if you look at Google, pizza (203 million hits) and pasta (131 million) dominate. But these are hardly dishes, more groups of dishes. There are problems with the next big pollers, too. Spaghetti bolognese (85 million hits) is a clear favourite, but many food historians question whether it is really Italian. Bizarrely, the words ‘chicken’ and ‘risotto’ together register more hits (49.4 million) than just ‘risotto’ (48.7 million), which throws my methodology in a spin and draws a question mark over who is counting hits at Google! (For the entire Top 30 Italian Dishes, head to delicious.com.au.) This…

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“SICILY GAVE US CASSATA, GELATO AND CANNOLI – BUT THE SWEET HISTORY OF THE ISLAND EXTENDS FAR BEYOND THESE GEMS. ITS ECLECTIC FLAVOURS ARE A SIGN OF THE MANY CULTURES THAT HAVE EXISTED ON ITS SOIL, FROM THE SPICES OF NORTH AFRICA TO THE CHOCOLATE OF SPAIN.” FLOURLESS ORANGE CAKE WITH SALTED MARSALA CARAMEL SERVES 10-12 Begin this recipe 3 hours ahead. 1 orange 1 cup (250ml) extra virgin olive oil 4 fresh medjool dates, stones removed 4 eggs 250g caster sugar 1/2 tsp ground cloves 4 cups (400g) almond meal Salt flakes and vanilla gelato, to serve MARSALA CARAMEL 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 1 cup (250ml) Marsala Place orange in a deep saucepan, cover with water and place a small plate on top to keep the orange submerged.…

I MAKE MY WAY to the small town of Castel di Sangro in central Italy’s Abruzzo region, home to three-Michelin-starred restaurant Reale. Framed by lush pasture, mountains and the Adriatic Sea, it’s in stark contrast to the Mediterranean coastline I’ve just left behind. It’s autumn, and much to my delight, the countryside is blooming with local saffron, the bright-purple flowers with their highly prized orange stamens flooding fields ahead of harvest. Casadonna Reale is an extraordinary hilltop destination set in a 16th-century monastery that has been converted into a luxe hotel, restaurant Reale (recently awarded number 36 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) and food laboratory, conceived through the vision of chef-owner Niko Romito and his sister, Cristiana Romito. The hotel feels contemporary, with its pared-back design and interior…

Rome may be Italy’s capital, but Bologna is deemed by many as its culinary centre. It’s no accident that the city’s nickname is La Grassa (the fat): spend more than a few days here and it won’t just be your suitcase that comes home a couple of kilos heavier! For many years, Bologna was given the cold shoulder by tourists in favour of glamour destinations such as Rome, Florence and Venice. These days, however, appreciation for the regional variations in Italian food has made the city a mecca for in-the-know travellers keen to experience the rich delights of the region. Favourites such as tortellini, mortadella and, of course, that famous tagliatelle al ragù (bolognese sauce) make Bologna a must for food lovers. The city is also the original college town,…

At 35 weeks pregnant, my husband and I prematurely welcomed our first baby into the world. Our daughter needed extended care in the neonatal ward, while I was allowed to go home a few days post birth. On my to-do list remained meal prep for when baby shifted our priorities. The day I was discharged, the June 2018 issue of delicious. was waiting in the letterbox. So between hospital visits, I took the opportunity to feel somewhat more organised and sent hubby to the shops for ingredients. We made Mexican black bean and corn nachos (Matt Preston, p 97), freezing the bean mix for quick dinners, used up close-to-expiry milk to make baked saffron kheer with saffron and vanilla pears (On Trend, p 114) and made the curry component of…

INSALATA TRICOLORE (THREE-COLOUR SALAD) SERVES 6 1 fennel, very thinly sliced (we used a mandoline), fronds reserved 1/4 red cabbage, shredded 100g wild rocket 50g finely grated Pecorino Romano Chopped roasted hazelnuts, to serve DRESSING 1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar 1 small garlic clove, crushed 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp lemon juice 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil For the dressing, combine vinegar, garlic, mustard and lemon juice in a bowl, then gradually whisk in oil in a thin, steady stream until well combined. In a large bowl, combine fennel, cabbage and rocket. Scatter over pecorino and hazelnuts, and drizzle with one-third dressing. Serve with remaining dressing. “CACIO E PEPE IS ARGUABLY THE MOST CLASSIC ROMAN RECIPE YOU’LL COME ACROSS. I THINK THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE…

Ciao Cielo, a dramatic new Italian restaurant in Port Melbourne, is the only way to do jury duty. That’s because it unfolds in a heritage courthouse adapted for epicurean pursuits. Architects Atelier Wagner added soaring pendants, blue leather booths and a stone bar to the 1860 sandstone structure. Chef Bryan Nelson is offering a modern spin on traditional dishes such as Sardinian goat leg, squid ink linguini, and ox cheek. An adjoining restaurant, Ciao Cucina, specialises in woodfired pizzas.…

I OFTEN BUY more than I need at the market, so I end up with lots of produce in the fridge, some becoming overripe. Recently, I made a parmigiana di melanzane with 3 eggplants, 6 overripe tomatoes, some bocconcini di mozzarella and slices of double-smoked ham. To make it yourself, slice eggplants lengthwise, 4-5mm thick, lightly salt and set aside. Heat1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil in a large saucepan. Add 1 finely chopped onion and 1 crushed garlic clove. Add diced tomato and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20-30 minutes or until sauce is thickened and tomato is broken down. Season and add some fresh basil leaves. Set aside. Heat 1cm sunflower oil in a large frypan over high heat. Shallow-fry eggplant and drain on paper towel. Spread sauce…

PARISH HILL LAMBRUSCO 2016, $35 From the Adelaide Hills, a seemingly unlikely place for lambrusco, comes this excellent, frothy, dark-fruited version. Very fragrant and loaded with sweet-spicy fruit character, it’s really moreish stuff. Try it with hard cheese and dried fruit. CHALMERS LAMBRUSCO 2014, $43 Chalmers is renowned for its cultivation of Italian grape varieties, so it’s no surprise that lambrusco is in its collection of wines. This is a more mature, rich style; sort of like liquid Christmas pudding with bubbles, but fresher. Best with ham. DONELLI LAMBRUSCO NV, $12 Okay, so I likely will cop a bit of flak for recommending such a seemingly lowbrow version of lambrusco, but tasting through all the sub-$15 versions, a fresh, chilled bottle of this was a really easy pleasure. Just add…

THERE’S NO NEED TO buy ready-made gnocchi; making it yourself is not difficult, and this sweet potato version is a perfect example of just how easy it is. There are only five main ingredients for the gnocchi and you can serve it with almost any sauce or toppings to make the dish your own – the whole idea is to show you how versatile sweet potato is. For instance, enjoy it with passata and add some fresh basil and shaved parmesan, with pesto, or with just a simple aglio e olio (garlic and oil sauce). Here, I’ve given it some richness using a brown butter sauce and little pops of gorgonzola, with walnuts to add crunch and balance the flavour. The natural sweetness of the sweet potato pairs beautifully with…

‘BLOOD IS THICKER than water’ is a term no one may understand better than the Grossi clan. To call the Melbourne hospitality empire led by chef Guy a family affair would be a gross understatement; every member of the Grossi brood is involved in the flourishing business. While working with family is typically avoided, Guy believes the success of the group’s Italian restaurants (now six in number) would not have been possible without their involvement. “This is very much a family business,” he insists, admitting that bickering tends to come with the territory. “But making up is always nice.” The Grossi gang recently congregated over a leisurely Italian lunch in Melbourne, to celebrate their latest venture: Perth restaurant Garum. The Roman-inspired eatery marks the group’s first expansion into Western Australia…

EVERY TIME I THINK about Italian cooking, I imagine bubbling pots of sugo al pomodoro (tomato sugo) or bright handfuls of basil being pounded into pesto. Sauces have the power to connect elements in a dish like no other. Imagine a fettuccine con pesto without, well, the pesto? It’s a dish’s sauce that speaks so loudly of a region or place. Drizzle fish with beurre blanc, you’re in France; baste chicken in chermoula, you’re in North Africa, or toss spaghetti with sugo al pomodoro and you’re in Italy. Sauces lift a meal into something truly special. These Italian ones celebrate regions and recipes across the nation and will make you cry “delizioso!” @charliebmcd SCALLOP, PANCETTA AND BEANS WITH SALMORIGLIO SAUCE SERVES 4 A smack-of-lemon condiment from Sicily, salmoriglio sauce is…

PASTA IS A FEELING as well as a fuel. In our opinion there is nothing quite so satisfying as a bowl of hot pasta clinging to a rich, intense sauce – from the aroma of the sauce warming in the pan, the look of a dish, to that first bite into al dente pasta that slides easily from fork to mouth. From a lifetime travelling around Italy and cooking Italian food, we have collected countless recipes and a wealth of experiences. In most households you will find ragu or tomato sauce in the fridge. We sometimes have a ball of leftover pasta dough, so all I need to do is roll it through the pasta machine and drop the strands into boiling water for a couple of minutes to make…

CHASING THE SUN to a European summer is a favourite Australian pastime for good reason. For me, all roads led to Italy. To swim in the salty Mediterranean, enjoy aperitivo and graze on homemade Italian food was just the restorative tonic I needed. I hopped from Sardinia to Sicily, then on to the lesser-known, more humble island of Salina. Here, I discovered that a simpler, slower-paced lifestyle is sometimes all that is needed… besides the warm sun and a day bed, of course. Salina is one of seven charming ‘sisters’ of the Aeolian Islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea, north of Sicily. Part of a UNESCO World Heritage Centre, the archipelago also includes Lipari, Vulcano, Alicudi, Filicudi, Panarea and Stromboli, which all have their own unique forms (two of the islands…

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