Innehållsförteckning för July 2021 från Wallpaper

Rolex’s history of creating tool watches can be traced back to the 1930s when the timepieces it provided to explorers became an integral part of an expedition’s kit. In 1953, when Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Mount Everest, it was with white ‘Oyster Perpetual’ watches on their wrists. Building on this success, Rolex released the first ‘Explorer’ watch later the same year. The toughened case and clear design codes are still present in today’s ‘Oyster Perpetual Explorer’, with the three, six and nine numerals making for quick and easy legibility. The ‘Explorer’ has been bulked up over time, but this year’s model, equipped with calibre 3230, cuts a neater silhouette, returning to its original 1953 case size of a restrained 36mm. Its smaller proportions are drawn…

The world’s most iconic perfume, Chanel No.5, celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. Like all of Coco Chanel’s memorable creations, No.5 broke with the traditions of the time to create a new norm. In 1921, ‘soliflores’ perfumes, or fragrances that smell like a single flower, were the industry standard. Chanel wanted to stretch the boundaries of perfumery and create a scent that could not be attributed to any one thing in nature. As she told her perfumer, Ernest Beaux, No.5 should be ‘an artificial fragrance like a dress, something crafted’. The result was a revolution in perfumery that blended more than 80 scents, including jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood and May rose, with an unprecedented amount of aldehydes, the organic compounds that amplify a fragrance’s olfactory profile. The minimal, square bottle, with…

A recent trend has seen architects venturing into the world of beauty and grooming, applying their knowledge of structure and form to everything from skincare packaging to facial rollers. Ever the innovator, Japanese architect Kengo Kuma made a bold statement in 2018 with his packaging design for Aman Resorts’ first skincare line. The design reflected Kuma’s mastery of natural materials and organic shapes, creating structures that integrated themselves into their environment rather than imposing themselves upon it. His packaging for Aman is made out of a veined, black material that echoes burnt timber or black marble, and is rendered in curved, voluminous forms, a break from the linear lines of most beauty containers. Like Kuma, Austrian architect Oskar Leo Kaufmann channelled his preference for natural materials into the black obsidian…

As travel restrictions are relaxed this summer, those who have not travelled for a while are in for some testing times. Preparations for international trips have got a lot more complicated, and you should expect endless paperwork and last-minute rule changes. The numerous tests required and quarantine rules may deter many from even considering the undertaking, and judging by the number of calls I am receiving from very seasoned travellers, taking off is a serious source of anxiety. In May last year, I had to travel for work – to Italy to shoot a portfolio of images for Armani Casa (W*257). That involved flying from London to Milan, via Frankfurt, and a costly three-and-a-half-hour chauffeur drive on to Florence, due to train travel restrictions, followed by 14 days’ quarantine before…

For stockists throughout, see page 145 1. ‘SIDEWAYS’ SOFA by Rikke Frost, for Carl Hansen & Søn Danish designer Rikke Frost saw the potential to foster conversation when creating this sofa for Carl Hansen & Son. Its steam-bent backrest and curving cushions produce an asymmetric shape that envelopes the sitters, while creating a cosy nook for a good old chat. A prototype of the sofa was developed in just three weeks as part of a TV show, Denmark’s Next Classic, in which contestants compete to create new designs that could become classics in the coming years. The details have subsequently been fine-tuned. From £4,931, carlhansen.com 2. ‘DIVIDE IT’ ROOM DIVIDER by Pitsou Kedem, for MDF Italia Over the past year, our living spaces have become our work spaces, and our…

1. ‘15:3’ DESK LIGHT by Nicole Lawrence This LED light was created by Nicole Lawrence for a Melbourne Design Week show that invited designers to reimagine objects and components collecting dust in their studios as something new. The Melbourne-based industrial designer, known for her soft lines and curvy designs, had plenty of discarded elements to work with in her Northcote studio. She rose to the challenge, creating a series of desk lights, including this steel, aluminium and glass design, named after the proportion of reused to new components used to produce it. From A$1,220 (£680), nicolelawrence.online 2. ‘POV’ TABLE AND STOOL by Kaschkasch, for Ton Designed by the Colognebased studio Kaschkasch, and produced by Czech bentwood specialists Ton, the ‘POV’ collection of tables comes in two heights, three base types…

‘LAUSANNE’ KITCHEN by Eggersmann German kitchen specialist Eggersmann is known for its beautifully crafted, minimalist designs, now including the new ‘Lausanne’ cabinets. Featuring fronts with vertical wooden slats in silver oiled oak, they are individually adjusted – with millimetre precision of course – to fit perfectly around each built-in appliance. The striking design can be combined with solid wood countertops as well as gleaming stainless steel surfaces. eggersmann.com ‘ISØLA’ KITCHEN by Carlo Colombo, for Rossana Having presented its first model at New York’s MoMA in 1972, the Italian brand Rossana knows a thing or two about kitchen islands. Its latest cutting-edge design, by architect Carlo Colombo, is a sculptural creation available in a range of stones, including Melbourne and Aria marble, and Zebrato granite. The kitchen is divided by vertical…

For stockists, see page 145 Quintessentially British yet universally appealing. What can be said of Peter Blake’s pop art is equally applicable to his favourite dish, which he insists must be created with ‘white crusty bread, Heinz beans and HP sauce’. His devotion to this precise formula echoes his rigorous approach to collage, made famous by his album covers for The Beatles and The Who, but equally groundbreaking in the worlds of painting and sculpture. ‘Peter Blake: Time Traveller’ is at Waddington Custot, 18 June-13 August, waddingtoncustot.com…

Two new tableware collections from Cassina, made in collaboration with Ginori 1735, pay homage to the purist style of Le Corbusier. The first, a set of three platters in white unglazed porcelain, take inspiration from some of the symbolic bas-relief designs that appear at Chandigarh, the modernist Indian city designed by the architect in the 1950s. The three platters feature a fish (round), a sun (rectangular) and an open hand, symbolising peace (square). The second, featuring an interlocking hands motif, was originally created in 1961 for the Prunier restaurant in London’s St James’s, and has been reissued, remaining as true to the original design as possible. To complement these minimalist gems, we have used them to serve up a cornucopia of cicchetti (Venetian bar snacks similar in concept to Spanish…

The fashion logo has always been big business, but it gained even more cultural cachet for S/S21 when a number of brands looked back into their archives to bring new life to idiosyncratic motifs. Among them was Givenchy with its new creative director Matthew M Williams, the designer behind cult streetwear-centric brand 1017 Alyx 9SM, who took on the role last year. When Williams was considering the codes synonymous with the illustrious French maison, he too honed in on the brand’s emblem. Givenchy’s new ‘4G’ bag features a central hardware fastening composed of a signature geometric motif, formed from a pattern of four sans serif ‘G’s, the striking jewellery-like closure reflecting Williams’ fascination with industrial hardware. If a logo sparks meaningful brand associations, then the ‘4G’ – a name with…

As unconventional as it was reliable, Zenith’s ‘Defy’ watch first appeared in the 1960s, marrying a futuristic design with a tough titanium case. Now, the ‘Defy Extreme’ builds on these foundations, keeping the original’s angular case and faceted bezel with 12-sided ring, but rethinking key design codes. Dubbed a watch for all terrain, it is a modern rethink of the classic adventurer’s watch. ‘It has been radically modernised with regard to proportions, architecture, materials and finish,’ says Romain Marietta, Zenith’s product development and heritage director. Legibility is a crucial component of the new design, which features a tinted sapphire dial providing optimum clarity. ‘We have a special dial made out of sapphire for two reasons: the possibility of admiring our mechanism and for maximised legibility,’ says Marietta. ‘The central part…

1. ‘N02 RECYCLE’ CHAIR by Nendo, for Fritz Hansen Not only is this elegant, stackable chair made from upcycled household plastic, it can also be recycled again if necessary. Designed by Japanese studio Nendo for Fritz Hansen, the backrest of the chair is based simply on a crease in a piece of paper, and provides extra support for the upper and lower back. As an homage to Fritz Hansen’s Danish roots, the chair comes in seven colours inspired by the earthy, warm tones of Scandinavian landscapes, including orange, dark blue and pale grey, and is available in four-legged, sledge and swivel base versions. From £277, fritzhansen.com 2. ‘CYCNUS’ PENDANT by AYTM In Greek mythology, the name Cycnus was often given to characters who were, at some point in the story,…

1. ‘WAVE’ BENCH by Lanzavecchia + Wai, for De Castelli The act of arriving home is taken to a ritualistic level by Lanzavecchia + Wai with the ‘Wave’ bench. It’s based on a shoe bench, which the design studio describes as a ‘quintessential’ piece of Asian furniture, given the custom of removing shoes before entering the home. The bench incorporates space to sit down and store bags and shoes, as well as a pocket emptier plate, and it has been made from copper, which has intentionally been left untreated so that it will age and reflect the routines of its users over time. €12,300, decastelli.com 2. ‘LE’ LIGHTS by Örn Duvald, for Åben Danish-Icelandic design duo Orn Duvald set themselves the task of creating the most ‘simple, elegant and versatile…

For stockists, see page 145 1. ‘PURIST’ FREESTANDING BATH by Cocoon Frequently collaborating with the likes of Piet Boon and John Pawson, Dutch bathroom brand Cocoon creates ranges that are both contemporary and timeless. Its ‘Purist’ range of baths and basins includes this freestanding tub, with recessed drain, available in a choice of nine natural stones and marbles. Perfect for those with an eye for industrial minimalism but a love of luxurious wallowing, its pure geometric form ticks a lot of visual boxes while the smoothness of the stone makes bath time a comforting treat. From €18,000, bycocoon.com 2. ‘ALLURE’ THREEHOLE BASIN MIXER by Grohe Forming part of Grohe’s new Spa collection, which launches in September, the ‘Allure’ tap range matches cylindrical bodies with square or rectangular base plates, and…

Models: Hody Yim at Milk Management, Keyla Harewood at Wilhelmina London. Casting director: Roxane Dia. Hair: Nao Kawakami at The Wall Group using Leonor Greyl. Make-up: Nicola Brittin at Saint Luke using Shiseido. Set design: Kei Yoshino at Bryant Artists. Interiors: Olly Mason. Digi tech/photography assistant: Laura Heckford. Fashion assistant: Sammiey Hughes. Set design assistant: Alice Whittick. Post-production: Jon Hempstead…

Taking inspiration from how the French carry bread under their arm, Fendi’s luxurious take on its classic ‘Baguette’ bag sees it rigidly reimagined in Plexiglas with a pristine pearlescence. As well as being slotted under the arm, it can also be carried hands-free with a cross shoulder strap. We think this style has something of the luxurious lunchbox about it. But before you close its metal ‘FF’ logo clasp, just make sure your snacks are firmly wrapped in clingfilm.…

How we will dress post-pandemic has been the subject of much debate. Will we usher in a new era of drama and decadence, or will the low-key leanings of the past year be here to stay? We recommend riffing between the two mindsets, and modulating between the elegant and the easy. A surefire way to succeed? Sporting a knee-length tunic dress over trousers. The tunic-over-trousers trick is a smart yet insouciant move for those not quite ready to don a dress. For those with a more minimalist mindset, Hermès’ pared-back take features a dress with a built-in scarf, and nods to the purist fashion mood of the 1990s, when elemental design was a winner. At Boss, dress silhouettes sport sleekly seductive cut-out back details, a look well balanced out when…

PICKY NICKY’S TIPS FOR PANDEMIC TRAVELLING Always carry a pen for filling in documents; no one wants to share pens anymore. Keep your phone battery well charged; you may be asked to provide a confirmation, receipt or email. Be ready with your mask. Mine is from Sébline, in double poplin with space for a medical-grade filter. Some airlines insist on medical-grade masks. Try one with a KN95 respirator, in espresso, maroon or dove grey, from Kaze. Spritz some Perfumer H Cucumber or Orange Flower Mask First-Aid to help make this new necessity much more pleasurable. Carry a small blanket. The dog blanket from Connolly (way too good for a dog) is just 125 x 80cm, small enough for your bag (I’m very partial to one from Álvaro), large enough to…

1. ‘CHATA’ LAMP by Goula/Figuera, for Gofi Gofi’s designers, Alvaro Goula and Pablo Figuera, are on a mission to bring back lampshades. Proving a warm counterpart to what they describe as the ‘extreme minimalism’ associated with LED technology, the Spanish duo crafted a simple yet elegant LED lamp with a white linen shade and either a natural oak or Sierra Elvira marble base. Viewed face on, the lampshade appears cubic, but it’s surprisingly flat, which not only allows it to be placed on shallow shelves or near the wall on a table, but also inspired the name ‘Chata’, which means both ‘flat’ and ‘beloved’ in Spanish. €440, gofi.es 2. ‘WG.C1.C’ MIRROR by Mirrors Collective This is one of seven designs in the ‘Wrong Geometries’ collection from Mirrors Collective, which made…

1. ‘LIZ’ ARMCHAIR by Ludovica + Roberto Palomba, for Expormim Spanish brand Expormim’s ‘Liz’ armchair looks snug enough to be an indoor chair, but is made to withstand the outdoor elements. Designed by Ludovica and Roberto Palomba, the chair pays homage ‘to the sensual and captivating forms of the cinema icon Liz Taylor’, and features a frame of high-resistance aluminium tubing with die-cast aluminium legs and durable, weather-resistant fabric upholstery, available in a wide range of colours, as well as one plush seat cushion and one loose one. So, rain or shine, we’ll be sitting comfortably. Price on request, expormim.com 2. ‘LADY GALALA’ LAMP by Peluffo & Partners, for Martinelli Luce Conceived in a tent on Egypt’s Mount Galala, this suspension lamp consists of a resin body, to which can…

Wallpaper* subscribers enjoy exclusive, limited-edition, artist-designed covers To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub21 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100 / $140 / €180 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes 31 October 2021. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

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