Innehållsförteckning för March 2023 från Getaway

Well rested and ready to hit day two in uMhlanga, there’s much to do. If you didn’t explore the promenade on Day 1, today’s the day. Follow your nose towards the scent of salt. The promenade is about a fiveminute walk from Daily Dose. Keep an eye out for the uMhlanga Pier. It’s hard to miss with its grand, whaleboneshaped arches that frame the 80m landmark (umhlangaarch.co.za) From here, you can stroll for kilometres along a brick pathway with the rhythmic ‘shhh’ of the Indian Ocean’s waves as your soundtrack. There are multiple entries to the beach along the promenade, so pack a cozzie if you fancy a swim. The foodie scene in this holiday enclave just north of Durban has recently grown exponentially. Visit Shoots and Leaves on The…

BRIEFS Here and Now END OF AN ERA After more then half a century, the last Boeing 747 rolled off the production line on 6 December 2022, for Atles Air. It came off the 40-22 line at the company’s Everett site, north of Seattle, the same place as the first 747 on 30 September 1968. The last 747 is a freight aircraft; the last passenger iteration - a 747-8i for Korean Air - rolled off the line on 10 May 2017. With origins dating back to the mid-1960s as military transport, the 747 became the world’s first widebody passenger jet. It went on to be used as a transport plane, loved for its ability to carry heavy loads over long distances. This last plane has 8 010km of range and can…

PHOTOGRAPHY Portfolio I’m always fascinated by how nature continues to thrive, regardless of development and “damage” to the natural environment. It just seems to exist and grow and adapt, unlike humans, regardless of climate change, it just…carries on,’ says Rizqah (Ricky) Dollie. ‘I often feel like I photograph mountains and rocks and ground quite often, and indiginous plants. I think it speaks to…what has always existed, ancient tongues of what was always on the land and what will always be there, regardless of how much damage we do as humans. ‘I feel like the mountains are representative of us, as humans, in the society in which we live, because their edges are so juxtaposed against all of the other softness, and especially in a country like South Africa - if…

TRAVEL Northern Kruger 'Stop!’ The cruiser judders to a halt. Long braids swaying, Shiluva turns back to see what in particular has captured our attention. Click. Eland moving into the shade of a rocky ridge, baobabs sprouting from basalt rocks, sculptures against the sky. Click, click. To the right, a bull elephant rubbing against the trunk of a nyala tree. Baboons foraging in the shadows. Click, click. It’s late September, the hot air perfumed by woolly caper bushes, thorny branches in full floral display. From a copse of bush willows, the call of a black-headed oriel, mellifluous as a flute. ‘This really is the Garden of Eden, isn’t it?’ some idiot says. It might even have been me. Shiluva, not the only one who has heard this before, laughs. ‘All…

TRAVEL | Kruger We were home: 10 days of exploring Kruger National Park in a campervan meant 1 000km and six camps, with two young children in the back. Sanne (7) may have had a blue waxbill nesting in her hair. Bram (5) trailed bits of stick that he’d collected throughout our trip. There was a mountain of washing. And a couple of insect bites of unknown origin. But so many memories were made. And I wasn’t exhausted. Okay, maybe I was a little exhausted. But that’s parenting, right? Our children have been to Kruger dozens of times. We make regular day trips from Hoedspruit, where we’ve lived for 12 years. We’ve camped and stayed in everything from SANParks tents and chalets to the largest guesthouses and private lodges. But…

TRAVEL The Berg We are so spoilt,’ I tell my children, sounding more like a stuck record each time. ‘Some countries are just sand and rocks, some are flat, some have no coastline. But we have mountains, forests, rivers, beaches. We live in such a great place. And you haven’t even scratched the surface of it.’ They roll their eyes, because…of course they do, they’ve heard it all before. And yet for all my preaching, I can’t help feeling like a bit of a fraud sometimes. Because the truth is, I haven’t even scratched the surface of it either. Despite my love for this land, there are so many things I haven’t seen - the Drakensberg, for one. And what self-respecting Getaway writer hasn’t seen the Drakensberg? And so, when…

GREATER KRUGER LUXURY Last Word Kitara is a five-star luxury lodge with pride of place on the banks of the beautiful Klaserie River in Greater Kruger. Here you will discover the true meaning of a ‘soul safari’. Unrushed, untouched, unrivalled. Last Word Kitara is a gem in the exclusive Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, the quintessential safari destination. Within this serene sanctuary you’ll find lovely people who invite curiosity and welcome conversation. Sit back and discover the world of free-roaming wildlife from the comfort of your private suite, inviting viewing deck or from the infinity pool overlooking the river. Last Word Kitara’s six spacious en suite rooms offer sweeping views of the pristine riverside setting. Drink in the tranquil bushscapes from your private balcony, and let the sounds of nature lull…

BACK PAGES World Wide Weird And Here's What You Said… Belinda Tshidi If they don’t have loadshedding then tomorrow I’m volunteering to be the first to move there! Jacques Meyer Even if we could travel at the speed of light, 100 years is a long time. If we travel at a more realistic speed (17km/s) it would take 1.7 million years to reach it. So don’t pack your bags just yet. Diane du Preez Let's look after this planet we already inhabit and stop looking elsewhere. Thobani Zuma Can I schedule a viewing for 3pm? Just finishing up some errands and I'll be free. Williams Solomons Ceci 100 light years! How many days of leave must I put in? Caught in the Web Ozone Recovery on Track A new UN…

Robyn Simpson 48 HOURS IN UMHLANGA (P 12) When she’s not chasing a hiker’s high or getting granny fingers in the sea, Robyn’s writing. Yes, adventurers who share their adventures aren’t always on the road. This makes this Cape {town} Etc editor a passionate weekend warrior. Once a year, she heads to KwaZulu-Natal to visit her family. Somewhat of an expert when it comes to squeezing the most fun out of two days, she shares how to do uMhlanga in 48 hours. Peter Frost MEET YOU IN THE ACCUBSEPS (P 104) Unexplored mountains, cheap coffee, weird wildlife, secret passes - Albania rarely makes it on to the trendy must-see lists but that, suggests Peter, is both a bonus and a challenge. The exdeputy editor of Men’s Health and Getaway returned…

For me, growing up in uMhlanga, in KwaZulu-Natal, is remembering: devouring litchis and mangos bought from the side of the road; my dad teaching me how to swim in the sea; and strolls along the promenade with my wire car made by a street vendor (you know, those ones with long handles that jingle as you push). It was the quintessential vacation town, chockful of visitors almost year-round taking advantage of the warm ocean and perfect weather. And I was lucky enough to live there permanently. Returning as an adult, the feeling of being on a perennial holiday remains, only there’s much more to see, do and eat… in addition to litchis and mangos.…

DESPATCHES Montagu If you stand in the middle of the intersection of Montagu’s Long and Church streets, you can view each of the four main styles of architecture found in the pretty old village (but be alert - Long Street is the R62, with cars whizzing past on the way to and from Oudtshoorn, along the world’s longest wine route). The small Western Cape town was founded on the farm Uitvlugt in 1851 and was originally not very imaginatively known as Agter Cogmans Kloof, as it was on the other side of the Cogmans Kloof. In the Cape Fold Belt, it is surrounded by the Langeberg, and is on the banks of the Keisie and Kingna rivers, which have their confluence in the town. Cogmans, incidentally, was a Khoi chiefdom…

PHOTOGRAPHY Gallery AFRICA’S PREMIER PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION FINALIST Category: Drone and Landscape Old Harbour Tucked into the picturesque coast of Hermanus, the tranquil old harbour served as the ideal subject for a mesmerising aerial photograph. During my lunch break spent working remotely in local coffee shops, I decided to take my drone for a spin and capture the serene beauty of the harbour from above. The crystal clear water, paired with the vibrant orange boats in the harbour, created a striking contrast that added dynamic appeal to the final image. This unique perspective perfectly encapsulates the charming essence of this coastal town. Ulrich Kotze, Cape Town DJl Mini 3 Pro; ISO 140; fl.7; 1/800s FINALIST Category: Wildlife Kicking Up Dust Living on a wildlife estate bordering the Greater Kruger, we have…

Campervan Specs Engine 2.8-litre turbo diesel engine Max Spaed 90-95km/h Transmission 6-speed manual gearbox Fuel consumption, combined 10 litres per 100km Fuel tank 70-litre Extras Cruise control, full air-conditioning with heat pump, power steering, electric windows, electric mirrors, dual airbags, CD player, fully equipped for four or six, including outdoor furniture We travelled in winter and so didn't test the aircon. We also didn’t drive it on a freeway or in the city. We rented our campervan from K2P Motorhomes. k2pmotorhomes.co.za GOOD TO KNOW Curious about Campervans? A caravan is towed behind your car while a campervan is something you can drive. The first self-converted campervan dates to 1935 and was commissioned by a naval aristocrat by the name of Captain Dunn, according to Van Clan. By the 1960s, two…

TRAVEL The Berg Do This Take a hike with fundi Jeremy Hollmann to the Game Pass rock art site in the Kamberg Nature Reserve in the central part of the Maloti-Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, where you can learn more about our ancestors. 066 377 6366, jeremyhollmannrockart.co.za The Himeville Museum is an interesting meander through the history of this splendid place. 033 7021184, himevillemuseum.co.za At the Leribe Craft Centre, women teach you about ageold traditions of weaving. You can buy their craftwork, too. Speak to Mrs Mojaje. +266 5877 0251, leribecraft@gmail.cam Some may say Afriski Mountain Resort is not challenging enough. We say, ski whenever you get the chance. 0861 237 4754, afriski.net Check In PREMIER RESORT SANI PASS I wish I'd got to explore more but we arrived late…

If you're planning on conquering uMhlanga in two days, a good coffee is essential to get you through. Daily Dose uMhlanga is the best spot to get a cuppa on the run - literally. It's more of a stand than a store and locals flock for the quality beans and lekker vibes. Pastries, biscuits and smoothies are also on the menu and there are umbrellas and benches for comfortable snacking. You’ll find it on the lawn along Durban View Road. It’s a favourite for locals who enjoy staying active and is the best pitstop before a walk along the uMhlanga Promenade. Dining with a sea view doesn’t get better than this. If it wasn’t for the promenade, La Spiaggia would, quite literally, be on uMhlanga Main Beach. I’ve been visiting…

There’s a helipad if the three-odd hour road trip from Joburg is toe arduous for you, but either way, you end up at Qwabi Private Game Reserve in the Waterberg, where Letamo Lodge is the newest addition to South Africa’s bush offerings. It’s big, it’s welcoming, it’s familyfriendly and it has a great pool over-looking a waterhole that is home to a pod of boisterous hippos. Letamo Lodge is the first of three that have jointly undergone a R120 million refurbishment in Qwabi, which means African wild cat in Sesotho. As you can expect, the suites are large and comfortable, the amenities top-notch. You can take a golf cart, driven by the ever-obliging crew of Qwabi drivers, from suite to lounge to pool, or walk. Take the walk; then you…

Travel and Destination Have you been to some distant shores with a camera in hand? Have you travelled to Mongolia in winter, Ireland in summer or Paternoster in spring? If you haven't travelled afar, don’t be deterred, we’re more interested in the image than the location. Drone and Landscape Photography With drone photography on the rise and the quality of landscape photography in South Africa particularly impressive, this is the place to see what bangers local talent is capturing. Wildlife Anything from feathers to fangs, our Getaway readers have been producing world-class wildlife images for more than 30 years. People and Culture Documentary photography is a challenging prospect but it is vital in telling important stories. What story do you want to tell and can you tell it in a…

FIELD NOTES | Kruger Back Roads GETTING THERE From Joburg and Pretoria, take the N1 towards Polokwane. Take the exit towards Tzaneen on the R71. Drive through Magoebaskloof, Tzaneen and Letsitele, then take a left turn at Gravelotte, remaining on the R71 to Kruger’s Phalaborwa Gate. Total distance: +/- 500km. NEED TO KNOW Stock up at the Spar or Woolworths in Phalaborwa, and fill up at the Total Masorini near the gate. The Mafunyane trip departs Phalaborwa Gate on a Thursday at noon, and ends at Punda Maria Rest Camp at approximately 10:30am on the following Sunday. Only five vehicles plus the guide vehicle are allowed at one time. The trip is unsupported, so you need to bring absolutely everything with you, from all food and cooking equipment to firewood,…

TRAVEL Northern Kruger Stay Here There are five privately managed lodges in the Pafuri Triangle: two in the Rare Earth portfolio: The Outpost and Pel’s Post, and three under the Return Africa umbrella: riverside Pafuri Tented Camp, rustic Pafuri Walking Safaris and the four-bedroom self-catering Baobab Hill House, this last from R32 000 a night, including two daily games drives. PAFURI TENTED CAMP has 19 large and very comfortable en suite tents ranged along the Luvuvhu River on raised wooden walkways and connected to the bush bar, swimming pool and al fresco dining area. Seven family tents comfortably sleep four. SA resident rate from 1 April is R4 850pp sharing including all meals, select drinks and game activities. returnafrica.com PAFURI WALKING SAFARIS comprises two exclusive-use camps - Hutwini and Nkula…

TRAVEL Albania Lifetimes ago, straight out of South African Christian National Education, a friend and I climbed on a TAP flight and headed to Europe: 1980, pre-internet, no cellphones - it could have been Pluto. White waiters, buildings older than Johannesburg, colours all together including rainbow. We separated in Dover; he headed back to London, and I set out across southern Europe on foot, hitching, aiming for Albania and the wildly evocative Accursed Mountains, chasing James Michener’s Drifters dream of an unknown future wrapped in a careless Balkan ideal. I got as far as Brindisi in Italy before falling in love, missing a ferry and making do with warm chinotto, an aromatic scirocco and a promise to cross the Adriatic, one day. Fast forward 35 years and that day arrived.…

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