Table of contents for August 31, 2023 in Wine Spectator

Wine In the Windy City My wife and I finally had the chance to attend a Wine Spectator Grand Tour event, in Chicago. We had a blast. It was a wonderful experience, and we especially enjoyed interacting with winemakers and some of the Wine Spectator editors. We had the chance to meet senior editor Aaron Romano, as well as Giulia Cecchi from Castello di Monsanto, and share with them our common passion for wine. It was our first Grand Tour, but it definitely will not be our last. Francisco Plaza Novi, Mich. First-Growth Fallout Hooray to James Molesworth for maintaining high standards in your blind tastings and not yielding to the firstgrowth mafia (Columns, March 31). I would never purchase one of their grands vins. They are totally out of…

The Loire Valley lost one of its iconic winemakers with the passing of Jacky Blot on May 15 after a brief battle with cancer. He was 75. Widely credited with uplifting the reputation of Montlouis and the entire Loire Valley, Blot crafted some of the French region’s most concentrated and complex Chenin Blancs, championing a new completely dry, terroir-driven style. “Jacky was one of France’s great growers and one of the most generous, kindest human beings I’ve ever met,” said David Hinkle of Skurnik Wines & Spirits, Blot’s longtime U.S. importer. “He touched so many people with his passion and infectious enthusiasm and has left an incalculable imprint on the history of wine.” Blot began his career in the French military as a parachutist before becoming a wine broker in…

A mong America’s masters of Italian cuisine, Paul Bartolotta stands out for the particularly strong connections he’s forged—both personal and professional—to his ancestral homeland. So when we inquired about arancini (“little oranges” in Italian), the stuffed fried rice croquettes that are a traditional street food favorite, it was no surprise he readily responded with an authentic and delicious family-inspired recipe. “I have memories of sitting at the kitchen table as a small boy while my grandmother Nonna Federica made arancini,” Bartolotta recalls. “After she died, my father made them 10, maybe 15 times over the years. I can still taste them.” Federica immigrated to Milwaukee from the northern Sicily coastal town of Santo Stefano di Camastra, where Bartolotta is now considered a favorite son. In his 20s, he spent nearly seven…

Climate change is by now a well-known bogeyman for wine producers around the world. In Burgundy, despite some warmer years beginning with the 1990 vintage, it has been in the past 20 years that significant changes have gripped the region. The 2003 growing season made a huge impact, catching a lot of growers off guard and scurrying to begin picking, while desperately attempting to rent refrigerated trucks to transport grapes from the vineyards to the cellars. At the time, it was the earliest harvest since 1893. Some estates began picking just after mid-August, while others waited it out for much-needed rain that finally came at month’s end, refreshing the vines. In a column on WineSpectator.com in January 2005 titled “Burgundy Breaks the Rules,” I wrote, “Forget everything you know about…

TAKE THE PLUNGE Treat yourself to a menu upgrade—whether truffles, caviar or paired wines. The memory of these luxe options will live on long after the credit card statement. BE DEMANDING Or at least let the staff know of your dislikes. Keller is emphatic that his kitchen is incredibly nimble and wants every diner to have the best experience. If you’re not a fan of lamb, trust that he is more than happy to make a menu swap. BUT BE HONEST Never say you have an allergy when you simply don’t like something. Allergies are taken very seriously and send the kitchen into high alert. If you don’t like a food, no one is judging you, says Keller. EAT YOUR VEGETABLES The vegetarian tasting menu has exciting options. Many diners elect to mix…

SALAD OF BEETS, APPLES, WALNUTS AND ENDIVES Do Ahead* ROASTED BEETS AND CURLED ENDIVES 4 to 6 large red beets, or about 1 ½ pounds2 tablespoons grapeseed or avocado oil1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon shallots, finely minced2 heads Belgian endives¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup red wine vinegar1 ½ teaspoons Diamond Crystal brand kosher salt, divided among steps 2 and 5¼ cup water 1. Preheat oven to 350° F. Trim the root end from the endives and remove any damaged outer leaves. Separate the large outer leaves from the core, reserving the core for another use. Cut the leaves lengthwise down the center, then put them in ice water and refrigerate overnight to crisp and curl them. 2. Rinse the beets well, then trim away any bits of root or…

In the pages that follow, you’ll find listings for all of the restaurants that earned a Wine Spectator award for their wine program in 2023. We hope you’ll give them a try. Details for all winners are searchable at WineSpectator.com/Restaurants. ABOUT THE AWARD LEVELS To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered. Lists that meet these requirements are judged for one of our three awards. AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2,001 winners These wine lists, which typically offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style.…

ALLEGRO RESTAURANT Royal Princes, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 AMALFI RESTAURANT Enchanted Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 BORDEAUX RESTAURANT Island Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 BOTTICELLI RESTAURANT Emerald Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 BOTTICELLI RESTAURANT Grand Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 BUTCHER’S CUT MSC Seascape, MSC Cruises; (41) 76-349-31-19 CAGNEY’S STEAKHOUSE Norwegian Encore; (866) 234-7350 CIELO RESTAURANT Sky Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 COMPASS ROSE Seven Seas Explorer, Regent Seven Seas Cruises; (855) 900-4095 CONCERTO RESTAURANT Regal Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 COSMOPOLITAN Summit, Celebrity Cruises; (800) 647-2251 CYPRUS Apex, Celebrity Cruises; (800) 647-2251 DAVINCI RESTAURANT Crown Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 ESTRELLA RESTAURANT Discovery Princess, Princess Cruises; (800) 774-6237 FINE CUT Apex, Celebrity Cruises; (800) 647-2251 FINE CUT Ascent, Celebrity Cruises; (800) 647-2251 FINE CUT Beyond, Celebrity Cruises; (800) 647-2251…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How We Do…

ARGENTINA 94 Bodega Piedra Negra Chacayes Los Chacayes 2019 $120 An extroverted red that throws off an array of allspice berry, dried violet and floral blueberry aromas, while the palate reveals a muscular side, offering concentrated mace-accented blackberry, plum and dark chocolate flavors. Culminates with broad, chalky tannins, nice length and an echo of geranium. Malbec and Côt. Best after 2025. 600 cases made, 150 cases imported.—A.R. 93 Bodega Colomé Malbec Calchaquí Valley El Arenal Single Vineyard 2020 $62 This has an intriguing citrus-marinated olive note to the ripe mission fig and blackberry flavors, which come together nicely on a plush frame, with floral and pepper details chiming in. Despite the ripe profile, the finish is surprisingly fresh, offering mountain herb and slate details around wellstructured tannins. Drink now through 2030.…

Other 94 Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Pfalz Kasta nienbusch GG 2020 $150 Firm, dense and focused, this is screaming with mineral energy. Packs green herb and crisp apple notes that emerge from a bed of crushed flint, singed sage and bay leaf. Smoky and compact, with nice fattiness on the palate, this is driven by electric lemon-lime acidity. Linear and serious, with a long life ahead in the cellar. Best from 2025 through 2040.—K.B. 94 Pfeffingen Riesling Pfalz Herrenberg GG 2020 $70 Distinctive and impressive, with serious structure and power. This is more savory than fruit-driven, with a pronounced green herbaceous undercurrent layered with Key lime, apple, smoked agave and bitter preserved lime. A wine for the cellar, thanks to white tea tannins and electric acidity. Shows warm earth and incense…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 98 Abreu Las Posadas Howell Mountain 2018 $650 See Collectibles, page 129. 97 Abreu Thorevilos Napa Valley 2018 $650 See Collectibles, page 130. 96 Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 $395 See Highly Recommended, page 129. 96 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Kronos Vineyard 2019 $225 See Highly Recommended, page 129. 94 J.H. Wheeler Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard 2019 $225 Ripe but fresh, with nice lift from a sweet bay leaf note amid the core of warmed cassis and blackberry preserves. Stays sleek through the finish, with a buried iron note peeking through the delicious fruit. Nicely done. Best from 2024 through 2038. 304 cases made.—J.M. 94 J.H. Wheeler Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard 2019 $225 A rock-solid…

This issue of Wine Spectator is very special to me. First, it brings chef Thomas Keller to our cover once again. Wine Spectator has chronicled Keller’s career for decades. For anyone not familiar with his fascinating story and rise to fame, I suggest you read our April 2010 cover story, available to members of Wine Spectator.com. The short version is that few chefs have achieved the respect of serious diners in the way he has with his one-of-a-kind restaurant in Napa Valley: The French Laundry. Those of us who have had the opportunity to experience his unique style are among his greatest admirers. Whenever my wife, Hazel, and I visit the French Laundry, I pinch myself. Lucky us! Fortunately, Keller has continued to expand his operation and now counts great…

Those who’ve been enjoying copious amounts of dry pink French wine this summer may be surprised to learn that 2022 was plagued by record-setting drought and extreme heat. How is it that the country’s driest year on record produced rosés with such impressive freshness and energy? Yet this is indeed what was revealed in a tasting of more than 80 rosés from across the south of France, the world’s top source for rosé in both quantity and prestige. From Provence, Bandol, the Languedoc, Tavel and Côtes du Rhône, vignerons crafted refreshing, vibrant wines in a range of styles worth exploring. “The 2022 rosés are really balanced and interesting—the aromatic complexity especially stands out,” says Alban Cacaret of Château Peyrassol in Côtes de Provence, with no small amount of relief. “It…

Winemaker Marco Cappelli gave up “the bright lights of Napa Valley” for the serenity of the Sierra Foothills some 20 years ago. He was ready for a new challenge after 17 years as winemaker at Swanson Vineyards and wanted to build something to call his own. He began with farming his own small vineyard in the Sierra Foothills, supplementing the expense with consulting winemaker jobs in the area. Now, two decades later, Cappelli has taken on a yet another new challenge: Cappelli Wine, a winery and tasting room in the California Gold Country town of Placerville. Introducing a concept fairly unique in America, the project takes inspiration from the Old World to create distinctive value in California. The idea is to offer regional wines that customers can sample from keg…

The 6’2” Keller appears lean and energetic, much younger than his 67 years. And even in the flurry of evening service he exudes a calm presence with his warm smile, taking time to extend a gentle hand on the shoulder as he greets guests. His own preferences, like the Ōra King salmon, informed his menu for Wine Spectator. “I know it’s healthy for me, but more than that I just love it. I love the texture. I love the fattiness of it, the flavor of it. Everything about this salmon really resonates with me,” he says. As a protein source, salmon ranks second only to eggs for Keller. He starts each day with two 7-minute eggs, peels them under water, mashes them up with a few spoonfuls of extra-virgin olive…

If Zinfandel lovers are confused about what vintage to buy right now, you can’t blame them. Three different harvests—2019, 2020 and 2021—are widely available, when typically it’s just a vintage or two. The 2020s are at the heart of the confusion. It was a hot year marred by wildfires throughout California, which raised concerns about smoke taint. Many Zin makers skipped 2020 altogether or released only a portion of their usual portfolio. To compensate for the shortfall, a number of producers stretched out the release of their 2019s or hurried the 2021s onto the market. As a result, this Zin report is the tale of three vintages: the claretstyle 2021s, the unpredictable 2020s and the exceptional 2019s, which I have continued to taste after giving the vintage an overall rating…

WINE SPECTATOR’S 2024 RESTAURANT AWARDS PROGRAM will accept new entries and renewals from Jan. 10 to March 15, 2024. To enter, restaurants must submit a copy of their current wine list and dinner menu, plus a cover letter that describes their wine program. The letter must include the restaurant’s phone number and email address, and must be in English. A nonrefundable processing fee, payable by either check or credit card, is also required. Additional information and general applications are available at Restaurants.WineSpectator.com. FIRST-TIME ENTRANTS: All first-time entrants can go to Restaurants.WineSpectator.com, where they’ll be directed to fill out the online new applicant form. After completion, this form will need to be printed, signed and submitted along with the other materials listed above: a current wine list, dinner menu, entry fee…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Carnasciale Toscana Il Caberlot 2019 $285 ITALY A classy red, complex and delineated, yet elegant and supple in texture, setting the stage for black currant, blackberry, violet, cedar, rosemary and mineral flavors. Balanced and incisive on the long finish, with a lingering aftertaste that echoes the fruit, mineral and savory notes. Superb. Best from 2025 through 2042. 583 cases made, 100 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 $395 CALIFORNIA This delivers a lush yet focused wave of gorgeous loganberry and black currant fruit laced subtly with warm loam, alder smoke and dried bay leaf details. A long cast iron spine drives underneath from start…

Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available. 92 Marietta Christo North Coast 2019 $29 CALIFORNIA Deeply structured and youthful with torque, this red slowly reveals dark cherry, bittersweet chocolate and black olive flavors as it builds toward broad-shouldered tannins. Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Viognier. Best from 2024 through 2034. 9,000 cases made.—T.F. 400,000+ WINE RATINGS Search our database by winery, region, variety, vintage, price, score and more WineSpectator.com/Wine 92 Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County Sonoma 2021 $26 CALIFORNIA Plush in texture, this Zin is generous with blackberry and cherry flavors that draw in accents of briar patch, black pepper and toasty cinnamon as it finishes with zesty tannins. Drink now through 2031. 95,000 cases made.—T.F. 91 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna 2021 $21 ITALY A lively…

Burgundy / Chablis 93 Patrick Piuze Chablis Les Preuses 2021 $143 A sleek, linear white, with elements of tropical fruit combined with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. Well-balanced, with lemon and mineral providing the core flavors, along with the exotic, ripe fruit accents. Superlong, with fine harmony. Best from 2025 through 2038. 103 cases made, 19 cases imported.—B.S. 93 William Fèvre Chablis Les Clos Domaine 2020 $175 This lemon- and green apple–infused white stays lean, racy and long, combining power and intensity. On the austere side today, with a mineral underpinning and chalky finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.—B.S. 93 William Fèvre Chablis Les Preuses Domaine 2020 $150 Intense and driven, this white exhibits apple, lemon, mineral and floral aromas and flavors, with ample flesh to buffer the vibrant acidity. Remains long…

Marlborough 95 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Section 94 2020 $38 See Highly Recommended, page 129. 93 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough 2020 $48 Impressive, showing generous plush, juicy flavors of raspberry, blueberry and ripe plum at the pure core, with details of dried lavender, white pepper, black tea and star anise. Reveals hints of bittersweet chocolate on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2030. 180,000 cases made, 1,500 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2022 $35 Stands out for its intensity, with ruby grapefruit, yuzu and lemon essential oil details, plus notes of fresh-clipped, aromatic herbs centered around lemon thyme on a sleek, juicy frame, ending with a long, expressive finish. Drink now. 270,000 cases made, 85,000 cases imported.—M.W.  92 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2022…

Wine Spectator’s Grand Award, founded in 1981, recognizes outstanding restaurants with extraordinary wine programs. We honor 93 restaurants with our Grand Award this year; listed here, they represent 16 countries and 14 states plus the District of Columbia. For more information about these distinguished restaurants, turn to the Restaurant Awards listings beginning on page 73; comprehensive coverage is also available at WineSpectator.com/Restaurants. UNITED STATES CALIFORNIA Acquerello Grand Award since 2012 Addison Grand Award since 2009 Capo Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Grand Award since 2014 The Plumed Horse Grand Award since 2015 Press Restaurant Grand Award since 2022 Restaurant Gary Danko Grand Award since 2001 Restaurant 301 Grand Award since 1998 Saison Grand Award since 2014 Sierra Mar Grand Award since 2012…

Michel Reybier, the billionaire hotelier and owner of Bordeaux secondgrowth Château Cos-d’Estournel, is expanding his growing wine empire and his presence in St.-Estèphe. Reybier’s company has purchased neighboring winery Château Cos Labory from the Audoy family for an undisclosed sum. Cos Labory, which has a track record of producing very good, but not outstanding, Bordeaux for less than $50 a bottle, gains a new owner with deep pockets. “We feel proud and fortunate to be handing over the reins of Cos Labory to Michel Reybier and his family and remain confident that they will continue to manage the estate with respect and commitment, while pursuing new and ambitious directions,” said proprietor Bernard Audoy. This is not Reybier’s first expansion in St.-Estèphe. In 2017, he acquired neighboring Château Pomeys, which he…

Southern Star New Zealand is no one-trick pony, yet its electric, mouthwatering Sauvignon Blancs have been instrumental in establishing the country’s reputation on the global wine stage. This quartet showcases the wide appeal of this ever-popular variety. ASTROLABE Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley 2021 (93, $25) Lemongrass, lemon verbena, Key lime, ginger, crunchy sea salt, lemon sherbet, limeade, mango; intense, juicy DOG POINT Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2022 (92, $28) Precise, mouthwatering; lemon sorbet, ginger, makrut lime leaf, lime, orange blossoms TOHU Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley 2022 (90, $16) Tangerine, preserved lemon, dried mango, dried ginger, lemon basil, lemongrass; tangy, refreshing VAVASOUR Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley 2022 (90, $19) Fragrant, expressive; pickled ginger, passion fruit, pineapple, lemon zest, lime sherbet, lemon thyme Grilling Season This group of reds has a common denominator: loads…

ARGENTINA SIETE FUEGOS BY FRANCIS MALLMANN The Vines Resort & Spa, Ruta Provincial 94, Km. 11, Tunuyán, Mendoza; (54) 926-168-25802 AUSTRALIA BACCHUS Rydges South Bank Brisbane, 9 Glenelg St., South Bank, Brisbane, Queensland; (61) 7-3364-0870 BELLA VENEZIA 95 Mooloolaba Esplanade, Mooloolaba; (61) 7-5444-5844 THE CENTURY The Star, 80 Pyrmont St., Pyrmont, Sydney, New South Wales; (61) 2-9566-2328 CHARRED KITCHEN & BAR 1-5 New St., Orange, New South Wales; (61) 2-6363-1580 CHIN CHIN SYDNEY 69 Commonwealth St., Surry Hills, Sydney, New South Wales; (61) 2-9281-3322 CRU BAR + CELLAR 1/22 James St., Fortitude Valley, Queensland; (61) 7-3252-2400 CRU WINE BAR 916 Glenferrie Road, Kew, Victoria; (64) 3-9818-4366  THE FLOODED GUMS RESTAURANT Bonville Golf Resort, N. Bonville Road, Bonville, New South Wales; (61) 1300-722-444 GLASS BRASSERIE Hilton Sydney, 488 George St., Level…

Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution. 90 Bodega Colomé Torrontés Calchaquí Valley 2022 $14 ARGENTINA A textbook Torrontés, showing geranium, peach and Meyer lemon aromas up front, this picks up rich candied orange peel and juicy peach notes, which have just enough acidity to keep the floridness in check. Drink now. 12,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.R. 89 d’Arenberg Shiraz McLaren Vale The Stump Jump 2020 $14 AUSTRALIA Kalamata olive, spice, date-nut bread and black licorice notes add complexity to the core of tangy berry flavors in this red, which shows cedar and cigar box accents on a dense, firming frame. Drink now. 9,000 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Kirkland Signature Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Ti Point 2022 $8 NEW ZEALAND This offers appealing lemon thyme, lemon verbena and fresh-grated ginger aromatics up…