Table of contents for July - August 2019 in Wanderlust

RIVER WONDERLAND PADDLE THE WATERWAYS OF CANADA Leave civilisation behind and paddle more than 320km of the great Yukon River on the Yukon Canoe Adventure with Grand American Adventures. As you voyage deep into the remote Canadian wilderness, you’ll end up following the renowned gold-rush route, traversing the same waters that were once a lifeline to the miners. Camp out on riverbanks watched by curious beavers and even glimpse the odd bald eagle stalking the skies as you roam through abandoned trading posts and settlements, such as Hootalinqua and Big Salmon Village, and revel in the absolute stillness of it all. Who? Grand American Adventures When? 14 July; 4 & 25 August 2019 How long? 8 days How much? From £979 (excluding int’l flights) BACK TO BACKWATERS GET LOST ON…

AT A GLANCE Dominican Republic Population 10.77 million Total area 48,442 sq km Famous for Some of the most diverse topography in the Caribbean Dominica Population 74,679 Total area 750 sq km Famous for Its nature: Dominica has the world’s second largest hot spring, 365 rivers and nine active volcanoes DID YOU KNOW? Onefamouspirate (ahem, Johnny Depp) is said to have regularlyimbibedthe rum at Bush Bar, on Dominica’sIndian River,whenfilming thePirates of the Caribbeanfranchise. ScenesforJurassic Park were also filmed in Los Haitises NP.…

The candle flickered beside the grave. Maria, perched on a small plastic stall, rubbed her hands against the 3am chill and reached in her pocket for a small bottle of tequila. But she didn’t take a swift swig. Instead, she placed it delicately by the headstone and smiled serenely. “Rene loved tequila,” she said. ‘Girls wore flowing ball gowns, boys were in smart suits and every face was painted like a skeleton’ It was the middle of the night and I was in a cemetery in the blink-and-you-miss-it village of Arocutín, somewhere in the middle of rural Mexico. On almost any other night of the year, or any other cemetery in the world, this might look a little unusual, but not tonight. Not on Día de los Muertos (Day of…

Everest Three Passes Best for: Mountain views, lakes & high passes DURATION: 20 days ADD-ON: Island Peak ascent (2›3 days) The demanding Three Passes trek links the Khumbu region’s four main valleys (Khumbu, Gokyo, Imja, Thame) via three dramatic 5,000m-plus passes, visiting Everest Base Camp en route. Starting out from Lukla (usually after flying in from Kathmandu), this is not an easy trek; you need to be fit and acclimatised, and will need a guide to get you safely over the passes. However, no technical climbing is involved and the lodges en route are good. This is the connoisseur’s Everest itinerary, getting you away from the crowds and into unmatched mountain scenery. Around Manaslu Best for: Mountain views, glaciers, villages & variety DURATION: 16-18 days ADD-ON: Tsum Valley trek…

1 Sagres At the extreme west of the Algarve lies this end-of-the-world hideaway. Many locals go misty-eyed at the mere mention of its name and it is a deeply special escape. Stand atop the rugged cliffs, gazing out from Europe’s most south-western corner, where the great Portuguese explorers once set sail. 2 Costa Vicentina Just to the north of the Algarve, this idyllic stretch of coastline is still something of a secret outside Portugal. There has been precious little development here, just mile upon mile of sandy beach. Surfers know about it as it offers some epic breaks, but walking tours are starting to finally discover the area. 3 Cascais & Estoril These twin beachfront suburbs of Lisbon hug the northern banks of the Tejo River. Popular…

The author travelled independently. To visit Zakouma National Park, you need to reserve one of a few accommodation options, for which safaris are included. Double chalets at Tinga Camp (zakouma.com) cost from US$156 (£120) per person per night and include twice-daily safaris and all meals. To make a reservation, contact zakoumatourism@africanparks.org. For more details, visit africanparks.org. The park’s Camp Nomade (zakouma.com) is also all-inclusive of meals, guides and safaris but is pricier. Its eight tents are booked for weeklong slots with specific guides over a 16-week period (mid-Decmid-Apr). My guide, the excellent Rob Janisch, has slots available in 2020 from USD$15,000pp (£11,833) for nine nights (seven at Camp Nomade; two in N’Djamena); contact him on +263 779 926448 or via www.intothewild.guide for dates. All profits from the camp go to…

NIKON CAMERA PRIZES FOR THE RUNNERS-UP Our four Runner Up photographers will win a Nikon D3500 camera and an AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm VR lens. Gain new perspectives with this premium camera, featuring a huge 24.2 MP DX-format sensor that captures outstanding images and full HD movies. With Nikon’s Vibration Reduction, your images are kept pin sharp. Add the NIKKOR lens and you can take impressive portraits featuring that enviable background blur, as well as super sleek videos – the lens focuses quickly and smoothly, with virtually no drive noise to interrupt filming. This will help you hold on to your travel experiences – creating immersive images and videos, exactly as you experience them. nikon.co.uk AUSTIN Austin proudly stands apart from the rest of Texas. This dynamic and forward-thinking city…

1 ELBA, ITALY Elba is one of the most idyllic islands to be exiled to – but Napoleon skipped town after less than a year. Explore the terraced garden at Portoferraio’s Palazzina dei Mulini – his one-time home – where he enjoyed the view while keeping a watchful eye over the port. 2 ST HELENA St Helena – where Napoleon was banished post-Waterloo – contained the exiled emperor much better than Elba ever did. He lived out his days at Longwood House on this remote Atlantic island, once only accessible by RMS St Helena via Cape Town. With the island’s new airport, fleeing wouldn’t be an issue now – but why would you want to? 3 PARIS, FRANCE Napoleon’s body was returned to Paris in 1840 to be buried in…

• Chad – Tours visit not just the ‘Big Five’ of Zakouma NP or annual festivals such as the Wodaabe’s Gerewol, but venture deep into the sandstone massif and rock towers of Ennedi (red zone), where the last Saharan crocodiles live. • Haiti – Hurricanes may have devastated the island over the past few years, but tourism is one way it will find its feet again, and its vodou heritage, colonial citadels and tumbling falls make for thrilling tours. • North Korea – No more knowable than it’s ever been, tours (still the only way in) are as strict as ever, but cover everything from the bombast of the Arirang Mass Games to the natural beauty of Mount Paektu. • Kurdistan (Iraq) – Tours to the region (an Iraq-imposed flight…

This issue: Expedition cruising SWAROVSKI CL Companion Nomad, £2,070 These new bins from Austrian optical master Swarovski not only help you look for wildlife (choose from 8x30 or 10x30 models) but, with their leather armour sleeve, make you look good while doing so. uk.swarovskioptik.com ARC’TERYX Beta AR Jacket, £480 Yes, it’s expensive but, boy, does this waterproof AR (All Rounder) deliver. Made from Gore-Tex Pro, it features zipped hand pockets, pit zips to vent on warm days, an adjustable hood, and a separate collar for extra protection. arcteryx.com ROHAN Weather System Gloves, £39 Mitts are warmer than gloves, but impractical for photography. Enter this nifty pair made from a warm, durable polyester, featuring a magnetic fold-back ‘finger shield’ that converts them into fingerless gloves in seconds. rohan.co.uk KEEN Targhee III,…

Population: 70,000 Languages: English is universal, but expect to hear a montage of lilting Creole, Urdu, Hindu and Amerindian. Time zone: GMT›4 International dialling code: +592 Visas: British nationals do not require a visa. ATMs: Although not exactly widespread, there are enough ATMs to make getting Guyanese dollars (GYD) easy. Scotia Bank machines usually work well with foreign bank cards. Alternatively, use licenced exchange shops or visit moneychangers on the street around Stabroek; they have wads of cash and always look to do a deal. The preferred currency of exchange is US dollars. Credit cards: Tour operators, higher-quality hotels and better-class restaurants will accept credit and debit cards, but, elsewhere, cash usually remains king. Guidebooks: Bradt’s third edition of its dedicated Guyana guidebook was published in 2018 and remains an…

Alex Treadway Cover photographer Alex’s 15-year career reflects a passion for the world around him. From capturing life in remote Nepalese hospitals to snapping stories in the Himalaya mountains, he loves a challenge. My save-the-world tip: “I always carry a steel bottle, as synthetic fibres leach microplastics into the environment. The app ‘Good On You’ is great – it rates fashion brands on eco impact and suggests ethical alternatives, too.” Sara Wheeler Interview Sara’s long been drawn to the planet’s most extreme places – she was the first female writer-in-residence at the South Pole, and spent seven months researching in Antarctica. Her latest book sees her cross eight of Russia’s time zones on the trail of its literary greats (p34). My save-the-world tip: “I don’t have a car – I…

Manhole covers are often a thing of beauty in Japan. If you’re wandering the streets of places like Tokyo or Osaka, look down and you’ll see everything from flower-specked mountains to dancing fish, with an estimated 19,000 different designs in use. These colourful covers were created to make taxpayers more amenable to costly drainage projects, but have now become a source of local pride, highlighting regional wildlife, festivals, historic events and folklore. In February 2019, there was even a Manhole Cover Festival in Tokyo, with all kinds of manhole-themed goods on show. This is just one example of the many interesting insights into Japanese culture you can expect from DK Eyewitness Travel’s new book, Be More Japan. This compendium of all things Japan is full of facts, fascinations, and both…

“Wherever a man feels like home… that’s the place he was destined to be,” Ernest Hemingway once wrote. If that’s true, the writer certainly found his in Havana – at Finca Vigía, where he wrote The Old Man and the Sea. Now a museum dedicated to his legacy, Finca Vigía offers an intimate insight into the man himself. Get a glimpse of his personal belongings, before heading out into the tropical garden to spot his boat, the Pilar, next to the headstones of his four dogs.…

“I was interested to see the human spirit still flaring up in Russia” You first travelled to Russia when you were eleven – at the height of the Cold War… We were a working-class family and never went anywhere, but my mother was fascinated by Russia and it was one of the first package tours. Of course, it was completely under the thumb of the state – you could only stay in approved hotels. There would be an enormous woman at the end of every corridor, watching you go in and out. Then, one day we went down to breakfast and all these figures walked in and we recognised them as the Northern Ireland football team – and there was George Best! It was like the gods had come among…

There are few ways to make a grand entrance in the jungle, but arriving at Costa Rica’s Pacuare Lodge via a white-water raft is one of them. Set deep in the Central Highlands’ rainforest, no roads lead to this eco-lodge, so if you decide against navigating the Pacuare River’s rushing rapids, you might drop in from above by helicopter, or even cross the river by a hanging gondola. But the lodge packs in an itinerary designed to thrill naturalists as well as adrenaline hunters. Go zip-lining over the forest canopy for an unbeatable view, before having breakfast or dinner on a treetop platform; meet with indigenous communities and glimpse Costa Rica’s amazing wildlife on rainforest hikes. You’ll stumble across all types of exotic birds: toucans, red-throated ant tanagers and black-cheeked…

1 Akagera NP (Rwanda) African Parks took over this severely degraded post-genocide wetland and savannah in 2010. It has so far overseen the re-introduction of 18 eastern black rhino (with more to come) and brought back a lion population from extinction. 2 Zakouma NP (Chad) The work done by African Parks here has been near miraculous when you take into account how devastated it had been by conflict and poaching. Now it is the closest park to Europe in which you can glimpse the ‘Big Five’ in the wild. 3 Liuwa Plain NP (Zambia) Overexploitation hit the grasslands of Liuwa Plain hard before African Parks took over in 2003. Lions are now seen more regularly and it is famous for having Africa’s second-largest wildebeest migration. 4…

Big. Bold. Bodacious. These words barely scratch the surface of Texas’ enormous cultural legacy, but they certainly set the Lone Star State apart from the nation’s 49 others. Add a mix of cosmopolitan swagger, the impressive natural beauty and a dynamic population of proud residents, and you get a sense of what makes Texas distinctive. That is why Wanderlust has teamed up with Travel Texas – together with the cities of Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Fort Worth and Dallas – to send our four winning photographers on a true once-in- a-lifetime trip: to experience the real heart of beautiful Texas. HOW TO ENTER We have four categories: People, Wildlife, Landscape or Travel Icons; the latter recognising shots of people, landscapes or events that have achieved a landmark status in the…

Aurora Expeditions, together with Polar Routes, are offering one lucky winner the chance to embark on their Iceland, Jan Mayen and Svalbard voyage. The trip for two includes 11 days of adventure, plus return flights. For your chance to win, simply answer the following question: In the Arctic, during which months of the year does the midnight sun normally appear? (a) June and July (b) August and September (c) December and January To enter and for full terms, conditions and data policies, go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p5) and state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust, Polar Routes and Aurora Expeditions. The closing date is 31 July 2019.…

A WEE PROBLEM “We’d packed and gone to bed when my husband picked that night to sleepwalk. He opened the suitcase lid and urinated all over our belongings. The first day of our holiday was spent in the laundry.” Sally Amey A LIKELY STORY… “I went on a climbing holiday and took my chalk but forgot my climbing shoes. I had to explain to an airport official why I had a massive bag of white powder in my possession!” James Green FELINE NOT FINE “The cat had taken to using my case as a litter tray, and I didn’t notice. It was not a pleasant smell when I opened my case 20 hours later after a long-haul flight.” Mark Cameron CELEBRITY SNAFU “The rapper Coolio took my suitcase accidentally after…

Best time to walk: From April-May or September-October is best, because the weather’s not too hot. Meanwhile the hotter southern regions – Alentejo and the Algarve – offer the perfect climate for October-May winter walking! Where to walk: For hillier routes and superb wine, try the UNESCO-listed Douro Valley and Porto. However, there are hidden coastal trails in the Alentejo region! Where to spot wildlife? The Azores’ lush green archipelago of volcanic islands is a wandering wildlife-watchers paradise – you can also see both whales and dolphins. Why not try… Explore Portugal’s most pristine coastal trails along the reinvigorating Rota Vicentina: refreshing ocean winds, rugged coastal scenery and wild natural landscape!…

CASE STUDY: LYN HUGHES I recently had to get a yellow fever jab, as I was heading to Guyana and needed a certificate. While I would have had the vaccination a million years ago, my certificate was lost. I’m now over 60 and the pharmacist stressed that he wouldn’t normally do it for over 60s – I had to work hard to convince him. As it was, I felt horrible for a week or so afterwards, which may have been a side effect or an unrelated virus. DR JANE SAYS: Yellow fever is a killer and up to 50% of infected people die from it. It occurs in parts of Central and South America and sub-Saharan Africa, and is spread by day-biting Aedes mosquitoes, but the vaccine is extremely…

Mud and Stars Sara Wheeler Jonathan Cape, £20 Behind Putin’s Curtain Stephan Orth Greystone Books, £13 Is all publicity good publicity? Russian president Vladimir Putin seems to think so, and with a big uptick in travellers to Russia lately, he may be right – but as his countrymen might add with an ironic note, he always is. Among recent visitors are Sara Wheeler and Stephan Orth, who both find themselves crossing most of its 11 time zones on very different missions but in the same spirit. Mud and Stars sees Wheeler hit the local homestays in search of the writers of Russia’s ‘Golden Age’ – Tolstoy, Pushkin, Dostoyevsky – seeking out the towns and estates in which these works were conceived, and meeting those who live there now. But while…

In polar climates you often oscillate between being too hot and too cold, because although there’s snow on the ground, the sun can be intense. The best way to manage this is by layering – simply add or remove items of clothing as you need. There are three basic layers: 1 Base: The layer that sits next to your skin. Though you need a fabric that keeps you warm, don’t forget that hiking up glaciers and jumping in and out of Zodiacs will make you sweat. You need something that moves perspiration away from your skin quickly, so you don’t get too cold when you stop. This is called ‘wicking’. Merino wool is great at this and is also naturally anti-smell, meaning you don’t need to take so many items…

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/ wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the…

Recalling big cat sightings: We saw a leopard relaxing in a tree when in Kenya’s Masai Mara.” @camilla_vm Giving Peru advice: “Head south to the Colca Canyon, one of the world’s deepest, or the remote volcanic playground of Valle de los Volcanes and Andagua.” @5journeys Remembering Korea: “We saw people practising their dances at the Jogyesa Temple, Seoul, for Buddha’s Birthday… There was a real sense of community.” Clemma Tagg Reliving past conquests: “When I lived in Yorkshire I must have completed the Cleveland Way five times… but never all at once.” @keith.kellett…

TAKE THE LONG ROOT The Parque Almendares is the lungs of Havana. Wander or pedal through this urban oasis where trees hundreds of years old drape their vines across the land, creating the impression you’re cloaked by a thick green curtain. DRINK UP The whizz of blenders whipping up Hemingway-approved daiquiris resounds at El Floridita. Sidle up to the life-size statue of Havana’s hard-drinking ‘Papa’, who supposedly downed 13 double daiquiris in a single sitting. GO BACK IN TIME Soak up Cuba’s glamorous history at the Hotel Nacional. Overlooking the Malecón promenade, everyone from Frank Sinatra to ‘Lucky’ Luciano – who once held a mafia summit here – has passed through.…

1 Mexico City Explore markets and Aztec pyramids in one of the largest cities in the world, home to over 20 million people. 2 Riviera Maya Swim with whale sharks, dive in cenotes (naturally formed subterranean water pools) and relax on the finest beaches in all the land. 3 Oaxaca Regarded as the food capital of Mexico, this is the place to try tasty and traditional dishes, such as the delicious mole negro, a traditional sauce made from chocolate and chilli. 4 Tequila Discover the secrets of Mexico’s world-famous tipple at the small town where it all started. Tour the agave fields on horseback, visit working distilleries and, yes, perhaps sample a shot or two? 5 Butterflies in Michoacán During November you can see the…

Tibetan culture • Upper Mustang • Nar-Phu • Around Manaslu • Upper Dolpo Close-up mountain views • Everest Base Camp • Everest Three Passes • Annapurna Sanctuary • Around Manaslu • Makalu Base Camp Expedition-style treks • Makalu Base Camp • Beni to Dolpo • Upper Dolpo Lake views • Phoksundo Lake (Dolpo) • Gokyo Valley (Everest) • Gosainkund (Langtang) Luxury lodge treks • Everest Base Camp • Annapurna Foothills Monsoon treks • Nar-Phu • Upper Dolpo • Upper Mustang (June to September) Village Culture • Annapurna Circuit • Around Manaslu • Upper Mustang • Nar-Phu…

Vital statistics Capital: N’Djamena Population: 14.9 million Language(s): Chadian Arabic, French and more than 120 other languages and dialects. Time: GMT+1 International dialling code: +235 Visas: Required by UK nationals. The nearest Chad embassy to the UK is located in Brussels, Belgium (http://ambassade-du-tchad.be).For ease and speed, try using an agency instead; the author used travcour.com, which charged £275 in total. Visitors must also present a yellow fever certificate on arrival. Money: Central African CFA Franc (CFA), currently CFA741 to the UK£. Not widely available outside Chad, it’s best to take euros and exchange them at your hotel in N’Djemena. When to go Mid-November to late May: This is the only period when Zakouma NP is open to visitors. It’s dry and cooler from November to December, when the park is…

1 FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS In Baden-Württemberg, just an hour from Stuttgart airport, you’ll find the rolling Swabian Alb mountains – a lush patchwork of fields and forests, hilltop castles, juniper heathlands and dramatic rocks, criss-crossed with over 60 certified hiking trails. You’ll find easy paths through meadows and ancient forests, such as the 5.5km Wurmlinger Kapellenwegle that traverses vineyards and apple orchards, as well as tougher routes like the 12.8km DonauWelle Eichfelsen-Panorama, delivering a magical bird’s-eye look at the Danube river. To the south of the state lies Lake Constance – an enormous body of water bordered by Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Cycle the Bodensee-Radweg trail, which hugs all 270km of the picturesque shores, or take to the water in a kayak. You can even island-hop, visiting the isle…

Open to amateur photographers only; free entry. All entrants are deemed to have agreed to be bound by the full terms and conditions at wanderlust.co.uk/PhotoOfTheYear. For further info, contact info@wanderlust.co.uk. NOTE: The following are abridged terms and conditions; full terms and conditions are available on our website THE CATEGORIES • There are four categories: (i) People (ii) Wildlife (iii) Landscape (iv) Travel Icon (classic images that sum up a destination). •You may enter up to four photos IN TOTAL. This can be across all categories or within selected categories (eg, four shots in one category OR two shots in one, two in another OR one in each, etc). One submission per individual. ONLINE ENTRIES You can submit competition entries for free at wanderlust.co.uk/PhotoOfTheYear POSTAL ENTRIES You can also submit prints…

A Savage Dreamland David Eimer Bloomsbury, £20 What happened during the 50 years Myanmar (Burma) was in isolation and locked into a military dictatorship? David Eimer sets out to find the answer, as well as what came next, in his latest book. Veering north from Yangon to the Burmese Himalaya and down to the jungles of the south, he sees Myanmar flicker to life through the voices of royalty, monks and refugees, to sketch a portrait of a country trapped in the delicate twilight between reality and dreams. My Midsummer Morning Alastair Humphreys William Collins, £15 Some adventures are so inspiring that we can’t help but repeat them. In his latest, Alastair Humphreys does that, as he takes to busking on Spanish roads in search of the rich and tangled…

1 Kayak Gozo’s coast The island of Comino (home to two people), off Gozo’s south-eastern tip, fills up fast with boats, but kayak trips (pictured top) let you escape its busy Blue Lagoon to explore and snorkel hidden inlets and caves. Or leave the crowds behind on a paddle along Gozo’s wild north coast. Full day €65pp (£57); gozoadventures.com 2 Stay in a farmhouse Most travellers visit Gozo for a day; locals from the mainland stay a week. This is where the Maltese go to escape, renting old, rustic stone farmhouses in its villages. Their mills are often converted into rooms and huge pools added, but they still have a rural feel. It’s a three-night minimum stay usually, and great for a slow break. visitmalta.com 3 Visit a local producer…