Table of contents for December 2018 - January 2019 in Wanderlust

Star letter From Namibia with love We recently returned again from Namibia’s ‘last great wilderness’, tracking black rhino in the Damaraland at Desert Rhino Camp, as featured in Wanderlust [July/August 2018, issue 188]. One day, the trackers had gone to look further afield for fresh tracks when, rounding the corner, we saw Don’t Worry (so named because he is a cool and relaxed rhino), who we’d first seen in 2006 on our original visit here. He was munching on the roots of a euphorbia damarana and was so close that our ‘walk’ to see him was to the front of the car. Later, our guide pointed out two cheetahs stood behind an elephant – how they manage to survive here when game is so sparse is hard to imagine –…

431kph is the top speed of the Shanghai Maglev, the fastest commercial train in the world. It can whisk you to Beijing (1,300km away) in 4.5 hours. £16,500 for one night in the Presidential Suite of Shanghai’s Mandarin Oriental Pudong – but hey, you get your own private wine cellar and roof gardens. 37 was how many times Chairman Mao Zedong (below) visited Shanghai. His former residences litter the city (one is now part of a luxury mall!), but his newly reopened Jing’An home is a curious time capsule of life in 1924, when Mao lived there.…

CULTURE SYDNEY Sydney offers a grandiose take on the arts. It has a famous Opera House, a Museum of Contemporary Art (pictured right) and the Sydney Theatre Company, run for a while by the actor Cate Blanchett. Vivid Festival turns the city into one big lights show once a year, while Belvoir St Theatre in Surry Hills is among the most innovative in the land. MELBOURNE Australia’s cultural star has a cutting-edge arts scene. Head to Southbank for the Arts Centre and the National Gallery of Victoria, while the East End stages world-class shows and the inner suburbs has a busy music scene. It’s embraced street art, too, with the laneways in the Central Business District (CBD) now an ever-changing canvas. OUTDOORS SYDNEY In Sydney it’s all about the sun.…

You can keep your scientific explanations for the northern lights; we’re sticking with Finnish folklore, which says it’s the leap of an Arctic fox that creates the ethereal glow. With the swish of its tail, the fox sends sparks and snowflakes flying, which dance back down to earth in jewel-coloured swirls. But, for some of us, the spectacle doesn’t quite live up to the legend. Icy feet and frozen fingers can dampen the spirits of even the most ardent aurora hunter – especially if the lights themselves are being shy. No, the secret of a great lights-spotting trip is to hole up in the most comfortable nook, and we think we’ve found it in some cosy beds in Ranua, Finnish Lapland. The clear-roofed bedrooms of Arctic Fox Igloos glitter like…

Vital statistics Capital: Buenos Aires Population: Around 45 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-3 International dialling code: +54 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days Money: Argentine peso (ARS), currently around ARS48 to the UK£ and, at the time of writing, suffering rampant inflation. There are ATMs in cities and major towns and credit cards are accepted at most hotels and shops but you’ll need cash for cheaper establishments, markets and tipping. When to go Spring: Argentina is a year-round destination but spring (September-November) is one of the best times to region-hop. The Lake District is also beautiful during this time. Summer: Patagonia is most accessible in summer (December to February). Misiones is warm all year around, but the hottest month is January (the coldest…

Every time we blink it seems another direct flight opens to a southern US city. In 2018 the big newcomer was Nashville, before that New Orleans. In 2019 it’s Charleston – BA is launching the first non-stop flights from London to the charming South Carolina city in spring; the route will run April-October. Hop aboard to stroll Charleston’s historic district and to visit the Slave Mart, which once stocked the plantations that bankrolled the city and is now home to a fine museum. Civil War-era sites, antebellum mansions, creeks filled with dolphins and manatees, and a buzzing food scene complete any visit – well, that and a cool mint julep!…

This year sees a pair of cities take the European Capital of Culture crown – Plovdiv in Bulgaria (see p73) and Matera in southern Italy – shining a light on some of the continent’s better-kept secrets. The limestone caves of Matera were formed naturally and some 9,000 years ago its sassi (cave dwellings) formed the bones of a vast underground city. The newfound spotlight may well see the ancient hilltop town’s rock-hewn churches, cosy grottoes and excellent hiking trails in the nearby Alta Murgia National Park swiftly overrun, so our advice is to get there soon. There are few places quite like it.…

To a winning all you have to do is head to Exodus Travels’ My 7 World Wonders website at www.exodus.co.uk/my7and select your personal seven wonders of the world with Exodus Travels on its interactive website – there are 25 wonders to choose from – and create your ultimate wish list. Once you’ve made your selection, you’ll be entered into the competition – to win the chance to visit each and every one of your selections on seven trips of a lifetime over seven years. To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, please go to www.exodus.co.uk/my7. The closing date is 15 December 2018.…

There aren’t many adjectives that do justice to Western Australia. ‘Big’ somehow doesn’t encapsulate the state’s adventure-rich, map-hogging hugeness; ‘diverse’ doesn’t quite nail its impressive spread of activities, and ‘beautiful’ just doesn’t seem to capture the incredible natural scenery that bucks, yawns and ripples across the land. ‘Extraordinary’ fits well, though. Australia’s largest, and arguably loveliest, state is nothing if not extraordinary. The dynamic city of Perth is just the start of it. The state capital makes the perfect jumping off point to begin exploring the region on a road trip. In Western Australia, the wildlife is world-class, the roads are uncrowded and the food and wine are rightly raved about. That’s before we even get to the unspoilt joys of the landscapes themselves. From white beaches, rusty red wilderness…

When planning a first African safari, it’s worth thinking about your health needs in advance. Even the seasons (which vary across the continent) can affect how you protect yourself. For example, Southern Africa is dry and relatively cold from April to October, when there are fewer mosquitoes and the malaria risk is lower. Whereas in the east the biting season is at its highest between April and June. Risk can even vary within countries. Although South Africa is largely malaria free, its Kruger NP isn‘t, and visitors to nearly every African game park will need to take antimalarial tablets. But malaria prevention is more than just swallowing pills. It is important to bring the right clothing. Coveralls – especially if proofed with a contact insecticide such as Lifesystems’ EX4 –…

CANADA GOOSE Approach Jacket, £695 There’s nothing better on a polar trip (or any cold winter’s day) than snuggling into an insulated jacket. This Canada Goose one is more ethical, too. Some previous models featured fur, but manufacturers have taken note of protesters: this new down-filled jacket comes minus animal trimmings. It does have an oversized hood and adjustable cuffs you can roll up if you get too hot. canadagoose.com/uk TEVA Ember Moc, £60 Is it a trainer? Is it a slipper? It’s both! These Tevas have a decent sole for city strolling but also a collapsible heel and soft fabric upper, making them ideal for long journeys. Super comfy, and they eliminate the need for taking two pairs of shoes. teva.co.uk GP Trav O Safe Lithium-free Power Pack, £20…

Another Fine Mess: Across Trumpland in a Model T Ford Tim Moore Two Roads, £25 Since the ‘Trum-pocalypse’ hit in 2016, there’s been no shortage of journos traipsing Middle America to work out how and generally acting as if auditioning for chief mourner at civilisation’s wake. Moore has none of that – he hurtles along like a game whirlwind, part-PG Wodehouse, part-Louis Theroux. His travels are high on hi-jinx, low on the low politics, and reveal that there’s still plenty of gas in the tank for travellers keen on a classic road trip in an equally classic motor. Thinking on my Feet Kate Humble Aster, £20 Not all journeys need to be epic. This diary of a year’s worth of mindful rambles is the presenter’s tribute to the…

The University of Amsterdam, founded in 1877, is predominantly located in the peaceful, south-western part of the Oude Zijde (Old Side) District. A walk via Nieuwmarkt and the Agnietenkapel – where the university has its roots – takes in the bustling Red Light District (where Damstraat meets the Nieuwmarkt), the 15th-century medieval-feel Waag and the Rembrandthuis, a fascinating insight into the life of the city’s most famous artist.…

1 The Mail Rail once ferried 4 million letters a day below London. But after 75 years it closed, only to be resurrected as a ride in 2017. Whizz its tunnels in a tiny train (top) as its history is told on film across the walls (postalmuseum.org; £17). 2 Hidden London tours have led visitors around abandoned tube stops, through lost tunnels and even into Churchill’s bombproof secret station. The settings change with each new batch of visits released – watch out for the latest in January (ltmuseum.co.uk). 3 The hand-dug tunnels of Chislehurst Caves (chislehurst-caves.co.uk; £6) stretch 35km. Tours explore a fraction of that, but let you explore its past as a medieval chalk mine, a shelter for 15,000 during the Blitz, and a cult music venue (Bowie and…

Hilary Bradt Co-founder of Bradt Travel Guides Recently made an Officer of the National Order of Madagascar, Hilary kicks off our new ‘Dispatches’ page (p40) by exploring the misunderstood joy of a Madagascan traffic jam. 2019’s hot destination: “ North Korea. My source (author of the new edition of the country’s Bradt guide) says it’s changing fast – fewer restrictions, more places accepting visitors. Who knows what the future holds there.” Martin Symington Travel writer Martin has spent his life unearthing unusual travel tales, though this issue’s journey across the Baltic states (p112) – particularly its miraculous Hill of Crosses – is his most unexpectedly uplifting. 2019’s hot destination: ”Nepal’s Langtang area. Lodges here, devastated by the 2015 ‘quake have now been rebuilt, but tourists remain few. Exult in Himalayan…

Wishing Wanderlust  a happy birthday: “A fantastic mag and a fantastic team over the years. Here’s to the next 25 years of adventure!” @shaunwcasey Tricky takeoffs in PNG: “On the ridgetop airstrips in Papua New Guinea, the plane doesn’t so much as go up – the ground goes down!” John Devereux Following your heroes in Borneo s jungles: “Walking in the footsteps of David Attenborough at Gua Goomantong caves – famous for the harvesting of its birds’ nests.” @gail1842 Cooling down with October’s Snow & Ice issue: “Reading about frozen adventures while sitting in 28°C heat in Beirut.” KT Horsefield…

UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION Admire the lights from the comfort of a chalet in Canada Enjoy a full-on aurora borealis experience on Magnetic North Travel’s Yukon Northern Lights Holiday in a Glass Chalet itinerary. With floor-to-ceiling wrap-around windows, a trio of new chalets – the first in the Yukon – offer the chance to spy the dancing lights without even stepping outside. To avoid cabin (or chalet) fever, join nightly guided aurora-viewing sessions, ride a husky sled through the surrounding tundra, and visit the Yukon Wildlife Preserve to spot caribou, lynx, moose and muskoxen. Who: Magnetic North Travel (01664 400103; magneticnorthtravel.com) When: Dec–Apr How long: 3 nights How much: From £1,095 (excl flights) HUSKY SLEDDING Explore the arctic by pooch power in Norway The swoosh of runners on fresh snow, the panting…

While Scotland’s North Coast 500 driving route still has locals grumbling over the increased traffic, Wales has learned that variety is the answer. It has launched not one but three new road trips: the Cambrian, the Coastal and the North Wales ways. Combine them into one 700km epic or drive them over a trio of weekend breaks. We like the look of the 290km Coastal Way, which starts in the UK’s smallest city, St David’s, before winding past Cardigan Bay, medieval castles and the Italianate village of Portmeirion plus a smorgasbord of pubs, breweries, chocolatiers and even vineyards. A truly tasty escape.…

The Balkans isn’t short of hiking trails, though the newly marked High Scardus Trail mercifully stops short of the 1,930km required to top the eight-country Via Dinarica route. A mere 495km, it finds its second wind in the glacial lakes and alpine forests of the Shar Mountains, having risen up from the towns along Lake Ohrid in western Macedonia. From there the trail traverses three nations, crossing parts of Kosovo and Albania’s Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, home to wild brown bears, wolves and roe deer, before pressing on to Lake Prespa and its amazing birdlife. A Balkan epic.…

Evaneos is offering one lucky reader the chance to win two places on a ten-day trip to Argentina designed by local experts, including international flights (worth up to £1,200), transfers and meals. For a chance to win, answer the following: Patagonia’s Mount Fitz Roy was named after the captain of which famous ship? a) HMSBeagle b) HMS Endeavour c) HMS Victory To enter and for full terms, conditions and data policies, go to wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p5); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. Closing date is 2 January 2019.…

1 HOSHINOYA, TOKYO The very essence of a ryokan – to provide space, serenity and seclusion – means many of them are found in the countryside. Not this one. Open since mid-2016, the upscale Hoshinoya (pictured above) gives you the chance to sample a high-end ryokan right amid the pulsing hubbub of Tokyo. You can still expect key traditional elements such as tatami matting and spring-fed baths, but they’re tucked into a skyscraper. It’s a substantial property, with 84 guestrooms split over 14 floors, but for travellers in search of a sanctuary in the capital, it’s a fine bet. Rooms from ¥72,000 (£500), based on two people sharing; hoshinoya.com/tokyo/en 2 ZABORIN, HOKKAIDO Japan’s ryokans might be founded on more than a millennium’s worth of history and tradition, but…

India is a mesmerising country of colour and chaos, unmissable sights and effervescent people who make it one of the most life-affirming nations in the world. It’s this mix that inspired Deborah Moggach to write the novel that would become the hit film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. Our unique tour follows in the footsteps of its endearing characters. ITINERARY Day 1 Delhi Day 2 Agra and Taj Mahal Day 3 High tea at Castle Kanota Day 4 Jaipur Day 5 Bijaipur Day 6 Jeep ride Day 7 Chittorgarh and real Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Day 8 Lake Pichola Day 9 Udaipur Day 10 Tour ends WHAT’S INCLUDED • A Wild Frontiers Tour Leader working with local guides • All accommodation, most meals and all entrance fees • All domestic…

Population: 595,000 Languages: English, Zulu, Xhosa and Afrikaans Time zone: GMT+2 International dial code: +27 Visas: UK nationals can visit South Africa for up to 90 days without a visa. Currency: South African rand (R), currrently around R19 to the UK£. The currency’s value also recently dropped significantly following the news that the economy had gone into recession. ATMs: South Africa has an established banking system with no-fee ATMs readily available at bank branches, shopping centres and supermarkets. Independent ATMs can have high fees, so try to avoid them. Maximum cash withdrawal limits vary but are likely to be in the region of R2,000 (£105) to R5,000 (£263). Credits cards: Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted, including in some of the larger stores in the city’s markets. Recommended guidebook:…

“Snapping ourselves in front of the Cape Point sign in Cape Town, South Africa.” @rogue_ramblers “Looking chic in Namib Desert – yes, it really was that cold in Namibia!” Pat Williams “Fatigue is not possible in the sublime landscapes of Noravank, Armenia. Johnny Lawlor “Checking in at the glamorous gates of the Palace de Versailles in France!” @dlisenga “Kayaking one beautiful morning on our third visit to Antarctica – a truly otherworldly destination.” Bill Klipp “Having been inspired by Wanderlust to seek icebergs in Ilulissat, Greenland, I took an issue along with me.” Jenny Schwarz “Chilling (in every sense) at the side of the road on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest.” Louise Markus “Hiking from Mestia to Ushguli in Georgia – If you re looking for adventure, this is…

EXPLORE SHANGHAI’S MOST GORGEOUS GARDEN Yuyuan Garden dates back over 450 years, to the Ming Dynasty, when it was the most prestigious in Shanghai. It’s still a stunner, with jasmine-scented pavilions, inky carp pools and bamboo groves. CRUISE TO THE BUND AND BEYOND The Bund, where stately colonial architecture meets futuristic ’scrapers, is a fine spot for a stroll – but the scale is best appreciated from a river cruise at dusk, as the city lights twinkle to life. FIND YOUR BEARINGS FROM ABOVE Topping out at 632m, Shanghai Tower is second only to Dubai’s Burj Khalifa in height, but its observation deck is the loftiest on Earth. There’s no better spot to find your bearings in the city.…

“I went back time and again. But it was hard. Both there and back home, I was an oddity” Where do you think explorers fit into the modern world? The era of the ‘classic explorer’ is gone. I was lucky to be a part of that last generation who could just disappear for six months; those other worlds have shrunk down now. But the word ‘explorer’ needs to be redefined, as it’s something we all do. The world has never been more accessible – and not just to those with the skills or money. It’s an intriguing time when anyone can go off and discover the world around them. How did you get your start? My dad was a test pilot, so I was probably a bit like him, wanting…

JAPAN WHY IT’S HOT: GRAB SOME SOUTHERN COMFORT IN THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN. We say: Tourism in Japan is now much more than Tokyo’s neon head-rush. Its rural corners hold just as much intrigue and, with new direct flights from London to Osaka (from 31 March), a new world is opening up further south for travellers. While the port city is famed for its food – its okonomiyaki pancakes are legendary – it’s also a mainline to the islands beyond. The Seto Inland Sea separates it from nearby Shikoku, which still has the feel of a remote escape, with pilgrimage trails leading up into its misty mountains and world-class cycling along its coast. Further south, Kyushu is even further off the tourist trail, pocked with forest onsen (hot…

June 2019 is set to see the completion of Sweden’s latest national cycle trail, the Sydkustleden. The route between Simrishamn and Helsingborg links up two existing trails to complete a 900km network that loops down from Växjö and back up to Gothenburg via the southern coast of the Skåne region. Explore lush forests, coastal fortresses, hip Malmö and even ‘Sweden’s Stonehenge’ (Ales Stenar). The area is known for its food, so be sure to fill up on egg cakes and spettekaka, a ribbon-like sugary treat baked on a spit. But the sweetest joy is simply pedalling the serene countryside.…

Vital statistics Capitals: Tallinn (Estonia), Riga (Latvia), Vilnius (Lithuania) Population: 1.4 million (E), 2 million (La), 2.9 million (Li) Languages: Estonian, Latvian, Lithuanian; Russian-speaking minorities throughout the region Time: GMT+3 (GMT+2 Mar–Oct) International dialling codes: +372 (E), +371 (La), +370 (Li) Visas: Not required by UK nationals. Money: Euro (€), currently around €1.13 to the UK£ When to go June–August: This is the summer high season; long, warm days. October–April: Cools down rapidly as the seasons edge towards a dark, freezing midwinter. May–September: Shoulder season; mild and uncrowded. Health & safety There are few health concerns and low crime rate in the region. Take insect repellent in summer. The trip The author travelled with Explore! (01252 883188, www.explore.co.uk),which offers seven-night Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania on Foot guided group departures between…

Beautiful Montenegro is made for exploring on horseback, and this eight-day trip allows you to experience it from the saddle. Your host will be Richard Dunwoody, a three-time Champion Jockey and now an experienced tour leader. Together you’ll explore mountains and traditional villages, enjoy home-cooked meals and immerse yourselves in magnificent scenery. ITINERARY Day 1 Kolašin Day 2 Ride to Eko Katun Vranjak Day 3 Biogradska Gora National Park Day 4 Katun Goleš to Potrk Katun Day 5 Durmitor National Park Day 6 Durmitor National Park to Žabljak Day 7 Rafting the Tara River Day 8 Tour ends in Kolašin WHAT’S INCLUDED • Richard Dunwoody as the Wild Frontiers Tour Leader • Services of local guides and drivers • Meal plan, transport (excluding international flights), accommodation and entrance fees as…

Reader travel tips Your advice on seeing the wild side of Ecuador and the Galápagos Just back from... The latest dispatches from you, dear reader, on the red sands and ancient cities of Jordan The big read: Sue Perkins Despite not being a natural adventurer (her own admission), Sue’s Asia travel shows were not just vivid TV but her way of dealing with grief – a subject she tackles head-on in her revealing new book; plus all the latest travel reads reviewed Travel health You might think that the dangers of going on safari are obvious – overly curious lions, charging buffalo, etc – but unless you take the correct medical precautions, you could be in for a surprise… Travel gear: Christmas travel gift guide Ho! Ho! Ho-ldalls… and watches…

HAVE A (N)ICE STAY “The ICEHOTEL in Sweden was, frankly, freezing. There were only reindeer skins for doors and a trip to the toilet required stepping out into a blizzard. Worth a go, once!” Gail Ashington TURKISH TWIST “We stayed at a hotel on the Bosphorus that, unknown to us, doubled up as the local brothel. The parrot would also squawk when the reception bell rang!” Kelley Parker LIFE ON THE RIVER “I stayed in a small canal boat in Manchester. It was a great example of how a tiny home could work and be moveable. A relaxing and fun weekend away!” Dawn Beachy IT’S THE PITS? “I once spent a night in an underground dug-out mine in Coober Pedy, Australia. We slept in sleeping bags on the floor as…

John Penge, Africa Product Manager at Exodus Travels, reveals his tips for seeing a wilder side to the country… Best time to visit: The wildebeest migration is at its peak in the Masai Mara between August and October. However, apart from the rainy periods (Mar–May & Nov), it is worth considering going at other times to avoid all the crowds. Where to go: For wildlife, it has to be the Masai Mara, although Lake Nakuru is more scenic and offers a better chance of seeing a rhino. Or for something totally different, Mount Kenya is the second-highest peak in Africa; it’s less busy than Kilimanjaro and is arguably more beautiful. Wildlife: The Masai Mara and Lake Nakuru offer a good chance of seeing the Big Five, but there’s there are…

East of Croydon Sue Perkins Penguin Michael Joseph, £20 Some people are born to travel, greeting every new horizon with glee and every bump in the road with steel-jawed resolve. There’s a very good chance you – brave Wanderlust reader – are one of those people. Sue Perkins, however, is not of your kind. The former Bake Off presenter finds herself out of her depth on a journey from Vietnam to China along the Mekong and then following the Ganges down from the Himalaya to the Bay of Bengal. With a set of life skills not entirely suited to filming in some of the planet’s nittiest and grittiest regions, these misadventures deliver laughs aplenty with the chaotic Perkins often making colourful digressions. “I have a voice inside me that drives…

1 SAHARA, MOROCCO The world’s largest hot desert covers around 9 million sq km. It’s not all sand, though – there are also gravel plains, lunar rockscapes and mountains. You’ll find a wealth of accessible dunes, Berber camps and camel rides in south-east Morocco at Erg Chebbi and Erg Chegaga. 2 WHITE SANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT, USA So dazzlingly pale it looks like snow (sleds frequently speed down its slopes), this rolling carpet of gypsum sand in New Mexico spans over 700 sq km and is the largest of its kind in the world. Hike to one of its backcountry campsites to bed down beneath the stars. 3 SKELETON COAST, NAMIBIA  Livid orange, over 80m tall and utterly spectacular, Dune 45 in the Namib Desert is a contender for the ultimate…

I was seven when I first heard of the Galápagos. I was given some wildlife pictures, which came with a map of the Galápagos. My father pointed to it and told me that these islands belonged to my home country of Ecuador. I just couldn’t believe it. My father, grandfather and his father were all in the armed forces. I wanted to follow them, but my dad sat me down and said: “You like freedom; you won’t find that in the navy.” I’d always loved nature, and would escape from class to hunt for grasshoppers. After this talk, I knew conservation would be my life. My job is to make people see how special the islands are. All the species we have here are because of the environment and how…