Table of contents for May 2016 in Wanderlust

Taj Mahal, The Colosseum, Machu Picchu... if you are yet to see the great travel icons, do you fear that they will be overrun with swarms of tourists? Well, we can’t promise you a crowd-free visit, but in Travel Icons ...By the Back Door (p26) we’ve asked experts to unlock the secrets to making the most of exploring the world’s honeypots. Our journeys have often been inspired by literature, and on p120 we ask some of our favourite – and most famous – travellers about the books that influenced them. It got me itching to re-read several of the classics. So let us know – whether by email, social media or on wanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust – which books got your feet itching. It was noticeable that several of Bill Bryson’s books were…

RACHEL MILLS Guidebook author Author of Rough Guides’ Canada guidebook, Rachel celebrates Parks Canada’s 105th anniversary by picking five of the country’s top national parks – see her choices on p75 Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle... which are you? The ocean. If I’m on a mountain next to an ocean, that’s a bonus. First great travel experience? Floating down a river in Laos in a rubber tube drinking a beer and thinking, ‘This is the life.’ Favourite journey? It has to be travelling by train in India, sitting in the open doorway as rural villages streaked by. Top five places worldwide? The Himalaya; the Pembrokeshire Coast, Wales; New Zealand; the west coast of the USA; Kerala, India. Passport stamp you’re proudest of? The first time my job took me abroad…

1 Socks Like any good Christmas, a pair of socks is key to a good amenity kit. Compression socks are great for long-haul flights, while a cosy pair with gripped soles are handy for walking around the cabin. 2 Eye shades The worst thing on any long-haul flight is not getting any sleep when you need it most, especially when the cabin is still lit. These are truly indispensable. 3 Toothbrush and paste These are especially handy for long-haul flights with several meals. They allow you to freshen up before you leave the plane – and you’ll be taking them anyway, so pack them in your hand luggage! 4 Mini deodorant Go for small (100ml or less is cabin-size approved) bottles to feel refreshed on a long flight. 5 Ear…

‘I think we all live in a world where it’s easy to distract yourself. If you’re isolated, you can’t do that’ You’re best known for walking the Amazon. How did the idea come about? I spent four years in the military, but the discipline and structure wasn’t really what I was after – I was more into the outdoors, the physical side, and it became an office job. When I left I fell into leading conservation expeditions – stuff that was adventurous but had a purpose to it. Then I read a book called Running the Amazon [by Joe Kane] about these guys who were the first to kayak the river, and I thought that was extraordinary. The more I learned, the more I realised that nobody had ever walked…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Trat Population: 230,000 Language: Thai. The endangered Kasong language is also spoken by older folk in remoter pockets of the province. Time: GMT+7 International dialling code: +66 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 30 days. Money: Thai Baht (THB), currently about 50THB to the £UK. Don’t change money in the UK as rates will be unfavourable. There are ATMs and exchange bureaus in Trat town and on Koh Chang and Koh Kut. Major credit cards are accepted in upmarket establishments. When to go Dry season: There is usually little rain (although varies) and it is a bit cooler – around the mid-to-high 20s (ºC). March-April: Gets warmer and wetter. Rainy season: Torrential showers most days, but interspersed with sunshine. Hot. Health &…

1 Banff National Park, Alberta Canada’s first national park (created 1885) lies deep in the Rockies. Its jagged peaks, glaciers and forests are picture-perfect but much-visited, but ditch the crowds by walking in the backcountry. 2 Gros Morne NP, Newfoundland & Labrador Boating glacial fjord Western Brook Pond is unmissable. Plus, along the park’s craggy coast are lookouts over sandy beaches and fine bays where minke whales can be spotted off-shore during the summer. 3 Pacific Rim NP Reserve, British Columbia Vancouver Island’s showpiece park is best known for Long Beach, a 30km stretch of wild coast backed by dense rainforest. Further south, the Broken Group Islands offer fine canoeing and diving, while the tough West Coast Trail begs to be explored. 4 Nahanni NP Reserve, Northwest Territories The whitewater…

1 Keep it deep  If you want your image to be sharp from front to back, you need a deep depth of field (where more of the image is in focus) rather than shallow (where only a portion of it is in focus). 2 Small aperture, big focus To get a deep depth of field you’ll need as small an aperture as possible – mine was f/22 with my 24-120mm lens. You need to focus well into the puddle – as if you were focussing on the actual subject. In this case, it was five metres into the puddle, with my focal length at 60mm. Doing this ensured sharpness reigned supreme. 3 Still waters  To keep everything perfectly pinpoint sharp while you capture the maximum depth of field – which…

AMERICAN TOURISTER Lightway 67 £115 THE TEST: As the cheapest model here, it’s surprising that this is also the lightest – 2.05kg for 66L size. It’s soft-sided, and though the fabric feels fairly robust, it doesn’t appear as thick as others at the more expensive end of the scale. It has a two-pole telescopic handle that’s easy to use and secure, and has four wheels, making it easy to manoeuvre. There’s a handle on the top as well as a more discreet one on the side, which is a nice touch, and its design saves on weight. There’s three zips on the front, though these feel the least chunky and hard-wearing of all those tested. There are two small zippable front pouches (not lockable), then a main zip compartment (lockable).…

On the platform, we stood out like sore thumbs. It was a grey and dismal day in the Ukraine and we were raring to go. Around us, locals quietly huddled in groups, staring down the train tracks, their packed lunches tucked under their arms. They were ready for a day’s work inside Chernobyl and Pripyat’s exclusion zone – the site of one of the world’s most infamous nuclear disasters in 1986. My group and I were here for just a short glimpse of the zone. I was nervous to begin with, having heard many things about the area. My friends and family had joked that I would return home emitting a bright green glow, such is the site’s enduring reputation. The tracks began to vibrate and hum as our transport…

STAR LETTER Dominica in need Our trip to Dominica in February was all the more appreciated because for several months it had seemed unlikely. In August, long after we had booked, the island suffered a major tropical storm (Erika), which killed around 35 people. Wanderlust touched upon this in its ‘Parting Shot’ section last issue [April 2016, issue 165]. The capital, Roseau, had been flooded, and for a couple of days the disaster made the international news. But, sadly for Dominica’s people – and the Zandoli Inn, where we stayed – the attention of the world soon moved on and the island’s troubles were forgotten. Our five-bedroom hotel had itself been on the receiving end of a two-foot mudslide, which caused the loss of electricity for over three weeks, the…

• Essential Info Population: 275,378 Language: Norwegian; English is widely understood and spoken Timezone: GMT+1 International dialling code: +47 Visas: British passport holders can enter Norway as a visitor for up to three months without a visa. Currency: Norwegian Krone (NOK), currently around NOK12 to the UK£. ATMs are widely available. Best viewpoint: From the top of Mount Fløyen at sunrise or sunset – you can walk or take the funicular from the city centre; from NOK90 [£7.50] return. Another option is Mount Ulriken – walking to its summit is possible, or you can take the bus from town then catch the cable car to the top for NOK245 return [£20.50]. Health issues: None, but health insurance is wise; see wanderlustinsurance.co.uk. Recommended guidebook: Insight Guides is the only series which…

1 Suffering from a hangover or diarrhoea? Sri Lanka’s ‘king coconut’ is the ideal remedy; p16 2 Orcas never mate with members of the same pod; p40 3 Triberg in German Bavaria is home to the world’s largest cuckoo clock; p86 4 The Bay of Virgins in the Marquesas Islands was originally named the ‘Bay of Dicks’, thanks to its phallic-shaped mountains; p102 5 Using the word farang can prompt confusion in Thailand: it means both European foreigner (slang) and guava fruit; p54…

A LIFE WITH ELEPHANTS London, 3 May  www.rgs.org Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, London, SW7 2AR. 7pm. Tickets cost £22.50. Conservationist Saba Douglas-Hamilton – of Big Cat Diaries fame – talks animal tales and living in Kenya. BRISTOL TRAVELLERS’ CLUB Bristol, 10 May  www.marcopolotravel.co.uk YHA, 14 Narrow Quay, Bristol, BS1 4QA. From 7:10pm. £3.50 with part of the fee donated to Samaritans and Water Aid. Tickets on the door. Colin Knowles on his Central Asian adventure and Jim McLaughlin talks through his travels in Namibia. GLOBETROTTERS CLUB Chester, 21 May  www.chesterglobetrotters.co.uk Grosvenor Museum, Chester, CH1 2DD. From 1pm. £3. For details, email chesterbranch@globetrotters.co.uk Jim Holmes talks about development projects in Afghanistan and ecologist Terry Callaghan of his time high up in Central Asia’s Altai Mountains. KESWICK MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL Keswick,…

Guides can turn a good trip into a great one. And while they’re often the unsung heroes of the travel world, your appreciation of them hasn’t wavered – nominations from you have arrived in their thousands, singling out those guides who really have made your trip an adventure of a lifetime. And, now we’ve achieved the ever- tricky task of narrowing our shortlist to just eight guides, we turn to you to help choose a winner. If you’ve worked or travelled with any of the shortlisted guides (right), please send us your comments and feedback via post, email or through our website (www.worldguideawards.co.uk) to help the judges decide. The final three will be recognised and awarded bursaries in a ceremony at the Royal Geographical Society on 6 October 2016. Wipaporn…

Think Germany and you can’t help but think Berlin – with its fascinating history and urban cool – or the legendary annual gathering that is Munich’s Oktoberfest. Yet for anyone looking for a natural escape, there are few better destinations. From the coastal mudflats of Hamburg to the Black Forest of the south-west, to the alpine ridges of Bavaria, Germany is a country packed full of dramatic and diverse landscapes just waiting to be explored. Across the country, a vast network of cycle routes and walking trails slice their way through ancient woodland, up onto mountain passes and around glistening lakes. Whether exploring on two wheels or on foot, the sight of Germany’s serrated peaks is a rallying cry to anyone in search of a picturesque outing. Then there’s the…

Tell us about the trip? I biked approximately 100km a day, five days a week for five weeks in Ireland. How did you choose that adventure? I got pregnant for the second time and thought any adventures were behind me. But then I had an idea, a joke really. I thought about exploring the Wild Atlantic Way, a new scenic route in Ireland, maybe with a campervan and the family. My friend suggested I’d bike it. With a giggle, I texted my husband about ‘the plan’ of me biking 2,000+ kilometres, leaving him and the kids at home. What I intended as an entertaining joke, he took seriously. And that was that, I thought I’d better take it and myself seriously too. How was the adventure? Incredible. In five weeks,…

‘Tummy problems are rife – Egypt is, after all, the country once dubbed by Napoleon’s troops as “the land of the menstruating men”’ INDIA THE PERCEIVED RISK: Delhi belly THE REALITY: India is home to over a billion people, so there is indeed a chance of contracting infections – but some of the nasty ones don’t come through food but through air-sharing. The rapidly fatal but vaccine-preventable meningococcus bacterium, which can result in meningitis and septicaemia, is the prime example. Indian pharmacies are well-stocked but counterfeit medicines are in circulation – doctors’ clinics should be able to provide quality medicines, but shun any product with a packet or packet insert that has spelling mistakes. PERU THE PERCEIVED RISK: Altitude sickness THE REALITY: Trains can take you high enough to provoke…

This was the moment I had been waiting for; the literal pinnacle of a month-long trip to Vietnam: the Hai Van Pass. It was also the end of my trip, so money had become tight. I had to get from Hue to Danang, and renting a motorcycle was out of the question. I was also told that the bus route skipped most of the pass, which left only one option: the train. I planned the timing of the journey meticulously, hoping to cross the pass at the point where the sun was beginning its lazy descent. The skies were clear; the weather perfect. I chewed thoughtfully on my pen lid, trying to capture the moment in my journal, when a local man took it upon himself to sit opposite me…

Enjoying slow travel at its unexpected best. The beauty of Burma is not to be rushed, as our delayed 33-hour train journey proved! maurice129 Reading and rambling. A bit of walking before a night in with @wanderlustmag :) janemcintyre12 Getting marooned in the Bolivian Pampas. Our boat was stuck among the reeds in Madidi National Park – thankfully we managed to free ourselves! Brooke_Nolan Mixing travel with the perfect mid-morning tea break. I’d love to learn how to make a Moroccan mint tea. That stuff is so good! Kayleigh Nicolaou Reminiscing about a special day, Danish-style. I spent my 20th birthday in the city of Aarhus! jeffwsea Plotting a return trip to Sri Lanka. I have great memories – it’s such a diverse country and so easy to get around.…

Essential Info When to go: Year-round, though the city is busiest in high summer and during the September film festival (sansebastianfestival.com). Getting there: There are flights to Bilbao (75 mins from San Sebastián by road; buses every hour, €16.85 [£13]) from several UK airports. British Airways (britishairways.com) flies from London Heathrow from £62 one-way; flight time 2hrs. Getting around: San Sebastián is best explored either on foot or by bike. The city’s cycle hire scheme (dbizi.com) costs €1 (£0.75) per hour or €8 (£6) per day. Where to stay: The luxurious and starry Hotel Maria Cristina (hotel-mariacristina.com) is a firm favourite with the film festival’s A-listers; doubles from €200 (£152). Hotel Niza (hotelniza.com) is on Paseo de la Concha; doubles from €89 (£68). Pensión Amaiur (pensionamaiur.com) is a charming Old…

To celebrate 100 years of US National Parks, the National Parks Conservation Association have marked the date in rather unique style. Merging design chic with natural beauty, it has released See America: A Celebration of Our National Parks & Treasured Sites (Chronicle Books, £13), a collection of hand-drawn, parks-inspired illustrations crowdsourced from artists across 50 states. It’s not as left-field as you’d think. For 75 years the US government commissioned posters to advertise its natural wonders under the banner ‘See America’. Some were kitsch, others beautiful, many were icons of pure design, and over time they showcased not just changing art trends but the enduring appeal of the parks they depicted – a spirit the new posters sought to resurrect. The sheer diversity of landscapes is artfully captured, from the…

PHOEBE SMITH • EDITOR • Swapping the USA to drive the original road trip route, Deutsch-style SEE PAGE 86 TOM HAWKER • PRODUCTION EDITOR • Pondering over tattoo designs with Marquesas Islands’ artists SEE PAGE 102 GARETH CLARK • SUB EDITOR/WRITER • Sneaking through the back door of many of the globe’s top sights SEE PAGE 26 RHODRI ANDREWS • EDITORIAL ASSISTANT • Shopping for accessories to go in his first homemade amenity kit SEE PAGE 12…

‘Many carriers are looking at making their amenity kits more collectable to encourage passengers to take them away to keep’ Ever picked up and used the contents of a free amenity kit during a flight, only to leave it behind? It’s not just you. The bags, which can contain anything from ear plugs to toothbrushes, are a huge waste issue. One airline admitted that kits left on their planes created 367 tonnes of waste in 2014 alone. So how are they combating the issue? “Airlines have adapted what they offer,” says Julie Baxter of Onboard Hospitality magazine, which this year saw the ‘amenity kit’ category in its annual awards stacked with entries focusing on sustainability and reusability. “As kits are often abandoned with just one or two items used, carriers…

While a country’s cooking often reflects its history, in Sri Lanka’s case its geography has arguably had the greatest impact on its fiery cuisine. Thanks to a bounty of native spices (curry leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, etc) growing wild on its forested hills and tropical plains, Sri Lanka duly earned its nickname of ‘Spice Island’. Then, under Portuguese, Dutch and British rule, more ingredients were added as it became a thriving trading outpost. The dishes of the northern island were fired by chillies brought in by Portuguese merchants. This inspired the trademark dry heat that sets Sri Lankan curries apart. Even the Dutch left their legacy in breudher, a sweet, fruity cake now eaten at New Year’s. And with the British came the plantations that exist to this day. Visits via…

Natural Navigator Tristan Gooley is back with more handy tips for reading the world around us, and this time with a focus on the aquatic. How To Read Water (Sceptre, £20) is another practical guide that arms you with the info to weaponise your walks and inspire you into your wellies. Leigh Ann Henion’s passion for the natural world sends the young mum around the planet in Phenomenal (Penguin, £13). Her immersion in the wild wonders – Venezuela’s lightning, Mexico’s butterflies, Tanzania’s great migration – while balancing her responsibilities as a parent and wife is a tale of spiritual nourishment. Many people have found gold for the soul on the Camino de Santiago and Jean-Christophe Rufin is no exception. The Santiago Pilgrimage (MacLehose Press, £15) takes Rufin along the lesser-travelled…

Many congratulations to the following fantastic guides who also deserve a special mention: Siân Walters Art History in Focus Dheeraj ‘Monty’ Bhatt Intrepid Luca Alfatti Secret Compass Daniele Binaghi Journey Latin America Esteban Biamonte Naturetrek Mahdi Hanini Ramblers Worldwide Holidays Krishna Pujari Reality Tours & Travel Have you travelled with one of these extraordinary shortlisted guides? If you have a tale to tell or praise for one of our eight incredible tour leaders, please drop us a line. Tell us what you love about their work and why you think they deserve this coveted industry accolade – the only one of its kind. Send your comments by: POST: Wanderlust World Guide Awards [name of guide], 1 Leworth Place, Mellor Walk, Windsor SL4 1EB EMAIL: topguide@wanderlust.co.uk ONLINE: Post your comments online…

Vicky Boughton, senior product manager at adventure tour operator Exodus (exodus.co.uk), shares her tips on where to find the best of BC’s wonderful wildlife… WHAT’S SPECIAL: Clayoquot Sound is a vast area of temperate rainforest with fjord inlets, islands and extensive beaches. Board a Zodiac boat from Tofino to search for resident grey and humpback whales in the surrounding waters. Black bears can also be spotted digging for crabs and clams on the rocky shoreline. The abundant marine and birdlife here will not disappoint: seals, sea lions, sea otters and orca also inhabit this stunning region. MUST SEE: The annual ‘salmon run’ in September is incredible. Pitched against a backdrop of giant firs and towering mountains, grizzly bears patrol the shingle bank and ice-blue water of the Orford River, which…

SOFT-SIDED OR HARD-SIDED? Soft-sided luggage tends to use tightly knit, robust fabric to help protect it against the rigours of baggage handling. If opting for this, look for a waterproof lining to keep things dry inside – though leaks can still occur if left outside. The disadvantage is that fabrics can rip, though are easier to repair. Hard-sided luggage is made from moulded plastic; it is usually extremely strong and made to withstand heavy impact. This can make them weighty, though lightweight strong materials are available. Things will tend to be dryer inside a hard shell, albeit water can still get in through the zips. Of course, they can crack or dent and are consequently harder to repair. INSIDE Some cases are divided into different compartments, which is handy for…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Berlin Population: 80 million Languages: German. English is spoken in most hotels and tourist attractions, but not always in small villages. Time: GMT+1 (GMT+2 Mar-Oct) International dialling code: +49 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Money: Euro (EUR), currently €1.25 to the UK£. Credit cards are widely accepted and ATMs are readily available in towns. When to go Spring & autumn: The best time to avoid the crowds. Spring sees the landscape covered in blossoming flowers and autumn is a great time for wine. Summer: Warm and good for outdoor activities and tree camping, though accommodation books up fast. Winter: Road trips are still possible, but many places close for the season and some high mountain passes may be inaccessible…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Taiohae on Nuku Hiva Population: 9,264 (approx) Language(s): French and Tahitian (official), Marquesan (unofficial) Time: GMT-9.30 (does not observe any daylight saving changes) International dialling code: +689 Visas: UK nationals don’t require a visa for stays under 30 days. However, you will need to apply for an ESTA in advance for any transfers through Los Angeles Airport (esta.cbp.dhs.gov). Money: Pacific Franc (XFP), currently around 154XFP to the UK£. ATMs accepting international cards can be found on the main islands such as Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, and you can change currency aboard the Aranui V. When to go Summer – These months are the driest and the seas are calmest for landings and diving, with average temperatures of around 26°C. The Marquesas Art Festival is usually held…

The highlight: Ometepe Island in Nicaragua: volcanoes, howler monkeys, quiet beaches, beautiful sunsets, some crazy extreme athletes and that surrounding lake, which seemed more like an ocean. Must see: Loads! The Panama Canal; Bastimentos Island; the hummingbirds of Monteverde, Costa Rica; Playa las Penitas and Ometepe Island in Nicaragua; Suchitoto in El Salvador, and plenty more… Top tip: Take lots of bottled water to ensure you stay hydrated. Cautionary tale: Make sure you are early at border crossings. I wish I’d known... How much fun chicken buses would be! I also didn’t feel San José, Costa Rica’s capital, was a must-see city. Anything else? It was an amazing road trip, which enabled me to get a taster of several different countries across Central America in three weeks. I would definitely…

How did Peter Sommer start? I didn’t travel when I was growing up but at university I pored over ancient texts and the accounts of travel writers. That inspired me to spend four-and-a-half months walking 2,000 miles across Turkey in 1994, retracing the steps of Alexander the Great. I ended up speaking with travel writer John Freely, who recommended I start leading tours. So, I ended up creating and leading archaeological tours for Simply Turkey. For the next decade I juggled running tours with directing/ producing TV documentaries, eventually focusing on Peter Sommer Travels. Early challenges? The most personal hair-raising stories have been my encounters with the famed kangal dogs in Turkey. They are simply huge, resembling lions more than hounds. While out walking I have run into them a…