Table of contents for May 2017 in Wallpaper

JASON KOXVOLD Photographer ‘I’ve been familiar with his projects for some time, but I was taken aback by his humility and generosity,’ says Koxvold of Mohamed Alabbar, whom he photographed for our profile on page 096. ‘The realisation of his vision for Dubai has proven many people wrong.’ Up next for the Brooklyn-based photographer is Black Water, a series that examines the cultural reverberations of years of constant war against the backdrop of military facilities in the Middle East. JOHN ARLIDGE Writer John Arlidge was the ideal person to profile Mohamed Alabbar (page 096), whom he describes as the most successful and Western-leaning of the new generation of Arab business leaders. ‘I first met him when he was building the Burj Khalifa ten years ago and I’ve charted his rise…

the debut collection of multifarious lighting designer moritz waldemeyer takes inspiration from the flame as the original light source. ‘candlelight has accompanied humans since prehistoric times,’ he says. ‘its emotional fascination is hard-wired into our psyche, creating a universal appeal across cultures.’ since founding his studio in 2004, waldemeyer has produced an impressive portfolio of lighting projects of all scales, for clients ranging from fashion brands to rockstars. he now channels this lighting expertise into a new venture, creating products that combine lighting technology with a nod to the past. waldemeyer and his team experimented with leds to successfully recreate the movement of a flame. the result is a collection whose shapes reference traditional lighting, but which are embedded with cutting-edge technology. ‘eternal Flame’ and ‘midnight oil’ display the silhouettes…

Food is playing an increasingly important role at Salone del mobile. For this year’s event, restaurant 28posti and its young noma-trained chef marco ambrosino have invited a number of leading product designers to devise a dish that will feature on the menu during Salone week. the participants are matteo cibic, diego grandi, Studio irvine, cristina celestino and eligo Studio (formerly known as Segnoitaliano). each was given the same ingredients (oyster, white cabbage, wild fennel and radish) to create a recipe with the help of ambrosino. alberto nespoli and domenico rocca, of eligo Studio, concocted daikon spaghetti with oyster mayonnaise, sweet-and-sour radish and crispy wild fennel (below), which will appear on the 28posti menu on april 5. 28posti.org ON POINT The pencil has been given an olfactory makeover by caran d’ache,…

David Adjaye knows a thing or two about how sound should work in a space. For the British-Ghanaian architect’s ‘Music for Architecture’ collaboration with his DJ brother, Peter, the pair worked together on musical accompaniments to many of the Adjaye’s works. And one doesn’t get to design the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington DC, the Aïshti Foundation in Beirut, retail spaces for the likes of Proenza Schouler, Valextra and Roksanda Ilincic, as well as impressive private residences all over the world without more than a passing understanding of acoustics. Since founding his practice in 2000, Adjaye has also dabbled in furniture design, creating seating for Moroso and Knoll. But the speaker he has developed in collaboration with New York-based audio company Master & Dynamic…

The Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club in Miami has been one of the most talked-about openings in recent times. The original Surf Club was founded by tyre tycoon Harvey Firestone in 1930. In its midcentury heyday it was the scene of beach-front misbehavings of the most exclusive sort. This was a club with closed doors, behind which anything could happen and much did. There were poolside fashion shows, late-night boxing galas, elephants at parties and booze on the beach during Prohibition. Visitors included Winston Churchill, Liberace, Frank Sinatra, Alfred Hitchcock and Mohammad Reza, Shah of Iran. It was a fantasy, a bubble, a world of its own. More than 85 years later, and after a few decades of slumber, The Surf Club is reopening as the latest jewel…

Dino Gavina is one of the founding fathers of Italian design. Over a career spanning 55 years, the designer and entrepreneur launched legendary companies such as Flos, Gavina and Simon, working closely with furniture and creative luminaries such as Carlo Scarpa, Marcel Breuer and Pier Giacomo and Achille Castiglioni. Gavina operated in what critic Beppe Finessi called ‘the heroic season’ of Italian design, the great post-war flowering that lasted till the end of the 1960s when companies like Cassina, Kartell and Arflex were founded, and when Bruno Munari and Ettore Sottsass were revolutionising the art of living. While working as a theatre set designer, Gavina met artist Lucio Fontana, who became a sort of creative mentor. Fontana introduced Gavina to design through a visit to the Milan Triennale in the…

The Bartlett’s new base The recent upgrade of its central London campus prioritises The Bartlett School of Architecture’s role as an increasingly diverse and public-facing institution. Architecture firm Hawkins\Brown orchestrated a deep retrofit of the school’s home – the former Wates House, built in 1974 under the challenging restrictions of the Bloomsbury Conservation Area – to achieve a hardworking solution to The Bartlett’s chronic shortage of space. The shrewd redesign has respected the original building while transforming the space, expanding it by 3,000 sq m. The original façade was brought up to the site boundary, while two upper floors and a full-height extension were added. A new double-height glazed entrance opens the building up to the public, while inside, concrete has been left raw within the informal areas, and versatile…

Oysters with pink peppercorn mignonette sauce For 12 oysters 1 echalion (or banana) shallot 100ml red wine vinegar ¼ tsp sugar ¼ tsp salt 2 tsp pink peppercorns, crushed under the flat of a knife 12 oysters, shucked and on the half shell Mince the shallot very finely and place in a bowl. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, salt and crushed pink peppercorns. Cover and chill for at least a couple of hours before serving with oysters. Hurricane Makes 1 50ml white rum 50ml dark rum 50ml orange juice 50ml passion fruit juice 2 tbs lime juice 1 tbs grenadine syrup slice of orange 1 maraschino cherry Measure the rums, juices and grenadine syrup into a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice. Shake, then strain into a tall glass half-filled with…

Cover photography: Philippe Lacombe Fashion: Roberta Pinna ‘Flat Plate Pinky’ ring, £1,400, by Dina Kamal. ‘Tiffany T’ wire bracelet, £1,500, by Tiffany & Co. Shirt, £179, by Boss. Material alchemy, new creative forms and a desire to explore industrial techniques: the principles of design have crossed into the world of fine watches and jewellery like never before. It’s time, then, to launch Precious Index, our new title exploring these rare industries from Wallpaper’s design-eye view. To prove the point, in this first issue we reveal how Lord Foster’s passion for aeronautic and watch design serendipitously collided for Cartier, which persuaded the architect to curate the upcoming exhibition, ‘Cartier in Motion’, at London’s Design Museum (p032). We also got a chance to step beyond usually locked doors. Van Cleef & Arpels…

There’s a need for careful engineering when designing jewellery for the head. The architectural aspect was not lost on Central Saint Martins student Scott Armstrong, who has designed a new headpiece for French high-jewellery house Chaumet. His tiara design is a centrepiece in ‘Imperial Splendors’, a decorative arts exhibition that opens at the Palace Museum in Beijing on 11 April. Chaumet, famed for its tiaras, will display storied creations dating from the 18th century to today. Armstrong was one of 60 jewellery design students at the London art school to enter a competition set by the house to design a tiara for the 21st century. He responded with his ‘Vertiges’ jewel, a light structure of criss-crossing straight and curved lines. Armstrong abstracted the symmetrical grids favoured in French formal gardens,…

‘Maybe you’re going to become a painter like your father.’ That’s what people would say to me when I was very young. I didn’t know then what I was going to be, but I was so afraid to be compared to my parents [Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot], it became an obsession: whatever I did there would be no aesthetic links to what they did, so that people could see my work as something of its own. This was a springboard for me to be my best. I knew I didn’t have room to make errors, because everybody would be pointing and looking at the faults. It was while I was living in Venice as a teenager that I started having ideas about jewellery design. It was the 1960s and…

DEEP TIME Abstract layers create a rich relief SHADOW PLAY Polishing and finishing techniques heighten the all-black mood BLACK OUT Carbotech makes its horological debut For stockists, see page 056 Set assistants: Ali Bailon, Mihaela Popa…

This spring, a trio of womenswear designers are putting their own spin on the classic white shirt. ‘It represents purity, a fresh take,’ says Maria Cornejo, of New York label Zero + Maria Cornejo, of her interpretation, which features a deep V-neck and drawstring details. ‘I’ve used a responsibly sourced viscose material that I love,’ she says. ‘It was developed using a yarn manufactured from a mixture of Norway spruce and Scots pine wood pulp, sourced from sustainable forests in Domsjö, Sweden. Meanwhile, Brazilian-born, London-based designer Barbara Casasola describes her buttoned-up design with accentuated collar as ‘serious and pared-down but feminine.’ Femininity comes courtesy of its cream colouring and soft Italian poplin fabric, a mixture of cotton and silk. Finally, Dimitra Kolotoura and Mareva Grabowski, the duo behind Greek label…

Last year, Paris-based auction house Artcurial sold several pieces of furniture from the reclaimed interior of the Port Autonome de Marseille offices in the French capital. The 1970s project was one of the last remaining complete works by French architect and designer Maxime Old (1910-91). His unique pieces of furniture, usually bespoke creations for specific projects or exhibitions, only occasionally surface at auction. His public and private interiors – which demonstrate just as much artistic bravura as those of his more famous contemporaries, such as Jean Royère, Jacques Adnet and André Arbus – are gradually disappearing. Fortunately, Old’s biggest interior projects, all in Rouen, remain intact. Old was a master of design, specialising in custommade furniture objects and creating many public and private spaces during his long career. He was…

A little over a decade ago, Iranian-born, Los Angelesbased gallerist Shulamit Nazarian staged her first exhibition, a survey of emerging Vietnamese artists, in the iconic A Quincy Jones-designed Beverly Hills residence she purchased after her divorce. ‘I invited the Iranian community, the Jewish community I knew, and it was such a great mix of people,’ says Nazarian from the art-filled office of her new 3,000 sq ft Hollywood gallery, carved out of a former auto garage on North La Brea Avenue. After that first show, a group of artists, primarily Iranian and Israeli, asked Nazarian if they could stage their own exhibition in her house. She said yes. ‘Part of it was my own curiosity about the Iranian art world. I wanted to reconnect with my history and what’s happening…

A world of oenophile wonders and spirit-raising accoutrements Nestled in Portugal’s rolling Alentejo countryside, Herdade do Freixo winery is located just outside the whitewashed, terracotta-tiled town of Redondo. Here, wine is stored at a cool 40m below ground, in what resembles a minimalist concrete nuclear bunker. To reduce any visual impact on the Syrah vineyard above, local architect Frederico Valsassina designed a series of square shafts around the gaping rectangular entranceway. A protruding conical funnel at the structure’s heart allows plenty of air and light to enter the cellar, which is dug at the highest point of the 300-hectare estate. Below the surface, a spiralling concrete ramp echoes the form of the Guggenheim Museum in New York, providing access to the three levels of the winery. Skylights are deliberately placed…

he story of Bottega Ghianda demonstrates the entrepreneurial guile, good fortune and smart connections common to so many of Italy’s finest family operations. It begins in 1889, when Iginio Ghianda established a small bottega, or workshop, next to his home in Bovisio-Masciago, in the heart of Brianza. He started out producing inlaid parquet flooring, before moving into wooden aeroplane propellers and then, from around 1920, furniture. Pierluigi Ghianda was born in 1926 into this family of falegnami, or woodworkers. After Iginio died in 1938, his wife Serafina ran the business while Pierluigi and his brother Giuseppe juggled their studies and apprenticeships. They took over in 1945. In 1936, Gio Ponti had asked Iginio to work on a writing desk, ‘Montecatini’. The relationship with Ponti proved pivotal for the workshop, with…

Part coat rack, part wardrobe and part vide-poche, the eGroom Attelef stands by to ensure you are suitably accessorised. Crafted from brick-coloured bridle cowhide, it is hand saddle-stitched and linked with palladium brass carabiners and rings. Itfs the standout item in the Lien dfHermes collection of home accessories, presented in Milan, which includes a bottle rack, a coat hanger, a log holder, vases and lidded boxes, all sporting Hermesf signature bridle leather. Now summon your stallion. Ý Until 9 April, La Pelota, Via Palermo 10, Milan, hermes.com…

Salone del Mobile is a circus and Jaime Hayon would like you to roll up, roll up to Palazzo Serbelloni, where his glossy black merry-goround for Caesarstone will be spinning like a life-sized kaleidoscope inside a pavilion of stained glass and quartz. Anyone with the stomach for it is welcome to hop aboard. ‘Stone Age Folk’ is the latest in a series of spectacles produced by Caesarstone, the maker of high-grade engineered quartz and a perennial design-week ringleader. Hayon, the Valencia-based designer beloved for his fantastical ceramics and sinuous furniture, proved a natural collaborator for the brand. At furniture fairs like Milan, the ‘fair’ element is often glaringly absent. Yet Palazzo Serbelloni – a setting for lavish parties long before Napoleon and Josephine squatted there in the late 18th century…

A Aeyde aeyde.com Alessi alessi.com AMI Tel: 33.1 84 17 58 79 (France) amiparis.com Anya Hindmarch Tel: 44.20 7493 1628 (UK) anyahindmarch.com Armani Casa armanicasa.com Artel Tel: 420.271 732 161 (Czech Republic) artelglass.com Asprey Tel: 44.20 7493 6767 (UK) asprey.com B Baccarat Tel: 44.20 3318 6087 (UK) baccarat.com Bally Tel: 44.20 7499 0057 (UK) bally.com Barbara Casasola barbaracasasola.com Baxter Tel: 39.031 35999 (Italy) baxter.it Berluti Tel: 44.20 7437 1740 (UK) berluti.com Burberry Tel: 44.20 7806 8904 (UK) burberry.com C Calvin Klein Home Tel: 44.800 7463 6499 (UK) calvinklein.com Cappellini Tel: 39.02 7600 3889 (Italy) cappellini.it Caruso at Mr Porter mrporter.com Cerruti 1881 cerruti.com Christian Liaigre christian-liaigre.fr Christian Louboutin Tel: 44.843 227 4322 (UK) christianlouboutin.com Christofle Tel: 33.2 35 05 99 58 (France) christofle.com Colony Tel: 44.20 7351 3232 (UK) colonyfabrics.com…

For stockists, see page 056 Throughout his Thin White Duke period, in 1976, David Bowie sported a sliver of white metal on his left wrist. A symbol of refined simplicity, the bracelet marked Bowie’s departure from his ostentatious Ziggy Stardust persona. Today, the idea of pared-back adornment is re-emerging, with a handful of jewellers offering an understated alternative to the rocker look that has dominated contemporary men’s jewellery. Paris-based label Le Gramme was ahead of the curve. The brand launched in 2012 with a plain silver cuff available in densities of 41, 33, 21, 15 and 7g. ‘We chose an elementary shape and reduced it sympathetically,’ says co-founder Adrien Messié of the mathematical designs, created in a 20-step process. That process of refinement is central to the methodology of Beirut-based…

Nothing captures the uncanny wonder of mechanical craft quite like figurative automata. Hand-programmed to mimic not just human movement but often emotions too, these clockwork figures, popularised in 18th-century royal courts, are today mostly seen in museums. So an invitation to visit the automaton maker François Junod, in his studio in the Swiss mountain region of Vaud, is an intriguing one. Bar a cult following in Japan, Junod is relatively unknown outside the core Swiss watch community (his skill is related to traditional horological engineering). He is one of just a handful of contemporary automata craftsmen. This year, his reputation as a master is being heightened further by a collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels. Junod was one of 20 remarkable craft specialists invited to collaborate on a unique brief…

Audemars Piguet Tel: 44.20 7659 7300 (UK) audemarspiguet.com Bell & Ross Tel: 44.20 7629 6464 (UK) bellross.com Boss Tel: 44.20 7734 7919 (UK) hugoboss.com Boucheron Tel: 44.20 7514 9170 (UK) boucheron.com Bulgari Tel: 44.20 7297 4440 (UK) bulgari.com Chanel chanel.com De Grisogono Tel: 44.20 7499 2225 (UK) degrisogono.com Dina Kamal Tel: 44.7919 985787 (UK) dinakamal.com Dover Street Market Tel: 44.20 7518 0680 (UK) doverstreetmarket.com Gieves & Hawkes Tel. 44.20 7434 2001 (UK) gievesandhawkes.com Girrard-Perregaux at Selfridges Tel: 44.20 7952 2730 (UK) selfridges.com Graff graffdiamonds.com Harlequin harlequin.uk.com Hermès Tel: 44.20 7499 8856 (UK) hermes.com Hublot Tel: 44.20 3214 9970 (UK) hublot.com JAB Anstoetz Tel: 44.20 7348 6620 (UK) jab.de Jessica McCormack Tel: 44.20 7491 9999 (UK) jessicamccormack.com Kirkby Design Tel: 44.1623 756699 (UK) kirkbydesign.com Le Gramme Tel: 33.1 85 34 70…

Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on London design duo Fredrikson Stallard have mastered the art of making complex processes look seemingly effortless. Their latest work, a line of monolithic vessels, is no different. Designed to hold plants, both indoors and out, the sculptural ‘Hybridae’ series is made by moulding objects in terracotta, then digitally enlarging them into permanent pieces cast in solid white bronze. The precise process ensures every detail, including fingerprints and traces of machinery, are meticulously captured and magnified in the final shimmering works. fredriksonstallard.com…

the idea of subscribing to a magazine has been with us for ever, and in recent years the subscription model has also been applied to things like veg boxes and contact lenses. but now a bunch of start-ups in the Us and the Uk have followed their hunch that subscriptions could work for men’s shaving products, too. but there are big challenges, as oliver bridge, founder of british brand cornerstone, explains: ‘not only are we trying to convince people to change brand, but also to change from bricks-and-mortar shopping to online subscriptions.’ Morgans in new jersey offers a similar service to its subscribers, who pay $12 a month to get 75 per cent off a range of simply packaged grooming products, including razors and bamboohandled toothbrushes. the best-smelling products come…

It ’s a concrete Valhalla, concealed behind the arches of Piazza San Marco in Venice. The Negozio Olivetti, once a showroom for the company’s typewriters and calculators, designed by its erstwhile art director Carlo Scarpa in 1957-58, and now a museum run by FAI (the Italian Environmental Foundation), is an architectural treat. It’s one that the French architect and design-art collector Charles Zana never tires of visiting. ‘The staircase is possibly one of the most Instagrammed pieces of architecture,’ he says. It was while caressing the concrete balustrades of the interior during 2015’s Venice Art Biennale that Zana struck on the idea of introducing the space to a new crowd – the Biennale art-trippers – by combining it with the work of Ettore Sottsass, another of his design heroes (and…

Golden age HOTEL EDEN, ROME A sensation when it first opened in 1889, Hotel Eden has got its sparkle back. An 18-month spruce-up has updated the hotel’s enduring Roman style with rich textures, fine fabrics and a deliciously pale, gold-accented palette. For this, plaudits go to Bruno Moinard and Claire Betaille of Paris-based interiors firm 4BI & Associés, whose sumptuous overhaul continues in the public spaces. The lobby, now swathed in gold, grey stucco marble and frescos by Italian artist Gia Bressana, is an impressive meeting place. The new Eden Spa offers treatments using products from historic Florence pharmacy Officina Profumo, while restaurant and bar Il Giardino is a stylish haven from Rome’s bustling streets. But the jewel in the crown is La Terrazza, Hotel Eden’s new rooftop restaurant, which…

NAME GUSTAVO MARTINI BASED MILAN wEB GUSTAVOMARTINI.cOM Milan-based designer Gustavo Martini – the wallpaper* and Officine Panerai Next Generation Designer of the Year – was born in Brazil and has spent the majority of his life in Rio de Janeiro. ‘I have a strong sense of connection with the city, which I believe combines two contrasting worlds – the metropolis and the surrounding rainforest.’ The contrast between natural and manmade is a recurring theme in the designer’s work: sleek graphic lines meet irregular cuts of stone, cork and wood. In Martini’s furniture designs, traditional archetypes are stripped back and updated. ‘Cabideiro Três’ is a sculptural valet stand made from black metal and Brazilian timber, while his ‘Gana’ stool is designed for openplan living. This is Martini’s second year as an…

In the world of Japanese artist and designer Tokujin Yoshioka, glass chairs suddenly disappear when wet, and swirling clouds turn out to be drinking straws. His work defies definition, a legacy perhaps of the 20-odd years he has spent working with Issey Miyake. But there is warmth and wonder in his work, as witnessed in ‘S.F_Senses of the Future’, his collaboration with LG at this year’s Salone. Whet your appetite with his favourite treat, wagashi, Japanese sweets that have evolved into an art form. Yoshioka’s installation will be on show until 9 April at via Tortona 27, Milan. For his recipe, see Wallpaper.com ∫…

Gerry McGovern uses the same fluid lexicon to talk about both horology and cars. Sentences feature words such as ‘integrity’, ‘luxury’ and ‘emotional connection’. Land Rover’s design director is talking Wallpaper* through his collaboration with watchmaker Zenith. ‘The 42mm case is ceramic-coated but made of aluminium,’ he says of the Zenith El Primero Range Rover Special Edition chronograph. ‘That’s a first for Zenith and an important detail for us, because the Range Rover, the Range Rover Sport and the new Defender [due in 2019] are all made of aluminium.’ The chronograph, with its leather strap perforated to look like luxe car upholstery, honours the year 1969, when Zenith unveiled its revolutionary, self-winding El Primero movement, and when Land Rover introduced its elegantly butch Range Rover model. McGovern visited Zenith’s factory…

There’s something magical about see-through watches with cases made entirely of sapphire crystal. Richard Mille was a pioneering force in this area of horological design, while MB&F, Greubel Forsey and Hublot are increasingly pushing the boundaries of form and cutting technology. Not only does the use of sapphire crystal result in a visually arresting watch housing, but its toughness is almost unrivalled. ‘It can only be marked by a diamond, so it stays beautifully transparent, without any scratches,’ says Ricardo Guadalupe, Hublot’s CEO. Synthetic sapphire, the base material, is grown in laboratories using a melted mixture of aluminium oxide that, on cooling, forms crystal cylinders known as ‘boules’. Its scratch resistance makes it popular as a ‘glass’ in industrial design; it is used in barcode scanners, laser rods and new-generation…