Table of contents for Fall 2025 in Threads Magazine

Turning 40 is a milestone often greeted with ambivalence. Is it the end of youth? The start of an unwelcome aging process? Many of us who are further along the timeline can confirm that 40 feels young, and that the experience gained from four decades is a feature, not a bug, of living. We know more and do better. Celebrating Threads' 40th anniversary has led me to reflect on the wealth of wisdom our contributors have shared with us all since 1985. In the past four decades, sewing has been redefined, re-evaluated, and, lately, rejuvenated. Online learning, indie patterns, upcycling, and more have brought new energy to this pursuit we love. Now more than ever, sewing (especially garment sewing) feels like a way of life for the future. In this…

This season’s runway trends were all about femininity. After years of “quiet luxury” and athleisure, we were due for a return to fun in fashion. Ruffles in all forms were seen in the fall and winter collections of designers everywhere, from Chanel and Ulla Johnson to Alain Paul and Louis Vuitton. Meanwhile, the upcycling trend continues to hold our attention. Between being mindful of the environment and the rise in clothing costs, we may find this is the perfect opportunity to refresh a neglected item in our wardrobes by giving it a trendy upgrade. Ruffles do not have to be cloying or stuffy. I gave this project an edgier, organic look by using raw-edged fabric strips. The fabric’s rough, unfinished edges, combined with the tonal colors, give the embellishments more…

Unlined jackets and capes are popular in transitional seasons like autumn. Unfortunately, the wrong sides of some fashion fabrics are not well suited to exposure. For example, the reverse side of the brocade shown on p. 25 has long weft fibers that snag easily, so it needs lining to protect it. Even fabrics that don’t snag have exposed interior seams to be finished. With a little planning, you can combine flat lining with Hong Kong binding (see “Hong Kong Seam Finish,” p. 24) to create a beautifully smooth interior. I call the technique a Hong Kong lining. In this method, each garment section is lined separately, and the lining is cut and wrapped around the section’s raw edges before assembly. There’s planning involved, as you can’t treat every seam allowance…

Most sewing enthusiasts own more fabric than they could sew up in several life-times—and are still frustrated with a closet full of “nothing to wear.” Making individual garments because you love a fabric or pattern can be fun, but when those pieces don’t coalesce into a versatile wardrobe, you may feel you’ve wasted your time. So how can you make smart decisions about which pieces to sew first, what garments to make from them, and how to style the new pieces into a cohesive wardrobe with your existing clothing? That’s exactly the challenge I tackled with recent retiree Jan McMinn, as we reviewed her fabric and pattern collection to prioritize her upcoming projects. Her life had recently been full of big changes, and she was ready to revamp her closet.…

Award-winning Sarah Campbell describes herself as a textile designer and inventor/painter of patterns. I’ve taken classes with her on fabric design and admired her decades of innovative work. Even if you don’t recognize her name, you’re likely to have seen her colorful, freely-painted patterns on decorator fabrics, bed linens, housewares, stationery, and quilting cottons. The story of her long career is just as rich and varied as her designs. SISTER ACT Sarah began her career alongside her sister, Susan Collier, starting in the 1960s. They produced many designs for Liberty London in the early 1970s. Based on their work for Liberty, the young women went on to develop countless print collections for some of the best-known design houses in Europe and the United States. The firm was innovative in their…

It’s no surprise that the multi-talented Louise Cutting has mostly resisted retirement. The trained artist, pattern designer, business owner, precision sewist, and educator has always had a full schedule. A longtime Threads magazine contributing editor, now contributing editor emerita, she also taught pattern drafting and garment construction at the college level, owned a fabric store for some 15 years, and instructed hundreds of sewing enthusiasts at sewing conferences and retreats. Her many techniques-based and how-to Threads videos, plus those she made on her own for YouTube, continue to educate sewists everywhere. ILLUSTRATED PATTERN LINE While Louise no longer travels or teaches in person due to her progressing Parkinson’s disease, she continues to sell her Cutting Line Designs patterns from her home studio and office in Winter Park, Florida. She designed…

Imagine the scene: Florence, Italy, 1519. Paintbrush in hand, Leonardo da Vinci steps back from the Mona Lisa, satisfied at last. Then someone enters his studio, looks at the woman with the inscrutable smile, and asks the inevitable: How long did that take? Sound familiar? As sewists, we may not aspire to museum-quality masterpieces, but no sooner do we put the final stitches into a dress, coat, pillow, or quilt than we hear the same question: How long did that take? The impulse to quantify effort is human nature, at least in our time-stamped world. But when you’re immersed in a deliberate creative act, tracking minutes, weeks, or months is hardly the point. Sometimes momentum finds us, flow takes over, and even complicated projects come together faster than we’d ever…

ALICIA WELCHER (“Embroidery Skills: Why an Embroidery Machine?” p. 76) says, “Living on a farm in in rural northwest Montana, I’ve found my personal style is shaped by chores and the weather—think layered jeans and tees. However, as a self-proclaimed slow-fashion junkie, most of my garments are classic, timeless styles made from natural fibers in vibrant tones anchored by black. I also adore vintage-style aprons and floppy straw hats.” Alicia has taught sewing for 20-plus years, with an emphasis on serging and machine embroidery. Find her at AliciaWelcher.com. MARY FUNT (“Don Loper Dresses Ella Fitzgerald,” p. 42) says “I tend to make classic styles using beautiful natural fiber fabrics. I’m not a 'frills and ruffles' person but do like to experiment with creative embellishments. I often purchase extra fabric to restyle the…

An exhibit honoring Ella Fitzgerald (1917–1996) at The Jazz Loft museum and performance space in Stony Brook, New York, features six gowns worn by the revered jazz artist, including several Don Loper designs. The finely constructed dresses are displayed with 200 Ella Fitzgerald items, including photos and album covers showing the First Lady of Song performing in the gowns. Though many fans may remember and admire Fitzgerald’s elegant dresses from her performances, few have seen the thoughtful designs and their meticulous construction up close. The dresses at The Jazz Loft were created by Loper (Lincoln George Hardloper, 1907–1972), a dancer, costume and set designer, and a choreographer turned fashion designer to the stars. Loper’s clientele included silver screen stars Jane Russell, Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Lana Turner, and Claudette Colbert,…

An embroidery machine opens up a world of creative possibilities. It enables you to personalize clothing, accessories, and home decor with intricate designs more quickly and easily than by hand. With an embroidery machine, you can easily replicate complex patterns, save time on large projects, and add a professional touch to your creations. It’s a valuable tool for hobbyists, craft enthusiasts, and even small business owners looking to offer customized products. If you’ve debated purchasing an embroidery machine but wondered whether it would be truly useful in your sewing practice, read on to discover just a few of its benefits. And know that, the more you work with your machine, the more ideas you’ll have about how to make the most of its potential. Alicia Welcher, a former editor of…

Don Loper, an American fashion designer to many stars in the mid-20th century, created this gown. It was rediscovered in a cache of items from the late jazz icon Ella Fitzgerald. The lined couture dress has a fitted lace bodice and gathered silk chiffon skirt. The bodice lace slightly overlaps and conceals a corded and angled waist seam, which holds the skirt’s extensive chiffon gathers. The center-back zipper is attached unobtrusively to the bodice and the skirt lining, without catching the delicate chiffon outer layer. Hand stitching is evident throughout the dress, such as at the skirt’s deep hem. Inside, a built-in corset includes an elastic underbust stay. To learn about other Loper designs for Fitzgerald, turn to p. 42.…

BONUS CONTENT Custom Prints: Take a look at our newest Threads print, an exclusive design inspired by the “fall bouquet” trend. The QR code on p. 20 takes you to an enhanced article with tips for making your own digital print. Fall for Fashion: Discover the autumn trends in color, fabrics, and styles, and scan the QR code on p. 51 for links to all the patterns listed in “Make Autumn Magical.” Jazz Legend’s Couture: Don Loper’s gowns for Ella Fitzgerald are part of fashion history. Learn how they were acquired by a New York music venue, and see more images. ONLINE CLASSES with Cynthia Guffey Learn to create stylish staple garments that you’ll reach for again and again. The late Cynthia Guffey, a well-known teacher and pattern designer, guides…

We've designed an exclusive print to celebrate our 40th year of bringing you page after page of sewing inspiration and how-tos. Spoonflower offers print-on-demand fabric, wall-paper, and home décor. While you are choosing the fabric type for the 40th anniversary print, be sure to check out our seasonal collections. They're designed by Threads digital content consultant Steven Fleck, a trained artist who interprets current trends in thoughtfully selected colors and patterns. MAKE A THREADS PRINT PART OF YOUR NEXT SEWING PROJECT: • Choose a print from our shop at Spoonflower.com • Select a fabric type from 20-plus options • Receive your fabric and sew! Visit Spoonflower.com and search for Threads_magazine to find our designs, or scan the QR code here to see our shop. Scan for Details BE SURE TO…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging technique Downloadable pattern Printed pattern Projectable pattern Blouse with Heirloom Details DESIGNER STITCH: RIAN BLOUSE 0125 (DesignerStitch.com) Skill level: This is not a difficult pattern. However, the number of design elements requires considerable time to execute. Size range and fitting: Sized 1 through 13, for busts 32 inches to 56 inches and waists 23 ½ inches to 47 ½ inches. Measurements are based on a 5-foot 6-inch-tall fit model. Separate side-front patterns are provided for cup sizes A through DD. Fabrics: Choose only lightweight cotton fabrics, such as lawn and batiste. These easy-to-press fabrics hold the pin tucks well. Buy extra fabric to practice on. Style and sewing details: This feminine blouse has a…