Table of contents for #226 - Summer 2024 in Threads Magazine

I have always loved the word “flourish”: As a verb, it means to grow and thrive; as a noun, it’s a bold gesture calling attention to something wonderful. It can also be a synonym for a well-executed, intricate embellishment. In all cases, it signifies growth, imagination, and the joy of succeeding in a creative endeavor. In this summer issue, we’ve brought together diverse examples of flourishes and flourishing. Contributing Editor Susan Khalje shares her journey to construct a stunning wedding ensemble based on a 1993 Galliano original, p. 36. Kenneth D. King, also a contributing editor, re-creates a fancy trim found on a 1930s wedding gown, p. 22. Ellen W. Miller, a couture embellishment expert, applies a centuries-old corded quilting technique to a summer tunic, for a delicate, dimensional ornament,…

MAKE DO AND MEND I’ve recently started “visible mending.” I had seen a Speedweve on Amazon.com and had to buy it. It came with absolutely no instructions. I was thrilled to read the article “On the Mend” by Rachael Gilbert-Burns in Threads #225. My husband has a merino wool shirt, and I saw it had a small hole today when it was washed. I have my first project already. —Diane P.S. Shipe, Berryville, Virginia SMOOTH HANDS, LIGHT WORK I have rough hands most of the time as a result of gardening, decorating, and general housework, despite my best efforts to use hand cream and gloves. As a result, when I am sewing I struggle to position interfacing prior to fusing, especially with lightweight materials. Then is not the time to…

This spring and summer, flowers made of all manner of textiles have appeared on a wide range of runways. Designers showed tiny buds scattered across a ballgown and massive blooms clustered on a bodice. Although there are many complicated ways and elaborate tools to make fabric flowers, you can create floral opulence with just a needle and thread, and a luscious fabric of your choice. One of the simplest methods for making lush floral ornament is with gathered bias strips as the base. There are endless variations within this basic technique, from fabric choice to stitch size and stitching path, and each produces a lovely hybrid. I recommend experimenting with a variety of materials and methods to see which flowers appeal to you for your project. Even your rejects will…

In the practice of garment creation, one element reigns supreme: the dart. Often overlooked but ever so crucial, darts play a pivotal role in transforming flat fabric into beautifully fitting garments that hug the curves just right. These small wedges in our patterns hold the key to achieving the perfect fit we all dream of. Join me as we explore the art of dart manipulation, demystifying the fitting process while unlocking a world of design possibilities. As my mantra goes, “It’s all about the dart.” Darts are little superheroes in the world of sewing. They’re those nifty triangular folds that give our garments shape and structure. But here’s the kicker: They’re not just static lines on a pattern. They’re versatile design details that can be moved and shifted to suit…

Corded quilting—also called boutis, or boutis provençal—is an old French quilting technique, originally from Provence and Marseille. The style was perfected in the 17th and 18th centuries, but it can still be relevant today. Original boutis (pronounced boo-TEE) pieces were stitched entirely by hand; my approach includes some machine stitching, but there’s still handwork involved. As with many handsewn textile arts, this one offers the opportunity to slow down, engage with your materials, and create something unique. In this technique, two layers of fabric are sewn together in decorative channels and patterns, which are then stuffed with yarn to create a textured, quilted cloth. Often, areas are left unstuffed to produce flat sections of contrast, so selected motifs stand out as though embossed. Traditionally, the top fabric is a piece…

Sewing clothing is all about turning two-dimensional fabric into three-dimensional garments. Last year, we challenged the members of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals to go one step further: We asked them to create an original piece of outerwear inspired by a two-dimensional work of art. The designers looked at paintings, drawings, prints, and photography, and came up with an impressive range of work. The finalist garments were judged by a team of experts at the ASDP’s annual conference in Denver, Colorado. Debby Spence, the 2022 Best Overall winner, along with guest judges Rae Cumbie and Clara Dittli, examined the entries in person. Threads Editor Carol J. Fresia joined them via teleconference. The entries were impressive and covered art from the late medieval period to modern art, including paintings…

Brittany Jones’s story is one filled with successes that attest to her remarkable drive and persistence. After all, going from brand-new sewer to co-owner of a fabric store in less than 10 years is no small feat. Melanated Fabrics, the online and brick-and-mortar store based in Atlanta, Georgia, closed recently. But it is where she honed her sewing knowledge. She continues to share her expertise as a teacher at the online school, Sew It Academy. “I honestly haven’t really paused to take my journey all in. It’s been truly amazing,” she says “I still remember buying my first machine because I was depressed, wanted a hobby, and only wanted to make a few maxi skirts.” At that point in 2013, she went on to “fall in love with sewing, and…

Threads Insider is a sewing education for less than $6 a month. Members have access to 260-plus tutorial videos, digital editions of the magazine, and an online article archive containing 38 years of expert sewing tips and techniques from the pages of Threads. Visit ThreadsMagazine.com/ Insider to learn all the benefits and begin a 14-day free trial. BONUS CONTENT • Improved T-shirts: Threads Insiders can get advice on fitting adjustments at the armhole, bust or shoulder, and upper back in the enhanced version of “T-shirts Forever,” by Pamela Leggett, p. 56. Plus, get Pamela’s insight on stay tapes, an essential notion for sewing knits. • Reviewed Pattern Extras: See illustrations for top and skirt versions of the Cashmerette Grafton Dress, reviewed on p. 31, and more design options for the…

Paul Roman, founder of Threads and its former parent company, The Taunton Press, died on January 5, 2024 at his home in Newtown, Connecticut. In 1975, Paul and his wife, Jan, cleaned out their savings account and spent it on a direct-mail marketing campaign. They were soliciting subscriptions to a magazine that didn’t exist. Industry norms said to expect a 3% to 4% response, at best. They got six times that, and had to enlist their five children, friends, and neighbors to help open envelopes and process orders. The magazine was Fine Woodworking. Paul was an amateur woodworker, frustrated by the lack of good information about the subject, so he sought out experienced woodworkers and persuaded them to write about their process. He also limited the advertising to products relevant…

Those who sew their own clothes do so for any number of reasons, but for most, it’s to express personal style. It’s also a means of exercising a creative urge that is artistic and technical. However, it’s often easier to envision the look you want than to achieve it. If you have reached the stage of yearning to create your own designs, The Ultimate Patterndrafting Series, by MJ Shannon (A Notch Above Media & Publishing, 2019–2021), is certainly a worthwhile investment. Shannon has produced a four-volume series that offers a comprehensive education in flat-pattern design. The books are specific to garment categories, and include skirts; blouses and shirts; pants and shorts; and dresses. A volume on jackets and coats is forthcoming by summer 2024, and one on evening and formalwear…

LOOK FOR THESE ICONS ON THE PATTERN REVIEWS Includes sizes 24 and up Fast and easy Challenging techniques Downloadable pattern Printed pattern Projectable pattern Shirt and Shorts Set BUTTERICK 6946 AND 6947 (Simplicity.com) SKILL LEVEL: These are quick garments to sew, although the sewing is moderate due to the collar and fly zipper. SIZE RANGE AND FITTING: Misses’ 4 to 20, for busts 29½ inches to 42 inches, waists 22 inches to 34 inches and hips 31½ inches to 44 inches. Also available as Butterick 6947, in women’s 20 to 38, for busts 42 inches to 60 inches, waists 35 inches to 54½ inches, hips 44 inches to 62 inches. FABRICS: Lightweight to mid-weight cotton and linen wovens for the shirt; denim and heavier linen for the shorts. STYLE AND…

While visiting a nursery one early spring day, fashion student Libby Muth began collecting the many colorful blossoms that had fallen to the plant center’s floor. Could I do something with these beautiful spent flowers, she wondered? The question eventually led her to experiment with flowers and plants to create natural dyes for fabrics. Her effort included harvesting from a natural dye garden at her school. You, too, can grow plants in your back yard or in a container garden to harvest and produce dyes for natural fabrics and garments. Whether you dabble in this practice or become a full-fledged devotee like Muth, you will need a few basic supplies plus some time and patience to watch the garden grow and then create the dyes. WHY CULTIVATE LIVING COLOR? Many…

There are those who love to make bound buttonholes, single- and double-welt pockets and other couture (and fiddly) details, and there are those who put the pattern back in the drawer when they see such things. Hopefully, the information that follows will keep those patterns on top of the pile from now on, especially when it comes to single-welt pockets. In my lifetime of sewing, I have made many welt packets and I find them to be doable. I have to be in the mood, though, and I have to set aside time to do things slowly and right from the beginning. One misstep and there is no correcting things in the middle of the process. Most classic welt pocket techniques are based on forming a welt inside an opening…

This appliquéd quilt was created by German immigrant Ernestine Zaumseil around 1875, in Pekin, Illinois. The quilt’s freeform design is bursting with botanical imagery, as would be expected from a piece that derives from the Indian tradition of the palampore, or “tree of life” motif. Ernestine’s work expands beyond the stylized tree-of-life bedcovers that were popular from the 17th through 19th centuries, however. Her version includes many plants that are readily identifiable. The central “tree” seems to have been traced directly from a grapevine, and includes realistic tendrils and small bunches of grapes. Naturalistic maple leaves appear at the upper right, and the branch descending from top left appears to be beech, heavy with beechnuts. A small orange tree rises from the bottom left, with miniature fruit. Various vines travel…

SUSAN KHALJE (“Reimagining a Look by Galliano,” p. 36) says, “I break projects into segments: bodice, skirt, sleeves. Rather than figuring out how many hours something might take, I think in terms of days, as in, ‘I’ll get the lace on the bodice today.’ “You do have to be realistic about how long things take—but I like the idea of assigning chunks of time and working within those parameters.” Susan, a Threads contributing editor, does all things couture: teaching, writing, creating videos, hosting an online club, and taking couture enthusiasts to Paris. SusanKhalje.com LALON ALEXANDER (“Exploring Design: Teamwork in Fashion,” p. 75) says, “I break it down into mini deadlines and put it into the calendar. I live by my calendar, so when I have a big deadline (of any…

Chiffon is a lightweight, sheer fabric with a soft hand. There are many variations in weave and fiber content, but all chiffons have the reputation of being tricky to sew. I’ll share my experience with handling this delicate, filmy textile so you can sew it with confidence. NATURAL OR SYNTHETIC Chiffon was originally only made from silk. This is still a popular choice for chiffon. The other common fiber for chiffon is polyester. It is much less expensive than silk. Other fibers for chiffon are less common, but nylon, rayon, and cotton are available, as well as blends with spandex for stretch. SMOOTH OR TEXTURED Standard chiffon is a plain, smooth weave. Crepe chiffon is made with twisted yarns, which give it more texture, and widthwise give. Crinkle chiffon has…

The wedding gown on the inside back cover embodies the glamour of 1930s fashion. Aside from shirring on the bodice, its only embellishment is a band of intricate braid encircling the upper arm at the dropped-shoulder seam. The self-fabric trim looks modern and Renaissance-romantic. DESIGN ANALYSIS When I saw the trim, I was determined to figure out how to make it. Surprisingly, it isn’t as complicated as it looks. It appears to have three sections: a center band made of parallel bias tubes, running perpendicular to the trim’s length, flanked by two narrower bands that look like three-strand braids. After studying the photo, I realized this was similar to crochet, and the three bands are actually one wide structure. GAUGE CALCULATIONS In crochet as well as knitting, you need to…

Some time ago, I stepped back from years of creating custom couture wedding gowns and eveningwear. Other things demanded more of my time—teaching, writing, videos, Paris, life … These days, my sewing is generally related to one of these other areas of work, plus the occasional piece for myself. When I was asked if I’d do a special couture wedding gown, I was intrigued. I know these sorts of garments take many hours to create. But, as it would be a challenge (which I welcome) and a deep dive into what I love the most (couture construction), I agreed to do it. And I have to say, when you get it right, there’s no more magical project, and nothing more satisfying than seeing the bride in the dress of her…

T-shirts, like jeans, have evolved from utilitarian garb to wardrobe staple. We wear them to clean, garden, go to the office, and even to enjoy a night out on the town. Depending on the fabric you choose, a T-shirt can take you from casual to elegant. If made with quality fabrics and good sewing techniques, T-shirts will last a long time, too. What we think of as a classic T-shirt was originally a piece of men’s underwear or gym gear: white or gray cotton jersey, crew neck, short sleeves, boxy shape. Over the past half-century or so, it has morphed into countless styles, from tight and cropped to drapey tunic looks. But you don’t need to follow any of the trends. For sewers, it’s almost faster to make your own…

When you create a garment or group of garments, are you trying to be the designer, source manager, project manager, patternmaker/draper, fitter, and stitcher? Face it, that’s a lot to manage. Try working in a team for your next project. In the fashion and costume industries, the image of the lone creative designer prevails. However, it is just a façade that media and brands like to portray. The truth is that good product is created in diverse teams of specialized artisans and technicians. It is not simply a matter of sharing the workload: Creativity greatly increases when you bring together different perspectives. An individual vision might be interesting at best, but a collaborative team can make that vision spectacular. We teach design students who go on to successful careers in…

Helen Tieken Geraghty, who wore this ensemble for her 1933 wedding in Chicago, was a highly educated woman who excelled in a career in theatrical production, studying at the University of Chicago, as well as at Oxford University and the Sorbonne in Paris. She was well-known for her involvement in local drama and arts programs in Chicago, and her ambitious historical pageants. Helen selected this gown from Jacques of Chicago, an exclusive boutique on Michigan Avenue that sold dresses inspired by Paris couture originals. Made of silk satin, the gown includes exquisite details characteristic of Jacques designs, such as the band of braided self-fabric trim on the sleeves. Learn to create this trim yourself, on p. 22.…