Table of contents for November 2017 in Getaway

I was 10 when I had my first defining bird experience. I’ll never forget it. I was sitting in the back of my parents’ beige Volkswagen Passat parked at the side of a beige dirt road in Mkhuze Game Reserve as hot air rolled in through the window. To the right of us was a large lanky black chicken, the object of my father’s rapt attention. It was stalking through scrub. Stalking schmalking, we children thought. Dad’s got distracted. We’re hungry! Then, kapow! Instead of the chicken, there stood a showgirl, lush jet-black feathers crowning her fierce head. She held her huge wings akimbo, an expression of pure fury on her face, and began to kick her legs like an Irish dancer on speed. Then it was done. A snake…

I was sitting with my Uncle John, telling him about my trip to England. Uncle John is 101 and has travelled the world. He has seen the sun rise over Pacific islands and watched the Northern Lights ripple and crack in the Arctic sky, and he likes remembering sights grand and small, and the smells and sounds of the places he has been, and the feel of the wind or the sun or the snow on his skin. He says he can close his eyes and it’s like being alive all over again. I tell him, ‘You’re alive now,’ because he is – he is alive and clear of mind and can still walk unaided – and he just smiles and nods with an air of, ‘You’ll see…’ I told…

From glorious getaways to cool gear, here are some of our latest winners One of two luxurious stays at Tintswalo Atlantic worth R22 060 I am so excited to have won this stunning prize. Five-star accommodation in one of the most amazing parts of South Africa – Cape Town. Thank you! – Aamina Bhyat Ballo eyewear worth up to R2 190 I’m absolutely thrilled to win a pair of eco-friendly sunglasses, and I look forward to trying them out on my next adventure. Thank you for this awesome prize. – Nicky Human Goal Zero Switch 10 Kit worth R2 400 It was a pleasant surprise to win this solar and USB charging kit. It’s a fantastic prize. I appreciate it and am excited to use it. – Mondli Dladla Polaroid Snap…

Curator/manager at the Radisson RED ‘I am pumped when I’m in the Silo District, because of the artistic vibe. It developed with the Zeitz MOCAA at its heart, an incredible building, but the Silo and Radisson hotels will also make a mark.’ (Not least because of the views of the city and Table Mountain from the rooftops of these buildings.) ‘It’s becoming a social hub and cultural district, an environment for people from all walks of life. Everyone who visits can learn, spend time and connect with one another. One of my favourite things about Cape Town is the creativity, energy and innovation. I love how there is so much to see and do – even a visit to the weekend food markets brings out the mix of cultures in…

Zola Nene, The Great SA Bake Off judge Every holiday I go on, I go to eat! Whether it’s a city or an island, I’m most interested in all the food I’ll be trying. I’m a mildly adventurous eater with a terrible gag reflex – a tricky combination, which can lead to awkward situations! One place I’ll go back to often is Zanzibar. I love it there. The fresh fruits and the ocean are the perfect recipe for relaxation. I went to Alsace in France specifically to meet and cook with Michelin-star chef Olivier Nasti and ‘queen of confitures’ Christine Ferber. Paris is everything and more that you read about and see on TV. I went with my childhood friend. We did all the touristy things and hit a few…

Alexandra and Bharath say… This double-helix staircase is located at the end of the Vatican Museum tour in Rome. Most visitors leave by this route, so we arrived early to benefit from great light and fewer humans. Famous structures such as this have been photographed countless times, so in addition to shooting as wide as possible to include the entire structure, we also tried to find an unusual element – in this case, one person to add perspective. ab-photography.us , @ab_photography_us Equipment Settings GoPro HERO3+ Black, ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/30 sec THEIR TIP Most city scenes are taken at street level, which becomes monotonous. Find a high position to photograph down from to give your image life and an intimate perspective. Great locations CAPE…

FINALIST Karoo Sky Winter in the Karoo usually means cold, clear and cloudless nights. The small town of Loxton is one of the prime stargazing destinations, with little to no light pollution. During the new moon of June, I went on a little solo camping trip to try and capture some images of the Milky Way. This particular shot was tricky. I set the camera’s timer and had 10 seconds to jump on the roof of the Landy. Then I had to stand completely still while shining the spotlight towards the stars above. – Bertus Hanekom, Loxton Canon 6D, Canon 17-40mm f/4L, ISO 5000, f/4, 20 sec FINALIST Smoking Rock These rocks are found at Jacobs Bay on the West Coast. The clouds above were moving from left…

WHAT WINE? Green wine. I know, it sounds like something you’d find on offer at an Irish pub on St Patrick’s Day. But it isn’t. We’re talking about wine produced on farms that care as much about the planet as they do about profit: places where ducks feast on snails and vine roots are nourished with cow dung; where chameleons go about their lives without fear of being gassed or landing up in a fermentation tank; where wine gets drunk on nature and winemakers pedal their wares alongside the cycle of life. And if the movement has proved anything in the past decade, it’s that the wines produced in such a way are not just competitive but, in many cases, unequalled. Here’s where to start a green affair. WHAT LABEL?…

Day 1: Joburg to Philippolis Distance 600km Allow 6½ hours Take the N1 to Bloemfontein and then the R706 to Jagersfontein. Pass the R704 turn-off to Trompsburg and the R704 turn-off to Jagersfontein (it can be a little confusing because the road changes from the R706 to R704, despite the fact that you don’t turn at all). Just after the turn-off to Jagersfontein, the road becomes gravel. Continue straight for about 10km, then left at the T-Junction. It’s about 50km on gravel and then a short stretch on the tarred R717 to Oom Japie se Huis on the main road in Philippolis (1) and about 2km on gravel from there to Die Groenhuis (2) . Day 2: Philippolis to Beaufort West Distance 500km Allow 9 hours Take the R717 to…

1. THE HARD-CORE COOLER BOX WILD COOLER R4 495, wildcoolers .com With 50mm-thick insulation walls and lid, the 20L Wild Cooler is designed to live outdoors. It’s on the heavy side at 9,5kg, but for good reason. The thick walls keep ice frozen for a whole weekend without electricity, and the inner lid is fitted with a silicone gasket that ensures an airtight fit to keep the contents cold. There is a leak-proof plug for easy drainage once ice has melted (obviously, this could take a while). I also love the handy bottle opener built into the lid and the cooler’s non-slip feet, which help it stay in place when travelling. Wild Coolers are also available in 40, 60 and 80L capacities. These bigger models…

The simple answer: wine that’s delicious and good for the planet. Here’s how farmers are working with nature to make top wines and healthy environments  South Africans mirror broader trends taking place abroad: recycling, using solar power, eating organic fruit and vegetables, choosing free-range and antibiotic/ hormone-free meat and eggs whenever possible. The latest initiative, water saving, has been prompted by drought in Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape. Plastic water catchment and storage units attached to gutter downpipes are the latest accessory for eco-conscious homeowners. When it comes to the fermented fruit of the grape, it’s no different. There are ‘greener’ options. ‘Environmental and social responsibility complements a quality product beautifully’ – JOHAN REYNEKE, REYNEKE WINES The process of winemaking is simple: crush the grape, extract the juice,…

Getaway’s annual Green Wine Awards is an attempt to flag or highlight wines and producers worthy of special mention, either because the grapes have been grown organically or because the producers have followed the tenets of the Integrated Production of Wine (IPW). The competition is separated into these two categories. This year the organic category attracted more entries (54) than IPW (50) for the first time in the history of the competition (including a number of wines that were submitted in both categories, listed in our results section under organic to avoid duplication). Wines were divided according to variety or style, then tasted blind over two days – the first for organic, the second for IPW – and scored using the 20-point/ 5-star system. The results were audited…

OVERALL WINNER & BEST WHITE Paul Cluver Close Encounter Riesling 2016 BEST RED Paul Cluver Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2015 BLOGGERS’ OVERALL WINNER Bartinney Chardonnay 2016 BEST VALUE WINNER Slanghoek Private Selection Camerca 2015 IPW results / Reds Paul Cluver Seven Flags Pinot Noir 2015 R569 The nose and palate show bright strawberry and cherry fruit with hints of smoke. Restrained but powerful with notable backbone and length. Balanced, elegant and subtle with lovely refinement. Slanghoek Private Selection Camerca 2015 R41 Tobacco leaf and fruitcake aromas can be found on this 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blend. Lovely bramble and cedar appeal to the palate. Soft textured with good structure and well-integrated oak. Gabriëlskloof The Blend 2015 R95 Blackberry, blueberry and spice abound on the nose and palate of this…

BARTINNEY PRIVATE CELLAR Helshoogte Pass, Stellenbosch Tastings: Monday to Thursday 10am – 4pm, Friday 12pm – 8pm, Saturday 10am – 3pm. 021-885-1013, bartinney.co.za CAVALLI WINE & STUD FARM Strand Road (R44), Somerset West Tastings: daily in summer 10am – 6pm, closed Monday and Tuesday in winter. 021-855-3218, cavalliestate.com CEDERBERG PRIVATE CELLAR Dwarsrivier, Citrusdal Tastings: Monday to Saturday 9am – 12pm and 2pm – 4pm, public holidays 9am – 12.30am and 4pm – 5.30pm. 027-482-2827, cederbergwine.com EARTHBOUND Vineyards in Darling, production at Nederburg Wines in Paarl. Not open to the public. 021-809-7000, earthboundwines.co.za GABRIËLSKLOOF N2, just outside Bot River Tastings: Sunday to Friday 9am – 5pm, Saturday 10am – 3pm. 028-284-9865, gabrielskloof.co.za HUGHES FAMILY WINES Vineyards near Malmesbury. Not open to the public. 021-790-4824, nativo.co.za JOOSTENBERG WINES R304, Muldersvlei/Klapmuts, Stellenbosch Tastings:…

THE ULTIMATE GAME OF TAG: SPREADING GREEN WINE There’s something we’ve noticed: since farmers began making eco-friendly wine, their districts are becoming wilder, prettier and lovely to be in. And the good practices are spreading. PLUS find out who this year’s Green Wine Award winners are (page 127). 12 OFF-THE-GRID CAMPSITES We know you love camping. We know you love being in nature. So we chose these spots that we’re certain you’ll love chilling in. We certainly did. Turn to page 72. ZANZIBAR What’s not to love about this island that’s gorgeous, friendly and just a four-hour hop away? Having to think about its sustainability. So we’ve come up with four eco lodges that do the thinking for us (page 90). THE GOOD-VALUE STAR Each issue of Getaway has several…

Northern Cape beauty I love reading Getaway as it gives flight to my dreams to travel locally. I normally plan my holidays with assistance from your magazine, and my family and I usually holiday on the coast. This year, we wanted to go to Augrabies Falls, visit Riemvasmaak hot springs, Die Pienk Padstal and go rafting on the Orange River. We set off in my husband’s hatchback with our two sons on a Thursday morning. We left at 4am on the dot as we’re always late when going on holiday. We went to all of the above except the hot springs because of time constraints and the car wasn’t up to standard for the gravel road there. That evening we had a braai under the magnificent night sky and enjoyed…

If you like wine… • Dress up for the Stanford Stumble on 25 November, a 5km fun run with wine stations to stop at en route. R100 pp entry goes to charity. stanfordstumble.co.za (Don’t confuse it with the Sani Stagger on the same day – that’s 42,2km up and down the Sani Pass in the Drakensberg! And there’s no wine.) • Jakkalsvlei wine estate, near Mossel Bay, has six new routes (from 6km to 60km) for its MTB and trail run events on 4 November. It’s a family day out with wine, pizza and Jackal Lager. Late entries, from R50 pp, accepted on the day. jakkalsvlei.co.za If you like to play… • On 28 October, enter the Haunted Forest at Riversands Farm in Midrand for a Halloween trick-or-treat walk. Expect…

Radisson RED V&A WATERFRONT, CAPE TOWN I love technology and prefer getting things done on my phone instead of waiting in queues, which is why the Radisson RED is up my alley. This hotel brand is inspired by millennials like me. There’s free, unlimited high-speed Wi-Fi and with the hotel app, I could self check-in and place my orders at the OUIBar + KTCHN. There’s also a ‘selfie wall’ in the restaurant with fitted cameras and attractive backgrounds – take a fun pic while you wait for your meal and it will be printed instantly. The hotel’s neighbour may be a modern art museum with a designer hotel upstairs, but the Radisson RED fits right in to the city’s new Silo District. Bold red, white and black decor makes a…

It’s deeply ironic that in a world of ever-smarter navigation technology, the most useful travel companion I’ve come across is the latest printed Traveller’s Atlas Southern Africa from Tracks4Africa. It’s a 142-page nugget essential for anyone travelling in South Africa and its neighbouring countries (Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia and Angola). Most of the pages are at a scale of 1:500 000, large enough to give users a microscopic view of almost every route, from major highways to minor gravel roads and proper off-road routes. Its most useful feature is the distances and travel times indicated for most roads more than 10 kilometres long. It’s been invaluable in my Getaway trip planning, where the relationship between distance and time on off-road routes is far from constant. The…

PANGOLIN PHOTO SAFARIS The grand prize for the 2017 Getaway Gallery competition is a photo safari in Botswana for two worth R100 000. The winner and their partner will spend five days aboard the Pangolin Voyager houseboat on the Chobe River (all meals and drinks included), photographing the magical wildlife of the Okavango Delta under the tutelage of top wildlife photographers Grant and Helena Atkinson. pangolinphoto.com THE 2018 GETAWAY GALLERY You can still submit your images! All entries from now on are automatically entered into the 2018 Getaway Gallery Competition. Email your images (about 1MB in size, maximum five per month) with your name and contact details to gallery@getaway.co.za.  Include a title, some information on how and where you took it, and details…

1 Oom Japie se Huis, Philippolis. A bar, bookshop and restaurant all rolled into one, this classic Karoo abode (note the curved corrugated roof) does a cracking Karoo lamb curry. From R95. Bookings essential. 051-773-7072 2 Die Groenhuis Guest House, Philippolis. One of three restored Karoo townhouses on a quiet gravel road just out of town. You’ll get a good sunrise from the back stoep and an even better sunset from the front. Self-catering from R300 pp. 083-290-4269 3 Highlands Windy Ridge Eureka Private Nature Reserve. This tract of land straddles the gravel road just west of Compassberg peak. It’s gated on either end but thoroughfare is permitted (just press the button at the gate) and you’ll spot eland, springbok, zebra and maybe even jackal along the way. 4 Die…

Rain is the signal to start moving. ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER Photojournalist and expedition guide Dale Morris has spent most of his life travelling the world in search of wildlife encounters and stories. He has produced more than 500 magazine features, worked on numerous wildlife documentaries and managed several conservation projects, ranging from sea turtle monitoring to chimpanzee rehabilitation. dalermorris.com Safety in numbers is a sensible, but not foolproof, approach. HOW HE GOT THE SHOTS It’s hard not to see wildlife in abundance on the Serengeti plains, but it’s difficult to find unique and interesting angles. My advice is to look for pleasing patterns and compositions within the herd, otherwise your photos can end up a jumbled mess of horns, legs, ears and heads. I spent several weeks in Tanzania…

100 That’s how many different methods survival expert Hunt Cheney knows for starting a fire. And then there are the myriad techniques for finding water, food and surviving in the wild. In the December issue of Getaway , we head to a beautiful kloof just outside McGregor for a survival-lite weekend that the whole family can enjoy: beautiful caves become cosy shelters, having a braai turns into a fun experiment in how to make fire without matches, and a gorgeous mountain pool like this one turns into a place where you can relax, and reap the rewards of being a new graduate in the school of the wild.…

OVERALL WINNER & BEST RED Waverley Hills Grenache 2016 BEST WHITE Laibach The Ladybird (Woolworths) Sauvignon Blanc 2017 BLOGGERS’ OVERALL WINNER Waverley Hills VSC Viognier Semillon Chardonnay 2015 BEST VALUE WINNER Stellar Winery Organic Shiraz 2017 Waverley Hills OVERALL ORGANIC WINNER BEST ORGANIC RED BLOGGERS’ OVERALL ORGANIC Waverley Hills emerged as a triple winner this year. The Grenache 2016 offers up bright black cherry succulence with a light fynbos overlay. Neither overwhelming nor too powerful, the wine’s muscularity assumes the form of a lean long-distance athlete rather than that of a bulky rugby prop forward. One judge’s tasting note simply read: ‘Juicy and delicious!’ Established in 2000, the 80-hectare farm can be found at the base of the Witzenberg mountains near Wolseley, between Tulbagh and Ceres, and has been owned…

Fifi’s Fresh Fish at Hibberdene. You haven’t experienced the South Coast until you have their fish. – Mfundiso Miya The whales in Hermanus! – Martin Etsebeth The breezy traffic in Port Elizabeth. – Nicolette Els The peace of Prince Albert. – Ailsa Tudhope Rhodes in the Eastern Cape – so remote it doesn’t even have a grocery store! A winner if you want to get out of the city buzz. – Carrin Jean Glossop The spirit of the people of Knysna after the fires. – Rosanne Turner…

When you take a road trip in a car, it doesn’t matter very much where you put things; luggage, padkos, your ouma, everything reacts in a more or less uniform way to bumps and bends in the road. Sure, your back-seat passengers might get a little more lift over a speed hump than those in the front (a friend of mine has two magnificently noggin-shaped dents in his roof as proof), but on a motorcycle everything is exaggerated, especially when you’re riding off-road. What that means is that where you put things is very important. I know this. Most adventure motorcyclists know this. But when you’re trying to take photos under a searing Karoo sun, logic has a tendency to evaporate out the top of your head like steam from…

THE VEG Some vegetables love a bit of char and scorching them enhances their very essence. Asparagus takes on nutty flavours, cauliflower becomes a far sexier proposition than when boiled, and serious heat is the only way kale will surrender. Here’s the bonus: veggies that benefit from braaiing usually don’t mind a stint out the fridge or on the road. Drew’s charred asparagus These would be perfect offered round as a snack before braaied lamb chops (see the September 2017 issue). Eat immediately, straight off the grill – otherwise they go floppy – so have that mayo ready! Line up the asparagus spears side by side, so that they form one solid section. Carefully push a skewer through all the spears near the bottom, and repeat with…

It’s dark out here in the jungled heart of Borneo, where a million leaves block almost all moonlight from reaching the forest floor. Great ironwoods and strangler figs stand guard around us, their branches gently stirring the noises of the tropical night. ‘When people tell stories it is up to you to decide if you will believe them.’ Bayang anak Penguang gazes into the night. ‘But this, what I will tell you now, is not a story. It is the truth – and I know this because my family has seen it with their own eyes.’ Bayang pauses to puff life into a smouldering cigarette and smoke trickles beyond the boundary of torchlight. ‘There once was a man called Aki Embah; he lived near here,’ our stocky wilderness guide continues.…

TIP Not only are the wines memorable but the spaces are worth travelling for!…

Beyond the Stellenbosch winelands, Paarl, the Breede River Valley, the Swartland and eventually the Cederberg beckon with scenic splendour and a slower pace. The distances are greater, so it takes more time to explore these places, but it’s worth it. Cederberg Wines protects 5 200 hectares of pristine nature and works hard at preserving it. Burgherspost and Cloof in Darling share a nature reserve, and Cloof hosts the only eco-friendly music fest in Africa (Rocking the Daisies in October), while Vondeling has a long-running project listing and protecting the rare fynbos species on its land. THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO THEIR AREA FIND THE BEST VIEWS Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve offers splendid views of the countryside and is easily accessible. ‘A great spot for picnics – and for walks and rock climbing,’…