You are at White Rabbit in Moscow and a parade of dishes – including an exquisite plate of foie gras served alongside chestnut and honey - from your tasting menu has just arrived.
As you are pondering if the foie is French, the restaurant’s head chef, Vladimir Mukhin, comes by and says with a smile, “We have learnt how to make great foie gras in Russia.”
Scoff if you will, but the locavore movement is taking Russia by storm. Thanks to the government’s 2014 ban on agricultural products from the EU, U.S.A., Australia, Canada and Norway, chefs are now looking inwards for inspiration. While imported truffle, foie gras, French cheese and ibérico ham were once the flavours of the day, the embargo has prompted chefs to comb their terroir, rivers…