Table of contents for November 2018 in delicious

WHAT MAKES A GREAT PARTY? As a party-thrower, party-goer and party-lover of epic proportions, it starts with an intriguing, entertaining and unexpected guest list (and please don’t tell me you’re having an early night), before segueing to Champagne and my everything-old-is-new favourite, the punch bowl. It also means mastering the art of a great grazing platter (in the age of Instagram, known as an ‘uber’ platter), which you’ll find on page 78 courtesy of our very own Phoebe Wood and Kirsten Jenkins. There’s more to the platter than meets the eye these days, and while there are plenty of hacks and cheats for the time-poor, there is also a return to building the elements from scratch with clever use-it-up techniques, be it chutneys, cheeses, breads, spiced nuts or terrines. As…

I arrived in Melbourne on June 1st – first day of winter. So there I was, freezing and missing a very warm England. I had no cookbooks, no pots, no pans, no mixer, no glasses for my gin, and no idea what I was going to cook. I also gave up a 10-year subscription to a very popular UK-based food magazine. What was I going to cook? More importantly, what was I going to eat? My recipe collection now consists of three issues of delicious. magazine, and it’s safe to say I have smashed it. Thank you for saving this foodie from eating takeaway every night. What a fantastic publication – my subscription order is on its way. Safe to say this is my new bible. Paul Dunn ED’S NOTE:…

“Foraging all morning with this legend @peterhardwick for our @deliciousaus reader dinner @harvestnewrybar” @kerrie_mccallum “Just eating. Again. @_halcyonhouse” @_sbristow_ “Any excuse to sport a pair of espadrilles, right? Checking out @_halcyonhouse for@deliciousaus. I know, hard job but someone has to do it.” @johnnyhannan “Last night was a very proud moment for us at the @newscorpaus News Awards…“ @kerrie_mccallum “I think we are super lucky to have a person like Rick Stein in our food world! Another great opportunity to work with him today at the new @bannistershotels Port Stephens.” @kirstenljenkins @deliciousAUS…

• MANGO is popular worldwide, and has its roots in the tropical climate of India. Perfect on their own or added to either desserts or savoury dishes, mangos add a pop of sweetness and bold colour to salads, salsas, cakes and chutneys. Aussie mangos are in abundance, and best enjoyed, from November through the summer months. • SWEET CORN is grown throughout most of Australia, with the crop thriving in the warm, sunny weather of spring and summer. Whether barbecued, souped-up or made into fritters, sweet corn is the ideal warm-weather ingredient. Store in the fridge to keep cobs sweet and juicy. • PRAWNS are abundant in Australia, with 15 large fisheries harvesting four main species around our coastline. Nothing says summer like a big bowl of fresh prawns, but this popular crustacean…

INSECTS – WOULD YOU EAT THEM? If your first response was “Ewww, yuk”, I’m guessing you’re not part of the 80 per cent of humans who regularly consume bugs. A cultural fear of creepy crawlies has kept them on the periphery of the Western diet, but a trend towards entomophagy, or insect eating, is creeping out of Africa, Asia and Central and South America. In Thailand, they snack on grasshoppers; in Africa, the residents around Lake Victoria eat mosquito burgers during the rainy season when the insects swarm in the billions. The Amazon’s Piaroa tribe barbecue huge bird-eating tarantulas. Here, bogong moths have long been an important source of bush tucker. The case for eating insects goes beyond gaining a brief moment of Instagram glory. The United Nations reports eating…

I RECENTLY DISCOVERED something about a friend that made me wonder how we ever became friends in the first place. Turns out she hates sharing food. She prefers her own pile on a plate because, otherwise, she never gets her share. Now, I could suggest she gets new friends, but that may jeopardise our friendship. To break bread together is at the core of many cultures. It’s why I’m surprised that at new venture Lesa, the team behind The Town Mouse (RIP) and Embla, restaurants all about shared plates, are offering an à la carte menu where guests get their own dish. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. The only problem, though, is that chef and co-owner Dave Verheul’s dishes demand to be shared – which is what we…

With Scenic Culinaire, take on-board classes taught by culinary experts, using local ingredients bought fresh from markets with Scenic’s chef. France has long held a special place in the hearts of romantics. Its name alone conjures thoughts of passionate affairs and glamorous adventures. For foodies in particular, the country is held in the highest esteem; its culinary traditions are imitated the world over, while the words ‘French wine’ are shorthand for unrivalled quality. Passion, romance and gastronomic delights combine in Bordeaux, France’s most celebrated red-wine region, and a destination on every food lover’s bucket list. There is no better way to experience the region than on an 11-day Scenic luxury river cruise. Extraordinary landscapes unfold as you enjoy gourmet fare, winemaking refined to an art, and a wealth of historical…

Tequila, tacos, mezcal, margaritas. All things that spring to mind when you think of Mexican exports. Wine? Not so much. And when you think of Baja California, surf breaks and fish tacos certainly dominate the imagination over images of wine connoisseurs swirling and spitting sauvignon blanc, grenache and tempranillo. But for those in the know, the wine-making renaissance this Central American country is experiencing comes as no surprise. As a consequence, regions such as Valle de Guadalupe – a dry, rocky valley located in Baja’s remote backcountry, two hour’s drive south of San Diego – are having their day in the sun. While the revival comes courtesy of the New World zeal of modern-day producers, wine-making in Mexico dates back to the 16th century. In fact, Mexico was the birthplace…

“I THINK ONLY A FEW PLACES ON THE COAST HAVE A CULINARY AGENDA LIKE US.” As a teenager, George Kailis would ride Perth’s winter swell with one eye firmly locked on the fusty cafe anchored to Trigg Point. He’d dream of what it could be, of the possibility it offered as a beachside venue, boasting inimitable views over the Indian Ocean and along the sand to nearby Scarborough. Today, not only is the property his, but Kailis himself is making waves as a restaurateur helping to advance what Perth dining is all about. Island Market opened at Trigg Point in September 2017 – all airy and light, with white and pink interiors and a breezy, beachy vibe. Best of all, the menu is directed by David Coomer (Star Anise, Fuyu,…

SEAFOOD FLAVOURS Seared king prawns with fresh lime pickle, p 21 Voyager Estate Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2017 Ensenada fish tacos with chilli and coriander, p 74 Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc 2017 Oysters with pink grapefruit granita and pickled eschalot, p 86 Voyager Estate Project Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2018 “Margaret River boasts a maritime climate, with warm, dry days producing fruit intensity in our grapes and cooling sea breezes maintaining freshness. Thus our wines are perfect with seafood. Concentrated aromatics balance the intense flavours in the dishes, while acid and sometimes saline elements in the food highlight the wines’ fruitiness.” Santiago Fernandez, Head Chef, Voyager Estate Margaret River FAST AND FIERY Sweet corn soup, p 98 Ngeringa Uncultured Pet Nat 2017 (Adelaide Hills, SA, $29) Turmeric chicken thighs, p 108 Lucy…

THE ORIGINAL BANNISTERS has been wowing visitors to Mollymook on the NSW south coast for almost 10 years. Now, Rick and Sarah Stein are heading north and opening a second signature restaurant overlooking the pristine blue waters of Port Stephens Bay – and you’re invited to be among the first lucky guests to enjoy dinner at the new venue. Set on Soldiers Point peninsula within the peaceful seclusion of a 98,000-hectare marine park, there can be few finer spots to enjoy Rick’s classic cooking. On the day, you’ll enjoy a wonderful four-course menu by Rick and head chef Mitchell Turner, designed to showcase the region’s best seafood, with matching Brokenwood Wines. “We can’t wait to see you enjoying platters of local oysters and prawns on the deck,” say Rick and…

“NOTHING BEATS A GOOD CHAR MATCHED WITH A VIBRANT SALSA.” TANDOORI CHICKEN WITH MANGO SALSA SERVES 4 You will need 8 metal skewers for this recipe 1 tsp chickpea flour (besan) 1 tsp each ground coriander, ground cumin and garam masala 3 tsp ground turmeric 1/2 tsp ground cardamom 1/2 tsp fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi – from Indian grocers, optional) Juice of 2 lemons 150g Greek yoghurt, plus extra to serve 5cm piece (25g) ginger, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, crushed 1kg chicken thigh fillets, trimmed 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil Mango chutney, to serve ORANGE THYME DRESSING Juice of 2 oranges 1 tsp caster sugar Juice of 1 lemon 1/4 bunch thyme, leaves picked 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil MANGO SALSA 1 mango, peeled, thinly sliced…

THEY SAY BEAUTY is only skin deep, but when you’re talking coral trout, it goes far deeper than most. With bright, bursting red/ orange skin artfully dotted with pale-blue spots and a delicate blue eyeliner around its big, black eye, it’s one of the most beautiful species in Australian tropical waters. But as all good chefs know, coral trout’s real beauty lies beneath the surface, where wonderfully wobbly, gelatinous, sweet, delicate flesh resides. It’s so good, it’s considered by many to be at the luxury end of a deep-blue diet, where lobsters, caviar and oysters are found. “Coral trout is, without doubt, one of my all-time-favourite special-occasion fish!” exclaims fish-o-phile John Susman, of Fishtales seafood consultancy. This bottom-dwelling beauty fossicks around inshore and coastal reefs and islands in Australia’s tropical…

C: You do a great charcuterie board. A: I’m very proud of it. C: It’s like my colcannon. A: Oh, here we go with the colcannon! Good news is, the quality of cured meats in this country has improved massively. Really, these days you can get everything you need for a great charcuterie board from your local butcher or even the supermarket: cured meats, cheeses, terrines, parfait, rillettes. C: You just want a selection of textures. What’s that Aussie cured meat I like? A: Kurobuta. C: That’s it – costs a bit, but it’s amazing. But you don’t need to spend a fortune. I buy the best cheeses for my restaurants, but sometimes I just want that cheap cheese from my childhood. A: Yeah. We’ve all matured with our tastes…

All-inclusive river cruise inclusions: • 5-star Scenic Space-Ship featuring Scenic Sun Lounges• 1 Exclusive Scenic Enrich experience• Scenic Culinaire cooking experience• Your choice of 21 Scenic Freechoice activities• 1 Scenic Sundowners event• Five on board dining options for 29 meals, including 10 breakfasts, 9 lunches and 10 dinners• Complimentary beverages – all day, every day• Butler service• Scenic Tailormade• The freedom of e-bikes• Cruise director to assist and guide• Expert local guides• Complimentary Wi-Fi• All tipping and gratuities…

VEGETARIAN SPRING ROLLS AND PAPAYA SALAD SERVES 4 You will need a kitchen thermometer for this recipe. 2 tbs ABC Sweet Soy Sauce Kecap Manis 2 tbs fish sauce Juice of 2 limes 1 small red chilli, thinly sliced 50g cooked and cooled vermicelli noodles Sunflower oil, to deep fry FOR SALAD 1 (400g) green papaya, skin removed, shredded 1 carrot, shredded 100g snow peas, shredded 1 punnet cherry tomatoes, halved ½ cup mint leaves SPRING ROLLS 2 tbs sunflower oil 2 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tbs finely grated ginger 2 cups (100g) finely shredded wombok (Chinese cabbage) 100g finely shredded shiitake mushrooms 2 tbs ABC Sweet Soy Sauce Kecap Manis 1 cup (50g) cooked and cooled vermicelli noodles, cut…

“WELCOME TO HANOI’S BUN CHA – LITTLE BURGERS WRAPPED IN LETTUCE WITH RICE NOODLES.” BUN CHA SERVES 4 500g pork mince 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 lemongrass stalks (white part only), finely chopped 3 tsp fish sauce 1 egg, lightly whisked 1 bunch coriander, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped 3 spring onions (white and dark-green parts only), thinly sliced into ‘coins’ 1 tbs peanut or vegetable oil 200g rice vermicelli noodles 1 iceberg lettuce, leaves separated 1 bunch mint (use Vietnamese mint if you can get it), leaves picked 100g bean shoots Nuoc cham (see Vietnamese crispy pancake recipe, p 107), to serve Preheat oven to 140°C (120°C fan-forced). Combine the pork, garlic, lemongrass, fish sauce, egg and 1 tbs of the coriander stalks in a bowl. Finally, add the…

• Encuentro Guadalupe defines barefoot luxury. The newly opened hotel is a series of modernist wood, steel and glass pods that tumble down the side of a rocky hill. At the peak, there’s an outdoor bar and swimming pool with contours melting into the terrain. Earthy colours and textures immerse you in this sensual location, and, if you can tear yourself away from your private cabin, it’s a central location to explore the valley. grupoencuentro.com.mx • Casa Ocho is the stand-out residence at Bruma, the designer digs for the wild at heart situated on the same property as Fauna restaurant. The eight rooms (of which casa ocho , ‘house eight’, is the ultimate) feature contemporary Mexican design and splinter off a central living room, kitchen and swimming pool. Deliciously secluded and effortlessly…

EMERALD ESCAPE Opening this month, Anantara Quy Nhon Villas is a sheltered resort in south central Vietnam. With 26 ocean-facing villas, spiffy contextual design and an inviting spa (fancy a coconut milk soak?), it’s a destination property easily reached from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. anantara.com CREATIVE DUO Olsen Ormandy: A Creative Force unfolds at Newcastle Art Gallery this month. The dual show is a celebration of artists Louise Olsen and Stephen Ormandy (aka Dinosaur Designs). It examines three decades of their vivid output, from delicate watercolours to metal sculptures. SMALL WONDERS These wireless buds by Bose deliver soothing sounds that mask unwanted noise, like a snoring seatmate, and lull you to sleep. bose.com.au BRISSIE BEAUTY Continuing the city’s tourism renaissance, the recently opened W Brisbane rewards guests staying…

• MONSTERELLA “Some of the best pizza I’ve ever eaten.” monsterella.com.au • BREAD IN COMMON “My Fremantle go-to: fantastic dining room serving share plates. Have the lamb ribs and BOC bread!” breadincommon.com.au • LONG CHIM “For roast duck and egg noodle soup. And drinks by cocktail maestro James Connolly.” longchimperth.com • VARNISH ON KING “My friend Andy Freeman’s subterranean whiskey bar on King Street in Perth’s CBD; great for beer and whiskey.” varnishonking.com • LULU LA DELIZIA “Joel Valvasori makes the best pasta in the country – smoked eel with a bottle of barolo for me.” lululadelizia.com.au • TINY’S BAR “The roast chicken is a must. There’s also a very cool wine store adjoining the main bar. A CBD Friday long-lunch staple.” tinysbar.com.au • THE STANDARD “Northbridge go-to bar by John Parker with exceptional food and snacks…

love at first bite The ultimate bite-sized treat, Nanna’s Indulgent Collection Mini Bites are perfect for sharing with guests or someone special… or just keep them all to yourself! Choose from three delicious varieties, including Strawberry Crème, Caramel Crème and Chocolate Crème. Visit: pattiesfoods.com.au crunch time Masterfoods Schnitzel Mix is now available in four new flavours, including garlic and herb, lemon pepper, smoked paprika, and onion and garlic. Use to crumb chicken, or mix with vegetables for extra crunch. Visit: masterfoods.com.au top-notch noodle Authentic and organic, Hakubaku ramen noodles are a best seller for a reason. The thin, Japanese-style noodles have a slightly chewy texture, and are perfect for hot pots, soups and stir-fries. Visit: hakubaku.com.au for the grill of it The barbecue will take centre stage this summer, thanks…

1626 likes, 22 comments If you’ve always thought the best part of a potato was the flesh, think again. As @monty_koludrovic proves, when it comes to our favourite carb it’s all about the skin. Don’t believe us? Just take a look at this recipe for potato skins, avocado and smoked salmon pearls from our September issue. Enough said. INSPIRED COOKING: I won a copy of the August 2018 edition of delicious. and, boy, were my eyes opened! What wonderful recipes, and most fairly easy to follow. I am over 70 and live alone so don’t usually do ‘fancy’ cooking, but I am about to try some of Shannon Bennett’s Mambo Italiano (p 84). Thank you for encouraging me to be more adventurous with my cooking. Elizabeth Hoffmann TEEN PICK: After…

DELICIOUS. READER EVENT @ QUAY “THE BARRAMUNDI WE USED TONIGHT IS CAUGHT WILD IN THE NT, BUT WE HAVE TO CATCH IT BEFORE THE CROCS!” – PETER GILMORE DELICIOUS. READER EVENT @ HARVEST “LOVED OUR CHEF & BUTCHER EVENT AT HARVEST, MY FAVOURITE PLACE IN BYRON BAY.” – ANTHONY PUHARICH DELICIOUS. @ HAMILTON ISLAND “To see Firedoor transported from Surry Hills to the shores of qualia’s Pebble Beach for the launch of Hamilton Island Race Week was an epic treat. Guests gathered around the fire pit watching Lennox Hastie in action; for starters he used the 300 kilos of crab he caught with delicious. Produce Awards gold medallist Matt Vickers earlier in the day.” – KERRIE McCALLUM…

SUPERMARKETS CLAIM that we are fixated on fruit’s appearance, not accepting skin blemishes even if the quality is unaffected. I’ve been guilty of it in the past – we want “the best”. But as a result, more than 100,000 tonnes of Queensland bananas go to waste every year. This recipe for banana pain perdu (French toast) helps reduce waste. The riper and blacker the bananas, the better the result, and you can use up a bit of old bread while you’re at it! Whiz 2 peeled bananas in a blender until smooth. Whisk 100g banana puree (save remaining to add to smoothies), 3 eggs, 2 tbs caster sugar and 100ml pure (thin) cream in a shallow dish until well combined. Add 6 slices stale brioche or other bread to banana…

MIKEY NICOLIAN, CONTINENTAL DELI, SYDNEY: REGAL ROGUE BIANCO VERMOUTH, $40 White vermouth provides a good baseline for spritz drinks, enlivening with botanical lift and gentle sweetness. This one works a treat in a wine glass splashed with prosecco and a dash of citrus shrub. HARRIET LEIGH, ARCHIE ROSE DISTILLERY, SYDNEY: RINQUINQUIN A LA PECHE, $45  An unusual peach liqueur, which Leigh says is best with a touch of gin, some lemon juice and a few fingers of soda water. The gentle sour-sweetness marries brilliantly with summery days. Track some down and get spritzing. OLIVIA EVANS, PAPER DAISY, CABARITA, NSW: BROOKIE’S SLOW GIN, $65  Evans explains that this ‘slow’ gin uses Davidson plum instead of sloe berries, honouring local ingredients. It’s tart but gently sweet, and is ideal with…

FOR MY FIRST recipe for delicious. , I’m looking to my Singaporean heritage. Not only is it one of the country’s national dishes – you’ll find it in every hawker centre and seafood restaurant around the city – more importantly, it is also my wife Rabicca’s favourite meal. I’m talking about chilli crab, which is most commonly made using mud crab. The secret to achieving amazing results is to choose good-quality crab meat. And then there’s the sauce… The crab is cooked in a chilli paste until the meat is succulent and tender. That sweet, spicy and tangy covering will hook you from your first bite. A great way to savour the sauce is with a serve of mantou , a light and fluffy Chinese steamed bun. Though in Singapore…

“WITH SEAFOOD, AND ANY GOOD PRODUCE FOR THAT MATTER, YOU REALLY NEED TO KEEP IT SIMPLE AND AVOID THE TEMPTATION TO DO TOO MUCH.” GOOD FOOD NEEDN’T be complicated. It’s the underlying premise of everything Rick Stein puts on the plate, and the results are a sheer joy to eat. That belief has been the driving force behind his Australian restaurant, Rick Stein at Bannisters, in Mollymook for the past nine years, where he has celebrated best-in-class Aussie seafood. Now he’s doing the same a few hours north of Sydney at a new Port Stephens outpost of the same name. “The menu is driven by what quality produce we get access to on any given day,” says Stein. “Not only is Port Stephens beautiful, with all its amazing inlets, it’s…

MY EASY ‘BAGUETTE’ MAKES 1 LARGE OR 2 SMALL BAGUETTES “Technically speaking, this is not the traditional method for a French baguette, which requires a pre-fermented starter and several other stages. This is my simplified version for the home baker, and I can assure you the result is a very close cousin of the delectable French creation. No one has to know you skipped a few steps!” Begin this recipe at least 1 day ahead. Semolina and extra flour, for dusting Ice cubes and water ‘STRETCH AND FOLD’ DOUGH 1/2 tsp dried yeast 1 tsp barley or rice malt syrup, or honey 3 cups (450g) baker’s flour For the ‘stretch and fold’ dough, mix the yeast, syrup or honey and 300ml lukewarm water in a bowl and stand for 30…

NEGRONI PANNA COTTA SERVES 6 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 4 titanium-strength gelatine leaves 2 cups (500ml) pure (thin) cream 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 1 vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped 2 cups (500ml) milk 1/2 cup (125ml) gin Finely grated zest of1/2 orange NEGRONI GRANITA 2 tbs caster sugar 8 juniper berries, bruised 100ml Campari 2 tbs red (rosso) vermouth For the Negroni granita, place sugar, juniper berries and 4 cups (1L) water in a saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring regularly, until warm and sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and stir through Campari and vermouth. Pour into a 6 cup (1.5L) freezer-proof tray and freeze for 3 hours or until ice crystals form. Using a fork, scrape granita to break up crystals. Return to freezer,…

WHAT DO YOU GET when a first-time hotelier opens accommodation in one of Australia’s most-visited cities? With property developer Darren Rubenstein and his inaugural hotel, United Places, you get a concept that thinks outside the square – more specifically, outside the check-in desk. Instead of the reception area seasoned travellers are so used to, guests are greeted by a butler who will be as present or discreet as you wish. Doing away with a check-in desk is just one of Rubenstein’s efforts in breaking the hotel mould. “I wanted to create a home for the like-minded traveller,” he explains. A stone’s throw from the Royal Botanic Gardens in South Yarra, and with a lobby constructed to elicit the atmosphere of a Melbourne laneway, you certainly could be entering your own…

SAN DIEGO HAS COME a long way from fish tacos and cheap beer. The laid-back harbour town – formerly known for its US Navy base and not much else – is, these days, giving nearby Los Angeles a run for its money with its golden beaches, craft-beer culture, energetic dining scene and proximity to the Mexican border, just a short drive away. San Diego’s position on the edge of the US makes it a melting pot of cultures, and distinctive hubs have cropped up across the city as a new wave of creatives and entrepreneurs moves in. The revival of downtown Little Italy into a buzzing eat-street lined with smart restaurants, hipster cafes and design stores, along with the transformation of North Park into a craft beer (and beard oil)…

TOP TIPPLES Martinis, as they are my husband’s favourite and he is happy to man that station. I love an Aperol spritz pre-lunch, as it’s light, but in the evening my go-to pre-dinner drink is Champagne. SWEET OR SAVOURY After a meal I might serve a cheese plate, Valrhona dark chocolate, or even fruit on a hot day. Add some fresh gelato to make it more appealing. JUST DESSERTS I’m not a big sweet tooth, but I do love creme brulee. I have a tiramisu recipe from a cooking course in Florence at Villa San Michele. You can prepare it the day before and just pull it from the fridge. TO A TEA Mint tea is always a good idea. Add three to four mint tea bags to a teapot,…