Table of contents for October 2020 in Delicious UK

PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS As the season turns golden, bringing autumn flavours to match, there’s much to celebrate in our kitchens as we look towards the year’s end. It’s a time to reassess how we cook, embracing the hearty, the wholesome and glorious autumn produce such as apples, pears, squash and pumpkins, But did you know how many pumpkins get thrown away each year after being carved? See p12 to find out how much soup those discards would make if rescued from the rubbish heap. I enjoy a bit of creative carving, but we have waaaay better things for you to do with pumpkins this year – see p58 for inspiration. (That risotto! That pie!) This issue has lots to provoke thought, too. Do you ever stop to…

STAR EMAIL FROM: NICOLA The last 12 months have been particularly stressful for our family. Our critically ill son was hospitalised but he received amazing care and responded well to the medications and treatments. We were ahead of the game in thanking and praising the NHS! His results at the start of 2020 were good, so we booked a family break in Milan to celebrate and relax a little. Obviously, it was soon clear Milan wasn’t going to be visited. We know everyone has missed out on events, holidays, weddings and so many things and we’re acutely aware we have so much to be grateful for, but as our ‘holiday’ date approached I felt we still should do something... I borrowed Italian cookbooks from friends and raided my own, but…

ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES This has been the most contradictory year. It will be remembered as the one when we cherished our homes and yearned to get out of them, loved our families but sometimes couldn’t wait to escape from them, embraced technology and grew exhausted by the work-from-home tyranny it imposed. It’s the one where we dressed smartly from the waist up, in pyjamas from the waist down. We cut our own hair, did our own colour and just got on with it as best we could – all the working, the disinfecting and the home-schooling, plus the jigsaws, needlepoint and gardening we slotted into the space where our social lives used to be. For some, ‘as best we could’ involved nurturing kimchi and tending sourdough starters as though they…

Pan-fried fish with pea guacamole and smashed new potatoes SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN • 750g new potatoes • 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 100g feta cheese, crumbled • 1 tbsp sumac (see Easy Swaps) • 4 x 120g sustainable salmon or white fish fillets • Grated zest 1 lemon, reserving fruit for serving FOR THE PEA GUACAMOLE • 500g frozen peas • 4 tbsp half-fat crème fraîche (or full-fat if you prefer) • Juice and zest 1 lime • Handful fresh mint leaves, plus a few extra to garnish 1 Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ gas 7. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, then cook the potatoes for 10-12 minutes or until…

They have five books to their name, 500-plus YouTube videos and a Facebook page that attracts 26 million views a month. They’ve created plant-based versions of everything from foie gras to victoria sponge. With that kind of output, it’s hard to believe Ian Theasby and Henry Firth only cut out meat and dairy five years ago. “Ian was on a health kick and I was turned on by the climate change aspect, but we quickly started thinking about animal welfare, too,” explains Henry. “Eating more vegetables is only going to be a good thing,” says Ian. “It’s good for your health, and also the pressure that we put on our health service.” Henry believes the best thing we can do to reduce our environmental impact is change our eating habits.…

“Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, close bosom-friend of the maturing sun…”JOHN KEATS Spice-roasted pumpkin soup with macadamia nut dukkah SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN MAKE AHEAD Chill the soup and keep for 3-4 days in an airtight container. Or freeze in batches for up to 3 months. Defrost in the fridge overnight and reheat until piping hot. Store the dukkah in an airtight container for up to 3 days. • 1.2kg pumpkin, peeled and seeds removed, cut into large wedges • 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • ¼ tsp chilli flakes, plus extra to serve • ¼ tsp smoked paprika • ½ tsp ground cumin • ½ tsp ground coriander • 1 garlic bulb, separated into unpeeled cloves • 2…

RECIPE, STYLING AND PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN GREGORY-SMITH Spicy prawn tomato stew (zibdiyit gambari) SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN EASY SWAPS If you’re vegetarian/vegan, add roasted aubergine instead of the prawns. • 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1 green chilli, roughly chopped • Small bunch fresh dill, roughly chopped • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 red pepper, finely chopped • 4 ripe tomatoes, finely chopped • 1½ tsp ground cumin • ½ tsp ground allspice • 2 cardamom pods, bashed open with a rolling pin or the side of a knife • 2 tbsp tomato purée • 450g raw peeled king prawns • Juice ½ lemon • 15g toasted pine nuts • Brown rice to serve USEFUL TO HAVE • Pestle and mortar or…

RECIPES: VALLI LITTLE. PHOTOGRAPH: JEREMY SIMONS Salted toffee apples SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, PLUS 30 MIN SETTING MAKE AHEAD Keep the toffee apples in a cool place for up to 2 days, covered with baking paper. • 8 small red eating apples • 500g caster sugar • 2 tsp white wine vinegar • 50g unsalted butter • 1 tbsp golden syrup • 2 tbsp single cream • ½ tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 8 wooden skewers, chopsticks or cleaned twigs from the garden (pictured); baking tray lined with compostable baking paper USEFUL TO HAVE Digital probe/sugar thermometer 1 Wash the apples thoroughly and pat dry with kitchen paper. Pierce each apple through the core at the stem with a skewer or twig, then…

@stillkay_ justbetter dunked some crudités into August’s lemony white bean and garlic dip [p68]. “Found the perfect alternative to hummus.” Randi used her sourdough starter (called Bubbles) to make sourdough pizzas from the August issue [p92]. “I couldn’t figure out how to work this ‘wet’ dough into pizzas, but your article saved the day. I had to fight to get a picture before the pizzas were wolfed down.” Now her children are back at school, Jo used their cookie cutters to jazz up her beef and mushroom pies [Sep, p27] with “disco dancing divas – they tasted fantastic too”. Julia made Skye McAlpine’s easy Aphrodite’s roast chicken [Aug, p17]. “On a lazy Sunday, I wanted a chicken roast dinner but couldn’t muster the energy – this is the solution. I…

The herbal tea aisle looks more like a health and wellness centre than a section of the supermarket these days. The manufacturers would like us to think these drinks can do us good – a lot of good. With the global market for caffeine-free hot drinks predicted to be worth £3.3 billion by 2025, the world’s food and drink giants have joined the herbal tea charge. “There’s never a quantified dose on the packet. Herbal tea seems to get away with vague claims” Industry analysts report that new flavours with ‘mildly stimulating effects and medicinal properties’ are driving the trend. Blends of different herbs offering ‘multiple health benefits’ are the most sought after, followed by ginger, camomile and cinnamon. Infusions designed specifically with the wellbeing of women in mind are…

1GET SAUCY Melt vegan cheddar with plant-based milk for gooey cheesiness. Beat plain flour into oat cream, then add almond milk and heat to get a speedy white sauce. 2 USE TOFU Coat firm tofu in cornflour and shallow fry for crispy goodness; blend silken tofu into a thick cream for savoury and sweet recipes. 3 BOOST FLAVOUR Use ingredients such as miso paste, nutritional yeast, soy, maple syrup, molasses, smoked paprika, cinnamon, coffee or dark chocolate to add depth/umami flavour. 4 JACKFRUIT Drain tinned jackfruit, then toss with a spice rub and oven bake for a smoky ‘pulled-meat’ treat. 5 USE READY-MADE Jars of artichokes, roasted peppers and sun-dried tomatoes impart rich, slow-cooked flavour to ragùs and more.…

“Just the thought of roast chicken brings a smile to my face. My family loves it with all the trimmings in autumn and winter. Plain roast chicken is completely delicious, but try the version here: mix some butter with flavourings such as ginger, tarragon and lemon zest, spread it under the skin of the breast, then pop the chicken in the oven and wait for a feast.” “THE VERY WORDS ‘COMFORT FOOD’ are like a big warm hug for most of us. Cooking a superb meal is a way of expressing love and giving comfort and pleasure to family and friends. Comfort food should be easy to make, and I like dishes that can be put together reasonably quickly without stress or too many ingredients. And you don’t have to…

FABULOUS FOR FISH Bodega Norton Colección Chardonnay 2019, Mendoza, Argentina 13.5% (£8.99, Waitrose) A classic, creamy fish pie (p53) calls for a bold, ripe white. Although well balanced and fresh with a citrus zing, this chardonnay fits the bill. Good white for roast chicken, too. BUT IF YOU PREFER RED WITH YOUR SQUASH... The Best Fleurie 2018, Beaujolais, France 13% (£9.25, Morrisons) A soft, not heavy red is needed for the texture of savoury squash or pumpkin dishes – here’s a fine beaujolais that tastes of red berries but finishes smooth and dry. NICE WITH SPICE Finest Côtes de Gascogne 2019, France 11.5% (£6.50, Tesco) A light, fresh white that’s slightly floral with whistle-clean lemon and green apple flavours. Chill it for the dan dan noodles (p40; it’s suitable for…

Where does your mind take you when you think of Mauritius? I’ll bet doe-eyed honeymooners spring to mind, dripping in diamonds and designer clothes. It’s hardly surprising – the gleaming white beaches and crystal-clear waters surrounding this pinprick of an island in the Indian Ocean beckon to lovers from all over the globe. There are also, of course, roads lined with mangroves and mango trees, as well as palm trees waving to greet you in the welcome breeze that baffles the intense burn of the sun. “The smell was yeasty – like Marmite stirred with molasses” But just metres away from the beaches a more common crystal is cultivated: the island is awash with sugar. Vast, sweeping fields of cane dance in the wind, releasing the haunting scent of sugar…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE The recipe SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN, PLUS CHILLING MAKE AHEAD Start the recipe a day ahead of time or at least 7 hours before serving to allow time for the finished cake to set fully. It will keep well in an airtight container, stored somewhere cool. FOR THE JELLY LAYER • 135g pack orange jelly cubes • 250ml boiling water FOR THE SPONGE • 190g unsalted butter, softened, plus extra to grease • 190g caster sugar • 3 medium free-range eggs, beaten • 190g self-raising flour • Finely grated zest ½ orange plus 1 tbsp juice FOR THE TOPPING • 100g dark chocolate, at least 70%, roughly chopped • 100g milk chocolate,…

Bramble & bay baked camembert EASY SWAP Try substituting the camembert with British tunworth. You can find it at larger Waitrose stores or at British cheesemongers and delis, or order online from paxtonand whitfield.co.uk. Sausage & cider casserole with apples and sage EASY SWAPS This one-pot is a seasonal standby and a great way to use up apples. Ring the changes by swapping the sage for fresh rosemary or thyme, or replace the apples with pears or quince. Chicken supremes with wild mushrooms & tarragon sauce EASY SWAP Supremes are chicken breasts that still have the wing bone attached to them – swap for 12 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs and cook for 10 minutes longer. FIND MORE RECIPES ONLINE…

Our star email wins a seasonal M&S bouquet worth £20 from its online flower subscription service. With the M&S flower subscription service you can sign up to have seasonal bouquets delivered weekly, fortnightly or monthly. For more information visit flowersubscriptions.marksandspencer.com See what other delicious. fans are talking about at facebook.com/ deliciousmagazineuk Follow us at instagram. com/deliciousmag Follow us at twitter. com/deliciousmag Follow us on pinterest. co.uk/deliciousmaguk…

SCANDINAVIAN GREEN From celeriac schnitzel in winter to wild garlic pancakes in spring, Danish chef and prolific cookbook author Trine Hahnemann captures the magic of seasonal eating with ideas for getting more plants on your plate. Out 15 Oct; Quadrille £26 TOWPATH: RECIPES AND STORIES The al fresco Towpath Café on Hackney’s Regent’s Canal is an insiders’ favourite for its waterside ambience and wholesome, seasonal food. Get the vibe at home with Laura Jackson’s recipes and Lori De Mori’s atmospheric words. Chelsea Green Publishing £27 PARWANA Durkhanai Ayubi explores Afghanistan’s diverse cultural history and challenges received wisdom in this stunning book, tracing her family’s journey to their Adelaide-based Afghan restaurant, Parwana. Recipes are by her mother, Farida. Murdoch Books £20…

BEST BUY UNDER £10 This colourful vessel – more of a storage basket, really – is handmade by women in Bangladesh from tightly woven recycled saris and it’s beautiful, as well as being sturdy, with a thick jute base. Use for storage, for a plant or even as a small wastepaper basket. £9.99 from Oxfam stores and oxfam.org.uk Turned turn-ons Ever on the lookout for artisan-made curios, I spotted a mention of Cornish Woodsmith on Instagram @cornishwoodsmith, investigated and loved what I saw. Craftsman Dominic Pearce, keen to preserve traditional crafts, works with foraged and storm-damaged wood. His carved bowls are almost too good to use, but I will – and I’ll be buying more for gifts. Keep an eye on cornishwoodsmith.com for new creations. From £25 for a bowl;…

Quick tandoori kebabs SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN “Henry’s mum showed him how to make a tandoori mix many years ago. It’s all about good-quality yogurt and wonderful spices (and if you want a shortcut you can even buy ready-made tandoori spice). For this recipe, we’ve used our own spice mix and plant-based chick’n chunks to create a kebab-shop-style dish with a tangy mint raita. Get your grill hot, hot, HOT, to mirror the tandoor oven, and get ready for a marinated masterpiece of a fakeaway!” FOOD TEAM’S TIP Look for Alt Tender Chickenless pieces or This Isn’t Chicken Plant-based Sea-salt & Black Pepper Pieces, from Tesco, larger supermarkets and health food shops. • 500g plant-based ‘chicken’ chunks (see tip) • 2 limes, cut into wedges • 4 dairy-free…

HOT ON THE SHELVES NEW POSH CRISPS ALERT! Kettle claims its new Thai Sweet Chilli crisps are the best. Although I haven’t done a comparison, they taste pretty good to me: sweet and not too fiery with a touch of star anise. The best bit, though, is the crunch. Look out for other flavours in the new range such as Truffled Cheese & A Splash of English Sparkling Wine (left). Yum. £1.99 for 150g, in supermarkets now RAISE YOUR WEEKEND FRY-UP GAME Clonakilty in Cork, in the southwest of Ireland, is famous for its black pudding, but they also make a white version that’s more like pork sausage. We cut ours into chunky slices, then fried them, but you could bake them on a tray in a hot oven. My…

He’s the executive chef of Holborn Dining Room, a grand British brasserie in the heart of London. Calum created The Pie Room at the restaurant in 2018 – a kitchen and pie shop designed to reflect the rich history of savoury pastry in Britain across the centuries. He was awarded Hotel Chef of the Year 2019 at the prestigious Catey Awards, and Holborn Dining Room ranked among the top restaurants in the UK at the highly competitive National Restaurant Awards in 2019. If you haven’t tasted one of Calum’s pies, now’s the time……

Each time a new book from popular expert Oz Clarke comes along it provides a great source of wine inspiration (winespiration?). This is certainly the case with his latest, English Wine (Pavilion £16.99). England now has over 160 wineries and 750 commercial vineyards, creating around 10 million bottles a day; Oz calls it ‘the newest New World wine country’. Quality is certainly high, especially among the sparklers and still whites, and Oz writes about it all with his trademark enthusiasm and gusto. There’s a brief history and guide to styles, but the main part is a tour of the country’s regions and their top wineries, with the author’s recommended best buys. The writing sparkles and delights, much like a glass of south coast fizz.…

Rhubarb and ginger napolitaines (Mauritian sandwich biscuits) RECIPES: JOHN WHAITE. FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE WINFIELD. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE AND SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE “These little sandwich cookies are the Mauritian version of the much-adored jammy dodger. Crumbly-short biscuit encloses a sweet jam and is topped with an even sweeter duvet of icing. Traditionally, the biscuit dough is made using just butter and flour, but it’s a little difficult to work with – I’ve opted for an enriched version using sugar and egg yolk to help bind everything together.” MAKES ABOUT 16. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 8-12 MIN, PLUS CHILLING, COOLING AND SETTING MAKE AHEAD Make the dough up to a day ahead. The biscuits will keep for up to 2 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Flatten the dough…

Here I am in Khan Yunis, a city in the south of the Gaza Strip, one of the most closed-off parts of the world. I’ve come to see the extraordinary work the World Food Programme does here. Two million people live in an area of less than 400 square kilometres and the charity feeds 270,000 of them every day. Around 80 per cent of the families the charity assists receive vouchers they can exchange for food from around 200 shops across Gaza. The remainder receive parcels of the basics: wheat flour, lentils, chickpeas, vegetable oil and salt. Laila and her family are among the beneficiaries of the charity, and we’re eating a typical Palestinian meal that’s cheap, nutritious and packed with flavour. Unlike most communities I’ve come across in this…